1 O, >s , in 5 ////.f J\ DESCRIPTIO O F T H E SCOTLAND. CONTAINING A Full Account of their Situation, Extent, Soils, Produ^, Harbours, Bays, Tides, Anchorlng-Places, and Fifheiies. The Antient and Modern Government, Religion and Cuftoms of the Inhabitants ; particiihirly of their Druidsj Heathen Temples, Monafteries, Churches, Ciiappels, Antiquities, Monumer.ts, Forts, Caves, and other Curiofities of Art and Nature : Of their Admi- rable and Expeditious Way of Curing moft Difeafes by Simples of their own Produd. A Particular Account of the Second Sight, or Faculty of forefeeing things to come, by way of Vifion, fo common among them. A Brief Hint of Methods to improve Trade in that Country, both by Sea and Land. With a New MAP of the Whole, defcribing the Harbours, An- choring-Places, ai\d dani^erous Rocks, for the benefit of Sailors. To which is added, A Brief Defcription of the Ifles of Orkney and Schetland, By M. MARTIN, Gent. The Second Edition, very much Correded. LONDON^ Printed for A. B E L L at the Crofs-Keys and Bible in Cofnhlll ; T. Va R N A M and J. O 3 B O R N in Lomhard-ftreet ; W. Taylor at the Ship, and J. B a K E R and T. VVa r N E R at the Black Boy in Paternofier-Kow. M. DCC. XYI. (iii) To His Royal Highnefs Prince GEORGE of Denmark, Lord High Admiral of Eng- land and Ireland^ and of all Her Majefty's Plantations, and Generaliflimo of all Her Majefty's Forces, &^c. May it pleafe Your Royal Highnefs, AMONGST the Numerous Croud of Congratulating Jddrejfers^ the Iflan^ ders defcnbed in the following Sheets frefume to approach Tour (]^yal Terfon : They can noiPj without fujpicion of Infidelity to the a 2 Qiieen iv Dedication. Qiieen of England, pay their Duty to a Danifh ^rincey to whofc Trcdecejfors all of them formerly belonged, THEY can boaji that they are honoured with the Sepulchres of eight IQngs of Nor- way, ii^ho at this day^ with forty eight I\ings of Scotland, and four of Ireland, lie en^ tomhW in the Ifland of Jona 3 a Tlace fanid then for fame peculiar SanBity, THET pre/ume that it is owing to their great diftance fro7n the Imperial Seaty rather than their want of Kati^e Worth, that their Iflands have been fo little regarded 5 tphich by J??ipro'Vement might render a confiderable Ac" ceffion of Strength and ^ches to the Crown^ as appears by a Scheme annexed to the foU lowing Treatife. They ha^e fufferd hitherto under the want of a powerful and affeBionate patron 5 ^roVidence feems to haVe given them a Natural Claim to Your Royal Highnefs : And tho it be almofl Trefumption for fo ftnful a Nation to hope for fo great a &effingy they do humbly join their prayers to God, that . the Dedication. v the An Account of the Bays and Harbours, Fifh; Gallan Whale dejlroys three Men ; young Whales how kilPd, they are nourifhing Food. ^^ t Whales caU^d Sea- Pork, the larger more loofening ; various kind of Shell-fflj, how they corrupt the Atr, and the time ; Coral ; Trouts and Eels, their Bait. 6 , The Cuflom of croffing B?iVV2iS-Rtver, by a Mak^ and not a Female, the firfl Day of May ; Springs and Fountains, their Qualities; a fuperftitiom Ex- periment about the Water, n Caves, Natural and Artificial Forts ^ their Form • i:hmM'Stone. g A Heathen Temple^ its Figure, 8cc. 0 Fore/l, Deer and Cattle, how fed in time of a Storm ; old Roots of Trees, 10 A xvi The Contents. JBaJb of Wood ; State of Health, anoiConflU tution of the Inhabitants ; their DifeafeSy various Cures. II, 12 A V refer natural Birth, Ingenuity of the Na- tives, Love of Mujicky their Exerctfes, Fatigue : Inferior Jfles, their Defcription ; a ft one Djke lately dtfcover^'d in the Sea. i ^, 14, i 5 Flannan-//?^/, their Frodu5l -, fuperjiitious CuJ- tom of failing, fowling, 8cc. ufed by the Inhabi- tants. 16, 17, 18 Pigmies or Lusbird. The Ifle Rona, its Ex- tent, Producl, Inhabitants, their Devotions^ Way of Livings Cufloms. Mr. Morifon'j Reception, Homage ; a Prefent given him and his Man ; he is feen aper the manner of the Second Sight. The Inhabitants how they all periflid. Colk a rare Fowl', anew Colony, &:c. 19 -25 Siant-Zy'/t? ; Eagles, their Policy ; Blue Stone ; Eoropy-Pw;?/'. The IJles above make two Parijhes ; Churches, their Names anA Number. 26, 27 Jntient Natives fay their Pater-Nofter at firjf view of A Church : Sacrifice offered to a Sea-God, and how. 28 Inhabitants, their Religion ; an Experiment of Holy Water, Fefiivals ; Stornvay Village, Pro- prietor, f 29, 50 Harries, Extent, Soil, Air how qudiffd ; Har- bours, freflj Lakes, Springs, their variom Qualities ; Caves, Forts, Stones on end. ji -^4 Number of Deer, &:c. Mertrick, its Fur, ^c. Two forts of Eagles. 3^3^ The Contents. xvii A Viper J Rats how dejlrofd^ a jlo'ne Circle in the Sea^ 'UAtiom Shells, OsCx^ix how ufed, Mo- luce A Beans, Amulets, Amber greefe. 37? ^8 Hearing lofi how reflGr''d ; Blindnefs in Sheep how reftor''d ; a Foal with cloven Feet ; Carrot-Seed inflead of Hops, 39, 40 A jingular Cure for a Cold-, a Worm how taken out of one's Cheek ; Allium, how juccefsjul againfl the Stone ; JLunar Stone, 41 A Man loji his Sight at ths Moon'^s Change ; great Frodu6i of Barley ; Sea-ware enriches the Ground ; a Subjlance like Slake grows in the ground. 42, 4^ Several Irregularities m the Tides • two Ravens ; Stones ere5fed, 44 —47 Pabbay-///?, Tokens of Wood gain'd by the Sea ; a Fat- Pudding calms the Sea, and attncls the Whales ; Sheep with big Horns, 48 Two Chappels ; a Tradition there proves falfe ; a fecret Sign among the Inhabitants of Taranfay ; big Seals in Gasker-7/Z? ; a P^ir of Seals, and Hammer dug out of a Grave in the Sands ; a Vein of Adamant in Quedam-//^(?, no Mice can live in it. 49, 50 Hermetra-//7i^ hath the Foundation of a Maga- ' zine, ufed when the Fijhery %vas there ; the rocky Channel between the Iflu of Vift and Harries navi- gable ; Fejli'vals ■ Cavalcade. 5 ^ ? 5 2 The Ifle North- Vift, its Figure, Soil, great Produce, Corn, two Ploughs, Bajs, four hundred Sail loaded with Hrririg in ''em \ a Magazine- Houj'e for the great Fijhery, Shell-fijh. 53' S^? 5 5 b Mickrel xviii The Contents. Mackrsl run afhore with Spring-Tides, a»d hovf they are freferv'd ; a ft range way of thick ning Cloth ; a vaft number of frejh Lakes, they abound mth Eels and Trouts, 56, 57 Cod, Lir'g^ Mackrel^ &:c. Fijb caught in Lakes ; a marled Salmon defcrib'^d ; Shell-Ftjh ; antient Forts, Cairns of Stone. 58 Falfe Centinels, fever al Stones on end ; a Stone on end, to which MalefaBors were tfd at Dtvifie Service ; the IVater-Crofs. 59 Several forts of Fewel ; Cheefe falted with Jfhes of Bar ley-fir aw ; an earthen Pitcher full of Bones ; the Policy of Ravens ^ &c. Seals how taken with Nets ; the yearly Attack on Seals in CQ]x{m\\'Rock ; Seals, their Naturality, &c. 61,62,63 Seals how eat^ how preferv'^d, how ufed againfi Diarrhea and Dylenteria ; Seals ufed againfi the Chin-cough, tts way of leaping, the Skin how ufed, H^ms made of Seals ; a Difpute whether a Seal be Fipj or Fleflj. ^4> ^ 5 Helsker-R(?f^i. 66 The Jjle Borera ; a Mare brings forth a Foal in her fecond T^ar ; fine Dtdfe^ Monks Field, Grave- fiones\ Tradition of Monks Poflure in time of Prayer. 6^ ■ Lingay-//?^ its Produce, it has been efleenPd fa- cred ; Beef falted in the Cows Hide • -Cows fatsed bj Sea-ware. 69 Oeerfeed on Sea-ware ; Eagle how it fifbes ; Fowl of Sea and Land ; black Eagle defiroys Lamb, Deer, aK'd Fawn J a Vow at the eating of a. Swan \ the Colk defcrib^d ', the Gowlin prognoflicates fair fVea- thtr. 70. 71 The The Concents. xlx The Gotv/m^s Notes pUfd on the Pipe \ the Rain-Gee fe for et ill Rain ; the Bi/bop-Fowl cures the Sciatic A ; the Bird Goylir foretells a Storm. -72 The Bird Screachanattin^ its JfeBion to its Mate. 0(?fervation of Eggs. Wild-Geefe. 7 j Barren Fowl. Jir, iff Properties. Snow, its time. Obfer vat ions of Froft and Ram. Obfer na- tion of the 'North'Eafl Winds. Difeafes, Cares. r 74,75 J Native calPd the Rain- Almanack. A Houje in which a Cock doth not crow from September till March. Longevity of the Natives^ their Charity, An Inn a great Rarity. Cuflom of asking Grain^ Cows, &c. gratis. 7^)77>7S The Anntverfary Cavalcade. A Cuflom toltra- ted the night before the Cavalcade. How they run for a Prize ; Bridles, Whips how made. Mutual Prefents. Proprietor, Religion. 78,79,80 Benbecula-//Z?, a Harbour, Soil. A Vault having many fmall Bones in it, Opinion concerning them; Proprietor. A Laj-Capuchin, his Habit, Sec. 82,85 TheJpSouth'Yii}:, Soil, Corn, frejh Lakes^ old Forts ; Amber greefe found here. Froft kills Fifb. Inhabitants^ Diet, Habit. A Native 1^0 Tears old ; flone Kjiirns 5 Superfiition of the Natives, 84, 8^, 06 'EvKcd.-JJley Anchorage, Fifhings, the Ground cafls up Heath. A Caution to Travellers by Land, Vi^ pers of late difcover'*d. 87 Inhabitants, their Language, Drefs, Hofpitality, their Alliances mth Protejtants ; Churches, Bowing- b 2 flone'. XX The Contents. ftons ; a Buckle of Gold ; Proprietor, Cavalcade^ St. Michael'/ Cake, Manufcri^ts m the Irifh CharaBer and Language, 88, 89 The I/le of Barray, its Lengthy Situation^ Pro- duce, Corn. ibid. Plenty of Fi/h, fmalt Sh/ps from Orkney for Tifh ; a Harbour ; freckled Salmon, and how takerfy &^c. 90 Forts, Orchard, Tobacco growing there. Kifmal the HeretoPs Seat, a Tower, Magazine, ibid- The Officers, Cockman, Conjiable. The Proper^ ties of fever alWells. ■ Embrios of Cockles ; Chappel, St. BarrV Image, the Inhabitants pay religious Wor- Jbip to it ; Tradition concerning St. Barr. 91,92 The more Southern Jfles defcriPd^ their Produce of Fifi, Corn, &c. A Stone rubbed to their Breaftj andrvhy. 9^>94 Inhabitants their Hofpitdlityy a fingular way of lodging Strangers. 95 Jn unknown Root. The Ifie lAnmul. Fowl; Climber Gingick, his Hazard, Reward, 8cc. 96 Women and Men apply to Mackneil for a Match, and he recommends the Match. St. ChriftopherV Altar^ the Natives perform their Devotion at it. A Tenant"* s Misfortune fupply'^d. 97 The Proprietor'' s Care of his Tenants ; Obferva- titn of Sheep ; Anchorage, The Steward, his Per- quifttes, 98 Inferior Officers, their Perquifites, Religion ; St. Barr, his anniverfary Cavalcade ; a Priefl's Re- ception, and a Difpute with him concerning St. Barr. Proprietor, his Antiquity, his Vaffalage, Tribute, 8cc. 99, 100 Thi The Contents. xxi The antient and modern Cuftomsof the hhabi- tants of the IVejlern ijles of Scotland. loi — 1 23 Courts of Ju4icatorjj ojfe^five and defenfive LeagueSy the Formality of giving a Farm to a. Tenant, 124, 125 Church-Difcipline. A Form of Prajer ufed bj the 1 /landers at Sea^ 1 26 1 30 The Ifle of Skie, its Etpnology^ Situation^ Shire^ Diocefs^ South-Eaft Moon caufeth high Tide. 1^1 Mold, Earths variom, their ' Effe^s ; Marca- fttes, Jggat, Chrjfialj Marble, Ltmefione, Cor- nua Ammonis. 152, i^j Velumnities, Stone refembling Goats Horns, l^apis Herticus, its Qualities. 134 Corkir, Crotil, Talk, i^^ Harbours, Mountains. i^^—i^g The Mountain Quillin the Cdufe of Rain', Soil very good, from fever al Inflances. 1 ? 9 Digging yields a better Increafe than ploughing ; Springs and Fountains, their Qualities. Some are under a Foiv of coming to Lochfiant Well ; an Of- fering is left on the Stones above the Well. 1 40 The Wood near the Well efleemed f acred ; a Trout carefully preferv'^d. Thirty Rivers afford Salmon; Pearl, 141 Prognoflick of Rain ; Bait and Seafonfor angling Trout ; a frejb Lake, .iffords Pearl ; this Jfle an- tiently covn'^d witlf Wood, fame Coppices. 142 Herring in feveral Bays, all kind of Fijh follow them ; all Fijh have a Leader, J firange Obferva- tion of Herring ; Herring prefer v^d without Salt. All Fifh abound on this Coafi ; the Seafon for fifh- ing; feveral forts of Bait. 14^, 144 b I The xxii The Contents. The Bays^ &c. aford various Shell-ffh ', great plenty of Oyflers. Nurfes Milk hotv to increafe. 'Jaundice occafiorPd by eating the Patella ; Obferva- tions of the Patella. 145, 146 Of the Balamos, Periwinkle^ Cockles, &c. Ob- fervation of Fijb. 147 Sea Plants, their Qualities ; Sleef to procure ; Megrim how cured. SLMe its Qualities. 148 Dulfe, its Properties \ of the Alga Marina. 149 White and red Coral, their Fffetis ; a Cave pe- trifies Water. 150 Several Caves,. Cairns^ Stones fet on end ; the Giant Fin-Mac-Cowl. 1^1,152 Danifh Forts ferve as Beacons, Names of FortSy Houfes, Druids Houfes^ Coal lately founds Cattle, A Cow how impos'^d upon by the Skin of her dead Calf, and how pacify d. Cows how deter"* d from any place. Cows dijtinguifh the Tides without fight: of the Sea. Cows how they pre/age their Mafler'^s Death. A Native being kilfd, his Cows gave Blood injiead of Milk about that very time. 155, 156 A monflrous Calf; a Cow brought forth five Calves all at once. A Calf with double Feet ; Calves havi?ig the Ear flit. Land and fVater- Fowly the difference betwixt good and bad Cormo- rants, their Broth refiores Milk in Nurfes, they fore- . tell tht^ Winds. Obfervation of the Oil of Land and Sea-Fawl, and of the St. Kilda Fowl. Sea-Pje prefages fair Weather. 157,158 Amp hi-' The Contents. xxiii AmphihU ; Ohfervation of Otters ; 'variot^ Ser- pents, how they kill ; Cures for the biting of Ser- fents. 159,160 Tm fort of Wexfels, and, their Efeas. The PeninfuU Oronfay excels in F^flurage. 161,162 The //Z? Ralay ; a white :^ubjlance from fetriffd Water, proves good Ltme. A St one- Quarry. A Lawobferv'd tn jijhtK'g. *^j Forts, Proprietor. Pyramids ere6led for every deceas''d Lad/. 164 Heftick Stone reddiJJj. Shoals of Herrif?g. 1 6 5 The I/it; ^hdda. frequented by a monjlrom Whale, A fuperjiitiotts Cufiom for procuring a fair Wind. 166 A Stone much regarded by the Natives. The Monk Ogorgon. The four ufed by Birds and Men rt?/yW Table- Fort. 167, 168 Scurvy-grafs^ its Size, Quality. 169 A fmgular kind of Duife. i he South of Skie earlier in Grafs, Cattle, UC» than the North p..rt. Air, QnAXm-MountMn calPd an Almanack, Se- veral Obfervations of Winds, 171, 172 A Prefage of fair Weather, Tides, Moon its Influence. 17^,174 The Difeafes known ani not known in the Jfle Skie. The Cures ufed by the Inhabitants. 175, The Alga Marina ufeful in planting. Several Cures for Difeafes. 178,179 .Land-Plants, their Qualities. 180, 18 i, 182 b 4 Cure xxiv The Contents. Cf4re for Cough, or Hoarfenefs ; HeBick-fione. Water-gruel hew us^d. 18 J ui Smithes Cure for the Faifitnefs of the Spirits, 184 Vuheraries ; Purges ; a Tumor to ripen ; Syroms to take away ; BUndnefs how cured. Jfhes of Sea- ware preferve Cheefe. 485, t 86 Swelfd Feet \ Glyfters how made. A Difficulty in eafing Nature at Sea^ how remoiPd, 187, 188 Sweat to procure ; the variom Effe6is of Ffjhes on jet'eral ConjtitutiGits. 189, 190 A Nat I've hath a Faculty of ereciing his Ears. A flrange Worm in fome People. iV2 Teaft how preferv'^d many Tears, ibid. Hemlock its Effecfs ; many Worms how deftrofd. 19? The Inhabitants Complexion, Education, great Age, Beds ; a larger Dofe of Phyfick reo[uiid here than in the South. 194, 19^, t^^ They are eafily cured ; an Empirick without Let- ters or Education/, his Su:cefs. 197, 198 The Natives fag.iciom^ mechanical, Lovers of Mnfick. 199 Gtnim for Poetry ; Difadvantage and Ad'van- tage in the warjt of Ccnverfe. 200, Diet, Men eat more than Women ; Oon, a Difl? made oj Milk or IVhey. 201, 202, 205 Graddan, a way of dr effing Corn ; two yearly Fairs ; Cattle hoiv fwimnPd over the Ferries. 204 208 Tht J (landers Jffccfion to their Chief. 209 Their way tural Fort, a Harhur, a large Cave^ a Well re^u- ted medicinal, the Effe5f it hath on a Stranger that lies at it in the night-time. The Natives make a Round about a Heap of Stone, A Heap of Stone confecrated to the Virgin Mary. A Well confecra- (ed by a Fopifh Priefl^ much efleem'd by the Inhabit tants.^ The Ceremony at the Confecration. 276,277 St, Catherine'/ Anniverfary ; the Inhabitants well proportion'*d, Language, Habit, Religion, St. Donnan'i Church and Anniverfary. A Sepul- chral Vrn, a Paffage under ground. Proteflants denfd accefs to the Burials in this Jfle. 278, 279 St. Kilda or Hirta, Etymology of the NAvne, its DiflatKe, in a Dutch Map it is cafPd Kiider ; its Length, Fountains, Cattle low of Stature, Sheep have big Horns. 2 So The Fort cf the VoKcii. 281 A barren Tribe of Solan Geefe ; a Pudding made of their Fat, and its Effecl. 282 Solan Goo fe- Egg pectoral, their Nefts how made; A red Coat, Sun-dial, Arrow, and Molucca- iif4>^j found in one of their Nefts. The Fowl c all' d Fulmar, its Size, it prognofticates the Wefl Wtnd^ it feeds on live Whale, eats Sorrel, it fpouts out pure Oil at its' Bill, Properties of this Oil, Number of the Inhabitants, Language, Habit., they are all not fiib]e[i to many Difeafes ; the Men. very ftrong. Strangers The Contents. xxix Strangers infeci the Natives with a Cough. 28 j, 284 Diet of the Natives, it caufes a Lefrofy, They have A Genius for Foefy ; thej efcape narrowly by climbing ; the ingeniiity of one among them. 285 A fignifcative Sign^ underjiood at a difiance by all the Women, The Women labour the Ground one Tear, 286, 287 They fivear decifive Oaths by the Crucifix^ and it is of Brafs. The Jmfoflor his Deceit^ how he was taken out of the Jfle, his Qonfeffion and Repentance, &€. 288 St. Kilda-M4/2'i Notion of the City of Glafgow, and of every ObjeB he faw in it. Proprietor, 6tew^ ard, VroduB, 289, 290 Steward"^ s Deputy, Omer a-nd Cubit, no Silver or Gold ujed here, they fight for Property, they live contentedly, nice in Property. 291 Stout Rowers, no Compafs, Pot- Penny, Fire- Penny, the Fire-Penny lofl by the Difcovery of Chryftal. 292 They excel in climbing. Two Ropes belonging to the Commonwealth. Great Pur chafe of Fowl; Eggs, two thoufand caught in a dafs time ; Gins wherein Fowl are caught. One of the Natives efc apes narrowly. They penfh in climbing. Lamen- tation-Songs, 2^g^, 294 Rock' Fowl how a Prefent ; Horfes, Fewel, Laval- cade, fine Hawks. One of the lnhabtta?Hs travels to Glafgow, his fi range Idea of every OhjeB there. 295 A Child taken away by an Eagle, and preferv'^d. 299 An XXX The Contents. Jft Account of the Second Sight, or Faculty of forefeeing things to come^ by way of Vifion ; feve- ral In fiances of it narrated. joo A Scheme of Trade ^ particularly of Fijhing, ^^6 The Language of the Inhabitants^ and their Re- motenefs, no Ohflacle to this Deftgn, ibid. They are capable of acquiring all Arts ; ma?jy go abroad for want of Employment. ibid. The Ground capable to maintain double the Num- ber of the Inhabitants ; their Cattle die in the Spring by ftarving. The Soil richer than in Jeveral other farts. ibid. The want of Skill in Agriculture a great lofs. Many Families hoi^ eaftly maintained. The IJles are proper for a folitary Life, and living at a very eafy rate, 538 The Ifles are healthful. A Tradition of Gold and Silver Mines. A Lead-Mine in the Ifle of" Ila. The Situation of the Jfles advantageous for Trade. Two Attempts made by Kjng Charles I. and Kjng Charles \\. to advance the Fishery of the Wejlern Jfles. ' 3 40 The Dutch Fifhery calPd a Golden Mine. The Herrings come to the Coaft of the Jfles in May and June ; they continue in fome parts till January : all other^ Fijh follow the FJerring. 549 Orkney -T/Z?/, their Situation, Origin^ Longi- tude^ Air. , 350 More Rain than Snow in Winter ; Sea- Air dif- folves Snow \ the Tides alter their Courfe ; Number of the Jfles. The main Land, Kirkwal Town, the J\jng and BiJJjop^s Palace. 551 St. The Contents. xxxi St. Magnus V Church ; the Town erected by the Danes. 352 Scripture-Stories fainted ; a lofty Infcription ; Harbours. The leffer JJles defcnb^d. The dange- rom Whirlpools in time of a Calm, j 54 •Orkney-7/?i?/ fruitful, fever al Mines', no Trees here. A Scuth-Eajl Moon caufeth high Tide. Fin- land .Men and their Boat. A medicinal Snail, Plenty of Shell-fjb. No venomous Creature in thefe Ifles. 556 Herring-ffhing neglected ; Whales^ Amphibia^ variom VroduBs ; ¥owl^ Cleck-Geefe. ^5-7 Pifl:s the antient Inhabitants', they are difpof- fefs'*d by K^. Kenneth the Second. Magnus KJng of Norway, by means of Donald Bane, poffeffes the Ifles. 358 Orkney a Title of Honour ^ the Queen Proprie- tor. 359 Orkney a Stewartry, Udal Right^ different Mea- fureSy antient State of the Church. 360 363 Antient Monuments andCuriojities. 364 ^66 Superfiition of the Inhabitants, their Longevity, 567, j68 A DESCRIPTION O F T H E laeftetrn^fliatttjs O F SCOTLAND. THE Ifland of Lervis is fo call'd from Leog, which in the Irifh Language fignifies Heater, lying on the Surface of the Ground ; which is very pro- per to this Ifland, becaufe of the great num- ber of frefh-water Lakes that abound in k. The Ifle of Lewis is by all Strangers and fea- faring Men accounted the outmoft Tra£t of Iflands lying to the Northweft of Scotland, It is divided by feveral narrow Channels, and diftinguifh'd by feveral Proprietors as well as by feveral Names : by the Iflanders it is com- monly call'd, The Long Ipnd ; being from South to North loo Miles in length, and from Eaft to Weft from j to 14 in breadth. It lies in the Shire of Rofs^ and made part of the Diocefs of the Ifles. A THE 2 ^Description of tie THE Ifle of L^n'/V, properly and fl:ri8:ly fo caird, is ^6 Miles in length; viz. from the North-point o( Bo)vlmg4jead to the South-point of Hufjmefs in Harries : and in fome places it is I o, and in others 1 2 Miles in breadth. The Air is temperately cold and moift, and for a Corrective the Natives ufe a Dofe of Trefiarig or Vfquebaugh. This Ifland is for the moft part healthy, efpecially in the middle from South to North. It is arable on the Weft fide, for about fixteen Miles on the Coaft ; it is like- wife plain and arable in feveral places on the Eaft. The Soil is generally fandy, excepting the Heaths, which in fome places are black, and in others a fine red Clay ; as appears by the many VelTels made of it by their Women ; fome for boiling Meat, and others for pre- ferving their Ale, for which they are much better than Barrels of Wood. THIS Ifland was reputed very fruitful in Corn, until the late Years of Scarcity and bad Seafons. The Corn fown here is Barley, Oats and Rye ; and they have alfo Flax and Hemp. The beft Increafe is commonly from the Ground manured with Sea-ware: They fatten it alfo with Soot; but it is obferv'd that the Bread made of Corn growing in the Ground fofatten'd, occafions the Jaundice to thofe that eat it. They obferve likewife that Corn pro- duced in Ground which was never tilled be- fore. Wejiern I/lands of Scotland. J fore, occafions feveral Diforders in thofe who eat the Bread, or drink the Ale made of that Corn ; fuch as the Head-ach and Vomiting, THE Natives are very induftrious, and un- dergo a great Fatigue by digging the Ground with Spades, and in moft places they turn the Ground fo digged upfide down, and cover it with Sea-ware ; and in this manner there are about 500 People employed daily for fome months. This way of labouring is by them cd.\VdTmiy ', and certainly produces a greater Increafe*than digging or plowing otherwife. They have little Harrows with wooden Teeth in the firftand fecond Rows, which break the Ground ; and in the third Row they have rough Heath, which fmooths it. This light Harrow is drawn by a Man having a ftrong Rope of Horfe-hair acrofs his Breaft. THEIR plenty of Corn was fuch, as dif- pos'd the Natives to brew feveral forts of Li- quors, SLS common Vfquebau^h, another call'd Treftarig^ id eft, Jqua-vit£^ three times diihll'd, which is ftrong and hot ; a third fort is tour times diftilPd, and this by the Natives is calPd Vfquel>augh-haul, idefiyVfquei/augh^which at firft tafte affecls all the Members of the Body : two fpoonfuls of this laft Liquor is a fufficieat Dole ; and if any Man exceed this, it would prefently flop his Breath, and endanger his Life. The Trejlarrg and VfquebAugh4aul, are both made of Oats. K % THERE 4 ^Description o/f/je THERE are feveral convenient Bays and Harbours in this Ifland. Loch-Grace and Loch» tux lying Norweft, are not to be reckon'd fuch ; tho Veffels are forc'd in there fometimes by ftorm. Loch-Stornvay Ues on the Eaft fide in the middle of the Ifland, and is i8 Miles diredly South from the Northermoft Point of the fame. It is a Harbour well known by Seamen. There are feveral places for anchor- ing about half a League on the South of this Coafl:. About 7 miles Southward there is a good Harbour, call'd the Birkin Ijles : within the Bay call'd Loch-Colmkill^ 3 miles further South, lies Loch-Erifort, which hath an An- choring-place on the South and North : about 5 miles South lies Loch-f en-fort, having two vifible Rocks in the Entry ; the beft Harbour is on the South fide. ABOUT 24 miles South- weft lies Loch- Carlvajy a very capacious, tho unknown Har- bour, being never frequented by any Veffels : tho the Natives alTure me that it is in all re- fpe£ls a convenient Harbour for Ships of the firft rate. The beft Entrance looks North and North-weft, but there is another from the Weft. On the South fide of the Ifland Ber^ nera, there are fmall Iflands without the En- trance, which contribute much to the Security of the Harbour, by breaking the Winds and Seas that come from the great Ocean. Four miles Weftern I/lands of Scotland. 5 miles to the South on this Coaft, is Loch-Rogue^ which runs in among the Mountains. All the Coafts and Bays above-mention'd, do in fair Weather abound with Cod, Ling, Herring, and all other forts of Fifhes taken in the Weftern Iflands. COD and Ling are of a very large fize, and very plentiful near Loch-Carlvay ; but the Whales very much interrupt the Fifliing in this place. There is one fort of Whale re- markable for its Greatnefs, which the Fifher- men diftinguifh from all others by the Name of the GAlUn-Whiile ; becaufe they never fee it but at the Promontory of that Name. I was told by the Natives, that about 1 5 Years ago, this great Whale overturn'd a Fifhers-boat, and devour'd three of the Crew ; the fourth Man was fav'd by another Boat which happened to be near, and faw this Accident. There are many Whales of different fizes, that frequent the Herring-Bays on the Eaft fide : the Natives imploy many Boats together in purfuit of the Whales, chafing them up into the Bays, till they wound one of them mortally, and then it runs afhore; and they fay that all the reft commonly follow the track of its Blood, and run themfelves alfo on fhore in like manner, by which means many of them are kill'd. About five years ago there were fifty young Whales kill'd in this manner, and moft of them eaten by the common People, who by experience find A ^ them 6 J^ D£ S C R I P T I O N of tU them to be very nourifhing Food. This I have been afTur'd of by feveral Perfons, but par- ticularly by fome poor meagre People, who be- came plump and lufty by this Food in the fpace of a Week : they call it ^ea-Pork^ for fo it fig- nifies in their Language. The bigger Whales are more purgative than thefe lefler ones, but the latter are better for Nourifhment. THE Bays afford plenty of Shell-fifli, as Clams, Oyfters, Cockles, MufTels, Lympits, Wilks, Spout-fifh ; of which lall: there is fuch a prodigious quantity caft up out of the Sand of Loch-tfM, that their noifom Smell infers the Air, and makes it very unhealthful to the In- habitants, who are not able to confume them, bv eating or fatning their Ground with them : and this they fay happens moll commonly once in feven Years. THE Bays and Coafts of this Ifland afford great quantity of fmall Coral, not exceeding fix Inches in length, and about the bignefs of a Goofe's Quill. This abounds moil in Loch-Jea- fort, and there is Coraline likewife on this Coaft. THERE are a great many Frefh-water Lakes in this Ifland, which abound with Trouts and Eels. T he common Bait usM for catching them is Farthworms, but a handful of parboiFd MufTels thrown into the Water, attracts the Trouts Weft em Iflands of Scotland. 7 Trouts and Eels to the place : the fitteft time for catching them, is, when the Wind blows from the South- weft. There are feveral Rivers on each fide this Ifland which afford Salmons, as aifo black MulTels, in which many times Pearl is found. THE Natives in the Village B^r-z^/^ retain an antient Cuftom of fending a Man very early to crofs Barvas River, every lirft Day of May, to prevent any Females crofling it firft ; for that they fay would hinder the Salmon from coming into t!ie River all the year round : they pretend to have learn'd this from a foreign Sailor, who was fhipwreck'd upon that Coail a long time ago. This Obfervation they main- tain to be true from Experience. THERE are feveral Springs and Fountains of curious Effects ; fuch as that at Loch-Carlvaj, that never whitens Linen, which hath often been try'd by the Inhabitants. The Well at St. Cowfieri's Church never boils any kind of Meat, tho it be kepc on fire a whole day. St. Andren-^s Well in the Village Shadar is by the vulgar Natives made a Teft to know if a fick Perfon will die of the Diftemper he labours under. They fend one with a wooden Difh to bring fome of the Water to the Patient, and if the DiQi which is then laid foftly upon the Sur- face of the Water turn round Sun-ways, they conclude that the Patient will recover of that Diftemper ; but if other wife, that he will die. A 4 THERE 8 *// Description of the THERE are many Caves on the Coafl: of this Ifland, in which great numbers of Otters and Seals do lie ; there be alfo many Land and Sea-Fowls that build and hatch in them. The Cave in Loch-Grace hath feveral pieces of a hard Subftance in the bottom, which diftil from the top of it. There are feveral natural and artificial Forts in the Coaft of this Ifland, which are call'd Dun^ from the hi^ word Dmn^ which fignifies a Fort. The natural Forts here are Dun-owUy Dun-corAdily Dun-eifien. THE Caftle at Stornvay-WWdigQ was de- ftroy'd by the Englifh Garifon, kept there by Oliver Cromwell, Some few miles to the North of Br ago there is a Fort compos'd of large Stones ; it is of a round form, made taperwife towards the top, and is three ftories high : the Wall is double, and hath feveral Doors and Stairs, fo that one may go round within the Wall. There are fome Cairnes or Heaps of Stones gather'd together on Heaths, and fome of them at a great diftance from any Ground that affords Stones : fuch as Cain^rvarf near Mourmgh-Hi\]^ &c, Thefe artificial Forts are likewife built upon Heaths at a confiderable diftance alfo from ftony Ground. The Thrujhel Stone in the Parifh of Barvas is above 20 foot high, and almoft as much in breadth. There are three erecled Stones upon the North fide of Loch'Carlvajy about 1 2 foot high each. Se- veral Wejlern I/lands of Scotland. p veral other Stones are to be feen here in remote places, and Tome of them ftanding on one end. Some of the ignorant Vulgar fay, they were Men by Inchantment turn'd into Stones ; and others fay, they are Monuments of Perfons of Note kiird in Battel. THE moft remarkable Stones for Number, Bignefs, and Order, that fell under my Obfer- vation, were at the Village of CUjfermfs ] where there are 39 Stones fet up 6 or 7 foot high, and 2 foot in breadth each : they are plac'd in form of an Avenue, the breadth of which is 8 foot, and the diftance between each Stone fix ; and there is a Stone fet up in the Entrance of this Avenue : at the South end there is join'd to this Range of Stone a Ci'rcle of 1 2 Stones of equal diftance and height with the other 39. There is one fet up in the Center of this Circle, which is I ^ foot high, and fhap'd like the Rud- der of a Ship : without this Circle there are 4 Stones ftanding to the Weft, at the fame dif- tance with the Stones in the Circle ; and there are 4 Stones fet up in the fame manner at the South and Eaft fides. I enquir'd of the Inha- bitants what Tradition they had from their Anceftors concerning thefe Stones ; and they told me, it was a Place appointed for Worfhip in the time of Heathenifm, and that the Chief Druid or Prieft ftood near the big Stone in the center, from whence he addrefs'd himfelf to the People that furrounded him. UPON I o ^ D E s c R I p T I o N 0/ r/;^ UPON the fame Coafl: alfo there is a Circle of high Stones ftanding on one end, about a quarter of a mile's diftance from thofe above- mention'd. THE Shore in Eggmefs abounds with many little fmooth Stones prettily variegated with all forts of Colours ; they are of a round Form, which is probably occafion'd by the toiling of the Sea, 'which in thofe parts is very violent. THE Cattle prod uc'd here are Cows, Hor- fes, Sheep, Goats, Hogs. Thefe Cows are little, but very fruitful, and their Beef very fweetand tender. The Horfes are confiderably lefs here, than in the oppofite Continent, yet they plow and harrow as well as bigger Horfes, tho in the Spring-time they have nothing to feed upon but Sea-ware. There are abundance of Deer in the Chafe of Ofervml^ which is 1 5 miles in compafs, confiding in Mountains, and Valleys between them : this atfords-good Pafturage for the Deer, black Cattle, and Sheep. This Fo- refl, for fo they call it, is furrounded with the Sea, except about one mile upon the Weil: fide : the Deer are forc'd to feed on' Sea- ware, when the Snow and Froft continue long, having no "Wood to flielter in, and fo are expos'd to the Rigour of the Seafon. I SAW big Roots of Trees at the head of Loch'Erif^ort^ and there is about a hundred young Weftem IJlands of Scotland. 1 1 young Birch and Hazle Trees on the South- weft fide of Loch'Stornvaj, but there is no more Wood in the Ifland. There's great va- riety of Land and Sea-Fowls to be feen in this and the lelTer adjacent Iflands. THE Amfhihia. here are Seals and Otters; the former are eaten by the Vulgar, who find them to be as nourifhing as Beef and Mutton. THE Inhabitants of this Ifland are well proportion'd, free from any bodily Imperfec- tions, and of a good Stature : the Colour of their Hair is commonly a light-brown, or red, but few of them are black. They are a health- ful and ftrong^body'd People, feveral arrive to a great Age : Mr. Dmiel Mortfoft^ late Minifter of Barvas, one of my Acquaintance, died late- ly in his 86th Year. THEY are generally of a fanguine Confti- tution : this Place hath not been troubled with Epidemical Difeafes, except the Small- Pox, which comes but feidom, and then it fweeps away many young People. The Chin-cough afflids Children too : the Fever, Diarrhea, Dy- fenteria, and the falling down of the Uvula, Fevers, Jaundice and Stitches, and the ordina- ry Coughs proceeding from Cold, are the Difeafes moft prevalent here. The common Cure us'd for removing Fevers and Pleurifies, is to let Blood plentifully. For curing the Diarrhea 12 ^Description o/f/?e Diarrhea and Dyfenteria, they take fmall quan- tities of the Kernel of the black Molocca Beans, caird by them Croffunk ; and this being ground into powder, and drunk in boil'd Milk, is by daily experience found to be very effeftual. They likewife ufe a little Dofe of Trefiarig Water with good fuccefs. When the Cough affefts them, they drink Brochm plentifully, which is Oat-meal and Water boil'd together ; to which they fometimes add Butter. This Drink us'd at going to bed, difpofeth one to fleep and fweat, and is very diuretick, if it hath no Salt in it. They ufe alfo the Roots of Nettles, and the Roots of Reeds boiPd in Wa- ter, and add Yeaft to it, which provokes it to ferment; and this they find alfo beneficial for the Cough. When the Uvuli falls down, they ordinarily cut it, in this manner : They take a long Qiiill, and putting a Horfe-hair double into it, make a noofe at the end of the Quill, and putting it about the lower end of the Uvula, they cut off from the Uvula all that's below the Hair with a pair of Sciffors ; and then the Patient fwallows a little Bread and Cheefe, which cures him. This Operation is not attended with the leaft Inconvenience, and cures the Diftemper fo that it never returns. Theycure green Wounds with Ointment made of Golden-rod, All-heal, and frefli Butter. The Jaundice they cure two ways : the firft is by laying the Patient on his face, and pre- tending to look upon his Back-bones, they pre- Wefiern Jflands of Scotland. i j prefently pour a Pail-full of cold Water on his bare Back ; and this proves fuccefsful. The fecond Cure they perform by taking the Tongs, and making them red-hot in the Fire ; then pulling off the Clothes from the Patient's Back, he who holds the Tongs gently touches the Pa- tient on the Vertebra upwards of the Back, which makes him furioufly run out of doors, ftill fuppofing the hot Iron is on his Back, till the Pain be abated, which happens very ipee- dily, and the Patient recovers foon after. Do- ndd'Chuan, in a Village near Brag/r, in the Parifh of Barvas, had by Accident cut his Toe at the Change of the Moon, and it bleeds a frelh Drop at every Change of the Moon ever fince. JNNJ, Daughter to Gfor^f, in the Village of Melhofi, in the Parifh of £;, having been with Child, and the ordinary time of her De- livery being expir'd, the Child made its Paf- fage by the Fundament for fome Years, com- ing away Bone after Bone. She liv'd feveral Years after this, but never had any more Chil- dren. Some of the Natives, both of the Ifland of Lewis and Harries^ who convers'd with her at the time when this extraordinary thing happen'd, gave me this Account. THE Natives are generally ingenious and quick of Apprehenfion ; they have a mechani- cal Genius, and feveral of both Sexes have a Gift 14 ^Description of the Gift of Poefy, and are able to form a Satire or Panegyrick ex tempore^ without the Afliftance of any ftronger Liquor than Water to raife their Fancy. They are great Lovers o^ Mufick ; and when I was there thqy gave an Account of eighteen Men who could play on the Violin precty^ well, without being taught : They are ftill very hofpitable, but the late Years of Scarcity brought them very low, and many of the poor People have died by Famine. The Inhabitants are very dextrous in the Exercifes of Swimming, Archery, Vaulting, or Leap- ing, and are very ftout and able Seamen ; they will tug at the Oar all day long upon Bread and Water, and a Snuflh of Tobacco, of the infcriow adjacent IJlands. WITHOUT the Mouth of Loch-Carl- vay lies the fmall Ifland Garve ; it is a high Rock, about half a Mile incompafs, and fit only for Pafturage. Not far from this lies the Ifland Berinfay^ which is a quarter of a Mile in compafs, naturally a flrong Fort, and formerly us'd as fuch, being almoft inaccefiible. THE Ifland FUdda, which is of fmall com- ftf-fs, lies between Bermfay and the main Land. Within Wejlern Iflands of Scotland. 1 5 Within thefe lies the Ifland call'd Bernem Mi- nor, two Miles in length, and fruitful in Corn and Grafs. Within this Ifland, in the middle of Loch-Carhay, Hes the Ifland Bernera Major, being four Miles in length, and as much in breadth : It is fruitful alio in Corn and Grafs, and hath four Villages. Alexander Mack-Lenan, who lives in Berber a Major, told me, that fome Years ago a very extraordinary Ebb hap- pen'd there, exceeding any that had been feen before or fince ; it happen'd about the Vernal Equinox, the Sea retifd fo far as to difcover a Stone-wall, the length of it being about 40 yards, and in fome parts about 5, 6, or 7 foot high, they fuppofe much more of it to be un- der Water : it lies oppofite to the Wefl:-fide of Lewis, to which it adjoins. He fays that it is regularly built, and without all doubt the ef- feS: of human Indufl:ry. The Natives had no Tradition about this piece of Work, fo that I can form no other Conje(3:ure about it, but that it has probably been ereOied for a Defence againfl: the Sea, or for the ufe of Fifhermen, but came in time to be overflow'd. Near to both Berneras lie the fmall Iflands of Kjdtfay, Cavay, Carvay, and Grenim. NEAR to the North- wefl: Promontory of Or/^'^J Bay, Q.2.VCdi' Galen-head, are the little Iflands of Pabbay, Shi rem, Fax ay, IVuya, the Great and LelTer. To the North-wefl: of GalUn-head, and within Ox Leagues of it, lie the i6 ^Descriptton of the the FUfinm-IJlands, which the Seamen call North-hunters ; they are but fmall Iflands, and fix in number, and maintain about feventy Sheep yearly. The Inhabitants of the adja- cent Lands of the Lewis^ having a right to thefe lOands, vifit them onCe every Summer, and there make a great purchafe of Fowls, Eggs, Down, Feathers, and Quills. When they go to Sea, they have their Boat well mann'd, and make towards the Iflands with an Eaft-Wind ; bat if before or at the Landing the Wind turn Wefteriy, they hoift up Sail, and fteer direft- ly home again. If any of their Crew is a Novice, and not vers'd in the Cuftoms of the place, he muft be infl:ru6led perfectly in all the Punctilio's obferv'd here before Landing ; and to prevent Inconveniences that they think may enfue upon the Tranfgreilion of the leaft Nicety obferv'd here, every Novice is always join'd with another, that can infl:ru£l him all the time of their Fowling : fo all the Boat's Crew are match'd in this manner. i\fter their Landing, they faft:en the Boat to the fides of a Rock, and then fix a wooden Ladder, by lay- ing a Stone at the foot of it, to prevent its falling into the Sea ; and when they are got up into the Ifland, all of them uncover their Heads, and make a turn Sun-ways round, thanking God for their Safety. The firfl: In- junction given after Landing, is not to eafe Na- ture in that place where the Boat lies, for tliat they reckon a Crime of the higheft nature, and Wefleni Ifands of Scotland. 77 and of dangerous confequence to all their Crew ; for they have a great regard to that very piece of the Rock upon which they firft fet their Feet, after efcaping the danger of the Ocean. THEbiggeftof thefeiaands is calPd 7/7^W- More\ it has the Ruins of a Chappel dedicated to St. FUnnan^ from whom the ifland derives its Name. When they are come within about 20 Paces of the Altar, they all ftrip themfelves of their upper Garments at once ; and their up- per Clothes being laid upon a Stone, which ftands there on purpofe for that ufe, all the Crew pray three times before they begin Fowl- ing : the iirfl: day they fay the firll Prayer, ad- vancing towards the Chappel upon their Knees; the fecond Prayer is faid as they go round the Chappel ; the third is faid hard by or at the Chappel : and this is their Morning-Service. Their Fefpers are perform'd with the like num- ber of Prayers. Another Rule is, That it is abfolutely unlawful to kill a Fowl with a Scone, for that they reckon a great Barbarity, and di- re£i:ly contrary to antient Cuftom. IT is alfo unlawful to kill a Fowl before they afcend by the Ladder. It is abfolutely unlawful to call the Ifland of St.Kjlda (^which lies thirty Leagues Southward) by its proper Iriftf Name H^r^, but only the high Country. They muft not fo much as once name the B Illands I 8 ^Description of the Iflands in which they are fowling, by tlie ordinary Name FUmmn^ but only the Coun- try. There are feveial other things that muft not be call'd by their common Names : e. g, Fisk, which in the Language of the Natives fignifies K^^^^r, they call B^/-;^ : a Rock, which in their Language is Creg, muft here be call'd Cruejy I. e. hard : Shore in their Language ex- prefs'd by CUddach, muft here be call'd Fah, i.e, a C^ve : Sour in their Language is ex- prefs'd Gort^ but muft here be call'd G^w, i.e. Sharf: Slippery, which is exprefs'd Bogy muft be call'd 6'fl/> : and feveral other things to this purpofe. They account it alfo unlaw- ful to kill a Fowl after Evening-Prayers. There is an antient Cuftom, by which the Crew is- oblig'd not to cajry home any Sheep-fuet, let them kill ever fo many Sheep in thefe Iflands. One of their principal Cuftoms is not to fteal or eat .any thing unknown to their Partner, elfe the Tranfgreffor (they fay) will certain- ly vomit it up ; which they reckon as a juft fudgment. When they have loaded their Boat fufticiently with Sheep, Fowls, Eggs,. Down, Filh, c^c they make the beft of their way homeward. It's obferved of the Sheep of thefe Iflands, that they are exceeding fet, aad have long Horns. I HAD this fuperftitious Account not only from feveral of the Natives of the Lems, but iikewife from two who had been in the FUfj^ nan Weficrn I/lands of Scotland. ip nm Iflands the preceding Year. I ask'd one of them if he pray'd at home as often, and as fervently as he did when in the tUnnm Iflands, and he plainly cOnfefs'd to me that he did not : adding further, that tliefe remote Iflands were places of inherent Sanftity ; and that there was none ever yet landed in them but found bimfelf more difpos'd to Devotion there, than any where elfe. The Ifland o^ P'tgmies^ or, as the Natives call it, The Iflx^d of Little Men, is but of fmall extent. There has been many fmall Bones dug out of the Ground here, re- fembling thofe of Human Kind more than any other. This gave ground to a Tradition which the Natives have of a very Low-ftatur'd People living once here, call'd Lusbirda^i^ i.e. Pigmies, THE Ifland Ro^a is reckon'd about 20 Leagues from the North-eafl: Point of Nefs in Lewis, and counted but a Mile in length, and about half a Mile in breadth : it hath a Hill in. the Wefl: part, and is only viflble from the Lewis in a fair Summers-day. I had an Ac- count of this little Ifland, and the Cufl:om of it from feveral Natives of Lewis, who had been upon the place ; but more particularly from Mr. Daniel Mortfon, Minifl:er of B.trvds, after his Return from Ronx Ifland, which then belong'd to him, as part of his Glebe, Upon my landing (fays he) the Natives receivM me very atFe<^ionately, and addrefs'd me with B 2 their 20 ^ D E S C R I P T I O N o/ fie their ufaal Salutation to a Stranger : Godfave jo», Pilgrim^ you are heartily welcome here ; for we have had repeated Apparitions of your Perfon among u^ (after the manner of the fecond Sight) and ive heartily congratulate your Arri- val in this our remote Country. One of the Natives would needs exprefs his high Efteem for my Perfon, by making a turn round about me Sun-ways, and at the fame time blefTing mc, and wifliing me all Happinefs; but I bid him let alone that* piece of Homage, telling him I was fenfible of his good Meaning to- wards me: but this poor Man was not a little difappointed, as were alfo his Neigh- bours ; for they doubted not but this antient Ceremony would have been very acceptable to me : and one of them told me, That this was a thing due to my Charader from them, as to their Chief and Patron, and they could not, nor 'would not fail to perform it. They conduced me to the little Village where they dwell, and in the way thither there were three In- clofures • and as I entred each of thefe, the Inhabitants feverally faluted me, taking me by the hand, and faying. Traveller^ you are welcome here. They went along with me to the Floufe that they had afljgn'd for my Lodg- ing; where there was a bundle of Straw laid on the Floor, for a Seat for me to fit upon. After a little time was fpent in general Dif- courfe, the Inhabitants retir'd to their re- fpcclive Dwelling-Houfes ; and in this Interval, they IVcflern IJlands of Scotland. 2 \ they kilPd each "Man a Sheep, being in all iive, anfwerable to the number of their Fami- lies. The Skins" of the Sheep were intire, and flay'd off fo from the Neck to the Tail, tliat they were in form like a Sack. Thefe Skins being flay'd off after this manner, were by the Inhabitants inllantly filPd with Barley-meal ; and this they gave me by way of a Prefent : one of their number a6led as Speaker for the reff, faying, Traveller^ we are very fenfihle of the Favour you have done us in coming jo far with a Defign to inftruci us in our way to Happinefs^ and at the fame time to venture your f If on the great Ocean ; ^ray be pleas'' d to accept of this fmall Pre- fenty which we humbly offer 04 an Expreffion of our fincere Love to you. This I accepted, tho in a very coarfe Drefs ; but it was given with fuch an Air of Hofpitality and Good-will, as de- ferv'd Thanks. They prefented my Man alfo with fome pecks of Meal, as being likewife a Traveller : the Boats-Crew having been m Rona before, were not reckoned Strangers, and therefore there was no Prefent given them, but their daily Maintenance. THERE is a Chappel here dedicated to St, Ronan, fencM with a Stone-Wall round it; and they take care to keep it neat and clean, and fweep it every day. There is an Altar in it, on which there lies a big Plank of Wood about ten Foot in length ; every Foot has a hole in it, and 'm every hole a Stone, to which Bj the 21 ^ DeS CRIPTIO N o/' t^e the Natives afcribe feveral Virtues : one of them is fingular, as they fay, for promoting fpeedy Delivery to a Woman in Travail. THEY repeat the Lord's Prayer, Creed, and Ten Commandments in the Chappel every Sunday horning. They have Cows, Sheep, Barley and Oats, and live a harmlefs Life, be- ing perfeftly ignorant of moft of thofe Vices that abound in the World. They know no- thing of Mony or Gold, having no occafion for either ; they neither fell nor buy, but only barter for fuch little things as they want : they covet no Wealth, being fully content and fatisfy'd with Food and Raiment ; tho at the fame time they are very precife in the matter of Property among themfelves : for none of them will by any means allow his Neighbour to fiOi within his Property ; and every one mull exaftly obferve not to make any in- croachment on his Neighbour. They have an agreeable and hofpitable Temper for all Stran- gers : they concern not themfelves about the reft of Mankind, except the Inhabitants in the North part of Lewis. 7 hey take their Sir- name from the Colour of the Sky, Rain-bow, and Clouds. There are only five Families in this fmall Kland, and every Tenant hath his Dwell ing-houfe, a Barn, a Houfe where their beft Effecl:s are preferv'd, a Houfe for their Cattle, and a Porch on each fide of the Door to keep off the Rain or Snow. Their Houfes are Wcjlcrn JJlands of Scotland. 25 are built with Stone, and thatched with Straw, which is kept down with Ropes of the lame, poisM with Stones. They wear the fame Ha- bit with thofe in Leivis, and fpeak only Ir/fh, When any of them comes to the Lewis, which is feldom, they are aftonifh'd to fee fo many People. They much admire Grey-hounds, and love to have them in their company. They are mightily pleas'd at the fight of Horfes ; and one of them obferving a Horfe to neigh, ask'd if that Horfe laugh'd at him. A Boy from Ro»a perceiving a Colt run towards him, was fo much frighted at it, that he jump'd into a Bufh of Nettles, where his whole Skin be- came full of Blifters. ANOTHER of the Natives of Ro;^a having had the opportunity of travelling as far as Cord, in the Shire of Rofs, which is the Seat of Sir Alexander Mac-kenzie, every thirfg he faw there was furprizing to him ; and when he heard the noife of thofe who walk'd in the Rooms above him, he prefently fell to the ground, thinking thereby to fave his Life, for he fuppos'd that the Houfe was coming down over his head. When Mr. Mortfon the Mmiller was in Rona, two of the Natives courted a Maid with intention to marry her; and being marry'd to one of them afterv/ards, the other was not a little difappointed, be- caufe there was no other Match for him in this Ifland. The Wmd blowing fair, Mr. Mo- B 4 rifon 24 ^Description of the rifon failed dire8:ly for Lervis ; but after three hours failing was forced back to Ro^a by a contrary Wind : and at his landing, the poor Man that had loft his Sweetheart was over- joy'd, and exprefs'd himfelf in thefe words ; I blefs God and Rom^ that you are return'd again, for I hope you will now make me hap- py, and give me a right to enjoy the Woman every other Year by turns, that fo we both may have Iffue by her. Mr. Morifon could not refrain from fmiling at this unexpected Requeft, chid the poor Man for his unreafonable De- mand, and defir'd him to have patience for a Year longer, and he would fend him a Wife from Lervis ; but this did not eafe the poor Man, who was tormented with the thoughts of dying without liTue. ANOTHER who wanted a Wife, and having got a Shilling from a Seaman that hap- pened to land there, went and gave this Shil- ling to Mr. Morifon, to purchafe him a Wife in the Lewts^ and fend her to him, for he was told that this Piece of Mony was a thing of ex- traordinary Value ; and his Defire was grati- fy\l the enfuing Year. ABOUT 14 Years ago a Swarm of Rats, but none knows how, came into Rona^ and in a fliort time eat up all the Corn in the Illand. In a few months after, fome Seamen landed there, who robbed the poor People of Weftern Jflands of Scotland. 25 of their Bull. Thefe Misfortunes, and tlie want of Supply from Lewis for the fpace of a Year, occafionM the Death of all that antient Race of People. The Steward of 6V. f(jlda being by a Storm driven in there, told me that he found a Woman with her Child on her Breaft, both lying dead at the fide of a Rock. Some years after, the Minifter (to whom the Ifland belongeth) fent a new Co- lony to this Ifland, with fuitable Supplies. The following Year a Boat was fent to them with fome more Supplies, and Orders to re- ceive the Rents ; but the Boat being loft, as it is fuppos'd, I can give no further account of this late Plantation. THE Inhabitants of this little Ifland fay, that the Cuckow is never feen or heard here, but after the Death of the Earl of Seaforih, or the Minifter. THE Rock Soulisker lieth four Leagues to the Eaft of Rona ; it is a quarter of a mile in Circumference, and abounds with great numbers of Sea Fowl, fuch as Solan Geefe, Guillamote, Coulter-Neb, Puffin, and feve- ral other forts. The Fowl called the Colk is found here : it is lefs than a Gooie, all covered with Down, and when it hatches it cafl:s its Feathers, which are of divers Colours ; it has a Tufft on its head refembling that" of a Peacock, and a Train longer than that of a Houfe- i6 ^ D E s c R I p T I o N 0/ r/?e Houfe-Cock, but the Hen has not fo much Ornament and Beauty. , THE Ifland 5/^«/, 01*, as the Natives call it, IJland'More, lies to the Eaft of Vfljinefs in Lewis^ about a League. There are three fmall Iflands here ; the two Southern Iflands are feparated only by Spring-tides, and are two miles in Circumference. Iflmd-More hath a Chappel in it dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and is fruitful in Corn and Grafs : the Ifland joining to it on the Weft is only for Paftu- rage. I faw a couple of Eagles here : the Na- tives told me, that thefe Eagles would never fuffer any of their kind to live there but them- felves, and that they drove away their young ones as foon as they were able to fly. And they told me likewife, that thofe Eagles are fo care- ful of the place of their abode, that they ne- ver yet killed any Sheep or Lamb in the Ifland, tho the Bones of Lambs, of Fawns, and Wild-Fowls, are frequently found in and about their Nefts ; fo that they make their Purchafe in the oppofite Iflands, the neareft of which is a League dillant. This Ifland is very ftrong and inacceflible, fave on one fide where the Afcent is narrow, and fomewhat re- fembling a Stair, but a great deal more high and fl:eep ; notwithftanding which, the Cows pafs and repafs by it fafely, tho one would think it uneafy for a Man to climb. About a Musket-fliot further North lies the biggeft of the Weft em Iflands of Scotland. 27 the Iflands call'd More, being two miles in Circumference : It is fruitful in Corn and Paf- turage, the Cows here are much fatter than any I faw in the Ifland of Lew^s. There is a blue Stone in the Surface of the Ground here, moift while it lies there, but when dry, it be- comes very hard ; it is capable of any Impref. fion, and I have feen a Sett of Table-Men made of this Stone, prettily carved with diffe- rent Figures. There is a Promontory in the North-end of the Ifland of Lewis, call'd Eoropy- Foint, which is fuppos'd to be the furtheft to North-wefl: of any part in Europe. THESE Iflands are divided intotw^oPa- rifhes, one call'd Barvas, and the other Ey or T; both which are Parfonages, and each of them having a Minifl:er. The Names of the Churches in Lep;ts Ifles, and the Sains to whom they were dedicated, are St. Columktl, in the Ifland of that Name ; St. Pharaer in Kjernefs, St. Lennan in Sternvay, St. Collurn in £j, St. Cutchou in Garbofi, St. Aula in Greafe^ St. Michael in Tollofta, St. Collmyi in Garteuy St. Ronan in Eorobie, St. Tho?na^ in Hahojl, St. Feter in Shanahofl, St. Clem e/t: in Dell, Holy- Crofs Church in Galan, St. Bri^it in Barove^ St. Peter in Shiadir, St. Mary in Barvas, St, ^ohn Baprifi in Bragar, St. Kjaran in Ltani- Shadir, St. Michael in Kjrvig, St. Macrel in Kjrkthofi, St. Dondan in Little Berr/eray, St. Mi- chael in the fame Ifland, St. Perer in Pabhay Ifland, 2 8 ^/Description of the Illand, St. Chrifl-opher's Chappel in Vge, and Stornvay Church : all thefe Churches and Chap- pels were, before the Reformation, Sanftua- ries ; and if a Man had committed Murder, he was then fecure and fafe when once within . their Precinds. THEY were in greater Veneration in thofe days than now : it was the conftant Practice of the Natives to kneel at firft fight of the Church, tho at a great diftance from 'em, and then they fa id their Pater-nofier, John Mortfon of Braotr told me, that when he was a Boy, and going to the Church of St. Mulvaj^ he obferved the Natives to kneel and repeat the Pater-nofter at four miles diftance from the Church. The In- habitants of this Illand had an antient Cuftom to facrifice to a Sea-God, call'd Shony^ at Hallow- tide, in the manner following : The Inhabi- tants round the Ifland came to the Church of St. Mulvay^ having each Man his Provifion along with him ; every Family furnifh'd a Peck of Malt, and this was brew'd into Ale : one of their number was pick'd out to wade into the Sea up to the middle, and carrying a Cup of Ale in his hand, ftanding ftill in that pofture, cry'd out with a loud Voice, faying, Shony, I give you this Cup of Ale, hoping that you'll be fo kind as to fend lu plenty of Sen-ware, for in- riching our Ground the enfuing 'Tear : and fo threw the Cup of Ale into the Sea. This was per- formed in the Night-time. At his Return to Land, Weflern Iflands of Scotland. 29 Land, they all went to Church, where there was a Candle burning upon the Altar ; and then ftanding filent for a little time, one of them gave a Signal, at which the Candle was put out, and immediately all of them went to the Fields, where they fell a drinkirg their Ale, and fpent the remainder of the Night in Dan- cing and Singing, &c. THE next Morning they all return'd ;'orr ^^ being well fatisfy'd that they had puucl. / obferv'd this Solemn Anniverlary, whi.:li t" jy believ'd to be a powerful means to procu-re a plentiful Crop. y[v. Daniel and Mv. J(er^f^eth Morifon^ Minifters in Lewts^ told me they fpent feveral Years, before they could periuade the vulgar Natives to abandon this ridiculous piece of Superftition ; which is quite abolifh'd for thefe 3 2 Years paft. THE Inhabitants are all Proteftants, ex- cept one Family, who are Roman Catholicks. I was told, that about 14 Years ago, three or four Filhermen, who then forfook the Prote- ftant Communion, and imbrac'd the Romifh Faith, having the opportunity of a Popifli Prieil: on the place, they apply'd themfelves to him for fome of the Holy Water ; it being ufual for the Priefts to fprinkle it into the Bays, as an infallible means to procure plenty .of Herring, as alfo to bring them into thofe Nets that are befprinkled with it. Thefe Fifhers according- ^O ^ De SCR IV T lOlSi of the ly having got the Water, poured it upon their Nets before they drop'd them into the Sea ; they likewife turn'd the infide of their Coats outwards, after which they fet their Nets in the Evening at the ufual hour. The Proteftant Fifhers, wlio us'd no other means than throw- ing their Nets into the Sea, at the fame time were unconcern'd ; but the Papifts being im- patient and full of expedation, got next Morn- ing betimes to draw their Nets, and being come to the place, they foon perceiv'd that all their Nets were loft ; but the Proteftants found their Nets fafe, and full of Herring : which was no fmall mortification to the Prieft and his Profe- iy tes, and expos'd them to the derifion of their Neighbours. THE Proteftant Natives obferve the Fefti- vals of Chr^fima-s, Good-Friday^ Eafler, and Mi' chaelmas : upon this laft they have an Anniver- fary Cavalcade, and then both Sexes ride on horfe-back. THERE is a Village call'd Storn-Bay, at the head of the Bay of that Name ; it confifts of about fixty Families : there are fome Houfes of Entertainment in it, asalfoa Church, and a School, in which Latin and Eagltfh are taught. The Steward of the Lewis hath his Refidence m this Village. The Lewis ^ which was poiTefs'd by Mack-Leod of Lewis for feveral Centuries, is, fince the Reign of King James the Sixth, be- come Wefiern IJlands of Scotland. ; i come the Property of the Earl of Seaforth^ who ft ill enjoys it. j. . j ^ ..-j^ni ..M ^ "• " '' ' '^L ' ix*-^ 7/Ieo/"HARRIES. THE H^mf^ being feparated from JLejw is 1 8 Miles, from the Hufljinefs on the Weft Ocean to Loch-Seafon in the Eaft ; from this bounding to the Point of Strond in the South of Harries, it is 24 Miles ; and in fome places 4, 5, and 6 Miles in breadth. The Soil is almoft the fame with that of Lewis, and it produces the fame forts of Corn, but a greater Increafe. THE Air is temperately cold, and the Na- tives endeavour to qualify it by taking a Dofe of Aquavits, or Brandy ; for they brew no fuch Liquors as Treflarig, or Vfquehaugh-hauL The Eailern Coaft of Harries is generally rocky and mountainous, cover'd with Grafs and Heath. The Weft fide is for the moft part arable on the Sea-Coaft; fome parts of the Hills on the Eaft fide are naked without Earth. The Soil being dry and fandy, is fruit- ful when manur'd with Sea-ware- The Grafs on the Weft fide is moft Clover and Dafy, which in the Summer yields a moft fragrant Smell. Next toH^och-Stafort, which for fome miles divides the Lewis 'from Harries, is the notable Harbour within the Ifland, by fea- faring ; 2 ^Description of the faring Men call'd GUfsy and by the Natives Scalpa : it is a mile and a half long from South to North, and a mile in breadth. There is an Entrance on the South and North ends of the Ifle, and feveral good Harbours in each, well known to the generality of Seamen. Within the Ifle is Loch-Tarhat, running 4 miles Weft ; it hath feveral fmall Ifles, and is fometimes frequented by Herring. Without the Loch there is plenty of Cod, Ling, and large Eels. ABOUT half a League further on the fame Coaft, lies Loch-Stoknefsy which is about a mile in. length : there is a frefh-water Lake at the Entrance of the Ifland, which affords Oyfters, and feveral forts of FiiL, the Sea having accefs to it at Spring-tides. ABOUT a League and a half farther South, is Loch-Fmisbay^ an excellent, tho unknown Harbour : the Land lies low, and hides it from the fight of the fea-faring Men, till they come very near the Coaft. iTiere are, befides this Harbour, many Creeks on this fide, for Barks and leiTer Boats. F R E S H- water Lakes abound in this Ifland, and are well ftor'd with Trout, Eels, and Sal- mon. Each Lake has a RivA' running from it to the Sea, from whence the Salmon comes about the beginning of May, and fooner if the Seafon be Wejlern Iflajids of Scotland. 3 3 be warm. The beft time for angling for Sal- mon and Trout, is when a warm South-weft Wind blows. They ufe Earth-worms com- monly for Bait, but Cockles attraO: the Salmon better than any other. THERE is variety of excellent Springs ifTuing from all the Mountains of this Ifland, but the Wells on the Plains near the Sea are not good. There is one remarkable Fountain lately difcover'd near M^irvag-hon^QS, on the Eaftern Coaft, and has a large Stone by it, which is fufficient to direct a Stranger to it. The Natives find by experience that it is very effectual for reftoring loft Appetite; all that drink of it become very foon hungry, though they have eat plentifully but an hour before : the truth of this was confirm'd to me by thofe that were perfe6lly well, and alfo by thofe that were infirm ; for it had the fame eftedl on both. THERE is a Well in the Heath, a mile to theEaft from the Village 5(?rx'^ ; the Natives fay that they find it efficacious againft Cho- licks, Stitches, and Gravel. THERE are feveral Caves in the Moun* tains, and on eacli^ fide the Coaft : the largeft and beft fortify'd by Nature, is that in the Hill Vliveal, in the middle of a high Rock ; the PafTage leading to it is fo narrow, that one C only ^4 ^Description o/rk only can enter at a time. This advantage renders it fecure from any Attempt ; for one fingle Man is able to keep off a thoufand, if he have but a Staff in his hand, fince with the lea ft touch of it he may throw the ftrongefl Man down the Rock. The Cave is capacious enough for 50 Men to lodg in : it hath two Wells in it, one of which is excluded from Dogs ; for they fay that if a Dog do but tafle of the Water, the Well prefently dryeth up : and for this reafon, all fuch as have occafion to lodg there, take care to tie their Dogs, that they may not have accefs to the Water. The other Well is calPd the Dogs- Well, and is only drunk by them. THERE are feveral antient Forts ere6led here, which the Natives fay were built by the Danes : they are of a round form, and have very thick Walls, and a PafTage in 'em by which one can go round the Fort. Some of the Stones that compofe 'em are very large : thefe Forts are named after the Villages in which they are built, as that in Borve is call'd Dow^-Bor-ve, &:c. They are built at convenient diftances on each fide the Coaft, and there is a Fort built in every one of the lefTer Ifles. THERE are feveral Stones here ere£l:ed on one end, one of which is in the Village of Borve, about 7 foot high. There is another Stone of the fame height to be feen in the op- pofite Wefiern Ijtands of Scotland. 3 5 pofite Ifle of Farmfay. There are feveral Heaps of Stones, commonly calPd Kjmes^ on the tops of Hills and rifmg Grounds on the Coafi:, upon which they us'd to burn Heath, as a Signal of an approaching Enemy. There was always a Sentinel at each Kjime to obferve the Sea-Coaft ; the Steward of the Ifle made fre- quent Rounds, to take notice of the Sentinels, and if he found any of them afleep, he ftript them of their Clothes, and defer'd their per- fonal Punifhments to the Proprietor of the Place. This Ifle produceth the fame kind of Cattle, Sheep, and Goats, that are in the Lewis. The Natives gave mean account, that a Couple of Goats did grow wild on the Hills, and after they had increas'd, they were obferv'd to bring forth their Young twice a Year. THERE are abundance of Deer in the Hills and Mountains here, commonly called the Forefl: ; which is 18 miles in length from Eaft to Wefl: : the number of Deer computed to be in this place, is at leaft: 2000 ; and there is none permitted to hunt there without a Licence from the Steward to the Forefl:er. There is a particular Mountain, and above a Mile of Ground furrounding it, to which no Man hath accefs to hunt, this place being re- ferv'd iov MMk-l€od^h\m{d^i \ who when he is difpos'dto hunt, is fure to find Game enough there. C 2 BOTH 1 6 ^ D E S C R I P T I O N 0/ tk BOTH Hills and Valleys in the Foreft are well provided with plenty of good Grafs mix'd widi Heath, which is- all the fhelter thefe Deer have during the Winter and Spring : there is not a Shrub of Wood to be ken in all the Foreft ; and when a Storm comes, the Deer betake themfelves to the Sea-Coaft, where they iced upon the Jlga Marm/i, or Sea-ware. THE Mertrickj a four-footed Creature, a- bout the fize of a big Cat, is pretty nume- rous in this Ifle : they have a fine Skin, which is finooth as any Fur, and of a brown Colour. They fay that the Dung of this Animal yields a Scent like Musk. THE Amphibia he^ce are Otters and Seals: the latter are eat by the meaner fort of People, who fay they are very nourifhing. The Na- tives take them with Nets, whofe ends are tyed by a Rope to the ftrong Alga^ or Sea-ware, growing on the Rocks. THIS Ifland abounds with variety of Land and Sea-Fowl, and particularly with very good Hawks. THERE are Eagles here of two forts ; the one is of a large fize and grey colour^ and thefe are very deftruQ:ive to the Fawns, Sheep, ^nd l.ambs. THE Wejlern Iflands of Scotland. 37 THE other is confiderably lefs, and black, and fhapM like a Hawk, and more deltrudive to the Deer, &c. than the bigger fort. THERE is no venomous Creatures of any kind here, except a Httle Viper, which was not thought venomous till of late, that a Wo- man died of a Wound fl:e receiv'd from one of them. I HAVE feen a great many Rats in the Vil- lage Rowdily which became very troublefome to the Natives, and deftroy'd all their Corn, Milk, Butter, Cheefe, &c. They could not extirpate thefe Vermin for fome time by al! their endeavours. A confiderable number of Cats was employ'd for this end, but were llill worfted, and became perfeQ:ly faint, becaufe overpower'd by the Rats, who were twenty to one. At length one of the Natives, of more fagacity than his Neighbours, found an Expe- dient to renew his Cat's Strength and Courage, which was by giving it warm Milk after every Encounter with the Rats ; and the like being given to all the other Cats afcer every Battle, fucceeded fo well, that they left not one Rat alive, notwithftanding thq great number of them in the place, ' ON the Eaft-fide the Village KotWi/, there is a Circle of Stone, within 8 Yards of the C 3 Shore; 3 8 ^Description of the Shore : it's about 3 fathom under Water, and about two ftories high ; it is in form broader above than below, like to the lower ftory of a Kiln : I faw it perfectly on one fide, but the Seafon being then windy, hinder'd me from a full view of it. The Natives fay that there is fuch another Circle of lefs compafs in the Pool Borodil, on the other fide the Bay. THE Shore on the Weft Coaft of this Ifland affords variety of curious Shells and Walks ; as Telling and Turbines of various kinds ; thin PatelU, ftreaked blue, various co- lour'd ; Vecfenes, fome blue, and fome of Orange Colours, THE OsSepte is found on the Sand in great quantities. The Natives pulverize it, and take a Dofe of it in boil'd Milk, which is found by experience to be an effectual Remedy a- gainft the Diarrhea and Dyfenteria. They rub this Powder likewife, to take off the Film on the Eyes of Sheep. THERE is variety of Nuts, calVd MoIIuka Beans, fome of which are ufed as Amulets againft Witchcraft, or an evil Eye, particu- larly the white one ; and upon this account they are wore about Child rens Necks, and if any Evil is intended to them, they fay the Nut changes into a black colour. That, they did change colour, I found true by my owa obfer-? Weftem Iflands of Scotland. ^9 obfervation, but cannot be pofitive as to the Caufe of it. MJ LC OM Campbell, Steward of Harries , told me, that fome Weeks before my arrival there, all his Cows gave Blood inftead of Milk, for feveral days together : one of the Neighbours told his Wife that this mull: be Witchcraft, and it would be eafy to remove it, if fhe would but take the white Nut, callM the Virgin Marys Nut, and lay it in the Pali into which fhe was to milk the Cows. This Ad- vice fhe prefently followed, and having milk'd one Cow into the Pale with the Nut in it, the Milk was all Blood, and the Nut chang'd its colour into dark brown : fhe ufed the Nut again, and all the Cows gave pure good Milk^ which they afcribe to the Virtue of the Nut. This very Nut Mr. Campbell prefented me with, and I keep it ftill by me. SOME fmall quantity o'i Amhergreafe hath been found on the Coaft of the Ifland Bemera, I was told that a Weaver in this Ifland had burnt a lump of it, to fhow him a Light for the moft part of the Night, but the ilrong Scent of it made his Head ake exceedmgly, by which it was difcover'd. A N antient Woman, about fixty Years of age, here loft her Hearing ; and having no Phyfician to give her Advice, fhe would needs C 4 try 4© ^Description of the try an experiment her felf, which was thus : She took a Quill with which fhe ordinarily fnuflied her Tobacco, and filling it with the Powder of Tobacco, pour'd it into her Ear ; which had the defir'd efFed, for (he could hear perfeftly well next day. Another Neigh- bour about the fame Age, having loft her Hearing fome time after, recover'd it by the fame Experiment, as I was told by the Na- tives. THE Sheep which feed here on. fandy Ground, become blind fometimes, and are curM by rubbing Chalk in their Eyes. A SERVANT o^ Sir Normo^d Mackleod% living in the Ifland of Bernera^ had a Mare that brought forth a Pole with both the hinder Feet cloven, which died about a Year after : the Natives concluded that it was a bad Omen to the Owner, and his Death, which followed in a few Years after, confirm^ them in their Opinion. THE Natives make ufe of the Seeds of a white wild Carrot, inftead of Hops, for brew- ing their Beer ; and they fay that it anfwers the end fuificiently well, and gives the Drink a good Relifh befides. 'JOHN CAMPBELL, Forefter of //^r- riesj makes ufe of this fmgular Remedy for Weftem IJlands of Scodmd. 41 a Cold : He walks into the Sea up to the middle with his Clothes on, and immediately after goes to bed in his wet Clothes, and then laying the Bed-clothes over him, procures a Sweat, which removes the Diftemper ; and this he told me is his only Remedy for all man- ner of Colds. One of the faid John Camfbell'^s Servants having his Cheek fwelPd, and there being no Phyfician near, he ask'd his Mailer's Advice : he knew nothing proper for him, but however bid him apply a Plaifter of warm Bar- ley-Dough to the place affefted. This af- fuaged the Swelling, and drew out of the Flefh a little Worm, about half an inch in length, and about the bignefs of a Goofe-quill, having a pointed Head, and many little Feet on each fide : this Worm they call Fillari, and it hath been found in the Head and Neck of feveral Perfons that I have feen in the Ifle of Skie, JLLIVM Latifolium^ a kind of wild Gar- licky is much ufed by fome of the Natives, as a Remedy againft the Stone : they boil it in Water, and drink the Infufion, and it expels Sand powerfully with great eafe. THE Natives told me, that the Rock on the Eaft-fide of Harries, in the Sound of Ifland Glafs, hath a Vacuity near the Front, on the Northweft fide of the Sound ; in which they fay there is a Stone that they call the L/^mr^ Sto/ie, which advances and retires according to thelncreafe and Decreafe of the Moon. A 42 ^Description o/r^e A POOR Man born in the Village Kon?^^7, commonly call'd St. Clements-blind^ loft his Sight at every Change of the Moon, which oblig'd him to keep his bed for a day or two, and then he recover'd his Sight. THE inferiour Iflands belonging to HarrkSy are as follow : The Ifland Bernera is five miles in Circumference, and lies about two Leagues to the South of Harries. The Soil is fandy for the moft part, and yields a great ProduA of Barley and Rye in a plentiful Year, efpe- cially if the Ground be enrich'd by Sea- ware, and that there be Rain enough to fatisfy the dry Soil. I had the opportunity to travel this Ifland feveral times, and upon a ftrift enquiry I found the Produd of Barley to be fometimes twenty fold and upwards, and at that time all the Eaft-fide of the Ifland pro- duc'd thirty fold. This hath been confirmed to me by the Natives, particularly by Sir Nor- mond Mackleod, who polTeiTes the Ifland : he likewife confirm'd to me the account given by all the Natives of Harries and Sotdth-Vifiy 'viz.. that one Barley-Grain produceth in fome places 7, lo, 12, and 14 Ears of Barley; of which he himfelf being diffident for fome time, was at the pains to fearch nicely the Root of one Grain after fome Weeks growth, and found that from this one Grain many Ears had been grown up. But this happens not, ex- cept Weftern IJlands of Scotland. 4^ cept when the Seafon is very favourable, or in Grounds that have not been cultivated fome Years before ; which if manur'd with. Sea-ware^ feldom fail to produce an extraordinary Crop. It is obferv'd in this Ifland, as elfewhere, that when the Ground is dug up with Spades, and the Turfs turn'd upfide down, and cover'd with Sea- ware, it yields a better Produd than when it is plow'd. THERE is a frefli-water Lake in this Ifland, caird Loch-Bruijl, in which there are fmall Iflands abounding with Land and Sea- Fowl, which build there in the Summer. There is hkewife plenty of Eels in this Lake, which are eafieft caught in September ; and then the Natives carry Lights with them in the Night-time to the Rivulet running from the Lake, in which the Eels fall down to the Sea in heaps together. THIS Ifland in the Summer is coverM all over with Clover and Dafy, except in the Corn-fields. There is to be feen about the Houfes of Bernera^ for the fpace of a mile, a fpft Subfl:ance, in fhew and colour exaftly refembling the Sea-plant, calFd SUke^ and grows very thick among the Grafs. The Na- tives fay, that it is the Produ8: of a dry hot Soil ; it grows likewife in the tops of feveral Hills in the Ifland of Harries, IT'S 44 ^ D E s c R I p T I o N o/ t/;^ IT'S proper to add here an Account of fe- veral ftrange Irregularities in the Tides, on Bernera Coall, by Sir Robert Murra,y^ mention'd in the Phil, Tranfa^ions. THE Tides increafe and decreafe gradually, according to the Moon's Age, fo as about the third day after the new and full Moon, in the Weftcrn Ifles and Continent they are common- ly at the higheft, and about the Qiiarter Moons at the loweft : (the former call'd Spring- Tides, the other Neap-Tides.) The Tides from the Quarter to the higheft Spring-Tide increafe in a certain proportion, and from the Spring-Tide to the Quarter-Tide in like pro- portion : and the Ebbs rife and fall always after the fame manner. IT'S fuppos'd that the Increafe of Tides is made in the proportion of Sines : the firft In- creafe exceeds the loweft in a fmall proportion, the next in a greater, the third greater than that, and fo on to the middle-moft, whereof the Excefs is the greateft ; diminiftiing again from that to the higheft Spring-Tide, fo as the Proportions before and after the middle, do anfwer one another. And likewife from the higheft Spring-Tide to the loweft Neap-Tide, the Decreafes feem to keep the like proportions : And this commonly falls out when no Wind, or other Accident caufes an alteration. , At the beginning We ft em Iflands of Scotland. 45 beginning of each Flood on the Coaft, the Tide moves fafter, but in a fmall degree, in- creafing its Swiftnefs till towards the middle of the Flood ; and then decreafmg in Swift- nefs again from the middle to the top of the High-water : it's fuppofed that the inequal Spaces of Time, the Increafe and Decreafe of Swiftnefs, and confequently the degrees of the Rifings and Fallings of the fame inequal Spa- ces of Time, are perform'd according to the proportion of Sines. The proportion cannot hold precifely and exactly in regard of the In- equalities that fall out in the Periods of the Tides, which are believM to follow certain Po- fitions of the Moon in regard of the Equinox, which are known not to keep a precife con- ftant Courfe : fo that there not being equal Portions of Time between one new Moon and another, the Moon's Return to the fame Me- ridian cannot be always perform'd in the fame time. -And the Tides from new Moon being not always the fame in number, or fometimes but 57, fometimes $8, fometimes 59, (with- out any certain Order or SuccefTion) is another Evidence of the difficulty of reducing this to any great Exadnefs. AT the Eafl: end of this Ifle, there is a ftrange Reciprocation of the Flux and Reflux of the Sea. There is another no lefs remarkable upon the Well: fide of the Long Illand : the Tides which come from the South- weft, run along 4<5 .//Description of the along the Coa{l: Northward ; fo that during the ordinary Courfe of the Tides, the Flood runs Eaft in the Frith, where Berneray lies, and the Ebb Weft : and thus the Sea ebbs and flows orderly, fome four days before the Full and Change, and as long after ; (the ordinary Spring-Tides rifing fome 14 or 1 5 Toot upright, and all the reft proportionably, as in other places) but afterwards, for four days before the Quarter Moons, and as long after, there is conftantly a great and fingular Variation. For then (a Southerly Moon making there the full Sea) the Courfe of the Tide being Eaft ward, when it begins to flow, which is about 9 4 of the clock, it not only continues fo about ^ 4. in the Afternoon, that it be High- water ; but after it begins to ebb, the Current runs on flill Eaft ward during the whole Ebb : fo that it runs Eaft ward 12 hours together, that is, all daylong, from about 94 in the Morning till about 9 : at Night. But then when the Night- Tide begins to flow, the Current turns, and runsWeftward all Night, during both Flood and Ebb, for fome 1 2 hours more, as it did Eaftward the day before. And thus the Reci- procations continue, one Flood and Ebb run- ning 1 2 hours Eaftward, and another 1 2 hours Weft ward, till 4 days before the Full and New Moon ; and then they refume their ordinary regular Courfe as before, running Eaft during the fix hours of Flood, and Weft during the fix of Ebb. THERE Weflern Ijlands of Scotland. 47 THERE is another extraordinary Irregu- larity in the Tides, which never fail : That whereas between the Vernal and Autumnal E- quinox, that is, for fix Months together, the Courfe of irregular Tides about the Quarter Moons, is to run all day, 1 2 hours, as from a- bout 9 4. to 91 or 10, exa6l Eaftward ; all night, that is, 1 2 hours more, Weftward : during the other fix Months, from the Autumnal to the Vernal Equinox, the Current runs all day Weft- ward, and all night Eaftward. I have obferv'd the Tides as above, for the fpace of fome days both in Afril^ May, July, and Augufi. The Na- tives have frequent opportunities to fee this both day and night, and they all agree that the Tides run as mention'd above. THERE'S a Couple of Ravens in this Ifland, which beat away all ravenous Fowls, and when their Young are able to fly abroad, they beat them alfo out of the Ifland, but not without many blows, and a great noife. THERE are two Chappels in thislfle, to wit, St. Jfaphh and St. Columbus's Chappel. There is a Stone erefted near the former, which is eight foot high, and two foot thick. ABOUT half a League from Bernera, to the Weftward, lies the Ifland Pabhay, ^ miles in Circumference, and having a Mountain in the middle. The Soil is fandy, and fruit- ful 48 ^ D E S C R ! P T I O N o/ J;^ ful In Corn and Grafs, and the Natives have lately difcoverM here a white Marble. The Weft end of this Ifland, which looks to St. KJl- dAy is caird the Wooden Harbour, becaufe the Sands at Low- Water difcover feveral Trees that have formerly grown there. Sir Normond Macklead told me, that he had feen a Tree cut there, which was afterwards ^rnade into a Harrow. THERE are two Chappels in this Ifland, one of which is dedicated to the Virgin Marj, the other to St. Muluag, THE Steward of KjUa^ who lives in Tab- ifaj, isaccuftom'd in time of a Storm to tie a bundle of Puddings, made of the Fat of Sea- Fowl, to the end of his Cable, and lets it fall into the Sea behind the Rudder : this, he fays, hinders the Waves from breaking, and calms the Sea ; but the Scent of the Greafe attrads the Whales, which put the Veffel in danger. ABOUT half a League to the North of Pabbaj, lies the Ille Sellay, a Mile in Circum- ference, that yields extraordinary Pafturage for Sheep, fo that they become fat very foon ; they have the biggeft Horns that ever I faw on Sheep. . ABOUT a League farther to the North, lies the IileT/tr^;2/^?j, very fruitful in Corn and Grafs, Weflern Iflamls of Scotland. 49 Grafs, and yields much yellow Talk. It is ^ Miles in Circumference, and has two Chap- pels, one dedicated to St. Tarrmy the other to St. Kjtth. THERE is an antient Tradition among the Nativ^es here, that a Man muft not be bury'd in St. Tanari\ nor a Woman in St. KfitPs, becaufe otherwife the Corps w^ould be found above-ground the day after it is in- terred. I told them this was a moll ridicu- lous Fancy, which they might foon perceive by experience, if they would but put it to a tryal. Roderick Campi^eli, who refides there, being of my opinion, refolved to embrace the firil opportunity that offer'd, in order to un- deceive the credulous Vulgar ; and according- ly a poor Man in this Ifland, who died a Year after, was bury'd in St. Tarra^'^s Chappel, con- trary to the antient Cuftom and Tradition of this place, but his Corps is frill in the Grave, from whence it is not like to rife until the ge^ neral Refurreftion. This Inftance has ddi- ver'd the credulous Natives from this unrea- fonable Fancy. This Ifland is a mi'e dilfant from the main Land of Harries, and when the Inhabitants go from this Ifland toHarruywith a defjgn to ftay for any time, they agree with thofe that carry them over, on a particular motion of walking upon a certain piece of Ground, unknown to every body but them- felves, as a Signal to brmg 'em back. D THREE JO ^ Descriptio N 0/ i/?e THREE Leagues to the Weft ward of this Ifland, lies Gaskevj about half a mile in Cir- cumference : it excels any other Plot of its extent, for Fruitfulnefs-in Grafs and Produ£l of Milk ; it maintains 8 or i o Cows. The Natives kill Seals here, which are very big. ABOUT two Leagues farther North lies the Ifland Scarp, two miles in Circumference, and is a high Land cover'd with Heath and Grafs. BETWEEN Bemera and the main Land of Harries lies the Ifland Enfay, which is above two miles in Circumference, and for the moft part arable Ground, which is fruitful in Corn and Grafs : there is an old Chappel here, for the ufe of the Natives ; and there was lately difcover'd a Grave in the Weft end of the Ifland, in which was found a pair of Scales made of Brafs, and a little Hammer, both which were finely polifli'd. BETWEEN Enfxy and the main Land of Harries, lie feveral fmall Iflands, fitter for Paf- turage than Cultivation. THE little \{[2ind Quedam hath a Vein of Adamant Stone, in the front of the Rock. The Natives fay that Mice don't live in this Ifland, and when they chance to be carry'd thither among Weftern JJlands of Scotland. j ( among Corn, they die quickly after. Without thefe fmall Iflands, there is a TraO: of fmall Ifles in the fame Line with the Eaft fide of the Harries and North-Vifi : they are in all refpeds of the fame nature with thofe two Iflands, {o that the fight of them is apt to difpofe one to think that they have been once united together. THE moft Southerly of thefe Iflands, and the nearefl: to North-Vifi is Her me tr a, two miles m Circumference : it is a mooriih Soil, co- ver'd all over almofl: with Heath, except here and there a few Piles of Grafs, and the Plant Milk- wort ; yet notwithfl:anding this difad- vantage, it is certainly the befl: Spot of its extent, for Paft;urage, among thefe Ifles, and affords great plenty of Milk in January and f>- hruary beyond what can be feen in tne other Iflands. I SAW here the Foundation of a Houfe built by the Engltfh^ in K. Charles the Firfl:'s time, for one of their Magazines to lay up the Cask, Salt, &c, for carrying on the Fifliery, which was then begun in the Weflern Iflands ; but this Defign milcarry'd becaufe of the Civil Wars, which then broke out. THE Channel between Harries and North' Vtfty is above three Leagues in breadth, and abounds with Rocks, as well under as above Water : tho at the fame time VeHels of ^oo D 2 Tuns 51 ^Description of the Tuns have gone through it, from Eaft to "Weft, having the advantage of one of the Natives for a Pilot. Some i6 Years ago, one Captain Frofi \v3.s fafely conduQied in this manner. The Harries belongs in Property to the Laird of Mackleod : he and all the Inhabitants are Proteftants, and obferve the Feft ivals of Chrip- 7?^asy Good-Friday, and St. MichaePs Day ; upon the latter, they rendezvous on horfe-back, and make their Cavalcade on the Sands at low Water. THE Ifland of AV/^-F// lies about three Leagues to the South of the Ifland of Harries^ being in form of a Semicircle, the Diameter of wiiich looks to the Eaft, and is mountainous and full of Heath, and fitter for Pafturage than Cultivation. The Weft fide is of a quite dif- ferent Soil, arable and plain : the whole is in length from South to North nine miles, and about thirty in Circumference. T H E R E are four Mountains in the mid- dle, two lie within lefs than a mile of each other, and are call'd South and North-Lee. All the Hills and Heath afford good Pafturage, tho it confifts as much of Heath as Grafs. The arable Ground hath a mixture of Clay in fome places, and it is cover'd all over in Summer- time and Harveft with Clover, Dafy, and v^iety of other Plants, pleafant to the Sight, an,d of a very fragrant Smell; and abounds with WeftevH IjTnnds of Scotland. 55 with black Cattle and Sheep. The Soil is very grateful to the Husbandman, yielding a Pro- duce of Barley, from ten to thirty fold in a plentiful Year ; provided the Ground be ma- iiur'd with Sea-ware, and that it have Rain proportionable to the Soil. I have upon feveral occafions enquired conce'rning the Produce of Barley, in this and the neighbouring Iflands ; the fame being much doubted in the South of Scotland, as well as in England : and upon the whole, I have been ailur'd by the moll an- tientand induftrious of the Natives, that the Increafe is the fame as mention'd before in Harries, THEY told me likewife, that a Plot of Ground which hath lain unmanur'd for fome Years, would in a plentiful feafon produce fourteen Ears of Barley from one Grain ; and feveral Ridges were then fhew'd me of this extraordinary Growth in different places. The Grain fown here is Barley, Oats, Rye ; and it's not to be doubted but the Soil would alfo produce Wheat. The way of Tillage here is commonly by ploughing, and fome by digging. The ordinary Plough is drawn by four Horfes, and they have a little Plough alfo calFd Riif le, /. e. a thing that cleaves, the Culter of which is in form of a Sickle ; and it is drawn fome- times by one, and fometim.es by two Borfes, according as the Ground is.' The Defign of this little Plough is to draw a deep Line m D ^ the 54 ^Description of the the Ground, to make it the more eafy for the big Plough to follow, which other wife would be much retarded by the ftrong Roots of Bent lying deep in the Ground, that are cut by the little Plough. When they dig with Spades, it produceth more Increafe : the little Plough is like wife ufed to facilitate digging as well as ploughing. They continue to manure the Ground until the tenth of Ju/te, if they have plenty of Braggir, i. e. the broad Leaves grow- ing on the top of the Algn-Marina, ABOUT a League and a half to the South of the Ifland Hermetra. in Harries^ lies Loch- Maddy^ fo calPd from the three Rocks without the Entry on the South fide. They are calPd Maddies, from the great quantity of big Muf- cles, caird Maddies, that grows upon them. This Harbour is capacious enough for fome hundreds of Veffels of any Burden : it hath feveral Ifles within it, and they contribute to the Security of the Harbour, for a VelTel may fafely come clofe to the Key. The Seamen divide the Harbour in two parts, calling the South fide Loch-Maddj, and the North fide Loch-PartaK. 1 here is one Ifland in the South Loch^ which for its Commodioufnefs is by the EngUjh caird Nonfuch, This Loch hath been famous for the great quantity of Herrings yearly taken in it within thefe fifty Years laft pall:. The Nauves told me, that in the me- mory of fome yet alive, there had been ^oo Sail iVeftern IJlands of Scotland. ^j Sail loaded in it with Herrings at one Seafon ; but it is not now frequented for Fifhing, tho the Herrings do ftill abound in. it : and on tliis Coaft every Summer and Harveft, the Natives fit angling on the Rocks, and as they pull up their Hooks, do many times bring up Herrings. That they are always on the Coaft, appears from the Birds, Whales, and other Fifhes, that are their Forerunners every where ; and yet it is ftrange, that in all this If land there is not one Herring-Net to be had : but if the Natives faw any Encouragement, they could foon provide 'em. Cod, Ling, and all forts of Firti taken in thefe Iflands, abound in and about this Lake. IN this Harbour there is a fmall Ifland call'd Fackfaj, in which there is ftill to be feen the Foundation of a Houfe, built by the Er/g* Ifjb, for a Magazine to keep their Cask, Salt, &c, for carrying on a great Fifhery which was then begun there. The Natives told me, that KingCharles the Firft had a fhare in it. This Lake, with the Convenience of its Fiihings and Iflands, is certainly capable of great Improve- ment : much of the Ground about the Bay is capable of Cultivation, and affords a great deal of Fuel, as Turff, Peats, and plenty of frefh Water. It alfo affords a good quantity of Oyfters, and Clam-fhell-iifh ; the former grow on Rocks, and are fo big that they are cut in four pieces before they are eat. D 4 ABOUT 5 6 o^ D E s c R I p T 1 o N of the ABOUT half a mile further South is Loch" Epon, having a Rock without the Mouth of the Entry, which is narrow : the Lake pene- trates fome miles towards the Weft, and is a good Harbour, having feveral fmall Ifles with- in it. The Seals are very numerous here. In the Month of July the Spring-Tides carry in a great quantity of Mackrel, and at the return of the Water they are found many times lying on the Rocks. The vulgar Natives make ufe of the Allies of burnt Sea-ware, which pre- ferves them for fome time inftead of Salt. • A B OUT two miles to the South of Loch" Eporf lies the Bay calFd the Ky^e of Ro^a ; having the Ifland of that name (which is a ht- tle Hill) within the Bay : there is a Harbour on each fide of it. This Place hath been found of great convenience for the fifliing of Cod and Ling, which abound on this Coalt. There is a little Chappel in the Ifland Ro^a, call'd the Low-landers Chappel, becaufe Seamen who ^ic in time of fiibing, are bury'd in that place, THERE is a Harbour on the South fide the Ifland Bonra ; the Entry feems to be nar- rower than really it is : the Ifland and the op- poflte Point of Land appear like two little Pro- montoi-ies off at Sea. Some Veifels have been forc'd in there by Storm, as \vas Captain Fe^ ters Wcflcm IJlands of Scotland. ^7 ters a Dutch Man, and after him an EngUfb Ship, who both approv'd of this Harbour. The former built a Cock-bOat there on a Sun- day, at which the Natives were much offen- ded : The latter having landed in the Iflai^., happened to come into a Houfe where he found only ten Women, and they were employed (as he fuppos'd) in a ftrange manner, 'viz. their- Arms and Legs Were bare, being five on a fide; and between them lay a Board, upon which they had laid a piece of Cloth, and were thickning of it with their Hands and Feet, and Tinging all the while. The £«^/.^>man prefently concluded it to be a little Bedlam, which he did not expect in fo remote a Corner : and this he told to Mr. Jolm Macklean^ who poiTefTes the Illand. Mr. Macklem anfwer'd, he never faw any mad People in thofe lilands : but this would not fatisfy him, till they both went to the place where the Women were at work ; and then Mr. MackleMi having told him, that it was their common way of thickning Cloth, he was convinc'd, tho furprizM at the manner of it. THERE is fuch a number of freflv water Lakes here, a^ can hardly be believed : I my felf and feveral others endeavoured to number them, but in vain, for they are fo difposM into turnings, that it is impracficable. They are generally well ftock'd with Trouts and Eels, and fome of 'em with Salmon j and which is yet jS ^Description of the yet more ftrange, Cod, Ling, Mackrel, &c, are taken in thefe Lakes, into which they are brought by the Spring-Tides. THESE Lakes have many fmall Illands, which in Summer abound with variety of Land and Sea-Fowls, that build and hatch there. There be alfo feveral Rivers here, which afford Salmon : one fort of them is very Angular, that is caird Marled Salmon, or, as the Natives call it, leskdruimin^ being lefTer than the ordinary Salmon, and full of ftrong large Scales ; no Bait can allure it, and a Shadow frights it away, being the wildeft of Fifhes : it leaps high above water, and delights to be in the Surface of it. there's great plenty of Shell-fifh round this Ifland, more particularly Cockles: the Iflands do alfo afford many fmall Fifh call'd Eels, of a whitifh colour ; they are picked out of the Sand with a fmall crooked Iron made on purpofe. There is plenty of Lobflers on the Weft fide of this Ifland, and one fort bigger than the reft, having the Toe fhorter and broader. there are feveral antient Forts in this Ifland, built upon Eminences, or in the middle of frefh- water Lakes. HE RE are likewife feveral Kairns or Heaps of Stones ; the biggeft I obferv'd was on a Hill near to Loch-E^oru There are three Stones e reded Wejiern Iflands of Scotland. 59 ere£led about five foot high, at the diftance of a quarter of a mile from one another, on Emi- nences about a mile from Locb-Maddj^ to amufe Invaders ; for w^hich r€afon they are ftill call'd falfe Sentinels. THERE is a Stone of 24 foot long and 4 in breadth in the Hill Crinived : the Natives fay, a Giant of a Month old vi'as bury'd under it. There is a very confpicuous Stone in the face of the Hill above St. Peter'^s Village, above eight foot high. THERE is another about eight foot high at Down-rojfel, vj\\\c\\ the Natives call a Crols. There are two broad Stones about eight foot high, on the Hill two miles to the South of Vday. THERE is another at the Key, oppofite to KJrkibaft^ 1 2 foot high : the Natives fay that Delinquents were ty'd to this Stone in time of Divine Service. THERE is a Stone in form of a Crofs in the Row, oppofite to St. Marfs Church, about 5 foot high : the Natives call it the Water- Crofs, for the antient Inhabitants had a Cuftom of erecting this fort of Crofs to procure Rain, and when they had got enough, they laid it flat on the ground, but this Cuftom is now difufed. The inferiour llland is the Illand of Heiskir^ which 6o yf Desckivtio N of the which lies near three Leagues Weft ward of North-Fifty is three miles in Circumference, of a fandy Soil, and very fruitful in Corn and Grafs, and black Cattle. The Inhabitants la- bour under want of Fuel of all forts, which obliges them to burn Cows-Dung, Barley-ftraw, and dry'd Sea- ware : the Natives told me, that Bread baked by the Fuel of Sea-ware, relifhes better than that done otherwife. They are ac • cuftom'd to fait their Cheefe with the Afhes of Barley-ftraw, which they fuffer not to lie on it above 1 2 hours time, becaufe otherwife it would fpoil it. There was a Stone-Cheft lately dif- cover'd here, having an earthen Pitcher in it which was full of Bones, and as foon as touch'd they turn'd to Duft. THERE are two fmall Iflands feparated by narrow Channels from the North weft of this Ifland, and are of the fame Mould with the big lOand. The Natives fay, that there is a Couple of Ravtus there, which fuffer no other of their Kind to approach this Ifland, and if any fuch chance to come, this Couple immediately drive them away, with fuch a noife as is heard by all the Inhabitants ; they are obferv'd like- wife to beat away their Young as foon as they be able to purchafe for themfelves. The Na- tives told me, that when one of this Couple hap- pen'd to be wounded by Guii-fhot, it lay ftill in the corner of a Rock for a week or two, du- ring which time its Mate brouglit Provifion to it Wcjlern IJlands of Scotland. 6i it daily, until it recover'd peife6lly. The Na- tives add further, that one of thefe two Ravens having died fome time after, the furviving one abandoned the Ifland for a few days, and then was feen to return with about ten or twelve more of its kind, and having chofen a Mate out of this number, all the reft went quite off, leav- ing thefe two in poflellion of their little King- dom. They do by a certain Sagacity difcover to the Inhabitants any Carcafe, on the Shore or in the Fields, whereof I have ken feveral In- llances: the Inhabitants pretend to know by their noife, whether it be Flefli or Fifh. I told them, this was fuch a Nicety that I could fcarcely give it credit ; but they anfwer'd me, that they came to the knowledg of it by Obfer- vation, and that they make their loudcii: noife for Flefh. There is a narrow Channel between the Ifland of Heisker and one of the leffer Iflands, in which the Natives formerly kilPd many Seals, in this manner : They twilled together feveral fmall Ropes of Horfe-halr in form of a Net, contracted at one end like a Purfe ; and fo by opening and fhutting this Hair-Net, thefe Seals were catch'd in the narrow Channel. On the South fide of North-Vifi are the Iflands of llleray, which are acceffible at I9W Water ; each of them being three miles in compafs, and very fertile in Corn and Cattle. O N the Weftern Coail: of this Ifland lies the Rock Eoufmil^ about a quarter of a mile in 6z ^Description of the m Circumference, and it is ftill famous for the yearly fifhing of Seals there, in the end of October. This Rock belongs to the Farmers of the next adjacent Lands : there is one who fur- nifheth a Boat, to whom there is a particular fhare due on that account, befides his Propor- tion as Tenant. The Parifli-Minifter hath his choice of all the young Seals, and that which he takes is call'd by the Natives, Culkn-Mory^ that is, the Virgin Mar/s Seal. The Steward of the Ifland hath one paid to him, his Officer hath another, and this by virtue of their Offi- ces. Thefe Farmers man their Boat with a competent number fit for the bufmefs, and they always imbark with a contrary Wind, for their fecurity againft being driven away by the Ocean, and likewife to prevent them from being difcover'd by the Seals, who are apt to fmell the Scent of them, and prefently run to Sea. WHEN this Crew is quietly landed, they furround the Paffes, and then the Signal for the general Attack is given from the Boat, and fo they beat them down with big Staves. The Seals at this Onfet make towards the Sea with all fpeed, and often force their Paflage over the necks of the ftouteft Affailants, who aim always at the Forehead of the Seals, giving many blows before they be kill'd ; and li they be not hit exaftly on the front, they contrad a Lump on their Forehead, which makes them look very fierce \ and ii they get hold of the Staff with their Weftern JJlands of Scotland. 6; their Teeth, they carry it along to Sea with them. Thofe that are in the Boat fhoot at them as they run to Sea, but few are catch'd that way. The Natives told me, that feveral of the biggeft Seals lofe their Lives by endea- vouring to fave their young ones, whom they tumble before them towards the Sea. I was told alfo, that ^20 Seals, young and old, have been kill'd at one time in this place. The rea- fon of attacking 'em in 0(^o^fr, is, becaufe in the beginning of this Month the Seals bring forth their Young on the Ocean fide ; but thefe on the Eaft fide, who are of the lelTer fl:ature, bring forth their Young in the middle of THE Seals eat no Fifh till they firfi: take off the Skin : they hold the Head of the Fifh be- tween their Teeth, and pluck the Skin off each fide with their fharp-pointed Nails ; this I ob- ferv'd feveral times. The Natives told me, that the Seals are regularly coupled, and refent an Encroachment on their Mates at an ex- traordinary rate : The Natives have obferv'd, that when a Male had invaded a Female, al- ready coupled to another, the injur'd Male, upon its Return to its Mate, would by a fl:range Sagacity find it out, and refent it againfl: the AggrelTor by a bloody Conflift, which gives a red Tinfture to the Sea in that part where they fight. This piece of Revenge has been often obferv'd by Seal-Hunters, and many others of un- ^4 ^ De SCR iPTiON of the unqueftionable Integrity, whofe OccafionS ob-^ ligM them to be much on this Coall:. I was aitur'd by good hands, that the Seals make their AddreiTes to each other by KilTes : this hath been obferv'd often by Men and Women, as filhing on the Coall in a clear Day. The Fe- male puts away its Young from fucking, as foon as it is able to provide for it felf ; and this is not done without many fevere Blows. THERE is a Hole in the Skin of the Fe- male, within which the Teats arefecured from being hurt, as it creeps along the Rocks and Stones ; for which* caufe, Nature hath form'd the Point of the Tongue of the young one clo- ven, without which it could not fuck. THE Natives fait the Seals with the Aflies of burnt Sea-ware, and fay they are good Food : the Vulgar eat them commonly in the Spring- time with a long pointed Stick inftead of a Fork, to prevent the ftrong Smell which their hands would otherwife have for feveral hours after. The Fielli and Broth of frelh young Seals is by experience known to be perioral ; the Meat is ailringent, and ufed as an effeftual Remedy againfl: the Diarrhea and Dyfente- ria : the Liver of a Seal being dry'd and pul- verized, and afterwards a little of it drunk with Milk, Aquavkx^ or red Wine, is alfo good agaiall Fluxes. SOME Weft em Jflands of Scotland. 6') SOME of the Natives wear a Girdle of the Seal-Skin about the middle, for removing the Scia_tica, as thofe of the Shire oi Aberdeen wear it to remove the Chin-cough. This four- footed Creature is reckoned one of the fwifceil la the Sea ; they fay likewife, that it leaps in cold Weather the height of a Pike above wa- ter, and that the Skin of it is whice in Sum- mer, and darker in Winter ; and that their Hair flands on end with the Flood, and falls again at the Ebb. The Skin is by the Natives cut in long pieces, and then made ufe of inftead of Ropes to fix the Plough to their Horfes, when they till the Ground. ► THE Seal, tho efteem'd fit only for the Vulgar, is alfo eaten by Perfons of Dill:in£lion, tho under a different Name, to wit, Hamm : this I have been alTur'd of by good hands, and thus we fee that the generality of Men are as much led by Fancy as Judgment in their Pa- lates, as well as in other things* The Popifh Vulgar, in the Illands Southward from this, eat thefe Seals in Le^f inilead of Fifh. This occa- fion'd a Debate between a Pro'-eftant Gentle- man and a Papiil: of my Acquaintance : the former alledg'd that the other had trafngrefs'd the Rules of his Church, by eating FleOi in Lent: the latter anfwer'd, that he did not; for, fays he, I have eat a Sea-Creature, which only lives and feeds upon Fifh-. The Protellant re- E ply'd, 66 ^Description of tU ply'd, that this Creature is amphibious, lies, creeps, eats, deeps, and fo fpends much of its time on Land, which no Fiih can do and live. It hath alfo anotlier Faculty that no Fiili has, that is, \c- breaks Wind backward fo loudly, that one may hear it at a great diftance. But the Papift flill maintain'd that he mufb believe it to be Fifli, till fuch time as the Pope and his Fi'iells decide the queiiion. ABOUT three Leagues and a half to the Well:, lie the fmall Iflands call'd Hamker-Rocks, and H^wsker-Eggath, and Hawsker-Nimannich^ 'id'^fi; Mofiks-Rock- which hath an Altar in it. The firfl: call'd fo from the Ocean, as being near to it ; for Haiv or Thau in the antient Lan- guage fignifies the Ocean : the more Southerly Rocks are fix or feven big ones nicked or inden- ted, for Eggath fignifies fo much. The largeil Ifland, which is Northward, is near half a mile in Circumference, and it is covered with long Grafs. Only fmall Veffels can pafs be- tween this and the Southern Rocks, being neareft to St, KjUa of all the Vv^eit Iflands : both of 'em abound with Fowls as much as any.Iiles of their extent in St. JsjUa. The Coulterneb, Guillemot, and Scarts, are moft nunierous here ; the Seals likewife abound very much in and about thefe Rocks. T li E LHand of Falay lies on the Weft, near the main Land of Nvrih-Vifi; it. is about four miles Wejhrn I/lands of Scotland. 6f miles In Circumference, arable and a dry fan^ dy Soil, very fruitful in Corn and Grafs, Clo- ver and Daly. It hath three Chappels ; one dedicated to St. Vlton^ and another to the Vir- gin Mary, There are two Croffes of Stone, each of them about 7 foot high, and a foot and a half broad. THERE is a little Font on an Altar, being a big Stone, round like a Cannon-Ball, and having in the upper end a little Vacuity capa- ble of two Spoonfuls of Water. Below the Chappels there is a flat thin Stone, call'd Browmes Stone, upon which the antient Inha- bitants offerM a Cow's Milk every Sunday ; but this Cuftom is now quite abolilVd. Some thirty paces on this fide, is to be feen a little ftone Houfe under gronnd ; it is very low and long, having an Entry on the Sea-fide : I faw an Entry in the middle of it, which was dif- cover'd by the falling of the Stones and Earth. ABOUT a League to the North-eafl: of VaUy is the Ifland of Borera, about four miles in Circumference : the Mould in fome places is fandy, and in others black Earth ; it is very fruitful in Cattle and Grafs. I faw a Mare here, which I was told brought forth a Pole in her fecond Year. THERE is a Cow here that brought forth two Female Calves at once, in all things fo verv E 2 like 68 ^ Descriptio N o/ ffce like one another, that they could not be diftirt- guifh'd by any outward Mark ; and had fuch a Sympathy, that they were never feparate, ex- cept in time of fucking, and then they kept ftiil their own fide of their Dam, which was not obferv'd until a diftinguifhing Mark was put about one of their Necks by the Milk- maid. In the middle of this Ifland there's a frefh-water Lake, well ftock'd with very big Eels, fome of them as long as Cod or Ling- Fifh. There is a Baffage under the ftony Ground, which is between the Sea and the Lake, thro which it's fuppos'd the Eels come in with the Spring-Tides : one of the Inhabitants calPd Mack-Famcb, i. e. Monks-Son^ had the cu- riofity to creep naked thro this PalTage* THIS Ifland affords the largeft and beft Dulfe for eating ; it requires leis Butter than any other of this fort, and has a mellowifli Tafte. THE Burial-place near theHoufesis call'd the Monks-Field, for all the Monks that died in the Iflands that lie Northward from Egg^ were bury'd in this little Plot : each Grave hath a Stone at both ends, fome of which are ^, and others 4 foot high. There are big Stones with- out the Burial-place even with the Ground ; fe- veral of them have little Vacuities in them as if made by Art : the Tradition is, that thefe Vacuities were dug for receiving the Monks Knees, when they pray'd upon 'em. THE Wcftem IJlands of Scotland. 6^ THE Ifland Lingay lies half a League South on the fide of Borer a : it is fingular in refpe6l of all the Lands of Viji, and the other Iflands that furround it, for they are all com- posed of Sand, and this on the contrary is alto- gether Mofs cover'd with Heath, affording five Peats in depth ; and is very ferviceable and ufeful, furnifhing the Ifland Borer a^ Sec. vi^ith plenty of good Fuel. This Ifland was held as confecrated for feveral Ages, infomuch that the Natives would not then prefume to cut any Fuel in it. THE Cattle produced here, are Horfes, Cows, Sheep and Hogs, generally of a low ifa- ture. The Horfes are very ftrong, and fit for Pads, tho expos'd to the Rigour of the Weather all the Winter and Spring in the open Fields, Their Cows are alfo in the Fields all the Spring, and their Beef is fv/eet and tender as any can be : they live upon Sea-ware in the Winter and Spring, and are fatned by it, nor are they flaughter'd before they eat plentifully of it in Deceml?er. The Natives are accuflom'd to fait their Beef in a Cow's Hide, which keeps it clofe from Air, and preferves it as well, if not better, than Barrels, and tafl:es they fay beft when this way ufed. This Beef is tranfported to GUfgov^ a City in phe Weft of ScotUnd^ and from thence (being put into Barrels there) ex- portecj to the Indies in good condition. The E J HHls 70 ^ DeS CRIPTIO N o/" t/;e Hills afford fome hundreds of Deer, who eat S^a-ware alfo in Winter and Spring-time. THE AmfhibtA produc'd here are Seals and Otters. There is no Fox or venomous Crea- ture in this Ifland. The great Eagles here faften their Tallons in the back of Fifh, and commonly of Salmon, which is often above water and in the furface. The Natives, who in the Summer-time live on the Coaft^ do fomc- times rob the Eagle of its Prey after its Janding, HERE are Hawks, Eagles, Pheafants, Moor-Fowls, Tarmogan, Plover, Pigeons, Crows, Swans, and all the ordinary Sea-Fowls in the Weftlflands. The Eagles are very de- ftruflive to the Fawns and Lambs, efpecially the black Eagle, which is of a lelTer fize than the other. The Natives obferve, that it fixes its Tallons between the Deers Horns, and beats its "Wings conftantly about its Eyes ; which puts the Deer to run continually till it fall into a Ditch, or over a Precipice, where it dies, and fo becomes a Prey to this cunning Hunter. There are at the fame time feveral other Eagles of this kind, which fly on both fides of the Deer ; which fright it extremely, and contri- bute much to its more fudden Deftruftion, THE Forefter and feveral of the Natives siTur'd mej that they had {^(^ai both forts of Eagles Wejleni Jfands of Scotland. yi Eagles kill Deer in this manner. The Swans come hither in great numbers in the Month of October, with North-Eaft Winds, and live in the frefli Lakes, where they feed upon Trout and Water-Plants till Marcb^ at which time they fly away again with a South-Eaft Wind. When the Natives kill a Swan, it is common for the Eaters of it to make a Nega- tive Vow (i. e, they fwear never to do fome- thing that is in it felf impradicable) before they tafte of the Fowl, THE Bird Cor ;2-Cr^('^r is about the bignefs of a Pigeon, having a longer Neck, and being of a brown Colour, but blacker in Harveft than in Summer : the Natives fay it lives by the Water, and under the Ice in Winter and Spring. THE Cdk is a Fowl fomewhat lefs than a Goofe, hath Feathers of divers colours, as white, grey, green, and black, and is beautiful to the Eye : it hath a Tuft on the Crown of its Head hke that of a Peacock, and a Train lon- ger than that of a Houfe-Cock. This Fowl iofeth its Feathers in time of hatching, and lives moftly in the remoteft Iflands, as Heisker and Ro}2a, THE Gmli?i is a Fowl lefs than a Duck, it is reckon'd a true Prognofticator of fair Wea- ther ; for when it fings, fair and good Wea- ther always follows, as the Natives commonly E 4 obicrve : 71 ^Description of the obferve : the Piper of St. Kjlda plays the Notes which it fings, and hath compofed a Tune of 'em, which the Natives judg to be very fine Mufick. THE Rain-Goofe, bigger than a Duck, makes a doleful Noife before a great Rain ; it builds its Neft always upon the brink of frefh- water Lakes, fo as it may reach the water. THE Bonnivochil^ fo call'd by the Natives, and by the Se^imen B^jhop and Carrara^ as big as a Goofe, having a white Spot on the Breall, and the reft party-colour'd ; it feldom flies, but is exceeding quick in diving. The Minifter of North-Vtfi told me, that he kilPd one of them which weigh'd fixteen Pound and an Ounce : there is about an Inch-deep of Fat upon the Skin of it, which the Natives apply to the Hip-Bone, and by experience find it a fuccefsful Remedy for removing the Sciatica. THE Bird Goylir^ about the bignefs of a Swallow, is obferv'd never to land but in the Month of January, at which time it is fuppos'd to hatch ; it dives with a violent fwiftnefs. "When any number of thefe Fowls are feen to- gether, it's concluded to be an undoubted fign of an approaching Storm ; and when the Storm ceafes, they difappear under the water. 'Ihe Seamen call them Maltfigies, from Mdi^efflgteSy which they often find to be true, THE Wejiern Jflands of Scotland. 7j THE Bird Sereachan-ainin is about the big- nefs of a large Mall, but having a longer Body, and a bluifh Colour ; the Bill is of a Carnation Colour. This Bird Ihrieks moft hideoufly, and is obferv'd to have a greater AflPedion for its Mate, than any Fowl whatfoever ; for when the Cock or Hen is kill'd, the furviving one doth for eight or ten days afterward make a lamentable noife about the place. THE Bird FaskUar, about the bignefs of a Sea-Marv of the middle fize, is obferv'd to fly with greater fwiftnefs than any other Fowl in thofe parts, and purfues lefTer Fowls, and forces them in their flight to let fall the Food which they have got, and by its Nimblenefs catches it, before it touch the Ground. THE Natives obferve that an extraordinary Heat without Rain, at the ufual tin^e the Sea« Fowls lay their Eggs, hinders them from lay- ing any Eggs for about eight or ten days; whereas warm Weather accompany'd with Rain difpofes them to lay much fooner. THE Wild-Geefe are plentiful here, and very deftru8:ive to the Barley, notwithftanding the many methods ufed for driving them away both by Traps and Gun-£hot. There are fome Flocks of barren Fowls of all kinds, which are diftinguifh'd by their not joining with the 74 ^ E) E S C R I P T I O N 0/ rk' the reft of their kind, and they are feen com- monly upon the bare Rocks, without any Nefts. THE Air is here moift and moderately cold, the Natives qualify it fometimes by- drinking a Giafs of Vjqueb days. THERE is a Valley between two Moun- tains on the Eaft-fide, calPd Gtenflyte^ vj\\\cb. affords good Pafturage. The Natives who farm it, come thither with their Cattle in the Summer-time, and are poirefTed with a firm Belief that this Valley is haunted by Spirits, who by the'lnhabitants are calPd the great Men; and that whatfoever Man or Woman enters the Valley, without making firft an en- tire Refignation of themfelves to the Conduct of the great Men, will infallibly grow mad. The words by which he or Hie gives up liim- fplf to thelc Mens Conduct, are compreheq- F 3 ded 26 .//Description of the ded in three Sentences, wherein the Glen h twice named ; to which they add, that it is in- habited by thefe great Men, and that fuch as enter depend on their Protection. I told the Natives, that this was a piece of filly Credu- lity as ever was impos'd upon the moft igno- rant Ages, and that their imagina';y Frote6>or$ delerv'd no fuch Invocation. They anfwer'd, That there had happen'd a late Inftance of a Woman who went into that Gle^ without re- figning her felf to the Conduct of thef^ Men, and immediately after fhe became mad ; which confirm'd them in their unreafonabie Fancy. THE People refiding here in Summer, fay they fometimes hear a loud noife in the Air, like M^n fpeaking. I enquired if their Prieft had preachM or argu'd againft this fuperfti- tious Cuftom ? '1 hey told me, he knew better things, and would not be guilty of difTuading Men from doing their Duty, which they doubted not he judg'd this to be; and that they refoiv'd to perfiil in the Belief of it, until they found better Motives to the contrary, than have been fhew'd thern hitherto. The iProteftant Minifter hath often endeavour'd to Tundeceive them., but in vain, becaufe of an Implicit Faith they have in their Prieft : and when the Topicks of P^rfuafion, tho never fo urgent, come from one they believe to be a Heretick, there js little hope of fuccefs. THE Wefleni.Jflmds: of. Scotland. 8;^ .^: Oil. ' - ••! ,. y' THE Ijland Erifca, about a Mile in length, and three in circumference, is partly lieathy, and partly arable, and yields a good Produce. The inner-fide hath a wide Anchorage, there is excellent Cod and Ling in it ; the Natives begin to manage it better, but not to that ad- vantage it is capable of. The fmall Ifland near it was overgrown with Heath, and about three Years ago the Ground threw up all that Heath from the very root, fo that there is not now one Shrub of it in all this Ifland. Such as have occafion to travel by Land between South'Vijt and Benhecula, or Be?ibecuU and North- Vifi^ had need of a Guide to dired them, and to obferve the Tide when low, and alfo for croffing the Channel at the right Fords, elfe they cannot pafs without danger, THERE are fome Houfes under-ground in this Ifland, and they are in all points like thofe defcrib'd in North-Vtft ; one of tliem is in the South Ferry-Town, oppoflte to Barray, The Cattle produced here, are like thofe of North-Vifi^ and there are above three hundred Deer in this Ifland : it was believed generally, that no venomous Creature was here, yet of late fome little Vipers have been feen in the South end of the Ifland. THE Natives fpeak the Iri[fj Tongue more perfedly here, than in moil of the other F 4 Iflands; 88 ^ Desckiption of the Iflands -, partly becaufe of the Remotenefs, and the Imall number of thofe that fpeak EngUflj^ and partly becaufe fome of 'em are Scholars, and vers'd in the Iriflj Language. They >jv'ear the fame Habit with the neighbouring Iflan- ders. THE more antient People continue to wear the old Drefs, efpecially Women : they are a hofpitable well-meaning People, but the Misfortune of their Education difpofes them to Uncharitablenefs, and rigid Thoughts of their Proteftant Neighbours ; tho at the fame time they find it convenient to make Alliances with them. The Churches here are St. Co- lumha and St. M^r^'s in Hogh-more^ the moft centrical place in the Ifland ; St. ^eremf^ Chap- pels, St, Peter''Sj St. Bmnan^ St. Michel, St. Donmn, THERE is a Stone fet up near a Mile to the South of Columbm'^s Church, about 8 foot high, and 2 foot broad : it is calPd by the Na- tives the Bowing-Stone ; for when the Inhabi- tants had the firft fight of the Church, they fet up this Stone, and there bow'd and faid the Lord's Prayer. There was a Buckle of Gold found in Etnort Ground fome twenty years ago, which was about the value of feven Guineas, AS I came from South-Vifl, I perceiv'd about Tixty Horfemen riding along the Sands, dired- ing Weft em Jflands of Scotland. 89 ing their Courfe for the Eaft-Sea ; and being between me and the Sun, they made a great figure on the plain Sands : We difcover'd them to be Natives of South-Fi/I-, for they alighted from their Horfes, and went to gather Cockles in the Sands, which are exceeding plentiful there. This Ifland is the Property of JIU/^ Mackdomld of Moydarf, Head of the Tribe of Mackdoriald, call'd CUnrondds ; one of the chief Families defcended of Mackdo^/aid, who was Lord and King of the Iflands. He and all the Inhabitants are Papifts, except fixty, who are Protertants : the Papifts obferve all the Fefti- vals of their Church, they have a general Ca- valcade on Jli- :Samts Daj, and then they bake St. MichaePs Cake at night, and the Family and Strangers eat it at Supper. FERGVS BEATON hath the following antient Iriflj Alanufcripts in the /r///? Character ; to wit, Avicenna^ Averroesy 'Joannes de VigOj 'Berncirdm Gordonus^ and feveral Volumes of Mj^Qcrates* THE Ifland of B^trrny lies about two Leagues and a half to the South- Weft of the Ifland Sout'h-Viji ; it is five Miles in length, and three in breadth, being in all refpects like the Iflands lying directly North from it. The Eafl: fide is rocky, and the Weft arable Ground, and yields a good Produce of the fame Grain that both Vifis. do : they ufe likewife the fame way po ^ D E s c R I p T I o N 0/ r/;e way for enriching their Land with Sea-ware. There is plenty of Cod and Ling got on the Eaft and South-fides of this Ifland : feverai fmall Ships from Orkney come hither in Sum- in ej', and afterward return loaden with Cod and Ling. THERE isafafe Harbour on the North- Eaft fide of Barra,y^ where there is great plenty of Fifh. THE Rivers on the Eall: fide afford Sal- ttions, fome of which are fpeckled like thefe mention'd in North-Vip:^ but they are more fuc- cefsful here in. catching them. The Natives go with three feverai Herring-Nets, and lay them crofs-ways m the River where the Sal- mon are moft numerous, and betwixt them and the Sea. Thefe Salmon at the fight or fhadow of the People make towards the Sea, and feeling the Net from the Surface to the Ground, jump over the firft, then the fecond, but being weakned, cannot get over the third iSfet, and fo are catch'd. They delight to leap above water, and fwim on the Surface : one of the Natives told me, that he kilPd a Salmon with a Gun, as jumping above wa- ter. THEY inform'd mealfo, that many Barrels of them might be taken in the River above- mcntion'd, if there was any encouragement for. Weflern IJlands of Scotland. 9 i for curing and tranfporting them. There are feveral old Forts to be feen here, in form like thofe in the other Iflands. In the South encj of this Ifland there is an Orchard, which pro- duces Trees, but few of them bear Fruit, in regard of their Nearnefs to the Sea. All forts of Roots and Plants grow plentifully in it : fome years ago Tobacco did grow here, being of all Plants the moft grateful to the Natives, for the Iflanders love it mightily. THE little Ifland Kjfmul lies about a quar- ter of a mile from the South of this Ifle ; it is the Seat of Mackneil of Barray, there is a ftone "Wall round it two ftories high, reaching the Sea, and within the Wall there is an old Tower and an Hall, with other Houfes about it. There is a little Magazine in the Tower, to which no Stranger has accefs. I faw the Of- ficer calPd the Cockman^ and an old Cock he is : when I bid him ferry me over the Water to the Ifland, he told me that he was but an inferior Officer, his bufmefs being to attend in the Tower ; but if (fays he) the Conftable, who then ftood on the Wall, will give you accefs, I'll ferry you over. I defir'd him to procure me the Constable's Permiflion, and I would reward him ; but having waited fome hours for the Conftable's Anfwer, and not receiving any, I was obliged to return without feeing this famous Fort. Mackneil and his Lady being abfentj was the caufe of this difficulty, and of my 92 ^Description of the my not feeing the Place. I was told fome weeks after, that the Conftable was very appre- henfive of fome Defign I might have m viewing the Fort, and thereby to expofe it to the Con- queft of a foreign Power ; of which I fuppos'd there was no great canfe of fear. The Na- tives told me there is a Well in the Village Tangjlill^ the Water of which being boil'd, grows thick like Puddle. There is another Well not far from Tar.gfiill^ which the Inhabi- tants fay in a fertile Year throws up many Grains of Barley in July and Atigtifi, And they fay that the Well of Kjl^^r throws up Em brio's of Cockles, but I could not difcern any in the Rivulet, the Air being at that time foggy. The Church in this Ifland is calPd Kjlharr^ i. e. St. Biirr''s Church. . There is a little Chappel by it, in which Macknetl^ and thofe defcended of his Family, are ufually in- terred. The Natives have St. Barr'^s wooden Image ftanding on the Altar, cover'd with Linen in form of a Shirt : all their greateft AfTe- verations are by this Saint. I came very early in the Morning with an intention to fee this Image, but was difappointed ; for the Natives prevented me, by carrying it away, left I might take occafion to ridicule their Superfti- tion, as fome Proteftants have done formerly : and when I was gone, it was again expos'd on the Altar. They have feveral Traditions con- c, 1 ning this great Saint. There is a Chappel (about half a mile on the South fide of the Hill Weflern Jflands of Scotland. pj Hill near St, Ban's Church) where I had oc» cafion to get an account of a Tradition con- cerning this Saint, which was thus : The Inha- bitants having begun to build the Church, which they dedicated to him, they laid this Wooden Image xvithin it, but it was invifiblj tranfforted (as they fay) to the Place where the Church now Jlands, and found there every morning. This miraculous Conveyance is the . Reafon they give for defifting to work where they firft began. I told my Informer that this ex- traordinary Motive was fufficient to deter- mine the Cafe, if true, but ask'd his Pardon to diffent from him, for I had not Faith enough to believe this Miracle ; at which he was furprizM, telling me in the mean time, that this Tradition hath been faithfully con- vey'd by the Priefts and Natives fuccelTively to this day. The6V^^/;^r;? Iflandsare, (i.)ik/a/- doniflj, about a Mile in Circumference ; it is high in the middle, cover'd over with Heath and Grafs, and is the only Foreft here for maintaining the Deer, being commonly a- bout feventy or eighty in number. (2.) The Ifland Sandreray lies Southerly of Barray, from which it is feparated by a narrow Chan- nel, and is three Miles in Circumference, having a Mountain in the middle ; it is de- fign'd for Pafturage and Cultivation. On the South fide there is an Harbour conve- nient for fmall VeiTels, that come yearly here to fifli for ^od and Ling, which abound on 94 ^ Descrivtios of the on the Coaft of this Ifland. (5.) The Ifland Smdreray^ two Miles in Circumference, is fruitful in Corn and Grafs, and feparatcd by a narrow Channel from Fatter fay. (4.) To the South of thefe lies the Ifland Bernera, about two Miles in Circumference ; it ex- cels other Iflands of the fame Extent for Cultivation and Fifhing. The Natives ne- ver go a fifhing while Mackneil or his Stew- ard is in the Ifland, lefl: feeing their plenty of Fifh, perhaps they might take occafion to raife their Rents. There is an old Fort in this Ifland, having a Vacuity round the Walls, divided in little Apartments. The Natives endure a great Fatigue in manuring their Ground with Sea-ware, which they car- ry in Ropes upon their Backs over high Rocks. They likewife fafl:en a Cow to a Stake, and fpread a quantity of Sand on the Ground, upon which the Cow's Dung falls, and this they mingle together, and lay it on the ara- ble Land. They take great Numbers of Sea-Fowls from the adjacent Rocks, and fait them with the Afhes of burnt Sea- ware in Cows Hides, which preferves them from Pu- trefaftion. THERE is a fort of Stone in this Ifland, with which the Natives frequently rub their Breafl:s by way of prevention, and fay it is a good Prefervative for Health. This is all the Medicine they ufe ; Providence is very fa- vourable Weflern IJlands of Scotland. pj vourable to them, in granting them a good State of Health, fince they have no Phylxcian among them. THE Inhabitants are very hofpitable, and have a Cuftom, that when any Stran- gers from the Northern Iflands refort thither, the Natives, immediately after their Land- ing, oblige them to eat, even tho they fliould have liberally eat and drunk but an Hour before their Landing there. And this Meal they call Bieyta'v ; i. e. Ocean Meat ; for they prefume that the fiiarp Air of the Ocean, which indeed furrounds them, mufl needs give them a good Appetite. And what- ever Number of Strangers come there, . or of whatfoever Quality or Sex, they are re- gularly lodg'd according to antient Cuftom, that is, one only in a Family ; by which Cuftom a Man cannot lodg with his own Wife, while in this Ifland. Mr. John Camp- hell, the prefent Minifter of Harries, told me, that his Father being then Parfon of Harries^ and Minifter of Barray (for the Natives at that time were Proteftants) carry'd his Wife along with him, and refided in this Ifland for fome time, and they difpos'd of him, his Wife and Servants in manner above-mention'd : and fup- pofe Mackmil of Barray and his Lady fhould go thither, he would be oblig'd to comply with this antient Cuftom. THERE ^6 ^Description of the THERE is a large Root grows among the Rocks of this Ifland lately difcover'd, the Na- tives call it Curmn-Petris^ of a whitifh Colour, and upwards of two foot in length, where the Ground is deep, and in Shape and Size like a large Carrot ; where the Ground is not fo deep, it grows much thicker, but fliorter ; the top of it is like that of a Carrot, THE Rock Linmull^ about half a Mile in Circu-mference, is indifferently high, and al- mofl: inacceffible, except in one Place, and that is by climbing, which is very difficult. This Rock abounds with Sea-Fowls that build and hatch here in Summer j fuch as the Guillemot, Coulter-neb^ Puffin, 8cc. The chief Climber is commonly calPd Gingich, and this Name imports a big Man having Strength and Cou- rage proportionable. When they approach the Rock with the Boat, Mr. Gingtch jumps out firft upon a Stone on the Rock-fide, and then, by the affiftance of a Rope of Horfe-hair, he draws his. Fellows out of the Boat upon this high Rock, and draws the reil up after him with the Rope, till they all arrive at the Top, where they purchafe a confiderable Quantity of Fowls and Eggs. Upon their return to the Boat, this Gingich runs a great hazard, by jumping tirft into the Boat again, where the violent Sea continually rages ; having but a few Fowls more than his Fellows, befides Wejicrn JJlands of :3icotland. ^^ a greater Efteem to compenfate his Courage- When a Tenant's Wife in this or the adjacent Iflands dies, he then addreffes himfelf to Mackned of Burrayy reprefenting his Lofs, and at the fame time deili-es that he would be pleas'd to recommend a Wife to him, with-* out which he cannot manage his Affairs, nor beget Followers to Mackneil, which would prove a publick Lofs to him. Upon this Re- prefentation, Macknetl finds out a futable Match for him ; and the Woman's Name being told him, immediately he goes to her, carrying with him a Bottle of ftrong Waters for their Enter- tainment at Marriage, which is then confum- mated. WHEN a Tenant dies, the Widow ad- clrefTeth her felf to Mackmil in the fame man- ner, who likewife provides her with a Huf- band, and they are marry'd without any fur- ther Courtfliip. There is in this Ifland an Altar dedicated to St. Chrifiopher, at which the Natives perform their Devotion. There is a Stone fet up here, about {Qven foot high ; and when the Inhabitants come near it, they take a religious Turn round it. I F a Tenant chance to lofe his Milk-Cows by the Severity of the Seafon, or any other Misfortune ; in this Cafe iVhckneil of Barray fup- plies him with the hke Number that he loll. €i WHEN . 98 ^Description of the WHEN any of thefe Tenants are fo far advanc'd in Years that they are uncapable to till the Ground, Mackneil takes fuch old Men into his own Family, and maintains them all their Life after. The Natives obferve, that if fix Sheep are put a grazing in the little Ifland Fd- bcty^ five of them ftill appear far, but the fixth a poor Skeleton; but any Number in this Ifland not exceeding five are always very fat. There is a little Ifland not far from this, call'd Micklay, of the fame Extent as Pahbay, and hath the fame way of feeding of Sheep. Thefe lit- tle Iflands afford excellent Hawks. THE Ifles above-mention'd, lying near to the South of Barray, are commonly call'd the Bijhofs I/les^ becaufe they are held of the Bi- fhop. Some Ifles \k on the Eafl and North of Barrajy as Fiaray, Mellijay^ Buy a Major and Mi- 7Jor^ Lingayy Fuda : they afford Pafturage, and are commodious for Fifliing ; and the latter be- ing about two Miles in Circumference, is fer- tile in Corn and Grafs. There is a good an- choring Place next to the Ifle on the North-Eaji Side. THE Steward of the Leffer and Southern Iflands is reckoned a Great Man here, in re- gard of the Perquifites due to him ; fuch as a particular fliare of all the Lands, Corn, But- ter, Cheefe, Fifh, d^c. which thefe Iflands pro- duce : Wejlern Iflands of Scotland. pp duce : the Meafure of Barley paid him by each Family yearly, isanOmer, as they call it, con- taining about two Pecks* THERE is an inferior Officer, who alfo hath a right to a fhare of all the fame Products* Next to thefe come in courfe thole of the loweft Pofts, fijch as the Cockman and Porter^ each of whom hath his refpedive Due, which is pun£tuaily paid. MACKNEIL of Barray and all his Fol- lowers are Roman Catholicks, one only ex- cepted, viz. Murdock Mackneil ; and it may perhaps be thought no Tmall Virtue in him to adhere to the Proteftant Communion, confider- ing the Difiid vantages he labours under by the want of his Chief's Favour, which is much lef- fen'd, for being a Heretick, as they call him. All the Inhabitants obferve the Anniverfary of Sti Barr^ being the 2ith.o? September ; it isper- form'd riding on Horfeback, and the Solemni- ty is concluded by three Turns round St. Barr\ Church. This brings into my Mind a Story which was told me concerning a foreign Prierf, and the Entertainment he met with after his Arrival there fome Years ago, as follows : This Prieft happened to land here upon the very Day, and at the particular Hour of this So- lemnity, which was the more acceptabl^to the Inhabitants, who then defir'd him to preach a Commemoration- Sermon to the Honour of G 2 their 1 oo ^Description of the their Patron St. Barr^ according to the antient Cuftom of the Place. At this the Prieft was furpriz'd, he never having heard of St. Barr be- fore that Day ; and therefore knowing nothing of his Virtues, could fay nothing concerning him : but told them, that if a Sermon to the Honour of St. Paul or St. Peter could pleafe them, they might have it inftantly. This An- fwer of his was fo difagreeable to them, that they plainly told him he could be no true Prieft, if he had not heard of St. Barr, for the Pope himfelf had heard of him ; but this would not perfuade the Prieft, fo that they parted much diilatisfy'd with one another. They have like- wife a general Cavalcade on St. Michaels Day in Kjlbar Village, and do then alfo take a Turn round their Church. Every Family, as foon as the Solemnity is ended, is accuftomM to bake St. Mkhaeih Cake, as above defcrib'd ; and all Strangers, together with thofe of the Fa- mily, muft eat the Bread that Night. THIS I{land,and the ad jacent lefler Iflands, belong in property to Mackneil, being the thirty fourth of that Name by Lineal Defcent that has polfefs'd this Ifland, if the prefent Genedogers may be credited. He holds his Lands in Vaf- Talage of Sir Donald Macdondd of SUte,^ .^to whom he pays 40 /. fer ann^. and a 'Hawk, if required* and is oblig'd to furnlfh him a cer- tain Number of Men upon extraordinary Oc- cafions. Wefleni Ijlands of Scotland. i o i r fht Jntient and Modern Cufloms of the Inha- hitants of the Wejlcni Iflands of Scotland. EVERY Heir, or young Chieftain of a Tribe, was obligVI in Honour to give a publick Specimen of his Valour, before he was own'd and declared Governor or Leader of his People, who obey'd and follow'd him upon all Occafions. THIS Chieftain was ufually attended with a Retinue of young Men of Quality, who had not beforehand given any Proof of their Valour, and were ambitious of fuch an Opportunity to fignalize themfelves. I T was ufual for the Captain to lead them, to make a defperate Incurfion upon fome Neigh- bour or other that they were m Feud with ; and they were oblig'd to bring by open force the Cattel they found in the Lands they attacked, or to die in the Attempt. AFTER the Performance of this Atchieve- ment, the young Chieftain was ever after re- puted valiant and worthy of Government, and fuch as were of his Retinue acquired the hke Reputation. This Cuftom being reciprocally us'd among them, was not reputed Robbe- G I ryj xQi ^Description of the ry, for the Damage which one Tribe fuftaln'd by this Effay of the Chieftain of another, was repair'd when their Chieftain came in his turn to make his Specimen : but I have not heard an Inftance of this Pradtice for thefe fix- ty Years paft. THE FormaUties obferv'd at the Entrance of thefe Chieftains upon the Government of their Clans, were as follow : A HEAP of Stones was ereiEled in form of a Pyramid, on the top of which the young • Chieftain was plac'd, his Friends and Followers ftanding in a Circle round about him, his Ele- vation fignifying his Authority over them, and their ftanding below their Subjection to him. One of his principal Friends delivered into his Hands the Sword wore by his Father, and there was a white Rod deliver'd to him like- wife at the fame time* IMMEDIATELY after the Chief Druid (or Orator) ftood clofe to the Pyramid, and pronounc'd a Rhetorical Panegyrick, fetting forth the antient Pedegree, Valour, and Li- berality of the Family, as Incentives to the young Chieftain, and fit for his imita- tion. ^ I T was their Cudom, when any Chieftain march'd upon a military Expedition, to draw fome Wejleni JJlands of Scotland. 105 fome Blood from the firft Animal that chanc'd to meet them upon the Enemy's Ground, and thereafter to fprinkle fome of it upon their Colours. This they reckoned as a good Omea of future SuGcefs. THEY had their fix'd Officers, who were ready to attend them upon all Occafions, whe- ther Military or Civil. Some Families conti- nue them from Father to Son, particularly Sir Dondd Macdo^ald has his principal Stan- dard-Bearer and Qiiarter-mafter. The latter has a right to all the Hides of Cows kill'd up- on any of the Occafions mention'd above ; and this I have ken exa8:ed punctually, tho the Officer had no Charter for the fame, but only Cuftom. THEY had a conftant Centinel on the top of their Houfes call'd Gockmw, or, in the E^g- lijh Tongue, Cockman ; who was oblig'd to watch Day and Night, and at the approach of any body, to ask, Who comes there f This Of- ficer is continu'd in Barray (till, and has the Per- quifites due to his Place paid him duly at two Terms in the Year. THERE was a competent number of young Gentlemen caird L/Yck^W^, ov Guard de Corps^ who always attended the Chieftain at Home and Abroad. They were well train'd in managing the Sword and Target, in Wreft- G 4 ling, I ©4 ^Description of the ling, Swimming, Jumping, Dancing, Shoot- ing with Bows and Arrows, and were ftout Seamen, EVERY Chieftain had a bold Armour- Bearer, whofe Bufmefs was always to attend the Perfon of his Mafter night and day to prevent any Surprize, and this Man was call'd GallogUch ; he had likewife a double Portion of Meat affign'd him at every Meal. The Mea- fure of Meat ufually given him, is call'd to this day Bteyfir^ that is, a Man's Portion; meaning thereby an extraordinary Man, whofe Strength and Courage diftinguilli'd him from |;he common fort. BEFORE they engag'd the Enemy in Bat- tle, the Chief Druid harangu'd the Army to excite their Courage. He was plac'd on an Eminence, from whence he addrefs'd himfelf to all of them ftanding about him, putting them in mind of what great things were per- formed by the Valour of their Anceftors, rais'd their Hopes with the noble Rewards of Honour andVidory, and difpell'd their Fears by all the Topicks that natural Courage could fuggeft. After this Harangue, the Ar- my gave a general Shout, and then charg'd the Enemy ftoutly. This in the antient Lan- guage Was caird Brofnichiy Kjh, i e. an In- centive to War. This Cuftom of fhouting aloud is beliey'd to have taken its Rife from an Wejlent I [lands of Scotland. loj anlnftin*^ of Nature, it being attributed to moft N'ations that have been of a martial Ge- nius : As by Homer to the TrojiWsf by Tacitus to the Ger mam, by Livj to the Gauls. Every great Family in the Ifles had a Chief Druid, vi^ho foretold future Events, and decided all Caufes Civil and Ecclefiaftical. It is reported of them that they wrought in the Night-time, and ref- ted all Day. Cdfar fays they worfhipp'd a Dei- ty under the name of Taramis^ or Tarm^ which m Wel[h fignifies Thunder ; and in the antient Language of the Highlanders, Torin fignifies Thunder alfo. ANOTHER God of the Britons was E^- lus, or Belinm^ which feems to have been the AffyrUn God Bel, or Belm \ and probably from this Pagan Deity comes the Scots Term of Beltin, the Day of May, having its firfl: Rife from the Cufl:om praftis'd by the Druids in the Ifles, of extinguifhing all the Fires in the Parifli until the Tythes were paid ; and upon payment of them, the Fires were kindled in each Family, and never till then. In thofe days Malefaftors were burnt between two Fires ; hence when they would exprefs a Man to be in a great ftrait, they fay, he U between two Tires of Bel, which in their Lan- guage they exprefs thus, Tdir da. hin Veaul or Bel. Some objefl: that the Druids could not be in the Ifles, becaufe no Oaks grow there. To which I anfwer, That in thofe days lo6 1// D E S C R I P T I O N 0/ r& days Oaks did grow there, and to this day there be Oaks growing in fome of them, par- ticularly in Sleat,, the mo{]: Southern part of .the Ifle of Skie. The Houfes named after thofe Druids fhall be defcrib'd elfewhere. THE manner of Drinking us'd by the chief Men of the iHes, is call'd 'm their Language Sire Ah y i. e. a Rouyid ; for the Company fat in a Circle, the Cup-Bearer filPd the Drink round to them, and all was drank out, whatever the Liquor was, whether ftrong or weak ; they continu'd drinking fometimes twenty four, fometimes forty eight Hours : It was reckon'd a piece of Manhood to drink until they became drunk, and there were two Men, with a Bar- row attending punctually on fuch Occafions. They llrood at the Door until fome became drunk, and they carry'd them upon the Bar- row to Bed, and returned again to' their Pofb as long as any continued frefli, and fo carry'd off the whole Company one by one as they be- came drunk. Several of my Acquaintance have been WitnefTes to this Cuftom of Drink- ing, but it is now abolifh'd. AMONG Perfons of Diftin£lion it was reckon'd an Affront put upon any Company to broach a Piece of Wine, Ale, or Jquavit^y and not to fee it all drank out at one Meeting. If any Man chance to go out from the Com- pany, tho but for a few Minutes, he is ob- lig'd Weflcrn I/lands of Scotland. 1 07 lig'd upon his Return, and before he take his Seat, to make an Apology for his Abfence in Rhyme ; which if he cannot perform, he is liable to fuch a ll:are of the Reckoning as the Company thinks fit to impofe : which Cuftom obtains in many places ftill, and is calPd Bemchiy Bard, which in their Language fig- nifies the Poet's congratulating the Com- pany. IT hath been an antient Cuftom in thefe Ifles, and ftill continues, when any number of Men retire into a Houfe, either to dif- courfe of ferious Bufinefs, or to pafs fome time in drinking ; upon thefe occafions the Door of the Houfe ftands open, and a Rod is put crofs the fame, which is under ftood to be a fign to all Perfons without diftin£lion not to approach : and if any fhould be fo rude as to take up this Rod, and come in uncalPd, he is fure to be no welcome Gueft ; for this is accounted fuch an Affront to the Company, that they are bound in honour to refent .it ; and the Perfon offending may come to have his Head broken, if he do not meet with a harfher Reception. THE Chieftain is ufually attended with a numerous Retinue when he goes a hunting the Deer, this being his firit Specimen of manly Exercife. Ail his Clothes, Arms, and Hunting-Equipage are, upon his Return from the I o8 v/^ D E S C R I P T I O N of the the Hills, given to the Forefter, according to Cuftom. EVERY Family had commonly two Stew- ards, which in their Language were calPd Mar/fehall Taeh : the firft of thefe ferv'd ai- ways at home, and was oblig'd to be well vers'd in the Pedegree of alf the Tribes in the Ifles, and in the Highlands of Scotlmd ; for it was his Province to affign every Man at Ta- ble his Seat according to his Quality ; and this was done without one word fpeaking, only by drawing a Score with a white Rod which this Marifih/til had in his hand, before the Perfon who was bid by him to fit down : and this was necefTary to prevent Diforder and Conten- tion ; and tho the Marifcha/l might fometimes be miftaken, the Mafter of the Family in- curr'd no Cenfure by fuch an Efcape : but this Cuftom has been laid afide of late. They had alfo Cup-bearers, who always filPd and carry'd the Cup round the Company, and he himfelf drank off the firft Draught. They had likewife Purfe-mafters, who kept their Mony. Both thefe Officers had an hereditary Right to their Office in Writing; and each of them had a Town and Land for his Service : fome of thofe Rights I have feen feirly written on good Parchment. BESIDES the ordinary Rent paid by the Tenant to his Mafter, if a Cow brought forth Wefiern IJlands of Scotland. t 09 forth two Calves at a time, which indeed is extraordinary, or an Ewe two Lambs, which is frequent, the Tenant paid to the Mafter one of the Calves or Lambs ; and the Mafter on his part was oblig'd, if any of his Tenants Wives bore Twins, to take one of them, and breed him in his own Family. I have known a Gentleman, who had fixteen of thefe Twins in his Family at a time. THEIR antient Leagues of Friendfhip were ratify'd by drinking a Drop of each o- ther's Blood, which was commonly drawn out of the little Finger. This was religioufly ob- ferv'd as a facred Bond ; and if any Perfon after fuch an Alliance happen'd to violate the fame, he was from that time reputed un- worthy of all honeft Mens Converfation. Before Mony became current, the Chieftains in the Ifles beftow'd the Cow's Head, Feet, and all the Entrails upon their Dependents; fuch as the Phyfician, Orator, Poet, Bard, Muficians, &c. and the fame was divided thus : the Smith had the Head, the Piper had the, &c, IT was an antient Cuftom among the lOanders, to hang a He-Goat to the Boat's Maft, hoping thereby to procure a favourable Wind : but this is not pra&is'd at prefent ; tho I am told it hath been done once by fome of the Vulgar within thefe 1 5 Years laft paft. THEY 1 1 o ^i Description of tk THEY had an unlverfal Cuftom, of pour-* ing a Cow's Milk upon a little Hill, or big Stone, where the Spirit C2i\Vd Br otv^j was be- liev'd to lodg : this Spirit always appear'd in the fliape of a tall Man, having very long brown Hair. There was fcarce any the lealt Village in which this fuperftitious Cuftom did not prevail. I enquir'd the reafon of it from feveral well-meaning Women, who, until of late, had pradfis'd it ; and they told me, that it had been tranfmitted to them by their An- ceftors fuccefsfully, who belie v'd it was at- tended with good Fortune, but the moil: Cre- dulous of the Vulgar had now laid it afide. It was an ordinary thing among the Over-cu- rious to.confult an invifible Oracle, concerning the Fate of Families, and Battles, &c. This was perform'd three different ways ; the firft was by a Company of Men, one of whom be- ing detach'd by Lot, was afterwards carry'd to a River, which was the Boundary between two Villages ; four of the Company laid hold on him, and having fhut his Eyes, they took him by the Legs and Arms, and then tolling him to and again, ftruck his Hips with force againft the Bank. One of them cry'd out, What is it you have got here ? Another an- fwers, A Log of Birch-wood. The other cries again. Let his invifible Friends appear from all quarters, and let them relieve him by giving an Anfwer to our prefent Demands : and in a few Weftern JJlcinis of Scotland. 1 1 1 few Minutes after, a number of little Crea- tures came from the Sea, who anfwer'd the QiieiHon, and difappear'd fuddenly. The Man was then fet at liberty, and they all return'd home, to take their Meafures according to the Prediftion of their falfe Prophets ; but the poor deluded Fools were abufed, for the Anfwer was ftill ambiguous. This was always praftifed in the Night, and may literally be calPd the Works of Darknefs. I HAD an account from the moft intelli- gent and judicious Men in the Ifle of Skie^ that about fixty two Years ago, the Oracle was thus confulted only once, and that was in the Parifh of Kjhnartm^ on the Eaft fide, by a wicked and mifchievous Race of People, who are now extinguifh'd, both Root and Branch. THE fecond way of confulting the Oracle was by a Party of Men, who firft retir'd to folitary Places, remote from any Houfe, and there they fingled out one of their number, and wrapt him in a big Cow's Hide, which they folded about him : his whole Body was co- ve r'd with it except his Head, and fo left in this pofture all night, until his invifible Friends reliev'd him, by giving a proper Anfwer to the Queftion in hand ; which he receiv'd, as he fancy'd, from feveral Perfons that he found a- bout him all that time. His Conforts return'd to Ill ^Description of the to him at Break of Day, and then he commu- nicated his News to them ; which often provr'd fatal to thofe concern'd in fuch, unwarrantable Enquiries. THERE was a third way of confulting, which was a Confirmation of the fecond a- bove-mention'd. The fame Company who put the Man into the Hide, took a live Cat and put him on a Spit ; one of the number was employ'd to turn the Spit, and one of his Con- forts enquir'd of him, What are you doing ? He anfwer'd, I roaft this Cat, until his Friends anfwer the Queftion ; which muft be the fame that was propos'd by the Man fhut up in the Hide. And afterwards a very big Cat comes, attended by a number of lelTer Cats, defiring to relieve the Cat turn'd upon the Spit, and then anfv/ers the Queifion. If this Anfwer prov'd the fame that was given to the Man in the Hide, then it was taken as a Confirmation of the other, which in this cafe was believ'd infallible. Mr. Alexander Cooper^ pfefent Minifter of North-Vijl^ toy me, that one 'John Erach in the Ifle of Lewis affurM him, it was his Fate to have been led by his Curiofity with fome who confulted this Oracle, and that he was a Night within the Hide, as above mention'd • during which time he felt and heard fuch ter- rible things, that he could not exprefs them : the Wejlem IJlands of Scotland. i i > the Impreffion it made on him was fuch as could never go off, and he faid that for a thou- fand Worlds he would never again be con- cern'd in the like performance, for this had dif- order'd him to a high degree. He confefs'd it ingenuoully, and with an Air of great Re- morfe, and feem'd to be very penitent under a jufl: Senfe of fo great a Crime : he declared this about five Years fince, and is ftill living in the Lewis^ for any thing I know. The Inhabitants here did alfo make ufe of a Fire call'd Tm-Eginy i. e, a. forced Fire, or Fire of necellity ; which they ufed as an Antidote againft the Plague Or Murrain in Cattel ; and it was perform'd thus : All the Fires in the Parifh were extin- guifh'd, and then eighty one marry'd Men, be- ing thought the necelTary number for effeding this Defign, took two great Planks of Wood, and nine of 'em were employed by turns, who by their repeated Efforts rubb'd one of the Planks againft the other until the Heat thereof produced Fire ; and from this forc'd Fire each Family is fupply'd with new Fire, which is no fooner kindled, than a Pot full of Water is quickly fet on it, and afterwards fprinkled upon the People infe8:ed with the Plague, or upon the Cattle that have the Murrain. And this they all fay they find fuccefsful by Experience : it was praftis'd in the main Land, oppofite to the South of 6kie, within thefe thirty Years. H THEY 114 ^Description of the THEY preferve their Boundaries from be- ing liable to any Debates by their SuccefTors, thus: They lay a quantity of the Afhes of burnt Wood in the Ground, and put big Stones above the fame ; and for conveying the knowledg of this to Pofterity, they carry fome Boys from both Villages next the Boundary, and there whip 'em foundly, which they will be fure to remember, and tell it to their Children. A Debate having rifen betwixt the Villages of Ofe and Grobm in 6'^'/^, they found Afhes as above mention'd under a Stone, which de- cided the Controverfy. It was an antient Cus- tom in the Iflands, that a Man fhould take a Maid to his Wife, and keep her the fpace of a Year without marrying her ; and if fhe pleafed him all the while, he marry'd her at tlie end of the Year, and legitimated thefe Children : but if he did not love her, he re- turn'd her to her Parents, and her Portion alfo ; and if there happened to be any Children, they were kept by the Father : but this unreafonable Cuftom was long ago brought in difufe. IT is common in thefe Iflands, when a Te- nant dies, for the Mafter to have his choice of all the Horfes which belong'd to the Deceased j and this was call'd the Eachfuin Horizeilda^ i. e. a Lord's Gift : for the firfl: ufe of it was from a Gift of a Horfe granted by all the Sub- jeds in Scotland for relieving King from Weflern Iflands of Scotland. 1 1 j from his Imprifonment in England, There was another Duty payable by all the Tenaxnts to their Chief, tho they did not live upon his Lands ; and this is call'd Calpkh : there was a ftanding Lavv^ for it alfo, calPd Calpich-L^w ; and I am informed that this is exacted by fome in the main Land to this day. WOMEN were antiently deny'd the ufe of Writing in the Iflands, to prevent Love-In- trigues : their Parents believ'd, that Nature was too skilful in that matter, and needed noc the help of Education ; and therefore that Writing would be of dangerous confequence to the weaker Sex. THE Orators, in then* Language caWd If- Dane, were in high efteem both in thefe Iflands and the Continent; until within thefe forty Years, they fat always among the Nobles and Chiefs of Families in the Streah or Circle. Their Houfes and little Villages were Sanctuaries, as well as Churches, and they took place before Do6lors of Phyfick. The Orators, arc-^r the Druids were extin£l, were brought in to pre- ferve the Genealogy of Families, and to re- peat the fame at every Succe^ioa of a Chief; and upon the occafion of Marriages and Births, they made EpL'halamiums and Par'/efryricks^which the Poet or Bard pronounc'd. The Orators by the force of their Eloquence had a powerful Afcendant over the greatefl: Men in their H 2 tirae^ \i6 ^Desckiption of tfce time ; for if any Orator did but ask the Ha- bit, Arms, Horfe, or any other thing belong- ing to the greateft Man in thefe Iflands, it was readily granted them, fometimes out of re- fpeO:, and fometimes for fear of being ex- claim'd againft by a Satire, which in thofe days was reckon'd a great diflionour : but thefe Gentlemen becoming infolent, loft ever fince both the Profit and Efteem which was formerly due to their Charader ; for neither their Panegyricks nor Satires are regarded to what they have been, and they are now al- lowed but a fmall Salary. I muft not omit to relate their way of Study, which is very Angu- lar : They fhut their Doors and Windows for a day's time, and lie on their backs, with a Stone upon their Belly, and Plads about their Heads, and their Eyes being cover'd, they pump their Brains for Rhetorical Encomium or Panegy- rick ; and indeed they furnifh fuch a Stile from this dark Cell, as is underftood by very few : and if they purchafe a couple of Horfes as the Reward of their Meditation, they think they have done a great matter. The Poet, or Bard, had a Title to the Bridegroom's upper Garb, that is, the Piad and Bonnet ; but now he is fatisfy'd with what the Bridegroom pleafes to give him on iuch occafions. THERE was an antient Cuftom in the Ifland of Lewis, to make a fiery Circle about tlis Houfes, Corn, Cattle, d^'c belonging to each Weftem IJlands of Scotland. i i 7 each particular Family : A Man carry'd Fire in his right hand, and went round, and it was caird Defil, from the right Hand, which in the antient Language is call'd Defs. An In- ftance of this Round was performed in the Village Shadir in Lervis^ about fixteen years ago (as I was told) but it proved fatal to the Praclifer, call'd MAc-Callum ; for after he had carefully perform'd this Round, that very Night following he and his Family were fadly furpriz'd, and all his Houfes, Corn, Cattle, &c, were confumed with Fire. This fuper- ftitious Cuftom is quite abolifh'd now, for there has not been above this one Inftance of it in forty Years paft. THERE is another way of the !>#/, or carrying Fire round about Women before they are churched, after Child-bearing ; and it is ufed likewife about Children until they be chriften'd : both which are perform'd in the Morning and at Night. This is only prac- tifed now by fome of the antient Midwives : I enquired their Reafons for this Cuftom, which I told them was altogether unlawful ; this difoblig'd them mightily, infomuch that they would give me no fatisfa£lion. But others, that were of a more agreeable Temper, told me the Fire-round was an effeftual means to preferve both the Mother and the Infant from the power of evil Spirits, who are ready at fuch times to do mifchief, and fometimes H I carry 1 1 8 A De s c r I p t 1 o n o/* tk carry away the Infant ; and when they get them once in their poffeflion, return them poor meagre Skeletons : and thefe Infants are iaid to have voracious Appetites, conftantly craving for Meat. In this cafe it was ufual with thofe who believ'd that their Children were thus taken away, to dig a Grave in the Fields upon Quarter-Day, and there to lay the Fairy Skeleton till next Morning ; at which time the Parents went to the place, where they doubted not to find their own Child inftead of this Skeleton. Some of the poorer fort of People in thefe Iflands retain the Cuftom of performing thefe Rounds Sun- ways, about the Perlbns of their Benefaclors three times, when they blefs them, and wifh good fuccefs to all their Enterprizes, Some are very careful, when they fet out to Sea, that the Boat be firft row'd about Sun-ways ; and if this be neglected, they are afraid their Voyage may prove unfortunate. I had this Ceremony paid me (when in the Ifland of Ha) by a poor Woman, after I had given her an Alms : I defired her to let alone that Compliment, for I did not care for it ; but fhe infilled to make thefe three ordinary Turns, and then pray'd that God and Miic- Charmfgy the Patron Saint of that Ifland, might blefs and profper me in all my Defigns and Affairs. Weft em Jftands of Scotland. 1 1 p I ATTEMPTED twice to go from lU to CoUonfay^ and at both times they row'd about tb^ Boat Sun-ways, tho I forbid them to do it ; anci by a contrary Wind the Boat and thofe in it were forcM back. I took Boat again a tliird time from Jar^ to Collonfry^ and at the fame time forbid them to row about their Boat, which they obey'd, and then we landed fafely at Collonfay^ without any ill Adventure ; which fome of the Crew did not believe poflible, for want of the Round : but this one Inftance hath convinc'd them of the Vanity of this fuper- ffitious Cergnony. Another antient Cuftom obferv'd on the fecond of February, which the Papifts there yet retain, is this : The Miftrefs and Servants of each Family take a Sheaf of Oats, and drefs it up in Womens Apparel, put it in a large Basket, and lay a wooden Club by it, and this they call Briids-kd -jSind then the Miftrefs and Servants cry three times, Briid is come, Briid is welcome. This they do juft before going to bed, and when they rife in the morning they look among the Afhes, expelling to fee the Impreflion of Briid^s Club there ; which if they do, they reckon it a true Prefage of a good Crop, and profperous Year, and the contrary they tike as an ill Omen. IT has been an antient Cuftom amongfl: the Natives, and now only ufed by fome old H 4 ?^9E1^5 no ^ Description 0/ tk » People, to fwear by their Chief or Laird's Hand. WHEN a Debate arifes between two Per- fons, if one of them affert the matter by your Father's Hand, they reckon it a great Indigni- ty ; but if they go a degree higher, and out of fpite fay, by your Father and Grandfather's Hand, the next Word is commonly accom- pany'd with a Blow. IT is a receiv'd Opinion in thefe Iflands, as well as in the neighbouring part of the main Land, That Women by a Charm, or fome other fecret way, are able to convey the In- creafe of their Neighbours Cows Milk to their own ufe ; and that the Milk fo charm'd, doth not produce the ordinary quantity of Butter ; and the Curds made of that Milk are fo tough, that it cannot be made fo firm as other Cheefe, and is alfo much lighter in weight. The Butter fo taken away, and join'd to the Char- mer's Butter, is evidently difcernible by a Mark of Separation, viz. the Diverfity of Co- lours ; that which is charm'd being ifill paler than that part of the Butter which hath not been charm'd : and if Butter having thefe Marks be found with a fufpeded Woman, ibe is prefently faid to be guilty. Their ufual way pf recovering this Lofs, is to take a little of the Rennet from all the fufpe8:ed Perfons, and to put it in an Egg-fhell full of Milk ; and when WeJU^nr-Jftands of Scotland. i 2 1 when tHat from the Charmer is mingled with it, it prefently curdles, and not before. THIS was aiTerted to me by the generality of the moft Judicious People in thefe Iflands ; feme of them having, as they told me, come to the knowledg of it to their coft. Some Women make ufe of the Root of Groundfel as an Amulet againft fuch Charms, by putting it among their Cream. BOTH Men and Women in thofe Iflands, and in the neighbouring main Land, alErm that thelncreafe of Milk is likewife taken away by Trouts ; if it happen that the Difhes or Pales wherein the Milk is kept, be wafli'd in the Rivulets where Trouts are. And the way to recover this Damage, is by taking a live Trout, and pouring Milk into its mouth ; which they fay doth prefently curdle, if it was taken away by Trouts, but otherwife they fay it is not. THEY affirm likewife, that fome Women have an Art to take away the Milk of Nurfes. I SAW four Women, whofe Milk were try'd, that one might be chofen for a Nurfe ; and the Woman pitch'd upon, was after three days Suckling depriv'd of her Milk : where- upon fhe was fent away, and another put in her T 1 2 ^ D E S C R I P T I O N 0/ ffo her place ; and on the third day after, (lie that was .firfl: chofen recover'd her Milk again. This was concluded to be the effeft of Witch- craft by fome of her Neighbours. THEY alfofay, that fome have an Art of taking away the Increafe of Malt, and that the Drink made of this Malt hath neither Life nor good Tafte in it ; and, on the contra- ry, the Charmer hath very good Ale all this time. A Gentleman of my acquaintance, for the fpace of a Year, could not have a drop of good Ale in his Houfe ; and having complain'd of it to all that conversed with him, he was at laft advifed to get fome Yeaft from every Alehoufe in the Parifh : and having got a lit- tle from one particular Man, he put it among his Wort, which became as good Ale as could be drank, and fo defeated the Charm. After which, the Gentleman in whofe Land this Man lived, banifh'd him thirty fix. miles from thence. THEY fay there be Women who have an Art of taking a Moat out of one's Eye, tho at fome miles diftance from the Party griev'd ; and this is the only Charm thefe Women will avouch themfelves to underiland, as fome of phem told me, and feveral of thefe Men, out of whofe Eyes Moats were then taken, confirm'd the Truth of it to me. ALL Wejlern I/lands of Scotland. 1 2 j ALL thefe Iflanders, and feveral thoufands on the neighbouring Continent, are of opinion, that feme particular Perfons have an evil Eye, which afFeds Children and Cattle : this, they fay, occafions frequent Mifchances, and fome- times Death. I could name fome who are be- liev'd to have this unhappy Faculty, tho at the fame time void of any ill Defign. This hath been an antient Opinion, as appears from that of the Poet : Nefcio quis teneros oculm mihi faffinAt Jgnos, Courts 124 ^Description of the Courts of Judicatory, AT the firft Plantation of thefe Ifles, all matters were managM by the fole Au- thority of the Heads of Tribes, call'd in the Irijhy Thiarm^ which was the fame with lyrAn- nm^ and now it fignifies Lord or Chief; there being no Standard of Equity or Juftice, but what flow'd from them. And when their Numbers increas'd, they erefted Courts call'd Moeie,, and in the Eftgltflj^ Baron-Courts. THE Proprietor has the Nomination of the Members of this Court ; he himfelf is Pre- fident of it, and in his abfence his Bayliff: the Minifter of the Pariflh is always a Member of it. There are no Attorneys to plead the Caufe of either Party, for both Men and Wo- men reprefent their refpeftive Caufes ; and there is always a fpeedy Decifion, if the Par- ties have their WitneiTes prefent, &c. THERE is a peremptory Sentence pafles in Court for ready Payment, and if the Party againft whom Judgment is given prove re- fradory, the other may fend the common Of- ficer, who has power to diftrain, and at the fame time to exaft a Fine of 20 /. Scots, for the ufe of the Proprietor, and about two Marks for himfelf. THE Wefteni JfUnds of Scotland. i 2 5 THE Heads of Tribes had their OfFenfive and Defenfive Leagues, calFd Bonds of Ma/i- dratey and Munrent in the Lowlands ; by which each Party was oblig'd to afTill one another upon all extraordinary Emergencies. And tho the Differences between thofe Chieftans in- volv'd feveral Confederates in a Civil War, yet they oblig'd themfelves by the Bond men- tioned above to continue ftedfaft in their Duty to their Sovereign. WHEN the Proprietor gives a Farm to his Tenant, whether for one or more Years, it is cuftomary to give the Tenant a Stick of Wood, and Tome Straw in his hand : this is immediate- ly returned by the Tenant again to his Mafter, and then both Parties are as much oblig'd to perform their refpedive Conditions, as if they had fign'd a Leafe, or any other Deed. Church^ 1 2(5 ^ D E S C R I P T I O N o/ f/;^ Church'VtJciplhie. EVERY PariQi in the Weftern iHes has a Church-Judicature, call'd the Conftftory, or Kjrk'Seffion^ where the Minifter prefides, and a competent number of Laymen, calPd Elders, meet with him. They take cogni- zance of Scandals, cenfure faulty Perfons, and with that ftri^tnefs, as to give an Oath to thofe who are rufpe8:ed of Adultery or Forni- cation ; for which they are to be proceeded againft according to the Cuftom of the Coun- try. They meet after Divine Service; the chief Heretor of the Parifli is prefent, to con- cur with them, and enforce their A6ls by his Authority, which is irrefiftible within the bounds of his Jurifdidion. Wejlern Iflands of Scotland, i 27 ^ Form of grayer ufed hy ynany of the IJlamlcrs at Sea^ after the Satis are hoiflcd. [This Form is contain'd in the Iri/b Liturgy compos'd by Mr. Joh/t Kfrfwell, after- wards Bifhop of Jrg^le ; printed in the Year 1566, and dedicated to the Earl of Argjle. I have fet down the Original, for the fatisfadion of fuch Readers as under- ftand it.] M Odh Bendaighto luingo ag dul dionfa. idhe mfairrge, J^ah Aon da. chaeh Marfo. Da, An Stioradoir. Beanighidh Mr Long. Fregra Chaich. Go wbeandaighe Dia Athair i. An Stioradoir. Beanoddhidh ar Long, "♦-egra. Go mbeandaighe Joja '. hCd i. An Stioradoir.- Beanoaidhidh ar Long. Fregra. Go mbeandaighe an Shiorad Naomh u An Stioradoir. Cred if egatl Libh is Dhia Atbair libh, Fregra. 1 2 S ^Description of the Fregra. Ni heagal en ni. An Stioradoir. Qred. is egil libh is Dia, an Mac Libh. Fregra. Ni heagal en ni. An Stioradoir. Qred, is eagail Libh is Dia an Jbiorod Naomh libh, Fregra. , Ni heagal en ni. An Stioradoir. T>ia Athair Vile Chumhachtach ar Gradh a Mbic yofa Criofd, le Comh jhurtach an Spioraid Naomh^ An taon Dhia tug Cland Ifrael trid an Muir raaigh go mirbhuileach, agas tug 'Jonas ad fir ambroind an Mhil mhoie, ^ tug PohEafpol^ agas a long gon, foirind o an fadh iomarcach, agas o dheartan dominde dar fa oradhne, agas dar Jenadh^ agas dar mbeandrghadh^ agas dar m breith le fen^ agas le foinindy agas le folas do chum chnain, agas chalaidh doreir a theile diadha fein. Ar ni iarrmoid air ag radha. Ar Nathairne at a ar Neamh^ 8tc* Abradh Cach Vile. Bionh Amhlvidh, The Wejienj IJlands of Scotland. i 2p The Manner of Blefling the Ship, when they put to Sea. The Steerf-man fays, ET m blefs our Ship. The Anfwer by all the Crew ; God the Father blefs her, Steerf-man. Let us blefs our Ship. Anfwer. y^y^tf Chrift blefs her. Steerfman. Let us blefs our Ship. Anfwer. The Holy Ghoft blefi her, Steerf-man. What do you fear^ fince God the lather is with you? Anfwer. We do not fear any thing. Steerf-man. What do you fear., fmce God the So» is with you ? Anfwer. M^e do not fear any thing. Steerf-man. What are you afraid of fmce God the Holy Ghofl is with you ? Anfwer. We do not fear any thing. I Steerf- 130 J DeS CRIP TI O N- Y ffe Steerf-man. Goi i%s Father Almighty^ for the Love of Jeff^ Chrifi his Son, by the Comfort of the Holy Ghofl, the One God, who miraculoujly brought the Children of Ifrael through the Red Sea^ and brought Jonas to Lmd out of the Belly of the fVhale, and the Jfojl/e St. Paul and his Ship to fafety from the troubled raging Sea, and from the Violence of a tempejiuous Storm ; deliver, fanBify, blefs and con- duct us peaceably^ calmly^ and comfortably through the Sea to our Harbour^ according to his Divine Will : which we beg, faying, Our Father, &c. Wejiern IJlands of Scotland* i j t A Defiription of the I/le of SKI E. SK^IE (in the antient Language Skianach^ /. e. wing'd) is fo caU'd becaufe the two oppofite Northern Promontories (Fatemefs ly- ing North- weft, a.nd Troternefs North-eaft) re^ femble two Wings, This Ifle Ues for the moft part half-way in the Weftern Sea, between the main Land on the Eaft, the Shire of Rofs, and the Weftern Ifle of Lems, Sec. THE Ifle is very high Land, as well on the Coaft, as higher up in the Country ; and there are {evGn high Mountains near one another, almoft in the Center of the Ifle. THIS Ifland is forty miles in length from South to North, and in fome places twenty, and in others thirty in breadth ; the whole may a- mount to a hundred miles in Circumference* THE Channel between the South of Skie and oppofite main Land (which is part of the Shire of Innernefs) is not above three Leagues in breadth ; and where the Ferry-Boat croifeth to Glenelg it's fo narrow, that one may call for the Ferry-Boat, and be eafily heard on the other fide. This Ifle is a part of the Sheriffdom of Innernefs^ and formerly of the Diocefs of the .12 Ifles, 1^1 ^Description o/fk Ifles, which was united to that of Jrgyle : a South-Eaft Moon caufeth a Spring-Tide here. THE Mold is generally black, efpecially in the Mountains ; but there is.fome of a red colour, in which Iron is found. THE arable Land is for the moft part black, yet affords Clay of different colours ', as white, red, and blue : the Rivulet at Dunvegm Churcli, and that of Nisbofi^ have Fullers- Earth. THE Villages Borve and Glenmore afford two very fine forts of Earth, the one red, the other white ; and they both feel and cut like melted Tallow. There are other places that afford plenty of very fine white Marie, which cuts like Butter ; it abounds moft in Corchatta- charij where an Experiment has been made of its Virtue : A quantity of it being fpread on a floping Hill cover'd with Heath, foon afteir all the Heath fell to the ground, as if it had been cut with a Knife. They afterwards fow'd Barley on the ground, which tlio it grew but unequally, fome places producing no Grain, becaufe perhaps it was unequally laid on ; yet the Produce was thirty five fold, and many Stalks carry'd five Ears of Barley. This ac- count was given me by the prefent PoffefTor of the Ground, L/ichiin Mac'KJnon^ THERE Wefteni Ipands of Scotland. i 53 THERE are Marcafhes black and white, refembling filver Ore, near the Village Sank : there are like wife in the fame place feveral Stones, which in bignefs, fhape, d'c. referable Nutmegs, and many Rivulets here afford va- riegated Stones of all colours. The Jpples- glen near Loch-fa/Iart has Aggat growing in it of different fizes and colours ; fome are green on the out-fide, fome are of a pale sky-colour, and they all ftrike tire as well as Flint : I have one of them by me, which for Ihape and bignefs is proper for a Sword-handle. Stones of a pur- ple colour flow down the Rivulets here after great Rains. THERE is Chryftal in feveral places of this Ifland, as at Portrj, Quillw^ and Mingnis ; it's of different fizes and colours, fome is fex- angular, as that of Qutllin^ and Mmgnis ; and there is fome in Minnnefs of a purple colour. The YilhgeTorrm in Strath affords a great deal of good white and black Marble ; I have i^^Qn Cups made of the white, which is very fine. There are large Quarries of Free-ftone in feve- ral parts of this Ifle, as at Snifnefs in Strath^ in the South of Borrie^ a nd Ifle of Rafay. There is abundance of Lime-ftone in Strath and Trotter- nejs : fome Banks of Clay on the Eaft, Coaft are overflow'd by the Tide, and in thefe grow the Lapis Ceranim^ or Cerna, Jmomis, of different Ihapes \ fome of the breadth of a Crown-piece, I 3 bearing 134 ^Description of the bearing an Impreffion refembling the Sun; fome are as big as a Man's Finger, inform of a Semicircle, and furrow'd on the inner fide; others are iefs, and have furrows of a yellow colour on both fides. Thefe Stones are by the Natives call'd Cramp-ftones, becaufe (as they fay) they cure the Cramp in Cows, by wafhing the partaffefted. with Water in which this Stone has been fteep'd for fome hours. The Velumnites grow likewife in thefe Banks of Clay; fome of 'em are twelve Inches long, and tapering towards one end : the Natives call them Bot Stones^ becaufe they believe them to cure the Horfes of the Worms which occafion that Dif- temper, by giving them Water to drink, in which this Stone has been fl:eep'd for fome hours. THIS Stone grows likewife in the middle of a very hard grey Stone on the fhore. There is a black Stone in the Surface of the Rock on i^/^-fhore, which refembles Goats Horns. THE L^pis Hecticus^ or white Heftick Srone, abounds here both in the Land and Wa- ter : the Natives ufe this Stone as a Remedy a- gainft the DyfemerU and Diarrhea ; they make them red-hot in the fire, and then quench them in Milk, and fome in Water, which they drink with good fuccefs. They ufe this Stone after the fame manner for Confumptions, and they likewife quench thefe Stones in Water, with which they bathe their Feet and Hands. THE Wejleni JJlands of Scotland. 1 3 5 THE Stones on which the Scurf calPd Cor- kir grows, are to be had in many places on the Coaft, and in the Hills. This Scurf dyes a pretty crimfon Colour; firfl: well dry'd, and then ground to powder, after which it's fteep'd in Urine, the VeiTel being well fecur'd from Air ; and in three Weeks it's ready to boil with the Yarn that is to be dyed. Tiie Natives obferve the Decreafe of the Moon for fcraping this Scurf from the Stone, and fay it's ripeft in Augufi, THERE are many white Scurfs on Stone, fomewhat like thefe on which the Corktr grows, but the Corktr is white, and thinner than any other that refembles it. THERE is another coarfer Scurf calPd Crofttl ; it's of a dark colour, and only dyes a Philamot. THE Rocks in the Village Ord, have much Talk growing on them like the Venice- Talk, THIS Ifle is naturally well provided with variety of excellent Bays and Harbours. In the South of it lies the PeninfuU call'd Oronfa^ dias Ifland Dierman ; it has an excellent Place for Anchorage on the Eaft-fide, and is gene- rally known by moft Scots Sea-men. About a 1 4 League \]6 ^Description of tk League more Eafterly on the fame Coaft there isafmallRock, vifible only at half Low- water, but may be avoided by fteering through the middle of the Channel. About a League more Eafterly on the fame Coaft, there is an Ancho- rage pretty near the Shore : within lefs than a mile further is the narrow Sound caU'd the Ky^e^ in order to pafs which it*s abfolutely ne- cefTary to have the Tide of Flood for fuch as are Northward bound, elfe they will be oblig'd to retire in diforder, becaufe of the Violence of the Current ; for no Wind is able to carry a VelTel againft it. The quite contrary Courfe is to be obfervM by VeiTels coming from the North. A mile due Eaft from the JCylr^ there is a big Rock, on the South fide "the point- of Land on She fide, calPd KjitlUch^ which is overflow 'd by the Tide of Flood ; a VeiTel may go near its out-fide. Above a mile further due North, there are two Rocks in the pafTage through the Kjfle ; they are on the Caftle fide, and may be avoided by keeping the middle of the Channel. About eight miles more to the Northward, or the Eaft of Skie^ there is fecure Anchorage between the IflcS^^/^^ and Skie in the middle of theChannel ; but one muft not come to in by the South Entry of Scal- pa: and in coming between R^faj and this Ifle, there are Rocks without the Entry, which may be avoided beft, by having a Pilot of the Coun- try. More to the North is Lockfligichar/^ on the Coaft of Skie^ where is good Anchorage ; the Weft em Iflands of Scotland. 1^7 the Entry is not deep enough for VelTels of any Burden, except at high Water : but three miles further North lies Loch-Tor try ^ a capa- cious and convenient Harbour of ^above a mile in length. . ,.,..., • ,,'. ,,; THE V^vATulm^vM^W^i^n half a mile of the Northermoft Point of Skie, has an Harbour on the infide. The Entrance be- t:ween the Ifle and Dimtulm Caftle is the beil. ON the Weft of the fame Wing of Skie^ and about five miles more Southerly, lies Loch- Vge^ about a mile in length, and a very good Harbour for VefTels of the greateft burden. About tvi^o miles on this Coaft further South is Loch-fnifort \ it"'s three miles in length, and half a mile in breadth.; it is free from Rocks, and has convenient Anchorage.^ O N the Weft fide the Promontory, at the mouth of Loch-fmfortj lies Loch-arnifort^ being about two miles , in length, and half a mile in breadth : there are two fmall Ifles in the mouth of the Entry, and a Rock near the Weft fide, a little within the Entry. SOME five miles to the Weft o^ Jrmfon lies Loch-falUrt ; the Entry is between Vdterms- head on the Eaft fide, and Dunvegan-head on the Weft fide. The Loch is fix miles in length, and about'^ league in breadth for fome miles : it hath ij8 ^Description o/rk hath the Ifland Ifa, about the middle, on the Eaft fide. There is a Rock between the North end and the Land, and there VefTels may anchor between the N. E. fide of the Ifle and the Land • there is alfo good Anchorage near Dunvegm- Cafl:le, two miles further to the Southward. LOCH'BRJK^DIL lies two miles South of Loch-fallan ; it is feven miles in length, and has feveral good Anchoring-places : on the North fide the Entry lie two Rocks, call'd MackleocPs Mnideris. About three miles South- weft is Loch-einardj a mile in length ; it has a Rock in the Entry, and is not vifible but at an Ebb. ABOUT two miles to the Eaft ward, there is an Anchoring-place for Barks, between Skie and the Ifle Soa. ABOUT a League further Eaft lie Loch- flapan and Loch-ejfort ; the firft reaches about four miles to the North, and the fecond about fix miles to the Eaft. THERE are feveral Mountains in the Ifle of a confiderable height and extent ; as Quillin^ Scornifejy Bein-fiore^ Bein-vore-jcowe^ Bein-chroy Bem-nWy KjtilUch : fome of them are cover'd with Snow on the top in Summer, others are almoft quite cover'd with Sand in tl^ top, which is much wafh'd down with the great Rains. Weftern IJtands of Scotland. i ^ p Rains. All thefe Mountains abound with Heath and Grafs, which ferve as good Paftu- rage for black Cattle and Sheep. THE Quillin, which exceeds any of thofe Hills in height, is faid to be the caufe of much Rain, by breaking the Clouds that hover about it ; which quickly after pour down in Rain up- on the quarter on which the Wind then blows. There is a high Ridge of one continu'd Moun- tain of confiderable height, and fifteen miles in length, running along the middle of the Eaft Wing of Skie, call'd Troternefs ; and that part above the Sea is faced with a fteep Rock. THE arable Ground is generally along the Coaft, and in, the Valleys between the Moun- tains, having always a River running in the middle ; the Soil is very grateful to the Husband- man. I have been fhew'd feveral places that had not been till'd for feven Years before, which yielded a good Produft of Oats by digging, tho the Ground was notdung'd ; particularly near the Village Kjhnartin, which the Natives told me had not been dung'd thefe forty Years laft. Several pieces of Ground yield twenty, and fome thirty fold, when dung'd with Sea-ware. I had an account, that a fmall Traft of Ground in the Village Skerjbreck^ yielded an hundred fold of Barley. THE Ifle of Altig^ which is generally co- ver'd with Heath, being manur'd with Sea- ware, 14P ^ DeS CRI PTION o/ ^/;e ware, the Owner fowM Barley in the Ground, and it yielded a very good Produd ; many Stalks had five Ears growing upon them. In plentiful Years, Skie furnifhes the oppofite Con- tinent with Oats and Barley. The way of Tillage here is after the fame manner that is already defcrib'd in the Ifles of Lfir/5, 8rc. and digging doth always produce a better Increafe here than ploughing. ALL the Mountains in this Ifle are plenti- fully furnirh'd with variety of excellent Springs and Fountains ; fome of them have Rivulets, with Water-Mills upon them. The moft ce- lebrated Well in Skie, is Loch-ftmt Well ; it is much frequented by Strangers, as well as by the Inhabitants of the Ifle, who generally be- lieve it to be a Specifick for feveral Difeafes ; fuch as Stitches, Head-aches, Stone, Confump tions, Megrim. Several of the common Peo- ple oblige themfelves by a Vow to come to this. Well, and make the ordinary Tour about it, call'd Defjii, which is perform'd thus : They move thrice round the Well, proceeding Sun- ways from Eaft to Well, and fo on. This is done after drinking of the Water; and when one goes away from the Well, it's a never-failing Cuftom, to leave fome fmall Offering on the Stone which covers the Well. There are nine Springs ilTuing out of the Hill above the Well, and all of them pay the Tribute of theirWater to a Rivulet that falls from the- Well. *rhere is Wefiern IJlands of Scotland. 141 is a little frefh- water Lake within ten Yards of the faid Well ; it abounds with Trouts, but neither the Natives nor Strangers will ever pre- fume to deftroy any of them, fuch is the Efteem they have for the Water. THERE is a fmall Coppice near to the Well, and there is none of the Natives dare venture to cut the leaft Branch of it, for fear of fome fignal Judgment to follow upon it. THERE are many Wells here efteem'd ef- fefliual to remove feveral Diftempers. The lighteft and wholefomeft Water in all the Ifleas that of Tof2l?ir Tellibreck ia Vge : the Natives fay that the Water of this Well, and the Sea-plant call'd Dulfey would ferve inftead of Food for a confiderable time, and own that they have ex- perienc'd it in time of War. I faw a little Well in KJlbride in the South of Skie^ with one Trout only in it ; the Natives are very tender of it, and tho they often chance to catch it in their wooden Pales, they are very careful to preferve it from being deftroy'd ; it has been feen there for many Years: there is a Rivulet not far diftant from the Well, to which it hath proba- bly had accefs thro fome narrow Paflage. THERE are many Rivers on all quarters of the Ifle, about jo of 'em afford Salmon, arid fome of 'em black Mufcels, in which Pearl do breed*, particularly the River of IQlmanm, ^.nd the 1 4 i ^ D E S C R I P T I O N 0/ f /;^ the River Ord, The Proprietor told me, that fome Years ago a Pearl had been taken out of the former, valu'd at 20 /. Sterling. There are feveral Catarafts, as that in Sker-horeny Holm^ Rig and Tont. When a River makes a great noife in time of fair Weather, it's a fure Prog- nollick here of Rain to enfue. THERE are many frelli- water Lakes in Skie^ and generally well ftock'd with Trout and Eels. The common Fly and the Earth-worms are ordinarily ufed for angling Trout ; the beft Seafon for it is a Calm, or a South- weft Wind. THE largeft of the frefh-water Lakes is that named after St. Columhm^ on the account of the Chappel dedicated to that Saint ; it ftands in the Ifle, about the middle of the Lake. T H E R E is a little frefh-water Lake near the South fide of Loch-einordftardj m which Mufcles grow that breed Pearl. THIS Ifle hath antiently been cover'd all over with Woods, as appears from the great Trunks of Fir-trees, &c. dug out of the Bogs frequently, d^c There are feveral Coppices of Wood, fcatter'd up and down the Ifle; the largefl: calPd Lettir-hurr, exceeds not three miles in length. HER^ Weflern IJlands of Scotland. 142 HERRINGS are often taken in moft or all the Bays mention'd above : Loch-ejfort, SU- fan, Loch-fa/Iarty Loch-fcowfar, and the J<^^le of Scalpay are generally known to Strangers, for the great quantities of Herring taken in them. This fort of Fifli is commonly {eQn without the Bays, and on the Coaft all the Summer. All other Fifh follow the Herring and their Fry, from the Whale to the leaft Fifh that fwims ; the biggeft ftill deftroying the leffer. THE Fifhers and others told me, that there is a big Herring almoft double the fize of any of ks kind, which leads all that are in a Bay, and the Shoal follows it wherever it goes. This Leader is by the Fifhers call'd the King of Herring, and when they chance to catch it alive, they drop it carefully into the Sea ; for they judg it Petty Treafon to deftroy a Fifli of that name. THE Fifhers fay, that all forts of Fifh, from the greatefl to the leaft, have a Leader, who is follow'd by all of its kind. IT is a general Obfervation all Scotland over, that if a Quarrel happen on the Coafl where Herring is caught, and that Blood be drawn violently, then the Herring go away from the Coaff, without returningduring that Seafon. This, they fay, has been obferv'd in all 1 44 ^Description of the all paft Ages, as well as at prefent ; but this I relate only as a common Tradition, and fub- ,mit it to t;lie Judgment of the Learned. THfi 'Natives preferve and dry their Her- ring without Salt, for the fpace of eight Months, provided they be taken after the tenth of September : they ufe no other Art in it, but 'take out their Guts, and then tying a Ruili ^bout their necks, hang them by pairs upon a Rope made of Heath crofs a Houfe ; and they eat well, and free from Put refaction, after eight months keeping in this manner. Cod, Ling, Herring, Mackrel, Haddock, Whiting, Turbar, together with all other Filli that are in the Scots Seas, abound on the Coalh of this iQand. THE beft time of taking Fifli with an Angle is in warm Weather, which difpofes them to come near the Surface of the Water ; whenas in cold Westher, or Rain, they go to the bottom. The beft Bait for Cod and Ling is a piece of Herring, Whiting, Thornback, Haddock, or Eel. The Grey-Lord, alias Black-mouth, a Fifli of the fize and fhape of a Salmon, takes the Limpet for Bait. There is another way of angling for this Fifli, by faft- ning a Hiort white Down of a Goofe behind the Hook ; and the Boat being continually row'd, the Fifh run greedily after the Down, and are eafily caught/ The Grey-Lord fwims in the Surface Wejlern Iflands of Scotland. 145: Surface of the Water, and then is caught with a Spear ; a Rope being ty'd to the further end of it, and fecur'd in the Fiflierman's hand. ALL the Bays and Places of Anchorage here abound with moft kinds of Shell-filh. The Kjfle of Scdpa, affords Oyfters in fuch plenty, that commonly a Spring-Tide of Ebb leaves fifteen, fometimes twenty Horfe-load of them on the Sands. THE Sands on the Coafl of Bemfiill Village at the Spring-Tides afford daily fuch plenty of Mufcles, as is fufficient to maintain fixty Per- fons/'crday : and this was a great Support to many poor Families of the Neighbourhood, in the late Years of Scarcity. The Natives ob- ferve that all Shell-fifli are plumper at the In- creafe than Decreafe of the Moon ; they ob- ferve like wife that all Shell-fifh are plumper during a South-weft Wind, than when it blows from the North or North-eaft Quarters. THE Limpet being parboil'd with a very little quantity of Water, the Broth is drank to increafe Milk in Nurfes, and likewife when the Milk proves aftringent to the Infants. The Broth of the black Periwinkle is ufed in the fame cafes. It's obferv'd, that Limpets being frequently eat injune^ are apt to occafion the Jaundice ; the Outfide of the Fifh is coloured like the Skin of a Perfon that has the Jaundice : K the \^6 .^Description 0/ tk the tender yellow part of the Limpet, which is next to the Shell, is reckon'd good Nourifh- meni:, and very eafy of Digeftion. I HAD an Account of a poor Woman, who was a Native of the Ifle of ^uya^ and by the Troubles in King Charles the Firft's Reign was almoit red'jc'd to a fl:arving Condition ; fo that fhe loft her Milk quite, by which her Infant had nothing proper for its Suftenance : upon this file boiPd fome of the tender Fat of the Limpets, and gave it to her Infant, to whom it became fo agreeable, that it had no other Food for feveral Months together ; and yet there was not a Child in J^r/a, or any of the adjacent liles, wholefomer than this poor In- fant, which was expos'd to fo great a Strait. THE Limpet creeps on the Stone and Rock in the niglit-time, and in a warm Day ; but if any thing touch the Shell, it inftantly clings to the Stone, and then no hand is able to pluck it oit widiout fome Iniirument : and therefore inch as take 'em have little Hammers, call'd Limpet-hammers, with which they beat it from the Rock ; but if they watch its motion, and farprize ir,- the leaft 1 ouch of the Hand pulls it away : and this tliat is taken creeping, they fay, is larger and better than that which is puli'd oif byVorce. The Motion, Fixation, Tafte and Feeding, 6^c. of this little Animal being very curious, I have here exhibited its Figure, Weftern Iftands of Scotland. 147 Figure, for the fatisfaftion of the inquifitive Reader. I HAVE likewife here exhibited the Figm-e of the Balanos, growing on Stone and Shells ; in which, very fmalls Wtlks are found to lodg and grow. THE pale Wilk^ which in length and fmall- nefs exceeds the black Periwinkle, and by the Natives call'd Gil-funty is by them beat in pieces, and both Shell and Fifli boil'd ; the Broth being ftrain'd, and drank for fome days together, is accounted a good Remedy againft the Stone : it is calPd a Dead-Mari^s-Eye 2it Dover. It is obferv'd of Cockles and Spout- iifh, that they go deeper in the Sands with North Winds, than any other ; and on the contrary, they are eafier reach'd with South Winds, which are ftill warmeft. I T is a general Obfervation of all fuch as live on the Sea-Coaft, that they are more pro- lifick than any other People whatfoever. K 2 rk 14^ ^ Descriptio N o/ t/je Tl?e Sea-Tlants here, are as follows, LJN/IRICH, a very thin fmall green Plant, about eight, ten, or twelve inches in length ; it grows on Stone, on Shells, and on the bare Sand. This Plant is apply'd Plaiftcr-wife to the Forehead and Temples, to procure Sleep for fuch as have a Fever, and they fay it is effedual for this pur- pofc. THE Linarich is hkewife apply'd to the Crown of the Head and Temples, for re- moving the Megrim, and alfo to heal the Skin after a Blifter-Plaifter of tUmmuU SLAK^E^ a very thin Plant, almoft round, about ten or twelve inches in circumference, grows on the Rocks and Sands ; the Natives eat it boiPd, and it dilTolves into Oil: they fay, that if a little Butter be added to it, one might live many Years on this alone, without Bread, or any other Food, and at the fame time undergo any laborious Exercife. I'hjs Plant, boil'd with fome Butter, is given to Cows ia the Spring, to remove Coilive- n::;is. DVLSE Wejlern Iflands of Scotland. 149 DVLSE is of a reddifh bcown colour, a bout tenor twelve inches long, and above half an inch in breadth: it is eat raw, and then rec- koned to be loofening, and very good for the Sight ; but if boiPd, it proves more loofening, if the Juice be drank with it. This Plant ap- ply'd Plaifter-wife to the Temples, is reckon d effedual againft the Megrim : the Plant boil'd, and eat with its Infufion, is ufed againil the Cholick and Stone ; and dry'd without wafl:- ing it in water, pulveriz'd and given in any convenient Vehicle fafting, it kills Worms: the Natives eat it boil'd with Butter, and rec- kon it very wholefom. The Dulj'e recommen- ded here, is that which grows on Stone, and not that which grows on the Alga AUrina^ or Sea-Tangle ; for tho that be likewife eaten, it will not ferve in any of the Cafes above men- tion'd. THE Jlga Mar ma, or Sea-Tangle, or, as fome call it, Sea-)vare, is a Rod about tour, fix, eight or ten foot long ; having at the end a Blade comiPxOnly flit into feven or eight pieces, and about a foot and half in length : it grows on Stone, the Blade is eat by the vulgar Natives. I had an account of a young Man who had loft his Appetite, and taken Pills to no purpofe ; and being advis'd to boil the Blade of the Jlga, and drink the Infufion boiPd with a little Butter, was reftor'd to his former State of Health. K I THERE 1 yo ^Description of the THERE is abundance of white and red Coral growing on the South and Weil: Coail of this Ifle ; it grows on the Rocks, and is frequently interwoven with the Roots of the Jlga : the red feems to be a good frelh Co- lour when firft taken out of the Sea, but in a few hours after it becomes pale. Some of the Natives take -a quantity of the red Coral, adding the Yolk of an Egg roafted to it, for the Diarrhea. Both the red and white Coral here is not above five inches long, and about the bignefs of a Goofe-Quill. THERE are many Caves to be feen on each quarter of this Ifle, fome of them are believ'd to be feveral miles in length : there is a big Cave in the Village Bornskittag^ which is fupposM to exceed a mile in length. The Natives told me that a Piper, who was over- curious, went into the Cave with a defign to find out the length of it ; and after he enter'd, began to play on his Pipe, but never return'd to give an account of his Progrefs. THERE is a Cave in the Village Kjgg, wherein Drops of Water that ilTue trom the Roof petrify into a white limy Subftance, and hang down from the Roof and Sides of fhe Cave» THERE Wejiem JJlands of Scotland. i v i THERE is a Cave in the Village Holw, having many petrify'd Twigs iianging from the top ; they are hollow from one end to tlie other, and from five to ten inches in length. THERE is a big Cave in the Rock on the Eaft fide of Portry, large enough for eighty Perfons : there is a Well within it, which, to- gether with its Situation and narrow Entry, renders it an inacceffible Fort ; one Man only can enter it at a time, by the fide of a Pvock, fo that with a Staff in his hand he is able by the leaft touch to cafi: over the Rock as many as fhall attempt to come into the Cave. ON the South fide Loch-Porfry^ there is a large Cave, in which many Sea-Cormorants do build : the Natives carry a bundle of Straw to the door of the Cave in the night-time, and there fetting it on fire, the Fowls fly with all fpeed to the Light, and fo are caught in Baskets laid for that purpofe. The Golden Cave in Sleat is faid to be feven miles in length, from the Weil: to Eaft. THERE are many Cairns, or Heaps of Stones in this Ifland. Some of the Natives fay they were ereded in the times of Heathemfm, and that the antient Inhabitants worflfip'd a- bout them. In Popilli Countries, the People K 4 ftill 15^ ^Description of the flill retain the antient Cuftom of making a Tour round them. OTHERS fay, thefe Cairns were ereaed where Perfons of Diftinction, kill'd in Battle, had been bury'd, and that their Urns were laid m the ground under the Cairns. I had an account of a Cairn in Kt^ufdde in the Shire of Jrgyle^ underneath which an Urn was found. There are little Cairns to be (t^n in fome places on the common Road, which were made only where Corps happened to reft for fome minutes ; but they have laid afide the making fuch Cairns now. THERE is an creeled Stone in Kjlbrtde in Strath^ which is ten foot high, and one and a half broad. THERE is another of five foot hieh plac'd in the middle of the Cairn, on ^he South fide Loch-Vgcy and is call'd the high Stone of Vge. THERE are three fuch Stones on the Sea- Coaft oppofite to Skerimfs, each of them three foot high : the Natives laave a Tradition, that upon thefe Stones a big Caldron was {^t, for boiling Ff7/-Mac-Co»Ps Meat. This Gigantick Man is reported to have been General of a Militia that came from Spam to Ireland^ and from thence to thofe Ifles : all his Soldiers are call'd Wefiern Ifiamh of Scotland. i ^ ^ calPd Benty from Fiun, He is believ'd to have arriv'd in the Ifles, in the Reign of King Evan : the Natives have many Stories of this General and his Army, with which I will not trouble the Reader. He is mention'd in Bidiop Le[ly*% Hiftory. THERE are many Forts ere£led on the Coaft of this Ifle, and fuppos'd to have been built by the Dar?es : they are calPd by the name of Dun^ from Daw^ which in the antient Language fignityM a Fort ; they are round in form, and they have a PalTage all round with- in the Wall : the Door of 'em is low, and ma- ny of the Stones are of fuch bulk, that no number of the prefent Inhabitants could raife them without an Engine. ALL thefe Forts ftand upon Eminences, and are fo difpos'd, that there is not one of them, which is not in view of fome other ; and by this means, when a Fire is made upon a Beacon in any one Fort, it's in a few moments after communicated to all the reft : and this hath been always obferv'd upon fight of any number of foreign Veflels, or Boats approach- ing the Coaft. THE Forts are commonly named after the place where they are, or the Perfon that built them ; as Dan-Skudborg^ Du/^-Derig, Dun-Ske- rmefsy Dun-David^ 8cc. THERE 154 ^ DeS CRI PTI O N o/ f/;e THERE are feveral little ftone Houfes, built under ground, calPd Earth-houfes, which ferv'd to hide a few People and their Goods in time of War ; the Entry to them was on the Sea or River-fide : there is one of them in the Village Lachfajy and another in Camjlmvag, THERE are feveral little ftone Houfes built above ground, capable only of one Per- fon, and round in form ; one of 'em is to be feen in Ponry, another at Lincroy and at Cu- lukfiock : they are call'd Tey-nin-druimch, i. e. Druids'houfe. Druinich figniiies a retired Per- fon, much devoted to Contemplation. THE Fewel ufed here is Peats dug out of the Heaths : there are Cakes of Iron found in the Alhes of fome of 'em, and at Flodgerj Vil- lage there are Peats from which Salt-peter fparkles. There is a Coal lately difcover'd at Holm in Portrj, fome of which I have feen ; there are pieces of Coal dug out likewife of the Sea-Sand in Helderfl-a of Vaternisy and fome found in the Village Mogftat. THE Cattel produc'd here are Horfes, Cows, Sheep, Goats and Hogs. The common Work-Horfes are expos'd to the Rigour of the Seafon during the Winter and Spring ; and tho they have neither Corn, Hay, or but feldom Straw, yet they undergo. all the Labour that other Horfes better treated are liable to. THE Wejlern JJlands of Scotland. i 5 j THE Cows are likewife expos'd to the Ri- gour of the coldeft Seafons, and become mere Skeletons in the Spring, many of them not be- ing able to rife from the ground without help ; but they recover as the Seafon becomes more favourable, and the Grafs grows up : then they acquire new Beef, which is both fweet and tender ; the Fat and Lean is not fo much fepa- rated in them as in other Cows, but as it were larded, which renders it very agreeable to the Tafte. A Cow in this Ifle may be twelve Years old, when at the fame time its Beef is not above four, live, or fix Months old. When a Calf is (lain, it's an ufual Cuftom to cover another Calf with its Skin, to fuck the Cow whofe Calf hath been llain, or elfe fhe gives no Milk, nor fuffers her felf to be approach'd by anybody; and if flie difcover the Cheat, then file grows enrag'd for fome days, and the laft Remedy ufed to pacify her, is to ufe the fweet- eft Voice, and fing all the time of milking her. "When any Man is troubled witli his Neigh- bours Cows, by breaking into his Inclofures, he brings all to the utmoft Boundary of his Ground, and there drawing a quantity of Blood from each Cow, he leaves them upon the fpot, from whence they go away, without ever returning again to trouble him, during all that Sealon. The Cows often feed upon the Jlga Marma^ or Sea- ware ; and they can ex- aaly diftinguilli the Tide of Ebb from the Tide 1^6 J" Descrivt ION of the Tide of Flood, tho at the fame time they are not within view of the Sea ; and if one meet them running to the Shore at the Tide of Ebb, and offer to turn them again to the Hills to graze, they will not return. When the Tide has ebbM about two hours, fo as to uncover the Sea-ware, then they fteer their courfe diredtly tothe neareft Coaft, in their ufual Order, one after another, whatever their number be : there are as many Inftances of this, as there are Tides of Ebb on the fhore. I had occafion to make this Obfervation thirteen times in one Week ; for tho the Natives gave me repeated AfTurances of the Truth of it, I did not fully believe it, till I faw many Inftances of it in my Travels along the Coaft. The Natives have a Remark, that when the Cows belonging to one Perfon do of a fudden become very irregular, and run up and down the fields, and make a loud noife, without any vifible caufe, that it is a Prefage of the Mafter's or Miftrefs's Death ; of which there were feveral late Inftances given me. James Mackdonald of Ca^fiil having been kiird at the Battle of Kjlicrankj, it was obfer- ved that night, that his Cows gave Blood in- ftead of Milk ; his^ Family and other Neigh- bours concluded this a bad Omen. The Mi- nifter of the Place, and the Miftrefs of the Cows, together with feveral Neighbours, af- fured me of the Truth of this. THERE Wejleni IJhnds of Scotland. 157 THERE was a Calf brought forth mya- ternis without Legs; it leap'd very far, bel- lowM louder than any other Calf, and drank much more Milk : at laft the Owner kill'd it. Kjnneth the Carpenter, who lives there, told me that he had feen the Calf. I was alfo in- form'd, that a Cow in Vater?7is brought forth five Calves at a time, of which three died. THERE was a Calf at Skerir.efs, having all its Legs double, but the Bones had but one Skin to cover both ; the Owner fancying it to be ominous, kill'd it, after having lived nine Months. Several of the Natives there-abouts told me that they had feen it. THERE are feveral Calves that have a flit in the top of their Ears, and thefe the Natives fancy to be the IlTue of a wild Bull, that comes from the Sea or frefh Lakes ; and this Calf is by them calFd Corky-fyre, THERE'S plenty of Land and Water- Fowl in this Ifle ; as Hawks, Eagles of two kinds, the one grey and of a larger fize, the other much lefs and black, but more deftru£live to young Cattle ; Black-cock, Heath-hen, Plo- vers, Pigeons, Wild-Geefe, Tarmagan, and Cranes : of this latter fort, I have feen fixty on the fhore in a Flock together. The Sea-Fowls are Malls of all kinds, Coulterneb, Guilla- mot, 158 ^'Description of the moc, Sea-Cormorant, &c. The Natives ob- ferve that the latter, if perfeftly black, makes no good Broth, nor is its Flefh worth eating ; but that a Cormorant, which has any white Feathers or Down, makes good Broth, and the Fie 111 of it is good Food, and the Broth is ufually drunk by Nurfes to increafe their Milk. THE Natives obferve, that this Fowl flut- ters with its Wings towards the Quarter from which the Wind is foon after to blow. THE Sea-Fowl Bumvochily or, as fome Sea- men call it, Cardra, and others Bijhop^ is as big as a Goofe, of a brown colour, and the infide of the Wings white ; the Bill is long and broad, and it is footed like a Goofe ; it dives quicker than any other Fowl whatever, it's very fat. The Cafe of tliis Fowl being flay'd off with the Fat, and a little Salt laid on to preferve it, and .then apply'd to the Thigh-bone, where it muft lie for fome Weeks together, is an effedual Remedy againft the Sciatica j of which I faw two Inlfances. It is obferv'd of Fire-Arms that are rubb\i over (as the cuftom is here) with the Oil or Fat of Sea-Fowls, that they contract Ruft much fooner, than when done with the Fat of Land-Fowl ; the Fulmar-0]]. from St. Kjlda only excepted, which preferves Iron from contrading Rull much longer than any other Oil or Greafe vv^hatfoever. The- Na- tives obferve., that when the Sea-Pye warbles its Weft em I/lands of Scot\3.nd. 15^ its Notes incelTantly, it is a fure Prefage of fair Weather to follow in a few hours after. THE AmfhihU to be feen in this Ifle, are Seals, Otters, Vipers, Frogs, Toads and Afps. The Otter (liuts its Eyes when it eats ; and this is a confiderable difadvantage to it, for then feveral ravenous Fowls lay hold on this oppor- tunity, and rob it of its Fifli. THE Hunters fay, there is a big Otter above the ordinary fize, with a white Spot on its Breaft, and this they call the King of Otters; it is rarely feen, and very hard to be kill'd : Seamen afcribe great Virtues to the Skin ; for they fay that it is fortunate in Battle, and that Vi(3:ory is always on its fide. Serpents abound in feveral parts of this Ifle ; there are three kinds of them, the firft black and white fpot- tecj, which is the moft poifonous, and if a fpeedy RenTedy be not made ufe of after the "Wound given, the Party is in danger. I had an account that a Man at Glenmore^ a Boy at Portry, and a Woman at Loch-fiah-vag^ did all die of Wounds given by this fort of Serpents. Some believe that the Serpents wound with the Sting only, and not with their Teeth ; but this Opinion is founded upon a bare Conjecture, becaufe the Sting is expofed to view, but ^the Teeth very rarely feen : they are fecur'd with- in a Hofe of Fleih, which prevents their being broke ; the end of them being hook'd and ex- ceeding \6o ^Description of tJ?e ceeding fmall, would foon be deftroy'd, if it had not been for this Fence that Nature has given them. The longeft of the black Serpents mention'd above, is from two to three, or at moll: four foot long. THE yellow Serpent with brown Spots, is not fo poifonous, nor fo long as the black and white one. THE brown Serpent is of all three the leaft poifonous, and fmalleft and fhortell in fize. THE Remedies ufed here to extraQ: the Poifon of Serpents, are various. The Rump of a Houfe-Cock ftript of its Feathers, and applyM to the Wound, doth powerfully ex- trad the Poifon, if timely apply'd. The Cock is obferv'd after this to fwell to a great bulk, far above its former fize, and being thrown out into the Fields, no ravenous Bird or Beaft will ever offer to taite of it. THE fork'd Sting taken out of an Adder's Tongue, is by the Natives fteep'd in water, with which they wafli and cure the Wound. THE Serpent's Head that gives the Wound, being apply'd, is found to be a good Remedy. NEW Cheefe apply'd timely, extra8:s the Poifon well. THERE JVefiem Iflmds of Scotland. 1 6 i THERE are two forts of Weaps in the Ifle, one of which exceeds that of the common fize in bignefs ; the Natives fay that the breath of it kills Calves, and Lambs, and that the lefTer fort is apt to occafion a decay in fuch as frequently have them tame about them ; efpe- ciafly fuch as fuffer them to fuck and lick about their mouths. The Inferiour Ijles about S K I E. SOJ'BRETTIL lies within a quarter of a Mile to the South of the Mountain fiv/7- lin; it's five Miles in Circumference, and full of Bogs, and fitter for Pafturage than Cultiva- tion. About a Mile on the Weft fide it is co- ver'd with Wood, and the reft confifts of Heath and Grafs, having a mixture of the Mertillo all over. The Red Garden-Curraritsgrow in this Ifle, and are fuppos'd to have been carried thither by Birds. There has been no Veno- mous Creature ever feen in this little Ifle, until within thefe two years lafl, that a black and white big Serpent was feen by one of t*;e Inha- bitants who kill'd it; thfy believe it came From the oppofite Coaft of Skte^ where there are ma- ny big Serpents. There is abundance of Cod and Ling round this Ifle. L ON i6i ^Description ofthe 0 N the South of Sleat lies Ifland Oro/tfk, which is a PeninfuU at Iqw water ; it's a Mile in Circumference, and very fruitful in Corn, and Grafs. As for the latter, it's faid to excel any piece of Ground of its extent in thofe Parts. 1 N the North Entry to K^yle-Akin^ lie feve- ral fmall Ifles ; the biggeft and next to Skie is lUn Nin Gillin^ about half a Mile in Circum- ference, eover'd all over with long Heath, and the Erica. Baccifera ; there is abundance of Sealsy and Se A' Fowls about it. , A LE A G U E further North lies the Ifle Fab- ^d!>, about two Miles inCircunnference; itexcelsin Paliurage, the Cows in it afford near double the Milk that they yield in Skie, In the Dog-Days there is a big Fly iu this Ifle, which infefts the Cowr;, makes them run up and down, difcom- pofes them exceedingly, and hinders their Feed- ing, infomuch that they muft be brought out of the ifle, to the Kle of Skie. This Ifle affords abundance of Lobfiers, Limpets^ Wilks^ Crabs, and ordinary Sea-Plants. ABOUT half a League further North lies the fmali Ifle Gi/Uma»y being a quarter of a Mile in Circumference ; the whole is eover'd with long Heath, and the Erica Baccifera. Within a call further North lies the Ifle Scalpa, very near to Skie^ five Miles in Circumference ; it is moun- Wejlem IJJands of Scotland, i6i mountainous from the South end, almoft to the North end, it has Wood in feveral parts of it ; the South end is moft arable, and is fruitful in Corn and Grafs. ABOUT a Mile further North is the Ifle Rafty, being feven Miles in length, and three in breadth, floaping on the Weft and Eaft fides ; it has fonie Wood on all the Quarters of it, the whole is fitter for Pafturage than Cultivation, the Ground being generally very unequal, but very well watered with Rivulets and Springs. There's a Spring running down the face of a high Rock on the Eaft fide of the Ifle ; it pe- trifies into a white Subftance, of which very fine Lime is made, and there's a great quantity of ir. There's a Quarry of good Stone on the fame fide of the Ifle ; there is abundance of Caves on the Weft fide, which lerve to lodg feveral Fa- milies ; who for their convenience in Grazing, Fifhing, c^c. refort thither in the Summer. On the Weft fide, particularly near to the Vil- lage CUchan^ the Shoar abounds with fmooth Stones of different fizes, variegated all over. The fame Cattle, Fowl and Fifh are product here, that are found in the Ifle of Skie. 1 here is a Law obferv'd by the Natives, that all their Fifhing-Lines muft be of equal length ; for the longeft is always fuppos'd to have beft accefs to the Fifli, which would prove a difadvancage to fuch as might have fhorter ones. L 2 THERE ^ ^4 y^ D E S C R I P T I O N 0/ t/?^ THERE are fome Forts in this Ifle, the higheft is in the South end, it is a Natural Strength, and in form like the Crown of a Hit ; it*s called Dun-Cann, which the Natives will needs have to be from one Canm^ Coufin to the King of Denmark. The other lies on the fide, is an Artificial Fort, three Stories high, and is caljcd C<«/?/^ Freokle. THE Proprietor of the Ifle is Mv.Mack- Leod, a Cadet of the Family of that Name ; his Seat is in the Village CUchan^ the Inhabi- tants have as great veneration for him, as any Subjeds can have for their King. They pre- ferve the Memory of thedeceafed Ladies of the TIace, by erecling a little Pyramid of Stone for each of them, with the Lady's Name. Thefe Pyramids are by them called CrolTes ; feveral of them are built of Stone and Lime, and have three fleps of graaual afcent to 'em. There are eight fuch Croffes about the Village, which is adorn'd with a little Tower, and lefler Houles, and an Orchard with feveral forts of Berries, Pot-herbs, &c. The Inhabitants are all Protejlants^ and ufe the fame Lan- guage, Habit, and Diet, with the Natives of Skie. A BOUT a quarter of a Mile further North I'es the Ifle Ror^a, which is three Miles in i.ngth : Veffels pafs thro the narrow Channel between Weflern IJlands of Scotland. 1 6^ between Rofay and Rona. This little Ifle is the moft unequal rocky piece of Ground to be leen any where ; there's but very few Acres fit for digging, the whole is covered with long Heath, EricA'bacciferay Mertillm^ and fome mixture of Grafs ; it is reckoned very fruitful in Pafturage : moft of the Rocks confift of the HeBic Stone, and a confidcrable part of 'em is of a Red Colour. THERE is a Bay on the South-weft end of the Ifle, with two Entries, the one is on tiic fVeJi-fide, the other on the 6outh^ buc the lat- ter is only acceflible ; it has a Rock within the Entry, and a good Fifhing. ABOUT three Leagues to the North^wejl of Rona^ is the Ifle Fiadda, being almoft joiu'd lo Skie'j it is all plain arable Ground, and about a Mile in Circumference. ABOUT a Mile to the AWth^ lies the Ifle Altvig^ it has a high Rock facing the £>»/?, is near two Miles in Circumference, and i^ repu- ted fruitful in Corn and Grafs \ there is a htile old Chappel in it, dedicated ro St. Turos, There is a Rock of about forty \ ards in leni;th at ihQ Nor th- end Q^i\\Q Ifle, dntinguifhed for its commodioufnefi in FsOiing. Hdrrtngs are feeri about this Rock in great Numbers ail Saamier, infomuch that the Fifber-boats are fomctimes as it were entangled among the fhoaii of th^m. L J THE \66 ^Desciription of the THE Ifle of Troda lies within half a League td the Nor thermoft point of Skie^ called Hunifb ; it is two Miles in Circumference, fruitful in Corn, and Grafs, and had a Chappel dedica- ted to St. ColuwbHi, The Natives told me, that there is a couple of Ravens in the Ifle, which fuffer none other of their kind to come thither ; and when their own Young are able to fly, they beat them alfo away from the Ifle. FLAD DA'Chuan (i. e.^ fUddA of the Ocean, lies about two Leagues difiant from the Weft^ ftde o{ Hunifh-foint ', it is two Miles in Compafs, the Ground is boggy, and but indifferent for Corn or Grafs: the Ifle is much frequented for the plenty of Fifh of all kinds, on each quarter of it. There are very big Whales which purfue the Fifh ontheCoafl:; the Natives diftinguifh one Whale for its bignefs above all others, and told me that it had many big Limpets growing upon its Back, and that the Eyes of it were of fucb a prodigious bignefs, as ftruck no fmill Terror into the Beholders. There is a Chappel in the Ifle dedicated to Sr. Columbm^ it has an Altar in the Eaft-end^ and there is a blue Stone of a round Form on it, which is always moifl-. }i is an ordinary Cuftom, when any of the FiiT'.ermen are detain'd in the Ifle, by con- trary Winds, to wafb the blue Stone with Wa- ter all round, expefting thereby to procure a fa- vourable Wind, which the credulous Tenant living Wejlern Iflands of Scotland. 167 living in the I/le fays never fails, efpecially if a Stranger wafli the Stone : The Stone is likewife applied to the fides of People troubled with Stitches, and they fay it is effeftual for that pur- pofe. And fo great is the regard they have for this Stone, that they fwear decifive Oaths on it. THE Monk 0 Gorgon is buried near to this Chappel, and there is a Stonfe five foot high at each end of his Grave. There's abundance of Sea-fowl that come to hatch their Young in the Ifle; the Coultermbs are very numerous here, it comes in the middle of March^ and goes away in the middle o^ Augu(i : it makes a Tour round the Ifle Sunways, before it fettles on the Ground, and another at going away in Augufi ; which Ceremony is much approved by the Tenant of the Ifle, and is one of the chief Arguments, he made ufe of for making the like round, as he fets out to Sea with his Boar. THERE is a great Flock of Vlovers, that come to this Ifle from 6'/(7>, in the beginning of September ; they return again in Afrtl^ and are faid to be near two thoufand in all : I told the Tenant he might have a Couple of thefe at every Meal during the Winter and Spring, but my motion feem'd very dilagreeable to him; for he declared that he had never once attempted to take any of them, tho he might if he would : L 4 and i68 ^Description o/fk and at the fame time told me, be wondred how I could iaiagine, that he would be fo barbarous as to take theiives of fuch innocent Creatures as came to him only for Self-prefervation. T H E R E are fix or feven Rocks within di- flanceof a Musket- flior, on the South eaft fide the Ifle, the Sea running between each of them ; that lying more. £4j?fr/^ is the Fort called Bord Cruift, (i.e.) a round Table, from its round Form ; it is about three hundred Paces in Cir- cumference, flat in the top^ has a deep Well within if, the whole is furrounded with a fteep Rock, and has only one Place that is acceffi- ble by climbing, and that only by one Man at a time: there is a violent Current of a Tide on each fide of it, which contributes to render it an impregnable Fort, it belongs to Sir Donald Mac Donald One fingle Man above the Entry, without being expos'd to fhot. is able, with a Staff in his h.md, to keep off five hun- dred Attackers; for one only can climb the Rock at a time, and that not without diffi- culty. T H E f^ E is a high Rock on the IVeJi^ftde the Fort, which may be fecui ed alfo by a tew hand^ ABOUT half a League on the South- ftde the round Table, lies tht Rock caHtd Jeikar, ^^i. e.) jtijber, becaufe many Fiihmg-boats refort to it ; it Weftern 1/tands of Scotland. 169 it is not higher than a final] Veffel under Sail. This Rock affords a great Quantity of Scurvy-grafs, oF an extraordinary Size, and ve- ry thick ; the Natives eat it frequently, as well boil'd as raw : two of them told me that they happened to be confin'd there, for the fpace of thirty hours, by a contrary Wind ; and being without Viftuals, fell to eating this Scur- vy-grafs, and finding it of a fweet Tafte, far different from the Land Scurvy-grafs, they eat a large Basket fill oF it, which did abundantly fatisfy their Appetites unril their return home: They told me alfo that it was not in the leaft windy, or any other way troublefom to them. T S L A M D T»im on the mft of the Wing of Skie^ called Trotemefs, lies within a Mufquet-fhoc of the Caftie of the Name ; it is a hard Rock, and clothed with Grafs ; there are two Caves on the Wejt-fide^ in which abundance of Sea-Ccr- morants build and hatch. ABOUT <; Leagues to the South-weft from Tulm lies the Ifland Jfcrib^ which is divided in- to feveral Parts by the Sea ; it is about two Miles inCompafs, and affords very good Pafturage ; all kind of Fifh abound in the neighbouring Sea. On i\\t South-mft Side of the Ide Jfcrib, at the diffance of two Leagues, lie the two fmall ifies of Timan, dire8:ly in the mouth of Loch-armfort ; they are only fit for Paiiurage. ON 170 ^Description of the ON the Wel^-fide 0^ Vaternis Promontory, within the Mouth of Loch-falUn, lies Ifa, two Miles in Compafs, being fruitful la Corn and Grafs, and is commodious for fifhing of Cod and Ling. T H E R E are two fmall Ifles, called Miffgoj^ on the North-eaft Side of this Ifle, which afford good Pafturage. TH ER E isa red fliort kind oWulfe, grow- ingin the South-end of the Ifle, which occafions a Pain in the Head when eaten, a Property not known in any other Dulfe whatever. THE two \{\es B»ia and Har/as, lie in the Mouth of Loch-Brackadil ; they are both pretty high Rocks, each of them about a Mile in Cir- cumference, they afford good Pafturage, and there are red Currants in thefe fmall Ifles, fuppofed to have been carry'd there at firft by Birds. THE Southern Parts of Skie, as Sleat and Strathf are a Month earlier with their Grafs than the Northern Parts ; and this is the reafon that the Cattle and Sheep, &c. bring forth their Young fooner than in the North- ftde, THE Days in Summer are much longer here than in i\\z South of England, or Scotland^ and the Nights fhorter, which about the Summer Sot- pee Wefiern Ijlands of Scotland. 1 7 1 fiice is not above an hour and an half in length ; and the further we come South, the contrary is to be obferv'd in Proportion. THE Air here is commonly moift and cold ; this difpofes the Inhabitants to take a larger Dofe of Brandy or other ftrong Liquors, than in the South of Scotland, by which they fancy that they qualify the Moifture of the Air ; this is the Opinion of all Strangers, as well as of the Natives, fince the one as well as the other drinks at IcaR treble the Quantity of Brandy in Skie and the adjacent Ifles, that they do in the more Southern Climate. THE Height of the Mountains contributes much to the Moifture of the Place, but more efpecially the Mountain Qutllin, which is the Husbandman's Almanack ; for it is commonly obferv'd, that if the Heavens above that Moun- tain be clear and withcuc ( louds in the Mor- ning, then it is not doubted hue the Weather will prove fair ; & e contra, the Height of that Hill reaching to t\\Q Clouds breaks them, and then they prefently after fall down in great Rsins accot ding as the Wind blows ; thus when the Wind blows from the South^ then all th« Ground lying to iht North of Qu^illtn Hills is wet with Rains, whereas ail the other three Quarters are dry. TH£ 1/2 ^ DeSCRI PTION o/f/;^ THE South-rveji Winds are obferv'd to car- ry more Rain with them than any other, and blow much higher in the moft Northern Point of Skky than they do two Miles further South : for which I could perceive no vifible Gaufe, unlefs it be the Height of the Hill, about two Miles South frorn that Point ; for after we come to the South-Jide of it, the Wind is not per- ceived to be fo high as on the North-fide by half. IT'S obfervedof the Eafi-wwd, that tho it blow but vc y gentle in the Ifle of Skie^ and on the l^^efi-fte of it, for the fpace of about three or four Leagues towards the IVeJi^ yet as we advance more IVefierly^ it is fenfibly higher; and when we come near to theCoaft of the more Wefiern Ifles of VIH, Harries^ See, it is obferv'd to blow very frefli, tho at the fame rime it is alraoft calm on the ff^*?/- ftde the Ifle Skte, The Wind is attended with iair Weather, both in this and other Wejlern Ifles. THE Sea, in time of a Calm, is obferved to have a rifing Motion, before the North-wind blows, which it has not before the approaching of any other Wind. THE North-wind is ftill colder, and more deftrud.ve to Corn, Canle, &c. than any other. WO- Weflern Iflands of Scotland. 1 7 y WOMEN obferve that their Breafts con- trad to a lefTer bulk when the Wind blows from the North ^ and that then they yield lefs Milk,, than when it blows from any other Quarter ; and they make the like obfervation in other Creatures that give Milk. THEY obferve that when the Sea yields a kind of pleafant and fweet Scent, it is a fure prefage of fair Weather to enfue. THE Wind in Summer blows ftronger by Land, than by Sea, and the contrary in Win- ter. I N the Summer, the Wind is fometimes ob- ferved to blow from difTerent Quarters at the fame time: I have ktn two Bo^s fail quite contrary ways, until they came within lefs than a League of each other, and then one of them was becalm'd, and the other continu'd to fail forward. THE Tide of Ebb here runs Southerlj, and the Tide of Flood Northerly^ where no Head Lands or Promontories are in the way to inter- pofe ; for in fiich cafes the Tides are obferved to hold a courfe quite contrary to the ordina- ry motion in the fe I Acs, and the oppofire main Land : This is obferved between the Eafl-ftde of Skie and the oppofue Continent, where the Tide 174 ^ Descriptio N o/ J;^ Tide of Ebb runs Northerly^ and the Tide of Flood Southerly^ as far as KjHach-Jione, on the Soutjj-eaft of Skie ; both Tides running direftly contrary to what is to be feen in all the Weftern Ifles, and oppofite Continent. The Natives at JC^lakifi told me, that they h^d feen three diffe* rent Ebbings fucceflively on that part of She. THE Tide of Ebb is always greater with North-winds, than when it blows from any o- ther Quarter ; and the Tide of Flood is always higher with South-winds^ than any other. THE two chief Spring-tides are on the tenth of September J and on the tenth or twentieth of March. THE Natives are very much difpos'd to ob- ferve the influence of the Moon on human Bo- dies, and for that caufe they never dig their Peats but in the Decreafe ; for they obferve that if they are cut in the Increafe, they continue ffill moift, and never burn clear, nor are they without 5moak, but the contrary is daily ob- ferved of Peats cut in the Incieafe. THEY make up their eirthen Dykes, in the Decreafe only, for fuch as are made at the Increafe are Hill obferved to fall. THEY Weftern I/lands of Scothnd, 175 THEY fell their Timber, and cut their Rufhes in time of the Decreafe. 77;^ T>lfeafes, hriown and not known in SKIE, and the adjacent IJles, TH E Gouty Corns in the Feet, Con-uulfions^ Madnefs^ Fits of the Mother, f^apours, Paljj, Lethargj, RheumatifmSy Wens^ Ganglions^ Kjngs-Evil^ Jgue, Surfeits and Confumptions are not frequent, and Barremefs, and Abortion very rare. THE Difeafes that prevail here are Fevers, Stitches^ Cholick^ Head-ach, Megrim^ Jaundice^ Sciatica, Stone, Smali-Pox, Meaps, Rickets , Scurvy, Worms, Fluxes, Tooth-ach, Cough and S^uinance. THE ordinary Remedies us'd by the Na- tives, are taken from Plants, Roots, Stones, Animals, &c. TO cure a Pleurify, the letting of Blood plentifully, is an ordinary Remedy. WHEY, in which Violets have been boil'd, is us'd as a cooling and refrefhing Drink for fuch as are ill of Fevers. When the Patient has not a Sweat duly, their Shirt is boil'd in Water, 176 JDescri'ption of the Water, and afterwards put on them ; which caufesa fpeedy Sweat. When the Patient is very Coftive, and without paflTage by Stool or Urine, or pafTes the ordinary time of fw^eating in Fevers, two or three handfuls of the Sea-plant call'd Du/fe, bo'iiW in a little Water, and fome frefh Butter' with it, and the Infufion drunk, pro- cures PafTage both ways, and Sweat Ihortly af- ter : The Dalje, growing on Stone, not that on the Seaware, is only pioper in thib cafe. T O procure Sleep after a Fever, the Feet, Knees, and Ancles of the Patient are wafbed in warm Water, into which a good quantity of Chick-weed is put, and afterwards fome of the Plant is applied warm to the Neck, and between the Shoulders, as the Patient goes to Bed. THE tops of Nettles, chop'd fmall, and mixM with a few whites of raw Eggs, applied to the Fore- head and Temples, by way of a Frontel, is usM to procure Sleep, FOXGLOVE, applied warm plaifterwife to the part aftefted, removes pains that follow after Fevers, THE Sea-plant Li»^m^, is usM to procure Sleep, as is mentioned among its Virtues. Wejleni Iflands of Scotland, 1 77 ERICJ'BJCCIFERJ boird a little in Water, and apply'd warm to the Crown of the Head and Temples, is usM likewife as a Reme- dy to procure Sleep. TO remove Stitches^ when letting Blood does not prevail, the part affe£led is rubb'd with an Ointment made of Camomile and frefh Butter, or of Brandy with frefh Butter ; and others apply a Quantity of raw Scurvy-grafs chop'd fmalJ. THE Scarlet-Fever, which appear'd in this Ifle only within thefe two Years Uft, is ordi- narily cur*d by drinking now and then a Glafs of Brandy. If an Infant happen to be taken with it, the Nurfe drinks fome Brandy, which qualifies the Milk, and proves a fuccefsful Re- medy. THE common Alga^ or Sea-Ware, is year-~ ly us'd with Succefs, to manure the Fruit-Trees in Sir Dofiald Maek-DonaU\ Orchard at Armldill : feveral affirm, that if a Quantity of Sea-Ware be us'd about the Roots of Fruit-Trees, whofe Growth IS hinder'd by the Sea-Air, this will make thep grow and produce Fruit. HEAD-AC H is removM by taking raw Duife and Linarich apply'd cold by way of a M Plaifter 178 ^Description of the Plaifter to the Temples. This likewife is us'd as a Remedy to remove the Megrim. THE 'jaundice is curM by the Vulgar, as follows : the Patient being ftripM naked behind to the middle of the Back, he who aGs the Surgeon's part, marks the nth Bone from the Rump on the Back, with a black Stroke, in order to touch it with his Tongs, as mention'd already. SCIATICA is cur'd by applying the Cafe with the Fat of the Carara-fowl, to the Thigh- bone ; and it muft not be remov'd from thence, till the Cure is perform'd. FLJMV LA-JO FIS, or Spre-wort, being €Ut fmall, and a Limpet- fhell filj'd with it, and apply 'd to the Thigh-bone, caufes a Blifter to rife about the Bignefs of an Egg ; which being cur, a Quantity of watry Matter iffues from it : the Blifter rifes three times, and being empty'd as often, the Cure is perform'd. The Sea-plant Limrich is apply'd to the Place, to cure and dry the Wound. CROW-FOOT oUh^ Moor, is more effec- tual for raifing a Blifter, and curing the Sciatica^ than Flawula-Jovu ; for that fometimes fails of breaking, or raifing the Skin, but the Croiv-foot feldom fails. SEVERAL Weftern Iflands of Scotland. 179 SEVERAL of the common People have the Boldnefs to venture upon the t'lamuU-JoviSy inftead of a Purge : they take a ilttle of theln- fufion, and drink it in melted frefh Butter, as the propereft Vehicle ; and this preferves the Throat from being excoriated. FOR the Stone they drink Water-gruel without Salt : They likewife eat Allium^ or wild Garlicky and drink the Infufion of it boil'd in Water, which they find effedual both ways. The Infufion of the Sea-plant Dulfe boiPd, is alfo good againft the Stone ; as is likewife the Broth of Wilks and Limpets : and againfl: the Cho/icky C oft- I've f^efsy and Switches, a Quantity of Scurvy-grafs boil'd in Water with iome frefh Butter added and eaten for fome days, is an effectual Remedy. TO kill Worms, the Infufion of Tanfy in Whey, or Ac[uii.vit£y taken fafting, is an ordi- nary Medicine with the Ijlanders* CA R TO PHTLA TA Alpha Chamedreos fol: It grows on Marble in divers parts, about Chriji-Church in Strath ; never obferv'd before in Britain^ and but once in Ireland^ by Mr. Hia- foff, A/cr//o»'s Hift* Rzy Sjnopjis, I :^ J. CAR MEL, alias Kpaphard, by Mr. Jams Sutherland call'd Argatilis Sjlvatkffs : it has a M 2 blue i8o y^ Description of the blue Flower . in Jft/y ; the Plant it felf is Dot usM, but the Root is eaten to expel Wind : and , they fay it prevents Drunkennefs, by frequent chewing of it ; and being fo us'd, gives a good Relifh to all Liquors, Milk only excepted. It is Jromatick, and the Natives prefer it to Spice, for brewing Jquav/t^e ; the Root will keep for many Years : fome fay that it is Cordial, and allays Hunger. SHVNNIS is a Plant highly valu'd by the Natives, who eat it raw, and alfo boil'd with Fifli, Flefh, and Milk : it is us'd as a So- vereign Remedy to cure the Sheep of the Cough ; the Root eaten fafting, expels Wind .^^ it was not known in Britain, except in the North- rved Ifles, and fome parts of the oppofite Con- tinent. Mr. "James Sutherland fent it to France fome Years ago. A Quantity of wild Sage chew'd between one's Teeth, and put into the Ears of Cows or Sheep that become blind, cures them, and per- fedly reftores their Sight ; of which there are many frelh Inllances both in Skie and Harries, by Perfons of great Integrity. A Quantity of wild Sage chop'd fmall, and eaten by Horfes mix'd with their Corn, kills Worms ; the Horfe muft not drink for lo Hours after eating it. THE Weftern JJlands of Scotland. i 8 i THE Infufion of wild Sage after the fame manner, produces the like eflPeft. WILD Sage cut fmal), and raix'd among Oats given to a Horfe fafting, and kept with- out Drink for feven or eight Hours after, kills "ft^orms. FLVXES are cur'd by taking now and then a fpoonful of the Syrup of blue Berries that grow on the Mertillw. PLANTAIN boilM in Water, and the He5fic-ftone heated red-hot quench'd in the fame, is fuccefsfully us'd for Fluxes. SOME cure the Tooth-achy by applying a little of the Flamula-Jovis^ in a Lmpet-^hd], to the Temples. A Green Turf heated among Embers, as hot as can be endur'd, and by the Patient apply'd to the fide of the Head affefted, is likewife us'd for the Tooth-ach. FOR Coughs and Co/ds, Water-gruel with a little Butter is the ordinary Cure. FOR Coughs and Hoarfnefs^ they ufe to bathe the Feet in warm Water, for the fpace of a quarter of an hour at leaft ; and then rub a M 5 little i82 ^Description of the little Quantity of Deers Greafe (the older the better) to the Soles of their Feet by the Fire ; the Deers Greafe alone is fufEcient in the Morn- ing : and this Method nnuft be continued until the Cure is performed. And it may be us'd by Young or Old, except Women with Child, for the fir ft four Months, and fuch as are troubled with Vapours. HJRTS-TONGVE and Maiden-Hair, boil'd in Wort, and the Ale drunk, is us'd for Coughs and Confumptions, MILK or Water, wherein the HeBic-fione hath been boil'd or quench'd red-hot, and being taken for ordinary Drink, is alfo efficacious a- gainft a Confamptton. THE Hands and Feet often wafh'd in Wa- ter, in which the HeBic-fiom has been boil'd, is efteem'd refl:orative. r ARROW with the HeBic-ftone boil'd in Milk, and frequently drunk, is us'd for Ccn- fumptions. iVJTER-GRVEL is alfo found by Expe- rience to be good for Confumptions ; it purifies the Blood, and procures Appetite, when drunk without Salt. THERE Weflern Iflands of Scotland. 183 THERE is a Smith in the Parifli of Kjl^ mar tin, who is reckon'd a Dodor for curing Faintnefs of the Spirits. This he performs in the following manner: THE Patient being laid on the Anvil with his Face uppermoft, the Smith takes a big Ham- mer in both his Hands, and making his Face all Grimace, he approaches his Patient ; and then drawing his Hammer from the Ground, as if he defign'd to hit him with his full Strength on the Forehead, he ends in a Feint, elfe he would be fure to cure the Patient of all Difeafes : but the Smith being accuftom'd to the Performance, has a Dexterity of managing his Hammer with Difcretion ; the at the fame time he muft do it fo as to ftrike Terror in the Patient : and this they fay has always the de* fign'd Effetl. THE Smith is famous for his Pedegree ; for it has been obferv'd of a long time, that there has been but one only Child born in the Family, and that always a Son, and when he arrived to Man's Eftate, the Father died prefencly after : the prefcnt Smith makes up the thirteenth Generation of that Race of People who are bred to be Smiihs, and all of them pretend to this Cure. M4 I Lie A 184 ^ D E S C R I P T I O N o/ t/?e I Lie J PASS 10, ovTrnfting of the Guts, has been feveral times cur'd by drinking a Draught of cold Water, with a little Oatnieal in it, and then hanging the Patient by the Heels for feme time. The laft Inftance in Skie was by John Morifon, in the Village of Talif- ker, who by this Remedy alone cur'd a Boy of fourteen Years of Age. Dr. FitcAirn told me, that the like Cure had been perform'd in the Shire of Fife for the fame Difeafe. A Ca- tafUfm of hot Dulfe^ with its Juice, apply'd fe- veral times to the lower part of the Belly, cur'd the Iliac Paffion. THE Sea-plant D//^' is us'd, as is faid a- bove, to remove Cholicks ; and to remove that Diftemper and Coftivemfs, a little Quantity of frefh Butter, and fome Scurvy-grafs boil'd, and eaten with its Infufion, is an uiual and effedual Remedy. • A Large handful of the Sea-plant D«^, grow- ing upon Stone, being apply'd outwardly, as is mention'd above, againft the lliaca Paffto, takes away the After -birth with great Eafe and Safety ; this Remedy is to be repeated until it produce tlie defir'd Effect, tho ^. FINLJT ROSS and his Family, in the Parifh of Vge^ having eaten a frefh Ling-Fijh, with brown Spots on its Skin, he and they be- came indifpofed and feverifh for fome few Days, and in a little time after they were blifter'd all over. They fay that when the frefh Ling is fai- led a few days, it has no fuch EfTedi. THERE Wejleni I/lands of Scotland. 191 THERE was a Horfe in the Village Breti/i, which had the EreQion backward, contrary to all other of its Kind. A WEAVER in Ponrie has a Faculty of ereding and letting fall his Ears at pleafure, and opens and fliuts his Mouth on fuch occafions. A BOY in the Caftle of Dumulm, called Mifier to a By-Name, hath a Pain and Swel- ling in his great Toe at every Change of the Moon, and it continues only for the Space of one Day, or two at moft. ALLEN MAC -LEOD being about ten Years of age, was t^ken ill of a Pain which moved from one Part of his Body to another, and where it was felt, the Skin appear'd blue ; it came to his Toe, Thigh, Tefticles, Arms and Head : when the Boy was bath'd in warm Water, he found moil; Eafe. The hinder Part of his Head, which was laft affected, had a lit- tle Swelling ; and a Woman endeavouring to fqueeze the Humour out of it, by bruifing it on each Side with her Nails, ihe forc'd out at the fame time a I'ltth Animal near an Inch ia length, having a white Head fliarp pointed, the reft of its Body of a red Colour, and full of fmall Feet on each fide. Animals of this fort have been feen in the Head and Legs of feveral ipi ^Description of the feveral Perfons in the Ifles, and are diftinguifh'd by the Name of FilUn. Yeajl^ how pre/erVd hy the Natbes, ' AROD of Oak, of four, five, fix or eight Inches about, cwiited round like a Wyth boird in Wort, well dried and kept in a Jittle Bundle of Barley-Straw, and being fteep'd again in Wort, caufeth it to ferment, and procures Teafi : the Rod is cut before the Middle of A/47, and is frequently us'd to furnilL Teafi ; and being preferved and us*d in this manner, it ferves for many Years together. I* have feen the Experi- ment try'd, and was fliew'd a Piece of a thick Wyth, which hath been prefer v'd for making Ale with, for about twenty or thirty years. 7h Weftern IJlands of Scotland, 1 9 5 The EjfeEis of eating Hemhchc^ot, FERGVS K,A1RD an Empirick, living in the Village Talisker, having by a mif- take catena Hemlock-Root, inftead of the white Wild Carrot ; his Eyes did prefently roll about, his Countenance beqme very pale, his Sight had almoft failM him,; the Frame of his Body was all in a ftrange Convulfion, and his Pude»da retir'd fo inwardly, that ihere was no difcerning whether he had then been Male or Female, All the Remedy given him in this State was a draught of hot Milk, and a little JquA-f^ita added to it; which he no fooner drank, but he vomited prefently after, yet the Root ftill remain'd in his Stomach. They continu'd to adminifter the fame Remedy for the fpace of four or five hours together, but in vain ; and about an hour after they ceas'd to give him any thing, he voided the Root by Stool, and then was reftor'd to his former flate of health : he is ftill living, for any thing I know, and is of a ftrong healthful Confti- tution. SOME few years ago, all the Flax in the Barony of Trotemefs was over-run with a great quantity of Green Worms, which in a few days would have deftroyM it, had not a Flock of Ravens made a Tour round the N ground 194 ^ D E S C R I P T 1 O N o/ t^e ground where the Flax grew, for the fpace of fourteen Miles, and eat up the Worms in a very Ihort time. THE Inhabitants of thislfle are generally well proportion'd, and their Complexion is for the nnofl: part black. They are not oblig'd to Art in forming their Bodies, for Nature ne- ver fails to aQ- her part bountifully to them; and perhaps there is no part of the habitable Globe where fo few bodily ImperfeQions are to be feen, nor any Children that go more early. I have obferv'd feveral of them walk alone before they were ten Months old : they are bath'd all over every Morning and Evening, fome in cold, fome in warm Water ; but .the latter is moft commonly us'd, and they wear nothing ftrait about them. The Mother gene- rally fuckks the Child, failing of which, a Nurfe is provided, for they feldom bring up any by hand : they give New-born Infants frefh Butter to take away the Miconium^ and this they do for feveral days ; they tafte nei- ther Sugar, nor Cinamon, nor have they any daily allovvance of Sack beftowed on them, as the Cuftom is elfewhere, nor is the Nurfe al- lowed to tafte Ale. THE Generality wear neither Shoes nor Stockings before they are feven, eight or ten years old ; and many among them wear no Night-Caps before they are lixteen years old, and Wejlern I/Iands of Scothnd. 195 and upwards ; fome ufe none all their life-time, and thefe are not fo liable to Headaches, as o- thers who keep their Heads warm. THEY ufe nothing by way of prevention of Sicknefs, obferving it as a Rule to do little or nothing of that nature. The Abftemiouf- nefs of the Mothers is no fmall advantage to the Children : they are a very prolifick Peo- ple, fo that many of their numerous liTue muft feek their Fortune on the Continent, and not a few in Foreign Countries, for want of Imploy- ment at home. When they are any way fa- tigu'd by Travel, or otherways, they fail not to bathe their Feet in warm Water, wherein red Mofs has been boil'd, and rub them with it going to Bed. THE antient Cuftom of rubbing the Body by a warm hand oppofite to the Fire, is now laid a fide, except from the lower part of the Thigh, downwards to the Ancle; this they rub before and behind, in cold weather, and at going to Bed. Their fimple Diet contributes much to their State of Health, and long Life ; feveral among them of my Acquaintance arriv'd at the Age of Eighty, Ninety, and upwards ; but the Lady Mack-Leod liv'd to the Age of one hundred and three years : fhe had then a comely head of Hair, and a cafe of good Teeth, and always enjoy'd the free ufe of her Underftand- ing, until the Week in which fhe died. N 3 THE \^6 >4 Description of the THE Inhabitants of this and all the W^f- tcrn Ifles, do wear their Shoes after Mr. Lock^s mode, in his Book of Education ; and among other great advantages by it, they reckon thefe two, 1 hat they are never troubled with the Gout, or Corns in their Feet. THEY lie for the moft part on Beds of Straw, and fome on Beds of Heath ; which latter being made after their way, with the tops uppermoft, are almoftas foft as a Feather- bed, and yield a pleafant fcent after lying on 'em once. The Natives by experience have found it to be effectual for drying fuperfluous Hu- mours, and ftrengthning the Nerves. It is very refrefhing after a Fatigue of any kind. The Pi^h are faid to have had an Art of Brew- ing curious Ale with the tops of Heath, but- they refus'd to communicate it to the Scots, and fo 'tis quite loft. A NATIVE of this Ifle requires treble the Dofe of Phyfick that will ferve one living in the South of Scotland for a Purge; yet an Iflander is eafier purged in the South, than at home. Thofe of the beft Rank are eafier wrought on by purging Medicines, than the Vulgar. THE Inhabitants are of all People eafieft cured of green Wounds ; they are not fo liable CO Weftent IJIands of Scotland. i ^7 to Fevers as others on fuch Occafions ; and there- fore they never cut off Arm, or Leg, tho never fo ill broke, and take the freedom to ven-.ure on all kind of Meat and Drink, contrary to all Rule in fuch cafes, and yet commonly recover of their Wounds. MANY of the Natives, upon occafion of ficknefs, are difpofed to try Experiments, in which they fucceed fo well, that I could not hear of theleaft Inconvenience attending their Praftice. I fhall only bring one Inftance more of this, and that is of the illiterate Empirick Neil Beaton in Skie ; who of late is fo weU known in the Ifles and Continent, for his great fuccefs in curing feveral dangerous Diflempers, tho he never appeared in the quality of a Phyfi' cian until he arrived at the Age of Forty Years, and then alfo without the advantage of Educa- tion. He pretends to judg of the various quali- ties of Plants, and Roots, by their different Taftes; he has like wife a nice Obfervation of the Colours of their Flowers, from which he learns their aftringent and loofening qualities: he ex- tracts the Juice of Plants and Roots, after a Chymical way, peculiar to hitnfelf, and with little or no charge. HE confiders his Patients Conftitution be- fore any Medicine is adminiffred to them ; and he has form'd fuch a Syftem for curing Difeafes, as ferves for a Rule to him upon all Occafions of this nature. N 3 HE ipS ^Description of the H E treats Riveriui'^s Lilium Medicinx^ and fome other Praftical Pieces that he has heard of, with Contempt ; fince in feveral Inftances it ap- pears that their Method of Curing has fail'd, where his had good Succefs. SOME of the Difeafes cured by him areas follows : Running Sores in Legs and Arms, grievous Head-aches ; he had the boldnefs to cut a piece out of a Woman's Skull broader than half a Crown, and by this reftored her to perfed Health. A Gentlewoman of my Ac- quaintance having contra^ed a dangerous Pain in her Belly, fome days after her Deliverey of a Child, and feveral Medicines being us'd, file was thought paft recovery, if (he continued in that Condition a few hours longer ; at lafl; this Doftor happen'd to come there, and being imploy'd, apply'd a Simple Plant to the part affefted, and reftored the Patient in a quarter of an hour after the Application. O N E of his Patients told me that he fent him a Cap interlined with fome Seeds, &c, to wear for the Cough, which it remov'd in a Jitrle time ; and it had the like effeft upon his Brother. THE Succefs attending this Man's Cures was fo extraordinary , that feveral People thought his Performances to have proceeded rather i Wejlern IJlands of Scotland. 199 rather from a Compaft with the Devil,than from the Virtue of Simples. To obviate this, Mr. Benton pretends to have had feme Education from his Father, tho he died when he himfelf was but a Boy. I have difcoursM him feri- cufly at different times, and am fully fatisfied, that he ufes no unlawful means for obtaining his end. HIS Difcourfe of the feveral Conftitutions, the Qualities of Plants, &c. was more folid than could be expeded from one of his Educa- tion. Several fick People from remote Ides came to him ; and fome from the Shire of Ko/x, at 70 Miles diftance, fent for his Advice: I left him very fuccefsful, but can give no further Account of him fince that time. THEY are generally a very fagacious Peo- ple, quick of Apprehenfion, and even the Vul- gar exceed all thofe of their Rank, and Educa- tion, I ever yet faw in any other Country. They have a great Genius for Mufick and Me- chanicks. I have obferved feveral of their Children, that, before they could fpeak, were capable to dift inguifh and make choice of one Tune before another upon the Violin ; for they appear'd always uneafy until the Tune which they fancied beft was play'd, and then they ex- prefs'd their fatisfaftion by the motions of their Head and Hands. N4 THERE 200 ^Description o/tk THERE are feveral of 'em, who invent Tunes very taking in the South of Scotland^ and elfewhere; feme Muficians have endea- voured to pafs for fir ft Inv enters of them by changing their Name, but this has been imprac- ticable; for whatever Language gives the mo- dern Name, the Tune ftill continues to fpeak its true Original : and of this I have been Ihew'd feveral Inftances. SOME of the Natives are very dextrous in engraving Trees, Birds, Deer, Dogs, &c. up- on Bone, and Horn, or Wood, without any o- ther Tool than a fharp-pointed Knife. SEVERAL of both Sexes have a quick Vein of Poefy, and in their Language (which is very Emphatick) they compofe Rhyme and Verfe, both which powerfully affeft the Fancy : And in my Judgment (which is not fingular in this mattei) with as great force as that of any antientor modern Poet I ever yet read. They have generally very retentive Memories, they fee things at a great diftance. The unhappinefs of their Education, and their want of Converfe with foreign Nations, deprives them of the op- portunity to cultivate and beautify their Genius, which feems to have been form'd by Nature for great Attainments. And on the other hand, their Retirednefs may be rather thought an ad- vantage, at leaft to their better part; accord- ing Wejlern JJlands of Scotland. 201 ing to that of the Hiftorian ; Plus valuit apad hos Ignorantia Vitiorum, quam apud Gr^cos om» nia precept a Philofo^horum : The Ignorance of Vices is more powerful among thofe, than all the Precepts of Philofophy are among the Greeks, FOR they are to this day happily ignorant of many Vices that are pradifed in the Learned and Polite World : I could mention feveral, for which they have not as yet got a Name, or fo much as a Notion of them. THE Diet generally us'd by the Natives, confifts of frefh Food, for they feldom tafte any thatis falted, except Biirter ; the generality eat but little Flefh, and only Perfons of diftin&on eat it every day, and make three Meals, for all the reft eat only two, and they eat more BoiI'd than Roafted. Their ordinary Diet is Butter, Cheefe, Milk, Potatoes, Col worts, Brochan i. e. Oatmeal and Water boil'd ; the latter taken with fome Bread is the conftant Food of feveral Thoufands of both Sexes in this and other Ifles, during the Winter and Spring : yet they undergo many Fatigues both by Sea and Land, and are very healthful. This veri- fies what the Poet faith, Populis fat e(i Lym- ph aque Cerefque : Nature is fatisfied with Bread and Water. THERE 202 ^Description of the THERE is no Place fo well ftored with fuch great quantity of good Beef and Mutton, where fo little of both is confum'd by eating. They generally life no fine Sauces to entice a falfe Appetite, nor Brandy, or Tea for Di- geflion ; the pureft Water fefves them inSfuch Cafes : this together with their ordinary Exer- cife, and the free Air, preferves their Bodies and Minds in a regular Frame, free from the; various Convulfions that ordinarily attend Luxu- ry. There is not one of them too Corpulent, nor too Meagre. THE Men-Servants have always double the quantity of Bread, &c^ that is given to Wo- men-Servants, at which the latter are no ways offended, in regard of the many Fatigues by Sea and Land, which the former undergo. 00 N, which in Englijb fignifies Froth, is a Difh us'd by feveral of the I/taftders, and fome en the oppofite Main-Land, in time of Scarcity, when they want Bread : it is made in the fol- lowing manner ; A quantity of Milk or Whey is boil'd in a Pot, and then it is wrought up to the mouth of the Pot with a long Stick of Wood, having a Crofs at the lower-end ; it is turn'd about like the Stick for making Choco- late : and being thus made, it is fupp'd with Spoons. It is made up five or fix times, in the fame manner, and the laft is always reckon'd befl:, and Wefiern IJlands of Scotland, loj and the firft two or three frothings the worft : the Milk or Whey that is in the bottom of the Pot is reckon'd much better in all refpefts than fimple Milk. It may be thought that fuch as feed after this rate, are not fit for Aftion of any kind ; but I have feen feveral that liv'd up- on this fort of Food, made of Whey only, for fome Months together, and yet they were able to undergo the ordinary Fatigue of their Imploy- ments, whether by Sea or Lan'd : and I have feen them travel to the tops of high Mountains, as briskly as any I ever faw. SOME who live plentifully,make thIsDifhas abovefaid of Goats Milk, which is faid to be nou- rifhing ; the Milk is thickned, and taftes much better after fo much working : fome add a little Butter and Nutmeg to it. I was treated with this Difh in feveral Places, and being ask'd whe- ther this faid Difh'or Chocolate was beft, I told them that if we judged by the EfFefts, this Difh was preferable to Chocolate ; for fuch as drink often of the former, enjoy a better ftate of Health, than thofe who ufe the latter. Craddan. 104 ^ D E S C R I P T 1 0 N o/ r/;e . Graddan, TH E anticnt way of dreflTing Corn, which is yet us'd in feveral Ifles, is callM Graddan, from the Irifh word Grad; which fignifies quick. A Woman fitting down, takes a handful of Corn, holding it by the Stalks in her left hand, and then fets fire to the Ears, which are prefently in a flame : fhe has a Stick in her right hand, which fhe manages very dex xufly, beating off the Grain at the very inftai ■, when the Husk is quite burnt; for if fhe n) fs of that, (lie mufl: ufe the Kiln, but E^perj^nce has taught them this Art to per- feQion The Corn may be fo drefTed, win- nowed, ground, and baked, within an Hour af- ter reaping from the Ground. The Oat bread drefied as above is loofening, and that dfefs'd in the Kiln aflringent, and of greater ftrength for Labourers : But they love the Graddan, as being more agreeable to their Tafte. This barbarous Cuftom is much laid afide, fince the number of their Mills encreas'd. Captain Fairtveather, Mafter of an Englifh Veflel, having dropt Anchor at Bernera of Glemlg over againft Skie^ faw two Women at this Imploymenr, and wondring to fee fo much Flame and Smoak, he came near, and finding that it was Corn they burnt, he run away in great hafte, telling the Natives that he Weflern Ijlmds of Scotland. 20 j he had feen two mad Women very bufy burn- ing Corn : the People came to fee what the matter was, and laugh'd at the Captain's Mif- take, tho he was not a little furpriz'd at the Strangenefs of a Cuflom that he had never feen or heard of before. THERE are two Fairs of late held yearly at Fortry on the Eaft-fide of Skie : tlie Conve- nience of the Harbour, which is in the middle of the Ifle, made 'em chufe this for the firreft Place. The fir ft holds about the middle of June^ the fecond about the beginning ot Sep- tember. The various Produds of this and the adjacent Ifles and Continent, are fold here : viz., Horfes, Cows, Sheep, Goats, Hides, Skins, Butter, Cheefe, Fifh, Wool, &c. ALL the Horfes and Cows, fold at the Fair, fwim to the main Land over one of the Ferries or Sounds callM /Cj/^^ ; one of which is on the Eaft, the other on the South-fide of Skie, That on the Eaft is about a Mile broad, and the other on the South is half a Mile : They begin when it is near low Water, and faften a twifted Wyth about the lower Jaw of each Cow, the other end of the Wyth is faf- ten'd to another Cow's Tail, and the Number fo tied together is commonly five. A Boat with four Oars rows off, and a Man fitting in the Stern, holds the Wyth in his Hand to keep up the fpr^moft Cow's Head ; and thus all the five 20^ ^Description of the • RvQ Cows fwim as faft as the Boat rows : and in this manner above an hundred may be fer- Fied over in one day. Thefe Cows are fome- times drove above 400 Miles further South; they foon grow fat, and prove fweet and ten- der Beef. Their Habit, THE firft Habit wore by Perfons of Dif- tinftion in the Iflands, was the Lem- Crotch, from the Irijb word Lem, which fig- nifies a Shirr, and Crotch Saffron, becaufe their Shirt was dyed with that Herb : the ordinary number of Ells us'd to make this Robe, was twenty four ; it was the upper Garb, reaching below the Knees, and was tied with a Belt round the middle : but the Iflanders have laid it a fide about a hundred Years ago. THEY now generally ufe Coat, Waftcoat, and Breeches, aselfewhere ; and on their Heads wear Bonnets made of thick cloth, fome blue, fome black, and fome grey. MANY of the People wear Trowu: fome have them very fine woven like Stockings of thofe made of Cloth -, fome are coloured, and Wefteni Ijlands of Scotland. 207 and others ftriped : the latter are as well fhap'd as the former, lying clofe to the Body from the middle downwards, and tied round with a Belt above the Haunches. There is a fquare Piece of Cloth which hangs down be- fore. The Meafure for fliaping the Trorvis is a Stick of Wood, whofe Length is a Cubit, and that divided into the Length of a Finger, and half a Finger ; fo that it requires more Skill to make it, than the ordinary Habit. THE Shoes antiently wore, were a piece of the Hide of a Deer, Cow, or Horfe, with the Hair on, being tied behind and before with a Point of Leather. The generality now wear Shoes, having one tVin Sole only, and fhaped after the right and left Foot ; fo that what is for one Foot, will not ferve the other. BUT Perfons of Diftin(9:ion wear the Garb in fafhion in the South of Scotland. THE Plad wore only by the Men, is made of fine Wool, the Thred as fine as can be made of that kind ; it confirts of divers Co- lours, and there is a great deal of Ingenuity requir'd in forting the Colours, fo as to be a- grceable to the niceft Fancy. For this reafon the Women are at great pains, firft to give an exafl: Pattern of the PUd upon a piece of Wood, having the number of every Thred of the jo8 J Description o/^k the Stripe on it. The Length of it is common- ly feven double Ells ; the one end hangs by the Middle over the left Arm, the other going round the Body, hangs by the end over the left Arm alfo: the right Hand above it is to be at liberty to do any thing upon occafion. Every Ifle differs from each other in their Fancy of making P/4^j, as to the Stripes in Breadth, and Colours. This Humour is as different thro the main Land of the HighUnds^ in-fo-far that they who have feen thofe Places, are able, at the. firft View of a Man's PUdj to guefs the Place of his Refidence. \^HEN they travel on foot, the FUd is tied on the Breaft with a Bodkin of Bone or Wood (juft as the S^wa. wore by the Germans^ according to the Defcription of C. Tacitii^ : ) the PUd is tied round the middle with a Leather Belt ; it is pleated from the Belt to the Knee very nicely : this Drefs for Footmen is found much eafier and lighter than Breeches^ or Trowis. THE antient Drefs wore by the Women, and which is yet wore by fome of the Vulgar, called Arifad^ is a white Plxd^ having a few fmall Stripes of black, blue, and red ; it reach'd from the Neck to the Heels, and was tied before on the Breaft with a Buckle of Silver, or Brafs, according to the Quality of the Perfon, I have feen fome of the former of Weftei^n Iflands of Scotland. 209 of an hundred Marks value; it was broad as any orilinary Pewter Plate, the whole curi- oufly engraven with various Animals, &c. There was a lefler Buckle, which was wore in the middle of the larger, and above two Oun- ces weight ; it had in the Cenrer a large piece of Chryftal, or fome finer Sfone, and this was fet all round with feveral finer Stones of a lefler fize. THE ?Ui being pleated all round, was tied with a Belt below the Breaft ; the Belt was of Leather, and feveral Pieces of Silver inter- mixed with the Le(ather like a Chain. The Iov*'er end of the feelt has a Piece' of Plate a- bout eight Inches long and three in breadth, curioufly engraven ; the end of which was adorried with fine Stones, or Pieces of Re4 Cora!. They wore Sleeves" of Scarlet Cloth, closed' it the end as'Mens Vefts, with Gold Lace round 'ecn, haying Plate Burtons fet with fine Sfones. The Head-drefs was a fine Kjr^ chtef of Linen ftrait about the Head,- hanging down the Back taper- vVife ; a large Lock of Hair hangs down their Cheeks above their Br.aft, the lower end. ti^d \^ith a Knot of Ribbands. '" 'i*^' ,"V,;..;,4 THE Iflindefs have a great refpe^ for their Chiefs and Heads of Tribes, and they conclude Grace after every Meal, with a Petition to God for their Welfare and Profperity. Nei« O ther 210 ^ Description o/tfce ^her will they, as far as in them lies, fufFer them to fink under any Misfortune ; but in cafe of a Decay of Eftate, make a voluntary Contribu- tion on their behalf, as a common Duty, to fup- port the Credit of their Families. Way fo Fighting. THE antient way of Fighting was by fee Battles ; and for Arms fome had broad two-handed Swords and Head-pieces, and o- thers Bows and Arrows. When all their Ar- rows were fpent, they attack'd one another with Sword in hand. Since the Invention of Guns, they are very early accuftomed to ufe them, and cany their Pieces with them wherc- ever they go : They likewife learn to handle the broad Sword and Target. The Chfef of each Tribe advances with his Followers within fliot of the Enemy, having firft laid afide their up- per Garments ; and after one general Difcharge, they attack them with Sword in hand, having their Target on their left Hand (as they did at Kj Iter inky) which foon brings the Matter to an IfTue, and verifies the Obfervation made of 'em your Hifl;orians : Jut Mors cifOy atit Vi^orU Uta. THIS Weftern JJJands of Scotland. 1 1 1 l" H 1 S Ifle is divided into three Parts, w^iich are pofleffed by different Proprietors. The Southern part call'd SUit, is the Property and Title of Sir Do^iald Mack-Donald^ Knight and Baronet: his Family is always didinguifh'd from all the Tribes of hi^ Name, by the Iripj as well as Euglifb^ and csll'd Mack-Donald abfolutely, and by way of Excellence; he being rcckon'd by Gemalogiftsj and all others, the fid for Antiquity among aU the Antient Tribes, both in the Ifles and Continent. He is lineally defcended from SommerUd^ who, according to Buchana?iy was Thane of Argyle, He got the Ifles into his PofTeflion by virtue of his Wife's Right; his Son was call'd Do- nald^ and from him all the Families of the Name Mack-Donald are defcended. He was the firft of that Name, who had the Tide of King of the Ifles. One of that N^me fub- fcribing a Charter granted by the King of ^cots to the Family of Roxburgh^ writes as follows : Donald^ Kjng of the IJles, IVitnefs. He would not pay homage to the King for the ;fles, but only for the Lands which he held of him on the Continent. ONE bf Donald^s SuccelTors married a Daughter of King Robert the Second, the firft of, the Name of Stuart ^ by whom he acquired feveral Lands in the Highlands. The Earl- dom of Rofs came to this Family, by marrying O 2 the 212 ^Description of the the Heirefs of the Houfe of Lejlj, One of the Earls of Rofs^ called John, being of an eafy Temper, and too liberal to the Church, and to his Vaffals and Friends, his Son jE- ncM (by Buchanan called Donald) was fo oppofite to his Father's Conduft, that he ga- thered together an Army to oblige him from giving away any more of his Eftate. The Father rais'd an Army againft his Son, and fought him at Sea, on the Coaftof Mull-, the Place is fince called the Bloodj-Baj : the Son however had the Viftory, This difpofed the Father to go ftraight to the King, and make over the Right of all his Eftate to him. The Son kept poffeflion fome time after ; however, this occafion''d the Fall of that great Family, tho there are yet extant feveral an- tient Tribes of the Name, both in the Ifles and Continent. Thus far the Genealogift Mack-Vurichf and Hugh Mack-DonaU, in their Manufcripts. THE next adjacent Part to Slait, and join- ing it on the North-fide, is Strath ; it is the Property of the Laird oi Mack-Kjnnon^ Head of an antient Tribe. ON the North- Weft fide of Strath lies that part of Skie called Mackleodh Country, poflefled by Mackleod. Genealogifts fay he is lineally defcended from Leod, Son to the black Wejlern JJlands of Scotland. 1 1 3 black Frince of Man ; he is Head of an antient Tribe. THE Barony of Trotermfs on the North fide Skie^ belongs to Sir Donald Mack- Donald ; the Proprietors and all the Inhabitants are Fro- teftants, except twelve, who are Roman Catho- tholicks. The former obfervc the Feftivals of ChriJlmaSy Eafier^ Good- Friday^ and that of St. Michael^. Upon the latter they have a Caval- cade in each Parifb, and feveral Families bake the Cake cali'd St. Michael's Bannock, O 3 yntyre^ in the op- pofite Main land. The Ifle is high and moun- tainous, but flopes on each fide round the Coaft, and the Glen is only made ufe of for Til- lage. Th& Mountains near Brodick-Bay are of a confiderable height ; all the Hills generally af- ford a good Fafturage, tho a great part of 'em be covered only with Heath. THE Mould here is of divers Colours, being black and brown near the Hills, and clayey and fandy upon the Coaft. THE 2i8 ji Description of the THE Natives told me that fomc Places of the Ifle afford Fullers- Earth. The Coaft on the Ea^ fide is rocky near the Shore, the Stones on the Coaft, for fome Miles beneath Brodick^ are all of a red Colour, and of thefe the Caftle of Brodick is built. The Natives fay that the Mountains near the Caftle of Bro- dick afford Chryftal, and that the Dutchefs of Hamilton put fo great a Value on it, as to be at the Charge of cutting a Necklace of it ; which the Inhabitants take as a great Honour done them, becaufe they have a great Veneration for her Grace. There is no confiderablc Woods here, but a few Coppices, yet that in the Glen towards the Weft is above a Mile in length. There are capacious Fields of Arable Ground on each fide Brodick-Bzy^ as alfo on the oppo- fite Weftern Coaft. The largeft and beft Field for Pafturage is that on the South-mfi fide. SEVERAL Rivers on each fide this Ifle af- ford Salmon, particularly the two Rivers on the IVefl called Mackir fide, and the two in I(Jrkmichel and Brodick Bay. THE Air here is temperately cold and moift, which is in fome meafure qualified by the freOi Breezes that blow from the Hills, but the Natives think a Dram of Strong- waters is a good Corredive. THERE Wejiern Jpands of Scotland. 219 THERE are feveral Caves on the Coaft of this Ifle : thofe on the Wefi are pretty large, par- ticularly that in Druim-cruej, a hundred Men may fit or lie in it ; it is contradled gradually from the Floor upwards to the Roof. In the up- per-end there is a large piece of Rock form'd like a Pillar ; there's engraven on it a Deer, and underneath it a two-handed Sword ; there is a void fpace on each fide this Pillar. THE South-fide of the Cave has a Horfc- fhoe engraven on it. On each fide the Door, there's a hole cut out, and that they fay was for holding big Trees, on which the Caldrons hang for boiling their Beef and Venifon. The Natives fay that this was the Cave in which Fw- MaC'Cou I lodged during the time of his refidence in this Ifie, and that his Guards lay in the lefTer Caves, which are near this big one ; there is a little Cave joining to the largelt, and this they call the Cellar. THERE is a Cave fome Miles more South- erly on the fame Coaft, and they told me that the Minifter preached in it fometimes, in regard of its being more centrical than the Parifh- Church SEVERAL eref^ed Stones are to be feen on each fide this Ifle : four of thefe are near BroMck' Bay, about the diftance of 70 Yards froni 2 20 ^ Description o/t^e from the River, and are feven foot high each. The higheft of thefe Stones that fell under my obfervaiion was on the South-fide of [(Jrkmichel River, and is above fifteen Foot high; there is a Stone Coffin near it, which has been filPd with human Bones, until of late that the River wafhed away the Earth, and the Bones that were in the Coffin : Mac-Louis ^ who had feen them, fays they were of no larger fize than thofe of our own time. On the Weft fide there are three Stones erefted in Baeliimimch, and a fourth at fome diftance from thefe, about fix Foot high each. In the Moor on the Eaft-fide Druim-cruey^ there is a Circle of Stones, the Area is about thirty Paces ; there is a Stone of the famefhape and kind about forty Paces to the Wejt of the Circle : the Natives fay that this Circle was made by the Giant Fin-MacCoul^ and that to the fingle Stone, Bran^ Fin- Mac- CouPs Hunting-dog, was ufually tied. About half a Mile to the North-fide Baellminkh there are two Stones ereded, each of thera eight Foot high. THERE k a Circle of big Stones a little to th^ South of Druim-cruey^ the Area of which is about twelve Faces; there is a broad thin Stone in the middle of this Circle, fupported by three lefTer Stones : the antient Inhabitants are reported to have burnt their Sacrifices on the broad Stone, in time of Heathenifm. THERE Wejlern Jftands of Scotland. 2 2 1 .:■ THERE is a thin broad Stone tapering to- wards the top, erefted within a quarter of a Jllile of the Sea, near Machir River, and is nine Foot high, and at iome little diftance frono the River, theie is a large Cavern of Stones. THERE is an Eminence of about a thou- fand Paces in Compafs on the Sea«Coaft in Dru^ im-cruey Village, and it is fenced about with a Stone- Wall: or old itwasa Sanduary,and what- ever number of Men or Cattle could get with- in it, were fecured from the affauhs of their E- nemies, the Flace being privileged by Univer- fal Confenc. THE only good Harbour in this Ifle is Lam- hjby which is in the South- eaft end of the Ille of that Name. T H E R E is a great fifliing of Cod, and Whl^ ting^ in and about this Bay, THE whole Ifle is defign'd by Nature more for Pafturage. than Cultivation ; the Hifls are generally covered all over with Heath, and pro- duce a mixture of the £r/V4-B^^f//>r4, Cats-tail^ and Juniper^ all which are very agreeable to the Eye in the Summer. The highell Hills of this Ifland are feen at a confiderable diflance from feveral parts of the Continent and North- weji Ifles, and they ferve inftead of a Foreft to maintain til ^ Description of the maintain the Deer, which are about four hun- dred in number, and they are carefully kept by a Forefter, to give fport to the Dukeof Hamit fon^ or any of his Family that go a Hunting there. For if any of the Natives happen to kill a Deer without Licence, which is not often granted, he is liable to a Fine of 20 /. Scots for each Deer. And when they grow too nume- rous, the Forefter grants Licences for killing a certain number of them, on condition they fcring the Skins to himfelf. THE Cattle here are Horfes and Cows of a middle fize, and they have alfo Sheep and Goats. This Ifle affords the common Sea and Land-Fowls that are to be had in iht Wejier» Ifles. The black Cock is not allow'd to fee killed here without a Licence- theTranf- grelTors are liable to a Fine. THE Caftle of Brodick, on the North Jide of the Bay of that Name, ftands on a Plain, from which there is about 400 Paces of a gradual defcent towards the Sea. THIS Caftle is built in a long Form ; from South to North there is a Wall of two Stories high, that encompafTes the Caftle and Tower: the fpace within the Wall on the South-fide the Caftle, is capable of muftring a Battalion of Men. THE Wefiern JJIands of Scotland. 223 , THE Caftle is four Stories high, and has A Tower of great height joined to the Nonh- fide, and that has a Baftion clofe to it, to which a lower Baftion is added. The South and Wefi fides are furrounded with a broad wet Ditch, but the EaH and North fides have a defcent which will not admit of a wet Ditch. The Gate looks to the Eaft, This Caftle is the Duke of Haf»iltofr*s Scat f when his Grace or any of the Family make their Summer Vifit to this Ifland. The Bayliff or Steward has his Refidence in this Caftle, and he has a Deputa- tion to aft with full power to levy the Rents, give Leafes of the Lands, and hold Courts of Juflice. THER E is another Caftle belonging to the Duke in the North-fUe of the Ifle, at the head of Loch'KjmJiil^ in which there is a Harbour for Barks and Boats. The Ifle of Arran is the Duke of Hamilton's Property (a very fmall part excepted) it lies in the Sheriffdom of Boop^ and made part of the Diocefs of Jrgyle, THE Inhabitants of this Ifland are compo- fed of feveral Tribes. 7 he moft antient Fa- mily among them, is by the Natives reckon'd to be Mack-Louuy which in the antient Lan- guage fignifies the Son of Lewis: they own themfelvesto be defcended of French Parentage, their Sirname in Engltjh is Fulkrton^ and their Title 124 ^Description of th Title Kjrk-Michell, the Place of their Refidcnce. If Tradition be true, this Jittic Family is (aid to be of 700 years ftanding. The prefent PbflTef- »ibr oblig'd me with the fight of his old and new Charters, by which he is one of the King's Co- roners within this Ifland, and as fuch, he hath a Halbert peculiai^ to his Office; he has his right of late from the Family of Humilton^ wherein his Title and Perquifites of Coroner are confirm'd to him and his Heirs. He is ob- lig'd to have three Men to attend him upon all publick Emergencies, and he is bound by his Office to purfue all Malefactors, and to dt- , liver them to the Steward, or in his abfence to ihe next Judg. And if any cf the Inhabitants refufe to pay their Rents at the ufual teim, the Coroner is bound to take him perfonally, or to feize his Goods. And if it fhould happen that the Coroner with his Retinue of three Men is not fufficient to put his Office , in Execution, then he fummons all the Inhabitants to concur With him ; and inimediately they rendezvous to the place, where he fixes his Coroner's Staff. The Perquifites due to the Coroner area Firlet or Bufhel of Oats, and a Lamb from every Village in the Ifle ; both which are punftualjy paid him at the ordinary Terms. THE Inhabitants of this Ifle are well pro- portion'd, generally brown, and fome of a black Complexion ; they enjoy a good flate of Health, and have a Genius for all Callings or Imploy- Weftern I/lands of Scotland. 225 Imployments, tho they have but few Mecha- nicks : they wear the fame Habit with thofe of the neareft Ifles, and are very Civil ; they all fpeak the Iri/h Language, yet the Englifh Tongue prevails on the Eaf-fide^ and ordinarily the Minifters preach in it, and in Irt(h on the Weji'ftde. Their ordinary AfTeveration' is by Ndle, for I did not hear any Oath in the Ifland. The Churches In this IJJe are^ KILBRIDE in the South-Eaft, Kjlmore in the South, CabeLVual a Chappel, Kjl- michel in the Village of that name, St. Jameses Church at the North end. THE Natives are all Proteftants, they ob- ferve the Feftivals o{ Chriflmas, Good-Friday, and Eafter. I had like to have forgot a valu- able Curiofity in this Ifle, which they call Baul Mulujy i.e. Molingm his Stone Globe: this Saint was Chaplain to Mack-Donald of the Ifles; his Name is celebrated here on the ac- count of this Globe, fo much efleem'd by the Inhabitants. This Stone for its intrinfick value has been carefully tranfmitted to Pofterity for feveral Ages. It is a green Stone much like a Globe in Figure, about the bignefs of a GoolisL- Egg. P THE 2 26 ^ Description o/t/;e THE Vertue of it is to ^remove Stitches from the fides of fick Perfons, by laying it clofe to the Place affe£]:ed ; and if the Patient does not out-live the Diftemper, they fay the Stone re- moves out of the Bed of its own accord, and e contra. The Natives ufe this Stone for fwear- ing decifive Oathsupon.it. THEY afcribe another extraordinary Ver- tue to it, and 'tis this : The credulous Vulgar firmly believe that if this Stone is caft among the Front of an Enemy, they will all run away ; and that as often as the Enemy rallies, if this Stone is caft among them, they ftill lofe Cou- rage, and retire. They fay that Mack-Donald of the Ifles carried this Stone about him, and that Viclory was always on his fide when he threw it among the Enemy. The Cuftody of this Globe is the peculiar Privilege of a little Family calkd Clan-ChattoftSy alias Mack-Jntofh ', they were antient Followers of M4^;^-Do/?4/i of the Ifles. This Stone is now in the Cuftody of Margaret Miller^ alias Mack-Intojh : fhe lives in Bae/imiamch, and preferves the Globe with a- bundance of care ; it is wrapped up in fair Linen Cloth, and about that there is a piece of Wool- len Cloth, and ilie keeps it ftill lock'd up in her Cheft, when it is not given out to exert its qua» iuies. ISLESAT, Wejlern I/lands of Scothnd, 227 I S L E S A Y, IS a big Rock, about fix Leagues to the South -iVeJl of Jrran ; it rifes in form of a Sugar-Loaf, but the top is plain, and large enough for drawing up a thoufand Men in Ranks : there is a Frefh- Water Lake in the middle of the Plain, the whole Ifle is covered with long Grafs, and is inacceflible, except oa the South-Wefi ftdcy by a ftair cut out in the Rock ; in the middle of it there is a fmall Tower of three Stories high with the top. There is a FreQi- Water Spring ifTuing out of the fide of this great Rock ; below the Entry there is a place where the Fifhers take up their Refidence during their flay about this Rock in queft of Cod and Ling ; and there is a good Anchorage for their VelTels, very near their Tents. THIS Rock in the Summer-time abounds with variety of Sea-Fowl, that build and hatch in it. The SoUn Geefe and Cultermb are moft numerous here; the latter are by the Fifhers called Jihamchy which in the antienc Irtfb Lan- guage fignifies Scots- Men. THE Ifle hath a Chappel on the top called Fiunnaj^ and an antient Pavement, or Caufe* way. P 2 ISLES JT 228 ^Description of th ISLES AT is the Earl of C#/'s Property, the Tenant who farms it pays him one hun- dred Marks Scots yearly ; the ProduQ: of the Ifle is Hogs, Fowl, Down, and Fifh. The Ifle Jvo»y above a Mile in Circumference, lies to the South of KJntyre Male ; it hath a Harbour for Barks on the North, Jl^e Ijle G IG A1. TH E Ifle Gigay lies about a League from Lergie on the Weft-ftde of Kjntyre ; it is four Miles in length, and one in breadth, was formerly in the Diocefs, and is ftill part of the Sheriffdom of Argjle. This Ifle is for the moft part arable, but rocky in other parts: the Mold is brown and clayey, inclining to red; it is good for Pafturage and Cultivation. The Corn growing here is Oats and Barley. The Cattel bred here are Cows, Horfes, and Sheep. There is a Church in this Ifland called Kjl-chat- tan, it has an Altar in the Eafl-end, and upon it a Font of Stone which is very large, and hath a fmall hole in the middle which goes quite through it. There are feveral Tomb- liones in and about this Church ; the Family of the J^ack-Neils, the principal PoffefTors of this Ifle, are buried under the Tomb-ftones on the EaH-fide the Church, where there is a Plat of ground fet apart for them. Mofl: of all Wejlern Iftands of Scotland. 229 all the Tombs have a two-handed Sword engra- ven on them, and there is one that has the Re- prefentation of a Man upon it. NEAR the Weft-fide the Church there is a Stone of about 16 Foot high, and 4 broad, erected upon the Eminence. About 60 yards diftance from the Chappel there is a fquare Stone ere£led about ten Foot high ; at this the antient Inhabitants bowed, becaufe it was there where they had the firft View of the Church. THERE is aCrors4foot high at a little diftance, and a Cavern of Stone on each fide of it. THIS Ifle affords no Wood of any kind, but a few Bullies of Juniper on the little Hills. The Stones, upon which the ^cwx^Corkir grows, which dyes a Crimfon Colour, are found here ; as alfo thofe that produce the Crottil, which dyes a Philamot Colour. Some of the Natives told me that they us'd to chew Nettles, and hold them to their Noftrils to ftanch bleeding at the Nofe ; and that Nettles being apply'd to the Place, would alfo flop bleeding at a Vein, or other wife. T H ER E is a Well in the North End of this Ifle called T£?«^/>-worf, i.e. a great Well, be- caufe of its Effefts, for which it is famous P 5 ' among 230 ^ Description o/tfce among the Iflanders ; who together with the Inhabitants ufe it as a Catholicon for Difeafes. It's cover'd with Stone and Clay, becaufe the Natives fancy that the Stream that flows from it might overflow the Ifle ; and it is always opened by a Diroch, /. e, an Inmate, elfe they think it would not exert its Virtues. They afcribeone very extraordinary Efleft to it, and 'tis this ; That when any Foreign Boats are Wind-bound here (which often happens) the Mafter of the Boat ordinarily gives the Native that lets the Water run, a Piece of Money ; and they fay, th ft immediately afterwards the Wind changes in favour of thofe that that are thus de- tain'd by contrary Winds. Every Stranger that goes to drink of the Water of this Well, is ac- cuftomed to leave on its Stone-Cover a Piece of Money, a Needle, Pin, or one of the prettieft variegated Stones they can find. THE Inhabitants are all Proteftants, and fpeak the Iri/h Tongue generally, there being but few that fpeak Engltlh : they are grave and referv'd in their Converfation ; they are accuf- tomed not to bury on Friday ; they are fair or brown in Compledion, and ufe the fame Ha- bit, Diet, &c. that is made ufe of in the adja- cent Continent and Ifies. There is only one Inn in this Ifle. THE Ifle Caray lies a Quarter of a Mile South from Gfiaj ; it is about a Mile in compafs, affords Weftern IJlands of Scotknd. 2 1 \ affords good Pafturage, and abounds with Co- neys. There is a Harbour for Barks on the North-eaft End of it. Thislfland is the Pro- perty of Mack'Jlefter of Lergy, a Family of the Mackdoftalds, J U (IIJ H. THE Ifle oijurah is, by a narrow Chan- nel of about half a Mile broad, fepara- ted from lU, The Natives fay that Jurah is fo calFd from Dih and Rah, two Brethren, who are believ'd to have been Danes ; the Names Dib and Rah fignifying as much as without Grace or Profperity. Tradition fays, that thefe two Brethren fought and kill'd one another in the Village Kjiock^Cronm^ where there are two Stones ereQed of 7 Foot high each, and under them, they fay, there are Urns with the A flies of the two Brothers ; the Diftance between them is about fixty Yards. The Ifle is mountainous along the middle, where there are four Hills of a confiderable height ; the two highcft are well known to Sea-faring Men, by the Name of the Pa^s of "jurah : they are very con- fpicuous from ail Quarters of Sea and Land in thofe Parts. P4 THIS 23^ ^Description of the THIS Ifle is twenty four Miles long, and in fome Places fix or feven Miles in Breadth ; it is the Duke of Jrgj/eh Property, and Part of the Sheriffdom oi Arg^le, THE Mold is brown and greyiCh on the Coaft, and black in the Hills, which are co- ver'd with Heath, and fome Grafs, that proves good Pafturage for their Cattel, which are Horfes, Cows, Sheep, and Goats. There's Variety of Land and Water-Fowl here. The Hills ordinarily have about three hundred Deer grazing on them, which are not to be hunted by any; without the Steward's Licence, This Ifle is perhaps the wholefomeft Plat of Ground either in the Ifles or Continent of Scotland^ as appears by the long Life. of the Natives, and their State of Health ; to which the Height of the Hills is believ'd to contribute in a large meafure, by the frefh Breezes of Wind that come from 'em to purify the Air: whereas, Uay and Gigay on each fide this Ifle, are much lower, and are not fo wholefom by far, being liable to feveral Difeafes that are not here. The Inhabitants obferve, that the Air of this Place is perfedly pure, from the middle of March till the End or Middle of September. There is no Epidemical Difeafe that prevails here: Fevers are but feldom obferv'd by the Natives, and any kind of Flux is rare; the Gout and Agues are not fo much as known by thcmj Wejlmi IJtands of Scotland. 23; them, neither are they liable to Sciatica. Con- vulfions. Vapours, Palfics, Surfeits, Lethar- gies, Megrims, Confumptions, Rickets, Pains of the Stomach, or Coughs, are not frequent here, and none of them are at any time obferv'd to become mad. I was told by feveral of the Natives, that there was not one Woman died of Child bearing there thefe J4 Years pad:. Blood-letting and Purging are not us'd here. I F any contrail a Cough, they ufe Broehm only to remove it. If after a Fever one chance to be taken ill of a Stitch, they take a Quantity of Lady-wrack^ and half as much of Red-Fog^ and boil them in Water ; the Patients fit upon the VefTel, and receive the Fume, which by ex- perience they find effectual againft this Diftem- per. Fevers and the DUrrhea^s are found here only when the Air is foggy and warm, in Win- ter or Summer. r THE Inhabitants for their Diet make ufe of Beef and Mutton in the Winter and Spring ; as alfo of Fi(h, Butter, Cheefe, and Milk. The Vulgar take Brochan frequently for their Diet during the Winter and Spring ; and Bro- chan and Bread us'd for the fpace of two Days, reftores lofl: Appetite. e THE Women of all Ranks ^eat a lefTer Quantity of Food than the Men : this and their not 234 ^ Descrittion of the not wearing any thing ftrait about them, is believ'd to contribute much to the Health both of the Mothers and Children. T H E R E are feveral Fountains of excellent Water in this Ifle : the moft celebrated of them is that of the Mountain Beinbrek in the Tarbaty called Toubir n't Lechhwy that is, the Well in a ftony Defcent ; it runs Eafterly, and they commonly reckon it to be lighter by one half than any other Water in this Ifle: for tho one drink a great Quantity of it at a time, the Belly is not fwell'd, or any ways burden'd by it. Natives and Strangers find it efficacious againft Naufeoufnefs of the Stomach, and the Stone. The River NijjA receives all the Water that iflues from this Well, and this is the rea- fon they give why Salmons here are in Good- nefs and Tafte far above thofe of any other River whatever. The River o^ Crokbreck af- fords Salmon alfo, but they are not efteem'd fo good as thofe of the River Niffa. SEVERAL of the Natives have liv'd to a great Age : I was told that one of them, called Gillouir Mack-Cram, livM to have kept one hnu- dred and eighty Chriftmaffes in his own Houfe ; he died about fifty Years ago, and there are feveral of his Acquaintance living to this day, from whom I had this Account. BAILIFF Wejleni Ijlands bf Scotland. 2 3 5 BAILIFF Camfbell lived to the Age of one hundred and fix Years, he died three Years ago, he pafTed the thirty three iaft Years before his Death in this Ifle. Donald Mac N'MlU^ who lives in the Village of KJUearn at prefent, is arri- ved at the Age of ninety Years. A W O M A N of the Ifle of Scorba^ near the North End of this Ifle, lived fevenfcore Years, and enjoy'd the free Ufe of her Senfes and Un- derfl:anding all her days : it is now two years fince (he died. THERE is a large Cave, called Kj/Jg^s-Cave^ on the Weft Side of the Tarhaf, near the Sea ; there is a Well at the Entry, which renders it the more convenient for fuch as niay have oc- cafion to iodg in it. ABOUT two Miles further from the Tar- hap, there is a Cave at Corpich which hath an Altar in it ; there are many fmall Piece6 of pe- trify'd Subftance hanging from the Roof of this Cave. THERE is a Place where VelTels ufe to anchor on the Weft fide of thislfland, called WhitfarUn, about 100 Yards North from the Forter*s Houle. ABOUT 23<5 y^ Description o/f/;^ ABOUT four Leagues South frorp the North End of this ifle, lies the Bay Da'iraul, which is about half a Mile in length ; there is a Rock on the North fide of the Entry, which they fay is five Fathom deep, and but three Fathom within. ABOUT a League further to the South on the fameCoaft, lies the fmalj Ifles of Jurah, within which, there is a good Anchoring- Place ; the South Entry is the beft ; Ifland Nm Gomr muft be kept on the left hand ; it is eafily diftinguifh'd by its Bignefs from the reft of the Ifles. Coftnej Ifie lies to the North of this Ifland. There are black and white fpotted Serpents in this Ifle ; their Head being apply'd to the Wound, is by the Natives us'd as the beft Remedy for their Poifon. Within a Mile of the Tarbat there is a Stone ere£led about eight Foot high. Loch-Tarhat on the Weft fide runs Eafterly for about five Miles, but is not a Harbour for Veffels, or lefler Boats, for it is altogether rocky. THE Shore on the Weft fide affords Co. ral and Coraline. There is a fort of Dalfe growing on this Coaft, of a white Colour. BE T W E E N the No^h End of Jf^rah, and the Ifle Scarpa, lies the famous and dangerous pulph, calPd Corj Frekan, about a Mile io breadth ; Wejlern IJlands of Scotland. 237 breadth ; it yields an impetuous Current, not to be matched any where about the Ifle of Britaif/, The Sea begins to boil and ferment with the Tide of Flood, and refembles the boiling of a Pot ; and then increafes gradually, until it appear in many Whirlpools, which form themfelves in fort of Pyramids, and im- mediately after fpout up as high as the Maft of a little Veflfel, and at the fame time make a loud Report. Thefe white Waves run two Leagues with the Wind before they break : the Sea continues to repeat thefe various Motions from the beginning of the Tide of Flood, until it is more than half Flood, and then it decrea- fes gradually until it hath ebb'd about half an hour, and continues to boil till it is within an hour of low Water. This boiling of the Sea is not above a Pifl:ol-(hot diftant from the Coaft of Scarba JJle, where the white Waves meet and fpout up : they call it the Kjillach^ i. e. an old Hag ; and they fay that when (he puts on her Kjrchief, i. e. the whiteft Waves, it is then reckoned fatal to approach her. Not- withftanding this great Ferment of the Sea, which brings up the lead "Shell from the Ground, the fmalleft Fifher-Boat may venture to crofs this Gulph at the laft hour of the Tide of Flood,^and at the laft hour of the Tide of Ebb. THIS Gulph hath its Name from Breka^^ faid to be Son to the King of Denmark, who was 2^8 ^ Description o/f/;f was drowned here, caft afhore in the North of Jurah^ and buried in a Cave, as appears from the Hone Tomb and Altar there. THE Natives told me, that about three Years ago an Englifh VefTel happen'd inadver- tently to pafs through this Gulph at the time when the Sea began to boil : the Whitenefs of the Waves, and their fpouting up, was Hke the breaking of the Sea upon a Rock ; they found themfelves attraded irrefiftibly to the w^hite Rock, as they then fuppofed it to be: this quickly obhg'd them to confult their Safe- ty, and fo they betook themfelves to the fmall Boat with all fpeed, and thought it no fmall Happinefs to land fafe in Jurah, committing the VcI{qI under all her Sails to the uncertain Con- du£l of Tide and Wind. She was driven to the oppofite Continent of h^mpdale, where fhe no fooner arriv'd, than the Tide and Wind be- came contrary to one another, and fo the VeiTel was caft into a Creek, where fhe was fafe ; and then the Mafter and Crew were by the Na- tives of this Ifle conduced to her, where they found her as fafa as they left her, tho all her Sails were ftill hoifted. THE Natives gave me an account, that fome Years ago a Veffel had brought fome Rats hither, which increafed fo much, that they be- came very uneafy to the People, but on a fud- den We/tern JJlands 0/ Scotland. 239 den they all vanifh'd ; and now there is not one of them in the Ifle. THERE is a Church here call'd K^illearn, the Inhabitants are all Proteftants, and obferve the Feftivals of Chrijimasy Rafter, and Michael- mas ; they do not open a Grave on Friday, and bury none on that day, except the Grave has been openM before. THE Natives here are very well propor- tion'd, being generally black of Complexion, and free from bodily ImperfeQions. 1 hey fpeak the lri[h Language, and wear the Plad, Bon- net, &c. as other Iflanders. T H E Ifle of lU lies to the Weft of Jurah, from which it is feparated by a narrow Chan- nel: it is twenty four Miles in length from South to North, and eighteen from Eaft to Weft ; there are fome little Mountains about the middle on the Eaft-fide. The Coaft is for the moft part heathy and uneven, and by con- fequence not proper for Tillage ; the North-end is alfo full of Heaths and Hills. The South- Weft and Weft is pretty well cultivated, and there is fix Miles between Kjlrorv on the Weft, and Port Efcock in the Eaft, which is arable, and well inhabited. There's about one thou- fand little Hills on this Road, and all abound with Lime-flone ; among which there is lately difcovered a Lead Mine in three different Pla- 140 ^^Description of the ces, but it has not turn'd to any account as yet. The Corn growiog here is Barley and Oats. THERE is only one Harbour in this Ifle, call'd Loeh-Dale; it lies near the North end, and is of a great length and breadth ; but the depth being in the middle, few Veflels come within half a League of the Land-fide. THERE arefeveral Rivers in this Ifle af- fording Salmon, The Frefh-vvater Lakes are well ftock'd with Trouts, Eels, and fome with Salmons ; as Loch-Guirm^ which is four Miles in Circumference, and hath feveral Forts built on an Ifland that lies in it. LOCH-FJNLJGAN, about three Miles in Circumference, affords Salmon, Trouts, and Eels: this Lake lies in the Center of the Ifle. The Ifle FinUgan, from which this Lake hath its Namx, is in it. It's famous for being once the Court in which the great Mack-DonaU, King of the Ifles, had his Refidenc« ; his Houfes, Chappel, &c. are now ruinous. His Guards de Corps^ call'd Luchttaeh, kept Guard on the Lake-fide neareft to the Ifle ; the Walls of their Houfes are ftill to be feen there. THE High Court of Judicature, confiding of Fourteen, fat always here ; and there was an Appeal to them from all the Courts in the Ifles: Wefiern IJlands of Scotland. 241 Ifles : the eleventh Share of the Sum in debate was due to th^ principal Judg. There was a big Stone of feven Foot fquare, in which there was a deep Impreirion made to receive the Feet of Mack> Donald-^ for he was crown'd King of the Ifles ftanding in this Stone, and fwore that he would continue nis VafTals in the pofTeirion of their Lands, and do exad Juiiice to all his Subjects : and then his Father's Sword was put into his hand. The Bifhop of Jrgyle and ft- ven Priefts anointed him King, in prefence of all the Heads of the Tribes in the Ifles and Con- tinent, and were his ValTals; at which time the Orator rehears'd a Catalogue of his An- ceftors, &c. THERE are feveral Forts built in the Ifles. that are in Frefh-water Lakes, as in lUn Loch- guirffy and lUn Viceain : there is a Fort call'd Dunnivag in the South-Weft: fide of the Ifle, and there are feveral Caves in different places of it. The largeft that I faw was in the North end, and is call'd VAh Vearnag ; it will contain 200 Men to fliand or fit in it. There is a Kiln for drying Corn made on the Eafl:-fide of it ; and on the other fide there's a Wall built clofe to the fide of the Cave, which was us'd for a Bed-Chamber : it had a Fire on the Floor, and fome Chairs about it, and the Bed flood clofe to the Wall. There is a Scone without the Cave- Door, about which the common People make a Tour Sunways. 2^1 ^ Description o/f^c A MILE on the South- Weft fide of the Cave is the celebrated Well, calPd Tonbir in Kjtahar^ which in the antient Language is as much as to fay, the Well that fallied from one place to another : For it is a receiv'd Tradition among the vulgar Inhabitants of this Ille, and the op- pofite Ifle of Collonfay^ that this Well vi^as firft: in Collonfay, until an imprudent Woman hap- pen'd to wafli her Hands in it, and that imme- diately after, the Well being thus abus'd, came in an inftant to //^, where it is like to continue, and is ever fince efteem'd a Catholkon for Difeafes by the Natives and adjacent Iflanders ; and the great refort to it is commonly every Quarter day. IT is common with fick People to make a Vow to come to the Well, and after drinking, they make a Tour Sunways round it, and then leave an Offering of fome fmall Token, fuch as a Pin, Needle, Farthing, or the like, on the Stone Cover which is above the Well. But if the Patient is not like lo recover, they fend a Proxy to the Well, who a£ls as above-men- tion'd, and carries home fome of the Water to be drank by the lick Perfon. T H E R E is a little Chappel befide this Well, to which fuch as had found the Benefit of the Water, came back and return'd thanks to God fcr their Recovery. THERE Weflern I/lands of Scotland. 24; THERE pre feveral Rivers on each fide this Ifle, that auord Salmon : I was told by the Natives, that the Briofi of lU, a famous Judg, is, according to his own Defire, buried ftanding on the Brink of the River Laggan ; hiving in his right Hand a Spear, fuch as they ufe to dart at the Salmon. THERE arefomelflesontheCoaftofthis IJland, 2iS IJlandTexa on the South. Weft about a Mile in Circumference ; and IJlAnd Ouirfa a Mile likewife in Circumference, with the fmall IJle call'd Nave. The Names of the CHURCHES ht this IJIe are ^ follow : KlL-ChoUim-K^ill, ^t. Columbus his Church near Port Efcock, Kjl-Chovan in the Rins on the Weft-fide the Ifle; Kjl-Chiaran in Rins^ on the Weft-fide Nerbols in the Rins^ St. Colam- bus his Church in Laggm^ a Chappel in I/land Navc, and KjUhan Alen North- Weft of Kjdrorv. There is a Crofs ftanding near St. Colambm\ or Tort Efcock fide, which is ten Foot high. There are two Stones fet up at the Eaft-fide of Loch- Finlagan^ and they are fix Foot high : all the Inhabitants are Proteftants ; fome among them obferve the Feftivals of Chrifimas and GoooL" 0^2 Friday, 244 J Description of the Friday. They are well proportion'd , and indif- ferently healthful : the Air here is not near fo good as that of Jura^ from which it is but a fhort Mile diftant ; but lU is lower and more marfliy, which makes it liable to feveral Dif- eafes that do not trouble thofe oLJura. They generally fpeak the Irifb Tongue, all thofe of the beft Rank fpeak Englifh ; they ufe the fame Habit and Diet with thofe of Jura. This Ifle is annex'd to the Crown of Scotland ; Sir Hugh Camfbel of Caddel is the King's Steward there, and has one half of the Ifland. This Ifle is reckoned the furthefl: Weft of all the Ifles m Britain : there is a Village on the Weft Coaft of it calPd Only i. e. the back part ; and the Na- tives fay it was fo calPd, becaufe the Antients thought it the back of the World, as being the rcmoteft part on that fide of it. The Natives of lla, Colionjaj^ and 'Jura fay, that there is an Ifland lying to the South- Weft of thefe Ifles, a- bout the diftance of a day's failing, for which they have only a bare Tradition. Mr. Mack- Sweff, prefent Minifter in the Ifle Jura, gave me the following Account of it, which he had from the Mafter of an Engitfh Vefifel that happen'd to anchor at that little Ifle, and came afterwards to Jura • which is thus : .-^ou A S I was failing fome thirty Leagues to the ..wUth- Weft of JUy I was becalm'd near a little Ifle, where I dropt Anchor, and went afhore. J found ic cover'd all over with long Grafs ; there Wcfiern JJlands of Scothnd, 245 there were abundance of Seals lyinj^ on the Rocks, and on the Shore ; there is like wife a multitude of Sea-fowls in it: there is a River in the middle, and on each fide of it I found great Heaps of Fifh-bones of many forts ; there are many Planks and Boards caft up upon the Coaft of the Ifle, and it being all plain, and al- moft level with the Sea, I caus'd my Men (being then idle) to ereft a heap of the Wood about two Stories high ; and that with a Defign to make the Ifland more confpicuous to Sea-faring Men. This Ifle is four Englifh Miles in length, and one in breadth : I was about thirteen Hours failing between this Ifle and Jura. Mr. John Mack-Srven above-mention'd, having gone to the Ifle of Colhnfay^ fome few Days after, was told by the Inhabitants, that from an Eminence near the Monaflery, in a fair Day, they faw as it were the top of a little Mountain in the South- Weft Sea, and that they doubted not but it was Land, tho they never obferv'd it before. Mr. MAck-Srven was confirm'd in this Opinion by the Account above-mention'd : but when the Sum- mer was over, they never faw this little Hill, as they call'd it, any more. The reafon of which is fupposM to be this, that the high Winds, in all Probability, had caft down the Pile of Wood, that forty Seamen had erefled the preceding Year in that Ifland , which by rea- fon of the Defcription above recited, we may aptly enough call the Green Ifland. Q.? The 24^ ^DESCRIPTION of the The Ifie of CoUonfay. \ BOUT two Leagues to the North of lla^ £\^ lies the Ifle Oronfay ; it is feparated from tollonfay only at the Tide of Flood : this Penin- fuU is four Miles in Circumference, being for the moft part « plain, arable, dry, fandy Soil, and is fruitful in Corn and Grafs ; it is likewife adorn'd with a Ch'jrch, Chappel, and Monaftery ; they were built by the famous St. Colambm^ to whom the Church is dedicated. There is an Altar in this Church, and there has been a modern Cru- cifix on ir, in which feveral precious Stones were fix'd ; the moft valuable of thefe is now in the Cuftody of Mack-Duffie, in black Raimufed Village, and it is us'd as a Catholicon for Dilea- fes ; there are feveral Burying-places here, and the Tomb-ftones for the moft part have a two- handed S\A'ord engraven on them. On the South fide of the Church within, lie the Tombs of Mack' Duff e, and of the Cadets of his Fami- ly 5 there is a Ship under Sail, and a two-han- ded Sword engraven on the principal Tomb- ftone, and this Infcription, Hie jacit Malcolum- bu4 MaC'Duffe de CoUonfay : his Coat of Arms and Colour-Staff is fix'd in a Stone, thro which a Hole is made to hold it. 7 here is a Crofs at the Eaft and Weft fides of this Church, which are now broken ; their height was about twelve Foot each : there is a large Crofs on the Weft-, fide of the Church, of an entire Stone very hard ; there IVeJlern IJlands of Scotland. 247 there is a Pedeftal of three Steps, by which they afcend to it, it is 16 Foot high, and a Foot and a half broad ; there is a large Crucifix on the Weft-fide of this Crofs, it has an Infcription underneath, but not legible, being almoft wore off by the Injury of Time ; the other fide has a Tree engraven on it. ABOUT a quarter of a Mife on the South- fide of the Church there is a Carne, in which there is a Stone Crofs fix'd, cali'd Mack-Duffie*s Crofs ; for when any of the Heads of this Fa- mily were to be interr'd, their Corps was laid on this Crofs for fome moments, in their way to- ward the Church. O N the North-fide of the Church there is a fquare Stone-wall, about two Story high ; the Area of it is about fourfcore Paces, and it is join'd to the Church Wall : within this Square there is a lefTer Square of one Story high, and about 60 Paces wide, three fides of it are built of fmall Pillars, confifting of two thin Stones each, and each Pillar vaulted above with two thin Stones tapering upwards. There are In- fcriptions on two of the Pillars, but hw of the Letters are perfeft. There are feveral Koufes without the Square, which the Monks liv'd in. There is a Garden at twenty Yards diftance on the North-fide the Houfes, CL4 THE 248 ^ Description o/t^e THE Natives of CoUonpiy are accuftom'd, after their Arrival in Oronfay Ifle, to make a Tour Sunways about the Church, before they enter upon any kind of Bufinefs. My Landlord having one of his Family fick of a Fever, askM my Book,as a fingular Favour,for a few moments. I was not a little furpriz'd at the honeft Man's Requeft, he being illiterate ; and when he told me the reafon of it, I was no lefs amaz'd, for it was to fan the Patient's Face with the Leaves of the Book ; and this he did at Night. He fought the Book next Morning, and again in the Evenmg, and then thank'd me for fo great a Fa- vour : And told me, the fick Perfon was much better by it, and thus I underftood that they had an antient Cuftom of fanning the Face of the Sick with the Leaves of the Bible. THE Ifle Collofifay is four Miles in length, from Eaft to Wefl-, and above a Mile in breadth. The Mould is brown and fandy on the Coafl:, and affords but a very fmall Produ£l, tho they plough their Ground three times ; the middle is rocky and heathy, which in moft places is prettily mingled with thick Ever-greens of £r/- (a-Baccifera, "Jumper ^ and Ca(s-Tail. THE Cattle bred here are Cows, Horfes and Sheep, all of a low Size. The Inhabitants are generally well proportioned, and of a black Coimpiexion ; they fpeak only the /r//^ Tongue, and Weftern Iflands of Scotland. 249 and ufe the Habit, Diet, &c. that is ufed in the Weftern Ifles : they are all Proteftants, and ob- ferve the Feftivals o^Chrifimas, Rafter, and Good- Friday ; but the Women only obferve the Fefti- val of the Nativity of the Blefled Virgin. IQl. euran is the principal Church in this Ifle, and the Village in which this Church is, hath its Name from it. There are two ruinous Chap- pels in the South-fide of this Ifle. There were two Stone Chefts found lately in Kjl-ouran Sands, which were compofed of five Stones each, and had human Bones in them. There are fome Frefh-water Lakes abounding with Trouts in this Ifle. There are likewife feveral Forts here, one of which is call'd Dumoll ; it is near the mid- dle of the Ifle, it hath large Scones in it, and the Wall is feven Foot broad. THE other Fort is call'd Dun-Evan : the Natives have a Tradition among them of a ve- ry little Generation of People, that lived once here, calPd Lusbirdan^ the fame with Pigmies, This Ifle is the Duke of Argyle's Property. HULL. j^o ji Description of tht MULL. THE Ifle of Mull lies on the Weft Coaft, oppofite to Lochaher, Swoonard^ and Moy- dort. It is divided from thefe by a narrow Channel, not exceeding half a League in breadth; the Ifle is twenty four Miles long, from South to North, and as many in breadth from Eaft to Weft. A South- Baft Moon caufes high Tide here. This Ifle is in the Sheriffdom of Argyle\ the A\v here is temperately cold and moift ; the frefh Breezes that blow from the Mountains do in fome meafure qualify it : the Natives are accuftom'd to take a Jarge Dofe of Jo[uiiv$t£ as a iorredive, when the Seafon is very rroifl, and then they are very careful to chew a piece of Charmel-R oot^ finding it to be AromAtick ; efpecially when they intend to have a Drinking-bout, for they fay this in fome mea- fure prevents O: unkennefs. THE Mould is generally black, and brown, both in the Hills and Valleys, and in fome parts a Clay of different Colours. The Heaths afford abundance of Turff and Peats, which ferve the Natives for good Fewel. There is a great Ridg of Mountains about the middle of the Ifle, one of them very high, and there- fore caird Bein Fore, i. e. a great Mountain. It is to be feen from all the Weftern Ifles, and a conf^ Weftmi Ifiands 0/ Scotland. 251 confiderable Part of the Continent. Both Mountains and Valleys aftbrd good Pafturage for all forts of Cattle, as Sheep, Goats, and Deer, which herd among the Hills and Bufhes. The Horfes are bur of a low Size, yet very fprightly ; their black Cattle are likewife low in Size, but their Flefh is very delicious and fine. There's Abundance o\ wild Fowl in the Hills and Valleys; and among 'em the black Cock, Heath-Hen, Tarmagan, and very fine Hawks : the Sea-Coaft affords all fuch Fowl as are to be had in the Weftern Ifles, The Corn growing here, is only Barley and Oats. There's great Variety of Plants in the Hifls and Valleys, but there h no Wood here, ex- cept a few Coppices on the Coaft. There are fome Bays, and Places for Anchorage about the Ifle. The Bay of Du art on the Bail Side, and to the North of the Caftle of that Name, is reckoned a fafe Anchoring-place, and frequented by Strangers. Locbbu) on the oppofite Weft Side, is but an indifferent Harbour, yet VefTels go into it for Herring. THE Coafton the Weft abounds with Rocks for two Leagues Weft and South- Weft. The Bloody Bay is over againft the North End of Ifland Columkil^ and only fit for VefTels of about an hundred Tun. SOME few Miles further to the North- Eaft is hoch'Levtnj the Entry lies to the Weft-. ward. 252 J Descrii?tio:s of the ward, and goes twelve Miles Eafterly ; there are Herrings to be had in it fometimes, and it abounds with Oyfters, Cockles, Mufcles, Clams, &c, LOCH-LJT lies on the South Side of Loch- Levin ; it is proper only for fmall Veflfels ; Her- ring are to be had in it fometimes, and it abounds with Variety of Shell-Fifh : the fmall Ifles, called the white I le, and Ifle of Kids, are within this Bay. To the North of Loch- Levin lies Loch- Sc afford', it enters South Weft, and runs North-Eaft within it lie the Ifles £or/e: and Inchkenneth^ both which are reputed very fruitful in Cattle and Corn. THERE is a little Chappel in this Ifle, in which many of the Inhabitants of all Ranks are buried. U pon the North Side of Loeh-Scaf- ford lies the Ifle of I^evay^ it's three Miles in Circumference, and encompafs'd with Rocks and Shelves, but fruitful in Corn, Grafs, &c. T O the Wefl: of Viva, lies the Ifle Gometra^ a Mile in Circumference, and fruitful in propor- tion to the other Ifles. ABOUT four Miles further lie the fmall Ifles, caird Kjitrnburg-More and I\jrnbug'Beg ; they are naturally very ftrong, fac'd all round with a Rock, having a narrow Entry, and a violent Current of a Tide on each fide, fo that they Weflern Iflands of Scotland. 255 they are almoft impregnable. A very few Mea are able to defend thefe two Forts againft a thou- fand. There is a fmall Garifon of the Standing Forces in them at prefent. TO the South of thefe Forts lie the fmall Ifles of Fladdaj^ Lungay^ Back, and the Call of the Back : Cod and Ling are to be had plenti- fully about all thefe Iflands. NEAR to the North-Eaft End of Mull, lies the Ifle Calve ; it is above two Miles in com- pafs, has a Coppice, and affords good Paftu- rage for all kind of Cattle. Between this Ifle, and the Ifle of Mull, there is a capacious and excellent Bay, called Tonhir Mory, i. e. the Vir- gin Marfs Well ; becaufe the Water of a Well of that Name, which is faid to be Medicinal, f uns into the Bay. O N E of the Ships of the Spamjh Armada^ called the Florida, perifhed in this Bay, having been blown up by one Smallet of Dunbartony in the Year 1588. There was a great Sum of Gold and Mony on board the Ship, which difpofed the Earl of Argyle, and fome Engltflj- men, to attempt the Recovery of it; but how far the latter fucceeded in this Enterprize, is not generally well known ; only that fome Pieces of Gold, and Mony, and a Golden Chain was taken out of her. I have feen fome fine brafs Cannon, fome Pieces of Eight, Teeth, Beads 254 ^ DeSCR IPTIO N o/ //?^ Beads and Pins that had been taken out of that Ship. Several of the Inhabitants of Mull told me thu they had converfed with their Rela- rions that were living at the Harbour when this Ship was blown up ; and they gave an account of an admirable Providence that appear'd in the Prefervation of one Doctor Beaton, (the fa- mous Phyfician of Mull) who was on board the Ship when (lie blew up, and was then fit- ting on the upper Deck, which was blown up entire, and thrown a good way off; yet the Do61or was faved ; and liv'd feveral Years after. THE black and white hdian Nuts are found on the Weft fide of this Ifle ; the Na- tives pulverize the black Kernel or the black Nut, and drink it in boiPd Milk for curing the Diarrhea. THERE are feveral Rivers in the Ifle that afford Salmon, and fome Rivers abound with the black Mufile that breeds Pearl. There are alfo fome frefh-water Lakes that IiaveTrouts and Eels. The whole Ifle is very well waterM with many Springs and Fountains. They told me of a Spring in the South fide of the Moun- tain Bein Vore^ that has a yellow colour'd Stone at the Bottom, which doth not burn, or become hot, tho it fhould be kept in the Fire for a whole day together. THE Weflern I/lands of Scotland. 255 THE JmphibUin this Ifle are Seals, Otters, Vipers, of the fame kind as thofe defcribed in the Ifle of Skie, and the Natives ufe the fame Cures for the biting of Vipers. Foxes abound in this Ifle, and do much hurt among the Lambs and Kids. THERE are three Caftles in the Ifle, to wit, the Caftle of Duart, fituated on the Eafl-, built upon a Rock, the Eaft fide is furrounded by the Sea. This was the Seat of Sir John Mack-Lean, Head of the antient Family of the Mack-Leans ; and is now, together with the Efl:ate, which was the major Fart of the Ifland, become the Duke of ArgyWs Property, by the Forfeiture of Sir 'John. SOME Miles further on the Wefl: Coaft, ftands the Caftle of Moj, at the head of Loch- buy ^ and is the Seat of Mack-Lean of Lochbuy. THERE is an old Caftle ziJros in the middle of the Ifland, now in ruins. There are fome old Forts here called Dunns, fuppos'd to have been built by the Danes. There are twoParifh-Churchesinthelfle, "jiz, Kjilimhen' Bencrth, Loch-Levin, and a little Chappel, call'd Kjlivichk-Erviny at the Lake above Loch- Lay ; each Parifh hath a Minifter. The Inhabi- tants are all Proteftants, except two or three, who are Roman Catholicks ; they obferve the Fefti- i')6 ^^Description of the FeftivalsofC/;r//?»?^, Rafter , Good- Friday^ and St. Michaers. They fpeak the Iri(h Language generally, but thofe of the beft Rank fpeak E'r^gl/(h ; they wear the fame Habit as the reft of the ijlanders. J 0 K A THIS Ip in the Irifh Language is called /. Colmkil, i. c. the Ifthmus of Columbtis the Clergy-Man. Colum was his proper Name, and the Addition of KJl, which fignifies a Church, was added by the Iftanders by way of excellence ; for there were kw Churches then in the remote and leffer IJles, THE Natives have a Tradition among them, That one of the Clergy-Men who accom- panied Columbus in his Voyage thither, having at a good diftance efpied the /// Language, Chi mi^i.e. I fee her ; meaning thereby, the Coun- try of which they had been in quefl : that Co- lumbus then anfwer'd, It fhall be from hence- forth called r. THE Ifte is two Miles long {xQ^South to ]S!orth, and one in breadth, from E^ft to Wef, The Wepni IJlands of Scotland. 257 The Eaft.fide is all arable and plain, fruitful in Corn and Grafs ; the Weft-fide is high and rocky. THIS IJle was antiently a Seminary of Learning, famous for the fevere Difcipline and Sanfl:ity of Columbm. He built two Churches, and two Monafteries in it, one for Men, the other for Women ; which were endowed by the Kings of Scotland, and of the J/ies ; fo that the Revenues of the Church then amounted to 4000 Marks per Ann. Jona was the Bifhop of the IJles Cathedral, after the Scots loft the IJie of Man^ in which King CrAtilinth erefted a Church to the Honour of our Saviour, call'd fmum Sodorenfe. Hence it was that the Bifhop of the IJles was ftil'd Epifeopus Sodorenjis. The Vicar of Jona was Parfon of Soroby in Tyre-iy and Dean of the ]fles. St. Murfs Church here is built in form of a Crofs, the Choir io Yards long, the Cupilo 21 Foot fquare, the Body of the Church of equal Length with the Choir, and the two crofs Ifles half that Length. There are two Chappels on each fide of the Choir, the Entry to them opens with large Pillars neatly carv'd in BAJfo Relievo ; the Steeple is pretty large, the Doors, Windows, &c. are cu- rioufly carv'd ; the Altar is large, and of as fine Marble as any I ever faw. There are feveral Abbots bury'd within theChurch ; Mack-llikenich his Statue is done in black Marble, as big as the Life, in an Epifcopal Habit, with a Mitre, R Crofier, 25B ^Description of the Crofier, Ring, and Stones along the Breaft, &c. The reft of the Abbots are done after the fame manner ; the Infcription of one Tomb is as follows: Hie jacet 'Jonnnes Mack-'Eingone^ Abbas de Oui, ^ui obiit Anno Domini Milefimo Quingen- tefimo. BISHOP K»ox, and feveral Perfons of Di- flinftion, as Mack-Leod of Harries, have alfo been buried here. THERE'S the Ruins of a Cloifter behind the Church, as alfo of a Library, and under it a large Room ; the Natives fay it was a Place f@r Publick Difputations. THERE is a Heap of Stones without the Church, under which Mackean of Ardminur- chin lies buried. There is an empty Piece of Ground between the Church and the Gardens, in which Murderers, and Children that died before Baptifm, were buried. Near to the Weft-end of the Church in a little Cell Hes Co- lumbus his Tomb, but without Infcription ; this gave meoccafion to cite the Diftich^ aflert- ing that Columbus was buried in Ireland: at which the Natives of Jona feem'd very much difpleas'd, and affirm'd that the Irijl) who faid fo were impudent Lyars ; that Columbus was once buried in this Place, and that none ever came Weflern IJlands of Scotland. 159 came from Ireland fince to carry away his Corps, which had they attempted, would have prov'd equally vain and prefumptuous. NEAR St. Columbus's Tomb is St. Martin's Crofs, an entire Stone of eight Foot high ; it is a very hard and red Stone, with a Mixture of grey in it. On the Weft-fide of the Crofs is engraven a large Crucifix, and on the Eaft a Tree ; it ftands on a Pedeftal of the fame kind of Stone. At a little further diftance is Dun Ni Manich^ i. e. Monk's Forty built of Stone and Lime, in form of a Baftion, pretty high. From this Eminence the Monks had a View of all the Families in the JJle, and at the fame time enjoy'd the free Air. A little further to the Weft lie the black Stones, which are fo call'd, not from their Colour, for that is grey, but from the Effefts that Tradition fay enfued upon Perjury, if any one became guilty of it after fwearing on tbefe Stones in the ufual manner ; for an Oath made on them was decifive in ail Controverfies. MACKrDONJLD, King of the 7^/, de- liver'd the Rights of their Lands to his Vaffals in the Iflesand Continent, with up-lifted Hands, and bended Knees on the black Stones; and in this Pofture, before many WitnefTes, he folemn- ly fwore, that he would never recall thofe Rights which It€ then granted : and this was inftead of his Great Seal. Hence it is that when R 2 one 2(5o A Description of the one was certain of what he affirm'd, he faid pofitively, I have freedom to fwear this Matter upon the black Stones. O N the South- fide the Gate, without the Church, is the Taylors Houfe, for they only wrought in it. The Natives fay, that in the time of a Plague, the outer Gate was quite fhut up, and that all Provifions were thrown in thro a Hole in the Gate for that purpofe. A T fome diftance South from St. Mary*s is .Si, Ouran\ Church, commonly call'd Reliqui Ouran ; the Saint of that Name is buried with- in it. THE Laird of Mack-Kjnfion has a Tomb within this Church, which is the ftatelieft Tomb in the Ip. On the Wall above the Tomb there is a Crucifix engraven, having the Arms of the Family underneath : viz. a Boar's Head, with a Couple of Sheep's Bones in its Jaws. The Tomb-fione has a Statue as big as the Life, all in Armour, and upon it a Ship under Sail, a Lion at the Head, and another at the Feet. The Infcription on the Tomb is thus : Htc efi Jbbis LuchUni^ Mack-Fingone, & ejus Filius Ab- hatis dt /. A'Jati^ in Dno M^ cccc Ann, THERE are other Perfons of Diftin£lion in the Church, all done in Armour. ON Weftern IJlands of Scotland. 26 1 O N the South-fide of the Church, mention'd above, is the Burial-place in which the Kings and Chiefs of Tribes are buried, and over them a Shrine ; there was an Infcription, giving an account of each particular Tomb, but Time has worn them off. The middlemoft had written on it, The Tombs of the KJngs of Scotland ; of which forty eight lie there. UPON that on the right hand was written, The Tombs of the KJ»gs of Ireland ; of which four were buried here. AND upon that on the left hand was writ- ten, The Kjngs of Norway ; of which eight were buried here. O N the right hand within the Entry to the Church-yard there is a Tomb-ftone now over- grown with Earth, and upon it there's written, Hie jacet Joannes TurnbuU^ quondam Fpifcopus Canterbunenfis. This I deliver upon the Autho- rity of Mr. Jo. Mack-Smn, Minifter of Jura, who fays he read it. NEXT to the King's, is the Tomb-ftone of Mack-Donald of lla ; the Arms, a Ship with hoif- ted Sails, a Standard, four Lions, and a Tree; the Infcription, Hie jacet Corf us Angnfii Mack- Donuill de lie. ^-^ -— » R 3 IN 262 ^Description of the I N the Weft-end is the Tombs of Gilbrid and Paul Sporran, antient Tribes of the Mack- Donalds , THE Families of Mack-Lean of Duart, Loch- buy, and Coll, lie next all in Armour, as big as the Life. MJCKrJLISTE R, a Tribe of the Mack- Donalds, Mack-Ouery of Vlvay, are both done as above. THERE is a Heap of Stones on which they us'd to lay the Corps while they dug the Grave. There is a Stone likewife erefted here, concern- ing which the credulous Natives fay, That who- foever reaches out his Arm along the Stone three times, in the Name of the Father, Son, and Holy Ghofl, will never err in fleering the Helm of a VelTel. ONE Tomb hath a Clergy-man, with this Infcription upon it ; San^a, &c. ABOUT a quarter of a Mile further South is the Church Ronad, in which feveral Priorefi fes are buried ; one of the Infcriptions is, Hie jacet Dna. Anna Terleti, Filia quandam Pnorijfs de Jon,a, qu£ obiit Anno M^ Qhr'tjti, Animam A- hrahamo commsndamus, ANO-^ Weft em IJlands of Scotland. 16 1 ANOTHER Infcription \$ ; Behag Ni]n Sork vie 11 vrid Prior iff a : i. e. Bathia Daughter to Somerkd^ Son of Gilbert ^ Priorefs. .WITHOUT the Nunnery there is fuch another Square as that befide the Monaftery»for Men. The two Pavements, which are of a hard red Stone, arc yet entire ; in the middle of the longeft Pavement there is a large Crofs, like to that mention'd above, and is call'd Mack-Lean's Crofs. There are nine Places on the Eaft-fide the Ifle, call'd Ports for Landing. THE Dock which was dug out of Port Churich is on the fhore, to preferve Columbus's Boat caird Curich, which was made of Ribs of Wood, and the Outfide cover'd with Hides ; the Boat was long, and fbarp-pointed at both ends : Columbus is faid to have tranfported eighteen Clergy-men in this Boat to Jo;ga. T H E R E are many pretty variegated Stones in the (hore below the Dock ; they ripen to a green Colour, and are then proper for carving. The Natives fay thefe Stones are fortunate, but only for fome particular thing, which the Per- fon thinks fit to name, in exclufion of every thing elfe. THERE was a Tribe here c^WACtan vie nojhr^ from OJtiarii; for they are faid to have: R 4 been 164 ^ De SCR IV T 10 y! of the been Porters. The Tradition of thefe is, that before Columbus died, thirty of this Family li- ved then in "Jona, and that upon feme provo- cation, Columbus entaird a Curfe upon them \ which was, That they might all perifh to the Number of five, and that they might never exceed that Number, to which they were ac- cordingly reduc'd : and ever fince, when any Woman of the Family was in Labour, both flie and the other four were afraid of Death; for if the Child that was to be then born, did not die, they fay one of the five was fure to die: and this they affirm to have been veri- fy d on every fuch occafion fucceffively to this day. I found one only of this Tribe living in the Ifle, and both he and the Natives of this and of all the Weftern Illes, unanimoufly de- clare, that this Qbfervation never faiPd ; and all this little Family is now extindl, except this one poor JMan, THE Life of Columbus^ written in the Jrijh Charadler, is in the Cuftody of John Mack-Neil in the Ifle of Barray ; another Copy of it is kept by Mack' Donald of Benbecula. THE Inhabitants have a Tradition, that Columbus fuffer'd no Women to ftay in the Ifle except the Nuns ; and that all the Tradefmen who wrought in it were oblig'd to keep their Wives and Daughters in the oppofite little Ifle, caird on that account Wo?nens-lp, They fay like wife. Wejleni Iflands of Scotland. 26*5 likewife, that it was to keep Women out of the Ifle, that he would not fuffer Cows, Sheep or Goats to be brought to it. BED J, in his Ecc/efiaflical Hiflory^ Lib. j. Cap. 4. gives this account of him: In the Year of our Lord 565. (at the time that Juftin the Younger fucceeded Jaflinian in the Govern- ment of the Roman Empire) the famous Qolunu ^ a Presbyter and Abbot, but in Habit and Life a Monk, came from IreUnd to Britain to preach the Word of God to the Northern Peo- vinces of the PiHs ; that is, to thofe who by high and rugged Mountains are feparated from the Southern Provinces. For the Southern Ficis^ who have their Habitation on this fide the fame Hills, had, as they affirm themfclves, re- nounc'd Idolatry, and receivM the Faith a long time before, by the preaching of Ninim the Bifhop, a moft Reverend and Holy Man, of the Country of the Britons^ who was regu- *larly educated at Kome^ in the Myfleries of Truth. I N the ninth Year of Meilochen^ Son to Pridius King of PtBs, a moft powerful King, Columbus^ by his Preaching and Example, con- verted that Nation to the Faith of Chrift Upon this account they gave him the Ifle above-men^ tion'd (which he calls ///i, Book ^. Cap. j.) to ereft a Monaftery in ; which his Succelfors pof- fefs to this day, and where he himfelf was bu- ried, t66 J Description of the ried, in the feventy feventh Year of his Age, and the thirty lecond after his going to Britam to preach the Gofpel. He built a noble Monaf- tery in Irelmd^ before his coming to Britain ; from both which Monafteries he and his Difci- ples founded feveral other Monafteries in Britain and Ireland : among all which, the Monaftery of the Ifland in which his Body is interred, has the Preheminence. The Ifle has a ReQor, who is always a Presbyter-Abbot, to whofe Jurif- didion the whole Province, and the Bifhops themfelves ought to be fubjed, tho the thing bs^ unufual, according to the Example of that firft Dodor, who was not a Bifliop, but a Presbyter and Monk ; and of whofe Life and Dodrine fome things are faid to be wrote by his Difciples. But whatever he was, this is certain, that he left SuccefTors eminent for their great Chaftity, divine Love, and regular Inftitution. THIS Monaftery furnifh'd Bifhops to feve- ral Dioceftes of England and Scotland ; and a- * mongft others, Jidnnus, who was fent from thence, and was Bifhop of Lindisfairn, now Holj-ljtand. The Wefiern Iflands of Scoclan Down, Wool,' Butter, Checfe, Cows, Horfes, T Fowl, 290 ^Description of the Fowl, Oil, and Barley. The Steward's De- puty is one of the Natives, and ftays always upon the place; he has free Lands, and an Omer of Barley from each Family ; and has the honour of being the firft and laft in their Boat, as they go and come to the lefler Ifles or Rocks. The antient meafure of Omer and Cubit con- tinues to be us'd in this Ifle. They have nei- ther Gold nor Silver, but barter among them- felves and the Steward's Men for what they want. Some years ago the Steward determin'd to exaft a Sheep from every Family in the Ifle, the number amounting to twenty feven ; and for this he put them in mind of a late Precedent, of their having given the like number to his Pre- decefTor. But they anfwer'd, that what they gave then, was voluntary, and upon an extra- ordinary occafion of his being Wind-bound in the Ifle, and that this was not to be a Cufl:om afterwards. However the Steward fent his Brother, and with him a competent number of Men, to take the Sheep from them by force ; but the Natives arming themfelves with their Dag< gers and Fifhing-Rods, attack'd the Steward's Brother, giving him fome blows on the head, and forc'd him and his Party to retire, and told him that they would pay no new Taxes: and by this fl:out refiftance, they preferv'd their Freedom from fuch Impofition. THE Inhabitants live contentedly together in a little Village on the Eaft-fide St. Kjlda, which Weft em Iflands of Scotland. 291 which they commonly call the Country; and the Ifle Borreray^ which is little more than two Leagues dirtant from them, they call tbe Nor- thern Country. The diftance between their Houfes is by them called the High-ftreet: their Houfes are low built, of Stone, and a Cement of dry Earth ; they have Couples and Ribs of Wood cover'd with thin earthen Turff, thatch'd over theie with Straw, and the RooFfecur'd on each fide with double ropes of Straw or Heath, pois'd at the end with many Stones : their Beds are commonly made in the Wall of their Hou- fes, and they lie on Straw, but never on Fea- thers or Down, tho they have them in greater plenty than all the Weftern Ifles befides. The Reafon for making their Bed-room in the Walls of their Houfes, is to make room for their Cows, which they take in during the Winter and Spring. THEY are very exaO: in their Properties, and divide both the Fifhing as well as Fowling Rocks with as great nicenefs as they do their Corn and Grafs ; one will not allow his Neigh- bour to fit and fifh on his Sear, for this being a part of his PoflTeffion, he will take care that no encroachment be made upon the leaft part of it : and this with a particular regard ro their Succeffors, that they may lofe no privilege de- pending upon any parcel of their Farm. They have but one Boat in the Ifle, and every Man hath a (hare in it, proportionably to the Acres T 2 of ip 2 J D E S C R I P T I O N 0/ fk of Ground for which they pay Rent. They are ftout Rowers, and will tug at the Oar for a long time, without any intermiffion. When they fail, they ufe no Compafs, but take their meafures from the Sun, Moon, or Stars; and they rely much on the courfe of the various Flocks of Sea- Fowl : and this laft is their fureft DireQ:ory. When they go to the lelTer Ifles and Rocks to bring home Sheep, or any other Purchafe, they carry an Iron Pot with them, and each Family furnifhes one by turns ; and the Owner on fuch Occafions has a fmall Tax paid him by all the Families in the Ifle, which IS by them call'd the Pot- penny. THERE was another Tax paid by each Family to one of the Natives, as often as they kindled a Fire in any of the leller Iflcs or Rocks, and that for the ufe of his Steel and Flint; and this was by them calPd the Fire-penny. THIS Tax was very advantageous to the Proprietor, but very uneafy to the Common- wealth, who could not be furnifli'd with Fire on thefe Occafions any other way. But I ^told them that the Chryftal growing in the Rock on the (hore would yield Fire, if ftruck with the back of a Knife, and of this I fhew'd them an Experiment ; which when they faw, was a very furprizing, and to them a profita- ble Difcovery in their efteem, being fuch as could be had by every Man in the Ifle ; and at the Wejiern JJlands of Scotland. 293 the fame time deliver'd them from an endlefs Charge : but it was very difobliging to the poor Man who loft his Tax by it. THE Inhabitants of St. Kj/da excel all thofe I ever faw in climbing Rocks : they told me that fome years ago their Boat was fplit to pieces upon the Weft fide of Borrera Ifle, and they were forc'd to lay hold on a bare Rock, which was fteep, and above twenty Fathom high; notwithftanding this difficulty, fome of them climb'd up to the top, and from thence let down a Rope and Plads, and fo drew up all the Boats Crew, tho the climbing this Rock would feem impoffible to any other except themfelveso THIS little Comraonwealthhath two Ropes of about twenty four Fathoms length each, for climbing the Rocks, which they do by turns; the Ropes are fecur'd all round with Cows Hides falted for the ufe, and which pre- ferves them from being cut by the edge of the Rocks. By the afliftance of thefe Ropes they purchafe a great number of Eggs and Fowl ; I have feen them bring home in a Morning twenty nine large Baskets all full of Eggs ; the leaft of the Baskets contained four hundred big Eggs, and the reft eight hundred and above of lelTer Eggs. They had with them at the fame time about two thoufand Sea-Fowl, and fome Fifh, together with fome Limpets, caird PatelU, T I the 294 ^Description of the the biggeft I ever faw. They catch many Fowls likewife, by laying their Gins, which are made of Horfe-hair, having a Noofe at the diftance of two Foot each ; the ends of the Rope at which the Noofe hangs, are fccur'd by Stone. THE Natives gave me an account of a very extraordinary Rifqiie which one of them ran as laying his Gins, which ^as thus : As he was walking barefoot along the Rock where he had fixed his Gin, he happenM to put his Toe in a Noofe, and immediately fell down the Rock, but hung by the Toe, the Gin being ftrong enough to hold him, and the Stones that fecur'd it on each end being heavy : the poor JVIan continued hangmg thus for the fpace of a Night on a Rock twenty Fathom height above the Sea, until one of his Neighbours hearing him cry, came to his refcue, drew him up by the Feet, and fo fav'd him. THESE poor People do fometimes fall down as they climb the Rocks, and perifli : Their Wives on fuch occafions make doleful Songs, which they call Lamentations. The chief Topicks are their Courage, their Dexte- rity in Climbing, and their great Affedion which they fhew'd to their Wives and Chil- dren. IT Wejlern IJlainls of Scotland. 295 I T is ordinary with a Fowler, after he has got his Purchafe of Fowls, to pluck the fatteft, and carry it home to his Wife as a mark of his AfFe£tion ; and this is called the Rock^FowI. THE Batchelors do in like manner carry this Rock-Fowl to their Sweet-hearts, and it is the greateft Prefent they can make, confidering the danger they run in acquiring it. THE richeft Man in the Ifle has not above eight Cows, eighty Sheep, and two or three Horfes. If a Native here have but a few Cattle, he will marry a Woman, tho fhe have no other Portion from her Friends but a Pound of Horfe-hair, to make a Gin to catch Fowls. THE Horfes here are very low of ftature, and employ'd only to carry home their Peats and Turff, which is their Fuel. The Inhabi- tants ride their Horfes (which were but eighteen in all) at the Anniverfary Cavalcade of All- Saints : this they never fail to obferve. They begin at the fhore, and ride as far as the Hou- fes; they ufe no Saddles of any kind, nor Bridle, except a Rope of Straw which manages the Horfe's head : and when they have all ta- ken the Horfes by turns, the Show is over lor that time, T4 THIS tp6 ^ Description o/tk THI S ](\2 produces the fineft Hawks in the Wefte'^n iflss, for they go many Leagues for their Prey, there being no Land Fowl in 5/. KJlda proper for them to ear, except Pigeons and Plovers. O N E of the Inhabitants of Sf, Kjlda, being fome time ago wind-bound in the Ifle of HaY" ries, was prevail'd on by fome of them that traded to GUfcow to go thither with them. He was a^onifti'd at the length of the Voyage, and of the great Kingdoms, as he thought 'em, that is Ifles, by which they fail'd ; thel'4rgeft in his way did not exceed twenty four Miles in length, but he confider'd how xv^ch they exceeded his own little Native Country, UPON his Arrival at GUfcow^ he was like one that had dropt from the Clouds into a new World ; whofe Language, Habit, &c. were in all refpe8:s new to him ; he never imagin'd that fuch big Houfes of Stone were made wi h hands and for the Pavements of the Streets, he thought it mud: needs be altogether Natural ; for he could not believe that Men woyld be at the pains to beat ftones into ^he ground to walk upon. He ftood dumb at the door of his Lodging with the greatefl; admiration ; and when he faw a Coach and two Horfes, he thought it to be a little Houfe they were drawing as; their Tail; with Men in it ; but he condemned Wejlern Ijlands of Scotland. 297 cohdemn'd the Coach-man for a Fool to fit fo uneafy, for lie thought it fafer to fit on the hotfes back. The Mechanifm of the Coach- Wheel, and its running about, wfts thegreateft of all his Wonders. WHEN he went through the Streets, he defiled to have one to lead him by the hand. Thomas Rofs a Merchant, and others, that took the diverfion to carry him through the Town, ask'd his Opinion of the high Church ? He anfwer'd, that it was a large Rock, yet there Vere fome in St. IQlda, much higher, but that thefe were the beft Caves he ever faw; for that was the Idea which he conceiv'd of the pillars and Arches upon which the Church ftands. When they carried him into the Church, he was yet more furpriz'd, and held up his hands with admiration, wondring how it was pofflble for Men to build fuch a prodi- gious Fabrick, which he fuppos'd to be the largefl: in the Univerfe. He could not imagine what the Pews were defignM for, and he fan- cied the People that wore Masks (not knowing whether t-hey were Men or Women) had been guilty of fome ill thing, for which they dar'd not lliew their Faces. He was amazed at Wo- mens wearing Patches, and fancied them to have been Blifters. Pendants feem'd to him the moft ridiculous of all things ; he condemn'd Perriwigs mightily, and much more the Pow- der u§'d in them : in fine, lie condemn'd all things ipS J Description of the things as fuperfluous, he faw not in his own Country. He look'd with amazement on every thing that was new to him. When he heard the Ch»rch» Bells ring, he was under a mighty Confternation, as if the Fabrick of the World had been in great diforder. He did not think there had been fo many People in the World, as in the City of GUfcow ; and it was a great Myftery to him to think what they could all defign by living fo many in one place. He wondred how they could all be furnifh'd with Provifion ; and when he faw big Loaves, he could not tell whether they were Bread, Stone, or Wood. He was amazM to think how they could be provided with Ale, for he never faw any there that drank Water. He wondred how they made them fine Clothes, and to fee Stockings made without being firft cur, and afterwards fewn. was no fmall wonder to him. He thought it foolifh in Women to wear thin Silks, as being a very improper habit for fuch as pretended to any fort of Employ- ment. When he faw the Womens Feet, he judged them to be of another fliape than thofe of the Men, becaufe of the different fhape of their Shoes. He did not approve of the heels of Shoes worn by Men or \Vomen ; and when he obferv'd Horfes with flioes on their Feet, and faftned with Iron Nails, he could not for- bear laughing, and thought it the moft ridicu- lous thing that ever fell under his Obfervation. He long'd to fee his Native Country again, and IVeftern Iflands of Scotland. 299 and paffionately wifh'd it were bleffed with Ale, Brandy, Tobacco and Iron, as Glafcow was. there's a Couple of large Eagles who have their Neft on the North end of the Ifle ; the Inhabitants told me that they commonly make their Purchafe in the adjacent Ifles and Continent, and never take fo much as a Lamb or hen from the Place of their Abode, where they propagate their kind. I forgot to give an account of a fingular Providence that happen'd to a Native in the Ifle of She, called Neil^ who when an Infant was left by his Mother in the Field, not far from the Houfes on the North fide Loch-Portrie ; an Eagle came in the mean time, and carried him away in its Talons as far as the South fide of the Loch, and there laying him on the ground, fome People that were herding Sheep there perceiv'd it, and hearing the Infant cry, ran immediately to its refcue; and by good Providence found him untouch'd by the Eagle, and carried him home to his Mother. He is ftill living in that Pa- rifh, and by reafon of this Accident, is diftin- guilh'd among his Neighbours by the Sirname of Eagle. An 3Po A Description o/t/;^ An Account of the Second-Sight, in Irifh calfd Taifli. TH E SeconA-Sight is a fingular Faculty of Seeing an otherwife invifible Obje£l, without any previous Means us'd by the Per- fon that fees it for that end ; the Vifion makes fuch a lively imprefifion upon the Seers, that they neither fee nor think of any thing elfe, except the Vifion, as long as it continues : and then they appear penfive or jovial, accord- ing to the Objeft which was reprefented to them. AT the fight of a Vifion, the Eye-lids of the Perfon are ereded, and the Eyes continue fla- ring until theObjefl vanifh. This is obvious to others who are by, when the Perfons hap- pen to fee a Vifion, and occur'd more than once to my own Obfervation, and to others that were with me. THERE is one in Skie^ of whom his Ac- quaintance obferved, that when he fees a Vi- fion, the inner part ot his Eye-lids turn fo far upwards, that after the Objeft difappears, he muft draw them down with his Fingers, and fometimes employs others to draw them down, which he finds to be the much eafier way. THIS Wefiern JJlands of Scotland. 301 THIS Faculty of the Second-Sight does not lineally defcend in a Family, as fome imagine, for I know feveral Parents who are endowed with it, but their Children not, & vice verfa: Neither is it acquired by any previous Compaft; And after a ftrid Enquiry, I could never learn from any among them, that this Faculty was communicable any way whatfoever. THE Seer knows neither the Objed, Time nor Place of a Vifion, before it appears ; and the fame Objedl is often feen by different Per- fons, living at acoafiderable diftance from one another. The true way of judging as to the Time and Circumftance of an ObjeO, is by ob- fervation ; for feveral Perfons of Judgment, without this Faculty, are more capable to judg of the defign of a Vifion, than a Novice that is a Seer. If an ObieQ: appear in the Day or Night, it will come to pafs fooner or later ac- cordingly. IF an ObjeQ: is feen early in a Morning (which is not frequent) it will be accomplifh'd in a few hours afterwards. If at Noon, it will commonly be accomp'ifh'd that very day. If in the Evening, perhaps that Night ; if after Candles be lighted, it will be accomplifh'd that Night : the latter always in accomplilhment, by Weeks, Months, and fometimes Years, ac- cording 502 ^ Description o/f/?^ cording to the time of Night the Vifion is feen. WHEN a Shroud is perceivM about one, it is a fure Prognoftick of Death : The time is judged according to the height of it about the Perfon ; for if it is not feen above the middle, Death is not to be expected for the fpace of a year, and perhaps fome Morths longer ; and as it is frequently feen to afcend higher towards the head. Death is concluded to be at hand within a few days, if not hqurs, as daily expe- rience confirms. Examples of this kind were ihewn me, when the Perfons of whom the ob- fervations then made enjoy'd perfe£l Health. ONE Inftance was lately foretold by a Seer that was a Novice, concerning the death of one of my Acquaintance ; thi$ was communicated to a few only, and with great confidence: I being one of the number, did not in the leaft regard it, until the death of the Perfon about the time foretold, did confirm me of the cer- tainty of the PrediQion. The Novice men- tion'd above, is now a skilful Seer, as appears from many late inft^nces;' he lives in the Parifh of St. Marfs^ the moft Nprthern in Skie, i I F a Wom.an is feca ^anding at a Man's left band, it is a prefage thaj fbe will be his Wife, whether they be iTiarrieA toothers, or unmar- ried at the time of the Apparition. IF Wejleni IJlands of Scotland. 30 j I F two or three Women are feen at once ftanding near a Man's left hand, fhe that is next him will undoubtedly be his Wife firft, and fo on, whether all three, or the Man be fingle or married at the time of the Vifion or not ; of which there are feveral late Inftances among thofe of my Acquaintance. It is an ordinary thing for them to fee a Man that is to come to the Houfe Ihortly after ; and if he is not of the Seer's Acquaintance, yet he gives fuch a lively defcription of his Stature, Com- plexion, Habir, &c. that upon his Arrival he anfwers the Chara£ler given him in all re- fpefts. I F the PerfoH fo appearing be one of the Seer's Acquaintance, he will tell his Name, as well as other Particulars ; and he can tell by his Countenance whether he comes in a good or bad humour. I H A VE been feen thus my felf by Seers of both Sexes at fome hundred miles diftance; fome that faw me in this manner, had never feen me perfonally, and it happened according to their ViHons, without any previous defign of mine to go to thofe Places, my coming there being purely accidental. I T is ordinary with them to fee Houfes, Gardens and Trees, in Places void of all three ; and 304 ^Description of the and this in procefs of time ufes to be accom- pliflied : as at Mogftot in the Ifle o^Skie, where there were but a few forry Co w-houfes thatched with Straw, yet in a few years after, the Vi- fion which appear'd often was accomplifliM, by the building of fcveral good Houfes on the very fpot reprefented to the Seers, and by the planting of Orchards there. TO fee a fpark of fire fall upon one's Arm or Breaft, is a forerunner of a dead Child to be feen in the arms of thofe Perfons 5 of which there are feveral frefh Inftances, ' T O fee a Seat empty at the time of one's fitting in it, is a prefage of that Perfon's death quickly after. W H E N a Novice, or one that has lately obtain'd the Second Sight, fees a Vifion in the Nighttime without doors, and comes near a fire, he prefently falls into a fwoon. SOME find themfelves as it were in a croud of People, having a Corps which they carry along with them ; and after fuch Vifions the Seers come in fweating, and defcribe the Peo- ple that appeared : if there be any of their Ac- quaintance among 'em, they give an account of their Names, as alfo of the Bearers, but they know nothing concerning the Corps. ALL Wejlem IJlands of Scothnd, 30 j ALL thofe who have the Second Sight do not always fee thefe Vifions at once, thothey be together at the tioie. But if one who has this Faculty, defignedly touch his Fellow-Seer at the inftant of a Vifion's appearing, then the fecond fees it as well as the firft ; and this is fometimes difcern'd by thofe that are near them on fuch occafions. THERE is a way of foretelling Death by a Cry that they call Tahk, which fome call a PVrath in the Low-land. THEY hear a loud Cry without doors, ex- actly refembling the Voice of fome particular Perfon, whofe death is foretold by it. The laft inftance given me of this kind was in the Village K/gg, in the Ifle of Skie. FIVE Women were fitting together in the fame Room, and all of them heard a loud Cry pafling by the Window ; they thought it plainy to be the Voice of a Maid who was one of the Number : fhe blufhed at the time, tho not fen- fible of her fo doing, contraded a Fever next day, and died that Week. THINGS alfo are foretold by Smellingy fometimes as follows. Fifh or Flefh is fre- quently Tmelled in a Fire, when at the fame time neither of the two are in the Houfe, or U in |o^ A Description of the in any probability like to be had in it for feme Weeks or Months ; for they feldom eat Flefb, and the the Sea be near them, yet they catch Fifh but feldom, in the Winter and Spring. This Smell feveral Perfons have, who are not endued with the Second Sight ^ and it is always accomplifh'd foon after. CHILDREN, Horfes and Cows fee the Second Sight, as well as Men and Women ad- vanced in years. THAT Children fee it, is plain from their crying aloud at the very inftantthat a Corps or any other Vifion appears to an ordinary Seer. I was prefent in a Houfe where a Child cried out of a fudden, and being ask*d the rea- fon of it, heanfwer'd that he had feen a great white thing lying on the Board which was in the Corner : but he was not believM, until a Seer who was prefent told them that the Child was in the right ; for, faid he, I faw a Corps and the Shroud about it, and the Board will be us'd as part of a Coffin, or fome way im- ployed about a Corps : and accordingly, it was made into a Coffin, for one who was in per- fect health at the time of the Vifion. THAT Horfes fee it, is likewife plain from their violent and fudden ftarting, wljen the Rider or Seer in Company with him fees a Vi- fion of any kind, night or day. It is ob- fervable Wefiern IJtands of Scotland. 307 fervable of the Horfe, that he will not go for- ward that way, until he be led about at fome diftance from the common Road, and then he is in a fweat. A HORSE faflned by the common Road t3n the fide of Loch-Skermefs in Skie^ did break his Rope at Noon-day, and run up and down without the leaft vifible caufe. But two of the Neighbourhood that happened to be ac a lit- tle diftance, and in view of the fiorfe, did at the fame time fee a confiderable number of Men about a Corps, directing their courfe to the Church of Snifort ; and this was accom- plifh'd within a few days after, by the Death of a Gentlewoman who lived thirteen Miles from that Church, and came from another Pa- rifh, from whence very few come to Snijort to be buried. THAT Cows fee the 5^ffo»i 5/^^ appears from this ; that when a Woman is milking a Cow, and then happens to fee the Second. Sight^ the Cow runs away in a great fright at the fame time, and will not be pacified for fome time after. BEFORE I mention more particulars dif- cover'd by the Second Sight y it may not be amifs toanfwer the Objeftions that have lately been made againft the Reality of it. U 2 Ohjen, 5o8 ^Description of the Ohjeff. f . THESE Seers are vifionary and melancholy People, and fancy they fee things that do not appear to them, or any body elfe. Mftv. THE People of thefe Ifles, and par- ticularly the Seers, are very temperate, and their Diet is fimple, and moderate, in quantity and quality ; fo that their Brains are not in all probability difordered by undigefted Fumes of Meat or Drink. Both Sexes are free from Hyfterick Fits, Convulfions, and feveral other Diftempers of that fort ; there's no Madmen a- mong them, nor any inftance of Self-murder. It is obferv'd among 'em, that a Man drunk never fees the Second Sight ; and he that is a Vifionary, would difcoverhimfelf in other things as well as in that ; and fuch as fee it, are not judged ro be Vifionaries by any of their Friends or Acquaintance. Objeci. 2. THERE is none among the Learned able to oblige the World with a fatisfy- ing account of thofe Vifions, therefore it is not to be believed. Anfr. I F every thing for which the Learned are not able to give a fatisfying account be condemn'd as impoffible, we may find many other ihings generally believed, that muft be f ejected as falfe by this Rule. For inftance. Yawning, Weflern IJlands of Scotland. ^09 Yawning, and its influence, and that the Load- ftone attrafts Iron ; and yet ihcfe are true as well as harmlefs, tho we can give no fatisfying account of their Caufes. And if we know fo little of natural Caufes, how much lefs can we pretend to things that are fupernatural ? Ohje^. J. THE Seers are Impoftors, and the People who beh'eve them are credulous, and eafily impofed upon. Jfifv. THE Seers are generally illiterate, and well-meaning People, and altogether void of defign, nor could I ever learn that any of them made the leaft gain by it, neither is it reputable among 'em to have that Faculty : be- fides the People of the Ifles are not fo credu- lous as to believe implicitly, before the thing foretold is accomplifhed ; but when it adlually comes to pafs afterwards, it is not in their power to deny ir, without offering violence to their Senfes and Reafon. Befides, if the Seers were Deceivers, can it be reafonable to imagine, that all the Iflanders, who have not the Second Sight ^ fhould combine together, and offer vio- lence to their Underftandings and Senfes, to force themfelves to believe a Lye from Age to Age. There are feveral Perfons among them, whofe Birth and Education raife them above the fufpicion of concurring with an Import ure, merely to gratify an illiterate and contemptible fpri: of Perfons ; nor can a reafonable Man be- U J iievQ 510 ^ Description o/t/?e lieve that Children, Horfes and Cows could be pre-ingaged in a Combination to perfuade the World of the Reahty of the Second Sight, SUCH as deny thofe Vifions, give their af- fent to ftveral ftrange Paflages in Hiftory, upon the Authoritv aforefaid of Hiftorians that lived feveral Centuries before our time ; and yet they deny the People of this Generation the liberty to believe their intimate Friends and Acquain- tance, Men of Probity and unqueftionable Re- putation, and of whofe Veracity they have grea- ter certainty, than we can have of any antient Hiftorian, EVERY Vifion that is feen comes exaGly to pafs, according to the true Rules of Obfer- vation, tho Novices and heedlefs Perfons do not always judg by thofe Rules. I re- member the Seers return'd me this Anfwer to my ObjeQiou, and gave feveral Inftan- ces to that purpofe, whereof the following is one. A BOY of my Acquaintance was often fuN priz'd at the fight of a CofBn clofe by his Shoulder, which put him into a fright, and made him to believe it was a. forerunner of his own Death, and this his Neighbours alfo judg- ed to be the meaning of that Vifion ; but a Seer that lived in the Village Kjiockow^ where the Boy was then a Servant, told them that they werO- Weftern Jflands of Scotland. ^ 1 1 were under a great miftake, and defired the Boy to lay hold of the firft opportunity that offered ; and when he went to a Burial, to remember to a8: as a Bearer for fome moments : and this he did accordingly, within a few days after, when one of his Acquaintance died ; and from that time forward he was never troubled with feeing a Coffin at his Shoulder, tho he has feen many at a diftance, that concerned otherSi He is now reckoned one of the exadeft Seers in the Parifh of St. Maries in Skie, where he lives. THERE is another inftance of a Woman in Skie^ who frequently fawa Vifion reprefent- ing a Woman having a Shroud about her up to the middle, but always appear'd with her back towards her, and the Habit in which it feem'd to be drefsM refembled her own : this was a Myftery for fome time, until the Wo- man try'd an Experiment to fatisfy her Curio- iity, which was, to drefs her felf contrary to the ufual way ; that is, flie put that part of her Clothes behind, which was always before, fan- cying that the Vifion at the next appearing would be theeafier dillinguifhed : and it fell out accordingly, for the Vifion foon after prefented it felf with its Face and Drefs looTcing towards the Woman, and it prov'd to refemble her felf in all points, and fhe died in a little time after. U 4 THERE ^pi ^Description of the THERE are Vifions feen by feveral Per- fons, in whofe days they are not accomplifhed ; and this is one of the Reafons, why fome things have been feen that are faid never to come to pa fs, and there are alfo feveral Vifions feen which are not underftood until they be accom- plifhed. THE 'Seco'^d Sight: is not a late Difcovery feen by one or two in a Corner, or a remote Ifle, but it is feen by many Perfons of both Sexes in feveral Ifles, feparated above forty or fifty Leagues from one another : the Inhabitants of, many of thefe Ifles, never had the lead Converie by Word or Writing ; and this facul- ty of feeing Vifions, having continued, as we are informed by Tradition, ever fince the Planta- tion of thefe Ifles, without being difproved by the nicefl: Sceptick, after the ftriftefl: enquiry, feems to be a clear proof of its Reality. I T is obfervable, that it was much more common twenty Years ago than at prefent ; for one in ten do not fee it now, that faw it then. THE Second Sigh is not confined to the Weflern Ifles- alone, for I have an account that it is likewife feen in feveral parts of Holland, but particularly in Bommei, by a Woman, for which flie is courted by fome, and dreaded by others. She fees a Smoke about one's Face, which Weftern Ipands of Scotland. 5 1 3 which is a forerunner of the Death of a Perfon fo feen ; and (he did aftually forerel the death of feveral that Hved there : fhe was living in that Town this laft Winter. THE Corps-candles, or Dead-mens Lights in Wales^ which are certain Prognofticks of Death, are well known and attefted. THE Second Sight is iikewife ktn m tfie Ifle of Man, as appears by this Inftance : Cap- tain Leaths, the Chief Magiftrate of Belfafi, in his Voyage 1690, loft thirteen Men by a vio- lent Storm, and upon his landing in the Ifleof Man, an antient Man, Clerk to a Parifh there, told him immediately that he had loft thirteen Men : the Captain enquiring how he came to the knowledg of that, heanfwered, that it was by thirteen Lights which he had feen come into the Church-yard ; as Mr. Sacheverel tells us, in his late Defcriptiori of the Ifleof Man. IT were ridiculous to fuppofe a Combina- tion between the People of the Weftern llles of Scotland, Holland, Wales, and the Ifle of Man, (ince they are feparated by long Seas, and are People of different Languages, Governments, and Interefts: They have no Correfpondence between them, and it is probable, that thofe in- habiting the North-Weft Ifles have never yet heard that any fuch Vifions are feen in Holland, Wales, or the ifle of Man. FOUR 314 ^ Description o/f/^e FOUR Men of the Village Flodgery'm She being at Supper, one of them did fuddenly let fall his Knife on the Table, and looked with an angry Countenance: the Company obferving it, enquired his Reafon ; but he return'd them no anfwer until they had fupp'd, and then he told them that when he let fall his Knife, he faw a Corps with the .^hroud about it laid on the Table, which furpriz'd him, and that a little time would accoaiplifli the Vifion. It fell out ac- cordingly, for in a few days after one of the Family died, and happened to be laid on that very Table. This was told me by the Matter of the Family. DANIEL STEWART an Inhabitant of Hole in the North-Parifh of St. Maries in the Ifle o( Skie, faw at Noon-day five Men on Horfe- back riding Northward ; he ran to meet them, and when he came to the Road, he could fee none of them, which was very furprizing to him, and he told it his Neighbours : The very next day he faw the fame number of Men and Horfe coming along the Road, but was not fo ready to meet them as before, until he heard them fpeak, and then he found them to be thofc that he had feen the day before in a Vifion ; this was the only Vifion of the kind he had ever feen in his Life. The Company he faw was Sir Do- nald Mac'Dondd and his Retinue, who at the time Weftern Iflands of Scotland. 3 i 5- time of the Vifion was at Armidil, near forty Miles South from the place where the Man lived.' A W O M A N of StornbAj in Lewis had a Maid who faw Vifions, and often fell into a Swoon ; her Miflrefs was very much concern'd about her, but could not find out any means to prevent her feeing thofe things ; at laft fhe re- foIv*d to poui* fome of the Water us'd in Baptifm on her Maid^s Face, believing this would pre- vent her feeing any more Sights of this kind. And accordingly {ht carried her Maid with her next Lord's Day, and both of 'em Tat near the Bafin in which the Water ftood, and after Bap- tifm before the Minifter had concluded the laft Prayer, fhe put her hand in the Bafin, took up as much Water as fhe could, and threw it on the Maid's Face; at which ft range Action the Minifter and the Congregation were equally fur- priz'd. After Prayer, the Minifter enquir'd of the Woman the meaning of fuch an unbecoming and diftraQed Adion ; fiie told him, it was to prevent her Maid's feeing Vifions : and it fell out accordingly, for from that time flie never once more faw a Vifion of any kind. This ac- count was given me by Mr. Morifon Minifter of the Place, before feveral of his Parifhioners who knew the truth of it. I fubmit the matter of Faft to the Cenfure of the Learned ; but for my own part, I think it to -have been one of Sa- tan's Devices, to make credulous People have an efteem for Holy Water, JOHN 31^ A Description of th ^OHN MORJSON o( Bragir in Lewi^, a Perfonof unqueftionable Sincerity and Reputa- tion, told me, that within a Mile of his Houfe a Girl of twelve Years old was troubled at the frequent fight of a Vifion, refembling her felf in Stature, Complexion, Drefs, &c. and feemM to ftand or fit, and to be always imployed as the Girl was ; this prov'd a great trouble to her: her Parents being much concern'd about it, con- fulced the faid John Morifony who enquired if the Girl was intruded in the Principles of her Religion, and finding fhe was not, he bid them teach her the Creed, ten Commandments, and the Lord's Prayer, and that (he fhould fay the latter daily after her Prayers. Mr. Morifon and his Family join'd in Prayer in the Girl's behalf, begging that God of his goodnefs would be pleas'd to deliver her from the trouble of fuch a Vifion : after which, and the Girl's complying with the advice as above, fhe never faw it any more. A M A M living three Miles to the North of the faid John Morifon,- is much haunted by a Spirit, appearing in all points like to himfelf; and he asks many impertinent Queftions of the Man when in the Fields, but fpeaks not a word to him at home, tho he feldom mifTes to appear to him every night in the Houfe, but to no o- ther Perfon. He told this to one of his Neigh- bours, who advis'd him to caft a live Coal at the Weflern Ijlands of Scotland. 317 the face of the Vifion the next time he appear'd : the Man did fo next night, and all the Family faw the Adtion ; but the following day the fame Spirit appear'd to him in the Fields, and beat him feverely, fo as to oblige him to keep his Bed for the fpace of fourteen days after. Mr. Morifon Minifter of the Parifh, and feve- ral of his Friends came to fee the Man, and join'd in Prayer that he might be freed from this trouble, but he was flill haunted by that Spirit a year after I left Lewis, A MAN m Kjfockorv, in the Parifh of St. Maries^ the Northermoft in Skie^ being in per- feft health, and fitting with his Fellow-Servants at Night, was on a fudden taken ill, dropt from his Seat backward, and then fell a vomiting ; at which all the Family were much concern'd, he having never been fubjed to the like before : but he came to himfelf foon after, and had no fort of pain about him. One of the Family, who was accuftomed to fee the Second Sight, told them that the Man's Illnefs proceeded from a very ftrange Caufe, which was thus : An ill- natur'd Woman (naming her by her Name) who lives in the next adjacent Village of LV;?- skittag, came before him in a very furious and angry manner, her Countenance full of PafTion, and her Mouth full of Reproaches, and threat- ned him with her Head and Hands, until he fell over as you have feen him. This Woman had a fancy for the Man, but was like to meet with a difappointment as to his marrying her. This JiS y^ Description of the Thislnftance was told me by theMafterof the Family, and others who were prefent when it happened. ONE that liv'd in St. Maries on the Weft fide of the Ifle of Skie^ told Mr. Mack-Pherfin the Minifier, and others, that he faw a Vifion of a Corps coming towards the Church, not by the common Road, but by a more rugged Way, which rendcr'd the thing incredible, and tion of tJ?e Sir Normand Mack-Leod, and fome others pliying at Tables, at a Game call'd in Irifi Falmer-more, wherein there are three of a fide, and each of them throw the Dice by turns ; there happen'd to be one difficult Point in the difpofingof one of the Table-men : thisoblig'd the Gamefter to deliberate before he was to change his Man, fince upon the difpofing of it the winning or lofing of the Game depended. At laft the Butler, who flood behind, advifed the Player where to place his Man ; with which he comply'd, and won the Game. This being thought extraordinary, and Sir Normand hear- ^icg one whifper himin the Ear, ask'd whoad- vis'd him fo skilfully ? He anfwer'd, it was the Butler ; but this feem'd more ftrange, for he could not play at Tables. Upon this, Sir Nar- ptdnd ask'd him how long it was fince he had Jearnt to play? and the Fellow own'd that he never playM in his life, but that he faw the Spirit Browny reaching his Arm over the Player's H«ad, and touch'd the Part with his Finger, on the Point where the Table- man was to be plac'd. This was told me by Sit Norm ajid an^: others,^. who happen'd to be prefent at the tiine.';^'^.;j;';7V DANIEL DO^ above. nam'd, foretold the Death of a young Woman in Minginis^ with- iQ.Jefs than twenty four hours before tjie time ; and accordingly fhe died fuddenly in the Fields, tho Wejlern tjldnis of Scotland. 3 2 1 tho at the time of the Predi6lion fhe was in per- ft^ Health ; but the Shroud appearing clofe about her Head, was the Ground of his Confi- dence, that her Death was at hand. THE fame Daniel Dow foretold the Death of a Child in his Matter's Arms, by feeing a Spark of Fire fall on his left Arm ; and this was likewife accomplifh'd foon after the Predi£lion. SOME of the Inhabitants o{ Harries faih'ng round the Ifle of Skie^ with a defign to go to the oppofite main Land, were flrangely fur- priz'd with an Apparition of two Men hanging down by the Ropes that fecur'd the Matt, but could not conjedure what it meant. They purfu'd the Voyage, but the Wind turn'd con- trary, and fo forc'd them into Broadford in the Ifle of Skte, where they found Sir Donald Mack- Donald keeping a Sheriffs Court, and two Cri- minals receivmg Sentence of Death there : the Ropes and Matt of that very Boat were made ufe of to hang thofe Criminals. This was told me by feveral, who had this Inftance from the Boat's Crew. SEVERAL Perfons living in a certain Fa- mily, told me that they had frequently feen two Men ftanding at a young Gentlewoman's left Hand, who was their Matter's Daughter : they told the Mens Names ; and being her Equals, it was not doubted, but (he would be X married 3 2 2 J DESC'KlVTlOt^ of the married to one of them ; and perhaps to the other, after the Death of the firll. Some time after, a third Man appeared, and he feem'd al- ways to ftand nearefl: to her of the three, but the Seers^ did not know him, tho they could defcribe him exactly. And within fome Months after, this Man, who was feen laft, didaftually come to the Houfe, and fulfill'd the Defrip- tion given of him by thofe who never faw him but in a Vifion ; and he married the Woman fhortly after. They live in the Ifle of Skie ; both they and others confirm'd the Truth of this In- fiance, when I faw them. MACK,-LEODh Porter pafling by a Gal- ley that lay in the Dock, faw her fill'd with , Men, having a Corps, and near to it he faw fe- ■. veral of Mack-Leodh Relations: this did in a manner perfuade him that his Mafter was to i die foon after, and that he was to be the Corps which was to be tranfported in the Galley. Some Months after the Vifion was feen, Mack- Leod^ \i^\i\\ feveral of his Relations and others, went to the Ifle of Mull ; where fome days af- ter, Mack Lean o{ Tor losk happen' d to die, and his Corps was tranfported in the Galley to his Burial-place, and Mack-Leod's Relations were on board to attend the Funeral, while Mack- Leod fldid afiiore, and went along with the Corps al'rer their Landing. Mr. Wejlern I/lands of Scotland* J 23 Mr. Dougd Mack'Pherfon, Minifter of St. Maries on the Weft fide of Skie, having his Servants in the Kiln, drying of Corn, the Kiln happened to talte fire, but was foon extinguifh'd. And within a few Months after, one of the Minifter^s Servants told him that the Kiln would be on fire again fhortly ; at which he grew very angry with his Man, threatning to beat him if he fhould prefume to prophefy Mifchief, by that lying way of the Second-ftght. Notwithftanding this, the Man afTerted pofi- tively, and with great AfTurance, that the Kiln would certainly take fire, let them ufe all the Precautions they could. Upon this, Mr. Mack^ Pherfon had the Curiofity to enquire of his Man, if he could guefs within what fpace of time the Kiln would take fire ? He told him before HaUowtide. Upon which, Mr. Mack" Pherfon call'd for the Key of the Kiln, and told his Man, that he would take care of the Kiln until the limited Day was expir'd, for none fhaH enter it fooner ; and by this means I fhall make the Devil, if he is the Author of fuch Lyes, and you both Lyars. For this end he kept the Key of the Kiln in his Prefs, until the time was over, and then deliver'd the Key to the Servants, concluding his Man to be a Fool and a Cheat. Then the Servants wen| to dry Corn in the Kiln, and were charg'd to have a fpecial Care of the Fire ; yet in a little time af^ ter the Kiln took Fire, and it was all in a flame, K % aceor- 324 ^ Descriptio N o/t^e according to the Prediftion, the the Map miftook the time. He told his Mafter, th^t within a few Monnents after the Fire of the Kiln had been firft extinguifli'd, he faw it all in a flame again ; and this appearing to him in the day time, it would come to pafs the fooner. 'JOHN Mack-Normand, and Darnel Mack^ | Ewm, travelling along the Road, two Miles to • the North of Snifort Church, faw a Body of Men coming from the North, as if they had a Corps with 'em to be buried m Snifort: this determin'd them to advance towards the Ri- ver, which was then a little before them, and having waited at the Ford, thinking to meet thofe that they expeded with the Funeral, were altogether difappointed ; for after taking a view of the Ground all round them, they dif- cover'd tbat it was only a Vifion. This was very furprizing to them both, for they never faw any thing by way of the Second- ftght be- fore or after that time. This they told their Neighbours when they came home, and it happen'd that about two or three Weeks af- ter a Corps came along that Road from ano- ther Parifli, from which few or none are brought to Snifort^ except Perfons of Diftinc- fion ; fo that this Vifion was exadly accom- plilhcd. Wejlern IJIands of Scorknd, p 5 A GENTLExMAN who is a Native of Skiey did, when a Boy, difoblige a Seer in the Ifle of Rafayy and upbraid him for his Uglinefs, as be- ing black by Name and Nature. At la ft the Seer told him very angrily, My Child, if I am black, you'll be red e'er long. The Maflcr of the Family chid him for this, and bid him give over his fbolifh PrediQions, fince no body be- liev'd them; but next Morning the Boy being at play near the Houfes, fell on a Stone, and woun- ded himfelf in the Forehead, fo deep, that to this day there's a hallow Scar in that Fart of it. 'JAMES BEATON, Surgeon in the Ifle of North'Vift^ told me, that being in the Ifle of Mull^ 2L Seer told him confidently, that he was fhortly to have a bloody Forehead ; but he difregarded it, and call'd the Seer a Fool. However, this James being call'd by fome of the Mackleans to go along with them to at- tack a VefTel belonging to the Earl of Argyle, who was then coming to polTefs Mull by force ; they attacked the Veikl, and one of the Mack- Leans being wounded, thefaid J^^w^i while dref- (ing the Wound, happened to rub his Forehtad, and then fame of his Patient's Blood ftuck to his Face, which accomplifli'd the Vifion. MY Lord Vifcount Tarhat, one of her Ma- jefty's Secretaries of State in Scot landy travelling ir> the Shire of Rofs^ in the North of Scotland ^ H came. Ii6 ^ Description o/t^e came into a Houfe, and fat down in an arm'd Chair : one of his Retinue who had the Faculty of feeing the Second-fight, fpoke to fome of my Lord's Company, defiring them to perfuade him to leave the Houfe ; for, laid he, there is a great Misfortune will attend fomebody in it, and that within a few Hours. This was told my Lord, but he did not regard it : The Seer did foon after renew his Intreaty, with much Ea- gernefs, begging that my Lord might remove out of that unhappy Chair, but had no other anfwer than to be expos'd for a Fool. Some Hours after my Lord remov'd, and purfu'd his Journey ; but was not gone many Hours when a Trooper riding upon the Ice, near the Houfe whence my Lord remov'd, fell and broke his Thigh, and being afterwards brought into that Houfe, was laid in the armed Chair, where his Wound was drefs'd, which accomplifhed the Vifion. I heard this Inftance from feveral Hands, and had it fince confirm'd by my Lord himfeif. A MAN in the Parifh of St. Maries^ in the Barony of Trotemefs in Skie, called Lachlifi, lay fick for the fpace of fome Months, decaying daily, infomuch that all his Relations and Ac- quaintance defpair'd of his Recovery. One of the Parifhioners, called Archibald Mack-Donald^ being reputed famous for his Skill in foretelling things to come, by the Second-fight ^ afferted poflitively that the Tick Man would never die in Wejleni IJlands of Scothnd. 327 in the Houfe where he then lay. This being thought very improbable, all the Neighbours condemn'd Archibald as a foolifh Prophet : upon which, he paflionately affirm'd, that if ever that fick Man dies in the Houfe where he now lies, I fhall from henceforth renounce my Fart of Heaven j adding withal, the Sick Man was to be carried alive out of the Houfe in which he then lay, but that he would never return to it alive ; and then he nam'd the Perfons that Hiould carry out the Sick Man alive. The Man having liv'd fome Weeks longer than his Friends ima- gin'd, and proving uneafy and troublefom to all the Family ; they confidered that Archibald had reafon for his peremptory Affertion, and therefore they refolvM to carry him to a Houfe joining to that in which he then lay : but the Poor Man would by no means give his confent to be mov'd from a Place where he believ'd he fhould never die ; fo much did he rely on the Words of Archibald, of whofe Skill he had feen many Demonttrations. But at laft his Friends being fatigu'd day and night with the Sick Man's Uneafinefs, they carried him againft his Inclination to another little Houfe, which was only feparated by an Entry from that in which he lay, and their Feet were fcarce within the Threfhold, when the Sick Man gave up the Ghoft ; and it was remarkable that the two Neighbours, which Archibald named would carry him out, were aftually the Perfons that did fo. At the time of the Prediction, Archi- X 4 bald 3i8 ^Description of the ^ald faw him carried out as above, and when he was within the Door of the other Houfe, he faw him all white, and the Shroud being about him, occafion'd his confidence as above men- tionM. This is Matter ot Faft, which Mr, Da- mel Nicholfon Minifter of the Parifh, and a con- fiderable Number of the PariChioners, are able to vouch for, and ready to atteft, if occafion requires. THE fame Archibald Maek-DonaU happen'd to be in the Village Kjtockow one night, and before Supper told the Family, that he had juft then feen the ftrangeft thing he ever faw in his Life j to wit, a Man with an ugly long Cap, always (baking his Head : but that the ftrangeft of all, was a little kind of a Harp which he had, with four Strings only, and that it had two Harts- Horns fixed in the Front of it. All that heard this odd Vifion, fell a laughing at Archibald, telling him that he was dreaming, or had not his Wits about him ; fince he preten- ded to fee a thing that had no being, and was not fo much as heard of in any Fart of the World. All this could not alter Archibald's Opi- nion, who told them that they muft excufe him, if he laugh'd at them after the Accomplifhmenc of the Vifion. Archibald returnM to his own Houfe, and within three or four days after, a Man with the Cap, Harp, &c. came to the Houfe, and the Harp, Strings, Horns, and Cap anfwer'd the Defcription qf them at firft view : he fhook ' ' ' ■ hi^ Wejlern Ifands of Scotland. 319 bis Head when he play 'd, for he had twoBeUs fixed to his Cap. This Harper was a poor Man, and made himlelf a Buffoon for his Bread, and was never before fcen in thofe Parts; for at the time of the Predidion, he was in the Iile otBarraj, which is above twenty Leagues <){{- tant from that Part of Sk^e. This Story is vouched by Mr. Doftiel Martm, and all his Fa- mily, and fuch as were then prefent, and live in the Village where this happen'd. Mr. Daniel Nicholfon Minifter of St. Maries in Skte^ the Parifh in which Archibald Mack-Donald liv'd, told me, that one Sunday after Sermon at the Chappel Vge, he took occafion to enquire oi Archibald^ it he ftill retain'd that unhappy Fa- culty of feeing the Second-fight^ and he wifhed him to lay it afide, if pofTible ; for, faid he, it is no true Charader of a good Man. Archibald was highly difpleas'd, and anfwer'd, That he hopM he was no more unhappy than his Neigh- hours, for feeing what they could not perceive ; adding, I had, fays he, as ferious Thoughts as my Neighbours, in time of hearing a Sermon to-day, and even then I faw a Corps laid on the Ground clofe to the Pulpit, and I affure you it will be accomplifh'd fhortly, for it was in the day-time. Mr. Nicholfon and feveral Pariibioners then pre- fent, endeavour'd to diiTuade Archibald from this Difcourfe ; but he ftill afferted that it would quickly come to pafs, and that all his other Pre- diftions of this kind had ever been accompli fh'd. There! ^ 5 O '^ D E S C R I P T I O N 0/ ^/^e There was none in the Parifh then fick, and few are buried at that little Chappel, nay fometimes not one in a Year is buried there ; yet when Mr. JSJicholfon return'd to preach in the faid Chappel, two or three Weeks after, he found one buried in the very fpot i\2i\x\!^h^ Archihdd.. This Sto- ry is vouched by Mr. Nkholfon, and feveral of the Parifhioners ftill living. Mr. Daniel Nicholfon above mention'd, being a Widower at the Age of 44, this Archibdd faw in a Vifion a young Gentlewoman in a good Drefs frequently ftanding at Mr. NkhoL fan's right Hand, and this he often told the Pa- rifhioners pofitively ; and gave an account, of her Complexion, Stature, Habit, and that /he would in time be Mr. Nicholfon's Wife : this being told the Minifter by feveral of 'em, he de- fired them to have no regard to what that foolifh Dreamer had faid ; for, faid he, it is twenty to one if ever I marry again. Archibald hap- pened to fee Mr. Nicholfon foon after this flight- ing Expreflion, however he perfifted ftill in his Opinion, and faid confidently that Mr. Nichol- fon would certainly marry, and that the Woman would in all Points make up the Charader he gave of her, for he faw her as often as he faw Mr. Nicholfon. This Srory was told me above a Year before the Accomplifhment of it ; and Mr. Nicholfon^ fome two or three Years after Ar- chibaUh Prediction, went to a Synod in Boot^ where he had the firft Opportunity of feeing one Wejlern Iflanis of Scotland. 331 one Mrs. Morifon, and from that moment fan- cied her, and afterwards married her. She was no fooner feen in the Ifle of Skie, than the Na- tives, who had never feen her before, were fatif- fy'd that fhedid compleatly anfwer the Charac- ter given of her, &c. by Archibald. ONE who had been accufl:bmed to fee the Second- fight, in the Ifle of Egg, which lies about three or four Leagues to the South- Wefl: Part of the Ifle of Skie.^ told his Neighbours that he had frequently feen an Apparition of a Man in a red Coat lin'd with blue, and having on his Head a ftrange fort of blue Cap, with a very high Cock on the fore-part of it, and that the Man who there appcar'd, was kifling a comely Maid in the Village where the Seer dwelt; and therefore declared that a Man in fuch a Drefs would certainly debauch or marivy fuch a Young Woman. This unufuai Vifion did much expofe the Seer, for all the Inhabitants treated him as a Fool, tho he had on feveral other occafions fore- told things that afterwards were accomplifhed ; this they thought one of the mofl: unlikely things to be accompliflied, that could have en- tred into any Man's Head. This Story was then difcours'd of in the Ifle of Skie, and all that heard it, laugh'd at it ; it being a Rarity to fee any Foreigner in Egg, and the Young Woman had no thoughts of going any where elfe. This Story was told me at Edinburgh^ by Nor- mand Mack-Leod of Grabm^ in Sep ember i68o. he 332 ^ Description o/ /^f he being juft then come from the Ifle of Skte ; and there were prefent, the Laird of Mack-Leod^ and Mr. Alexander Mdck-Leod Advocate, and others. ABOUT a Year and a half after the late Re- volution, Major FergufoHy now Colonel of one of her Majefty's Regiments of Foot, was then fent by the Government with fix hundred Men, and fome Frigots to reduce the Iflanders that had appear'd for K. jT. and perhaps the fmall Ifle of Egg had never been regarded, tho fome of the Inhabitants had been at the Battle a^ Kjli- cranky^ but by a mere Accident, which deter- min'd Major Fergufon to go the Ifle of Egg^ which was this : A Boat's Crew of the Ifle of Egg^ happen'd to be in the Ifle of 5/('/V, andkill'd one of Major Fergufonh Soldiers there ; upon no- tice of which, the Major direfted hisCourfe to the Ifle of £gg^,f^where he was fufliciently re- veng'd of the Natives : and at the fame time, the Maid above mention'd being very handfom, was then forcibly carried on board one of the VefTels, by fome of the Soldiers, where ftie was kept above twenty four Hours, and ravifhM, and brutiflily robb'd at the fame time of her find Head of Hair : She is fince married in the Jfle, and in good Reputation \ her Misfortune being pitied, and not reckon'd her Crime. Sir Normand M/tck-Leod^ who has his Re- fiJence ip the Ifle of Bernera, which lies be- ^we^n Wejlern I/lands of Scotland. 333 tweeo thelfle of North-FiB and Harries, went to the Ifle of Skie about Bufincfs, without ap- pointing any time for his return : his Servants in his abfence, being all together in the large Hail at Night, one of them who had been ac- cuftomed to fee tht Second-Sight , told the reft they muft remove, for they would have abun- dance of other Company in the Hall that night. One of his Fellow-Servants anfwer'd, that there was very little Appearance of timt, and if he had feen any Viiion of Company, it was not like to be accomplifh'd this Night ; But the Seer infifted upon it, that it was. They continu'd to argue the Improbability of it, becaufe of the Darknefs of the Night, and the Danger of coming thro the Rocks that lie round the Ifle : but within an Hour after, one of Sir Nor* mAnd's Men came to the Houfe, bidding them provide Lights, &e. for his Mafter had newly landed ; and thus the Prediftion was immediate- ly accomplilhed. Sir Normand hearing of it, call'd for the Seer, and examined him about it ; he anfwer'd, that he had feen the Spirit call'd Browny^ in hu- man Shape, come feveral times, and make a (hew of carrying an old Woman that fat by the Fire to the Door ; and at lafl: feem'd to carry her out by neck and heels, which made him laugh heartily, and gave occafion to the reft to conclude he was mad, to laugh fo without reafon. This Inflance was' told me by Sir NormAnd himfelf. FOUR 334 ^^Description of the FOUR Men from the Ifle of Skie and H^f. ries having gone to Barhadoes, ftay'd there for fourteen Years ; and tho they were wont to fee the Second-fight in their Native Country, they never faw it in B/trhadoes : but upon their return to England^ the firft Night after their landing they faw the Second-fight, as was told me by fe* veral of their Acquaintance. JOHN MORIS ON, who lives in Bernera of Harries, wears the Plant call'd Fuga Damonum few'd in the Neck of his Coat, to prevent his feeing of Vifions, and fays he never faw any fince he firft carried that Plant about him. He fufter'd me to k^X the Plant in the Neck of his Coat, but would by no means let me open the Seam, tho I offer'd him a Reward to let me do it. A SPIRIT, by the Country People call'd Brownj, was frequently feen in all the moft confiderable Families in the Ifles and North of Scotland, in the fhape of a tall Man ; but with- in thefe twenty or thirty Years paft, he is feen but rarely. THERE were Spirits alfo that appeared in the fliape of Women, Horfes, Swine, Cats, and fome like fiery Balls, which would follow Men in the Fields ; but there has been but few Inftances of thefe for forty Years paft. THESE Wejlern Iflands of Scotland. 335 THESE Spirits us'd alfo to form Sounds in the Air, refembling thofe of a Harp, Pipe, Crowing of a Cock, and of the grinding of Querns : and fometimes they have heard Voices in the Air by Night, finging Iri/h Songs ; the Words of which Songs fome of my Acquain- tance ftill retain. One of 'em refembled the Voice of a Woman who had died fome time be- fore, and the Song related to her State in the other World. Thefe Accounts I had from Perfons of as great Integrity as any are in the World. A 33^ ^ Description i^f the A 'Brief Account of the Advantages the Ifles afford by Sea and Landy and particularly for a Fi[hing Trade. TH E North- Weft Ifles are of all other moft capable of Improvement by Sea and Land ; yet by reafon of their Diftance from Trading Towns, and becaufe of their Language, which is Irifh^ the Inhabitants have never had any opportunity to trade at home or abroad, or to acquire Mechanical Arts, and other Scien- ces : fo that they are ftill left to aQ: by the force of their natural Genius, and what they could learn by obfervation. They have not yet arriv'd to a competent Knowledg in Agri- culture, for which caufe many Trafts of rich Ground lie neglected, or at leaft but meanly improv'd, in proportion to what they might be. This is the more to be regretted, becaufe the People are as capable to acquire Arts or Sciences, as any other in Europe, If two or more Perfons skill'd in Agriculture were fenc from the Low- lands, to each Parifli in the Ifles, they would foon enable the Natives- to furnifh themfelves with fuch Plenty of Corn, as would maintain ail their poor and idle People ; many of which, for want of Subfiftence at home, are forc'd to feek their Livelihood in foreign Countries, to the great Lofs, as weli as Diflio- nour, Weflern Jflands of Scothnd. 337 nour of the Nation. This would enable them alfo to furnifh the oppofite barren Parts of the Continent with Bread ; and fo much the more, that in plentiful Years they afford them good Quantities of Corn in this infant State of their Agriculture. They have many large Parcels of Ground never yet manur'd, which if cultiva- ted, would maintain double the Number of the prefent Inhabitants, and increafe and preferve their Cattle; many of which, for want of Hay or Straw, die in the Winter and Spring: fo that I have known particular Perfons lofe above one hundred Cows at a time, meerly by want of Fodder. THIS is fo much the more inexcufable, becaufe the Ground in the We(iern Ifles is na- turally richer in many refpeQs than in many other Parts of the Continent ; as appears from feveral Inftances, particularly in Skie^ and the oppofite Wefl:ern Ifles, in which there are ma- ny Valleys, &c. capable of good Improvemenr, and of which divers Experiments have been al- ready made ; and befides, moft of thofe Places have the Convenience of FreOi- water Lakes and Rivers, as well as of the Sea, near at hand, to furnifh the Inhabitants with Fifh of many forts, and Jiga Marina for manuring the Ground. I N many Places the Soil is proper for Wheat ; and that their Grafs is good, is evident from the great Produd of their Cattle : fo that if Y the 33^ ^ Description o/fk the Natives were taught and encouraged to take pains to improve their Corn and Hay, to plant, inclofe and manuretheir Ground, drain Lakes, fow Wheat and Peafe, and plant Or- chards, and Kitchin-Gardens, &c, they might have as great Plenty of all things for the Sufte- nance of Mankind, as any other People in Europe. I H A V E known a hundred Families, of four or five Perfons apiece at lea ft, maintain'd there upon little Farms, for which they paid not above five Shillings Steri. one Sheep, and fome Pecks of Corn per A»n. each ; which is enough to (hew, that by a better Improvement, that Country would maintain many more Inhabitants than live now in the Ifles. IF any Man be difpos'd to live a foHtary retir'd Life, and to withdraw from the Noife of the World, he may have a Place of Retreat there in a fmall Ifland, or in the Corner of a large one, where he may enjoy himfelf, and live at a very cheap rate. I F any Family, reduc'd to low Circumftances, had a mind to retire to any of thefe Ifles, there is no Part of the known World, where they may have the Produftsof Sea and Land cheaper, live more fecurely, or among a more tradable and mild People. And that the Country in general Weftern I/lands of Scotland. 559 general is healthful, appears from the good State of Health enjoy 'd by the Inhabitants. I SHALL not offer to aflert that there are Mines of Gold or Silver in the Weftern Ifles, from any refemblance they may bear to other Parts that afford Mines, but the Natives affirm that Gold Duft has been found at Grimmis on the Weftern Coaft of the Ifle of North-Fifi, and at Cofveaul in Harries \ in which, as well as in other Parts of the Ifles, the Teeth of the Sheep which feed there are dyed yellow. THERE is a good Lead Mine, having a Mixture of Silver in it, on the Weft end of the Ifle of 7/4, near Port Efcock ; and Buchanan and others fay, that the Ifle Ltjmore affords Lead ; and Slait and Strath^ on the South-Weft: of Skie^ are in Stone, Ground, Grafs, &c, exadly the fame with that Part of lU^ where there's a Lead Mine. And if fearch were made in the Ifles and Hills of the oppofice Main, it is not improbable that fome good Mines might be dif- cover'd in fome of them. I WAS told by a Gentleman of Lochaher, that an Enghjb-Msir] had found fome Gold- Duft in a Mountain near the River Lochy, but could never find out the Place again after his return from England., That there have been Gold Mines in Scotland^ is clear, from the Ma- Y 2 nufcripts J40 ^Description of the nufcripts mention'd by Dr. Nicholfon^ now Bifhop Li Carlip, in his late Scots Hift, Library. THE Situation of thefe Ifles for promoting Trade in general, appears advantageous enough ; but more particularly for a Trade with Den- mark, Sweden, Hamburgh Holland, Britain, and Ireland. France and S^ain feem remote, yet they don't exceed a Week's Sailing, with a fa- vourable Wind. THE General Opinion of the Advantage that might be reap'd from the Improvement of the Fifh Trade in thefe Ifles, prevailM among confidering People in former times to attempt it. THE firft that I know of, was by King Charles the Firil, in conjunQion with a Com- pany of Merchants ; but it mifcarried becaufe of the Civil Wars, which unhappily broke out at that time. THE next Attempt was by King Charles the Second, who alfo joinM with fome Mer- chants ; and this fucceeded well for a time. I am affured by fuch as faw the Fifh catch'd by that Company, that they were reputed the befi: in Europe of their kind, and accordingly, were fold for a greater Price ; but this Defign was ruin'd thus: The King having occafion for Mony, was advis'd to withdraw that which Wejlern IJlc^nds of Scotland. ^41 which was employ'd in the Fifhery ; at which the Merchants being difpleas'd, and difagreeing likewife among themfelves, they alfo withdrew their Mooy : and the Attempt has never been renew'd fince that time. , . , THE fettling a Fifhery in thofe Parts woiild prove of great advantage to the Government, and be an effedual Means to advance the Re- venue, by the Cuftoms on Export and Im- port, &c. I T would alfo be a Nurferjrhrof ftout and able Seamen in a very fhort time, to ferve the Government on all Occafions. The Inhabi- tants of the Ifles andbppofite Main-Land being very prolifick already, the Country would be- yond all peradventure become very populous in a little time, if a Fifhery were once fettled among them. The Inhabitants are not con- temptible for their number at prefent, nor are they to learn the ufe of the Oar, for all of them are generally very dextrous at it : fo that thofe Places need not to be planted with a new Colony, but only furnifh'd with pro- per Materials, and a few expert Hands, to join with the Natives to fet on foot and advance a Fifhery. THE People inhabiting the Weftern lOes of Scotland^ may be about forty thoufand, and many of 'em want Emy loy ment j this is a great Y ^ Encou- 34^ ^ Description o/f/;e Encouragement, both for fetting up other Ma- nufaftories, and the fifhing Trade among em : Befides a great number of People may be expec- ted from the oppofite Continent of the High- Lands, and North ; which from a late Com- putation, by one who had an Eftimate of their Number, from (everal Minifters in the Coun- try, are reckoned to exceed the Number of IJlan- den above ten to one : and 'tis too well known, that many of 'em alfo want Employment. The Objeftion, that they fpeak only /r//Z/, is nothing : many of 'em underftand Engltfh^ in all the con- . fiderablelfland^, which are lufficient to direct the reft in catching and curing Fifh ; and in a little time the Youth would learn Englijh. THE Commodioufnefs and Safety of the nu- merous Bays and Harbours in thofe Ifles, feem as if Nature had defign'd them for promoting Trade: they are likewife furnifh'd with Plenty of good Water, and Stones for building. The oppofite Main Land affords Wood of divers forts for that ufe. They have Abundance of Turif and Peat for Fewel ; and of this latter, there is fucli Plenty in many Parts, as might fur- nifh Salt-Pans wih Fire all the Year round. The Sea fo.css its Pdflfage in feveral fmall Chan- nels through the Land ; fo as it renders the De- fign moreeafy and pradicable. THE Coafl: of each ffle affords many thou- fand Load of Sea ware, which ifpreferv'd, might be Wcjlern I/lands of Scotland. 345 be fuccefsfuUy us'd for making Glafs, and like- wife IQ/p for Soap. THE generality of the Bays afford all forts of Shel]-fifh in great plenty ; as Oyfters, Clams, Mufcles, Lobfters, Cockles, &c. which might be pickled, and exported in great quantities. There are great and fmall Whales of divers kinds to be had round the Ifles, and on the Shore of the oppofite Continent ; and are fre- quently feen in narrow Bays, where they may be eafily caught. The great Number of Ri- vers, both in the Ifles and oppofite main Land, afford abundance of Salmon, which, if rightly manag'd, might turn to a good account. THE Ifles afford likewife great quantities of black Cattle, which might ferve the Traders both for Confumption and Export. STRATH in abounds with good Mar- ble, which may be had at an eafy rate, and near the Sea. THERE is good Wool in moft of the Ifles, and very cheap; fome are at the charge of carrying it on Horfe-back, about feventy or eighty Miles, to the Shires of Murray and Aberdeen, T H E R E are feveral of the Ifles, that afford a great deal of very fine Clay ; which, if improv'd, Y 4 might 344 ^Description of the might turn to a good account for making Ear- then Ware of all forts. THE moft centrical and convenient Places for keeping Magazines of Cask, Salt, &c, are thofe mention'd in the refpeftive Ifles ; as one at Loch-Maddj Ifles, in the lile of Nonh-Vift ; a feond in the Ifle Hermetra, on the C.oafl: of the Ifle Harries ; a third in Ifland Giafs^ on the Coaft of Harries ; and a fourth in StorKvay, in the Ifle of Lewis. BUT for fettling a Magazine or Colony for Trade in general, and Fifliing in particular, the Ifle of Skie is abfolutely the mofl: centrical, both with regard to the Ifles and oppofite main Land ; and the moft proper Places in this Ifle, are Ifland Jfa in LochjalUrt, and Lochage, both on the Weft- fide of. 6'^/>; Loch-Ponrie^ and Scorv- far on the Eaft-fide ; and Ifland Dierman on the South-fide : thefe Places abound with all forts of Fifh that are caught in thofe Seas ; and they are proper Places for a confiderable Number of Men to dwell in, and convenient for fettling Magazines in 'em. THERE are many Bays and Harbours that are convenient for building Towns in feveral of the other Ifles, if Trade were fettled among them ; and Cod and Ling, as well as Fifh of leifer fize, are to be had generally on the Coaft of the leffcr, as well as of the larger Ifles. I am Wcftern Iflands of Scotland. 545 am not ignorant that Foreigners, failing thro the Weftern Ifles, have been tempted, from the fight of fo many wild Hills, that feem to be cover'd all over with Heath, and fac'd with high Rocks, to imagine that the Inhabitants, as well as the Places of their Refidence, are barba- rous ; and to this Opinion, their Habit, as well as their Language, have contributed. The like is fuppos'd by many that live in the South of Scotland, who know no more of the Weftern Ifles than the Natives of luly: but the Lion is not fo fierce as he is painted, neither are the People defcrib'd here fo barbarous as the World imagines : It is not the Habit that makes the Monk, nor doth the Garb in fafhion qualify him that wears it to be virtuous. The Inhabi- tants have Humanity, and ule Strangers hof- pitably and charitably. I could bring feveral Inltances of Barbarity and Theft committed by Stranger Seamen in. the Ifles, but there is not one Inftance of any Injury offer'd by the IJlafs- ders to any Seamen or Strangers. I had a par- ticular Account of Seamen, who not many Years ago flole Cattle and Sheep in feveral of the Ifles ; and when they were found on board their Veflels, the Inhabitants were fatisfy'd to take their Value in Mony or Goods, without any further Refentment : tho many Seamen, whofe Lives were preferv'd by the Natives, have made 'em very ungrateful Returns. For the Humanity and hofpitable Temper of the Iflanders to Sailors, I fhall only give two In- ftances : 34^ ^ D E S C R I P T 1 O N o/ ^/;^ fiances : Captain "Jack/on of White-Haven^ a- bout fixteen Years ago, was oblig'd to leave his Ship, being leaky, in the Bay within I/land Glafs, alias Scalpa, in the Ifle of Harries, with two Men to take care of her, tho loaded with Goods : the Ship was not within three Miles of a Houfe, and feparated from the Dwelling-pla- ces by Mountains ; yet when the Captain re- turn'd, about ten or twelve Months after, he found his Men and the Veflel fafe. CAPTAIN Lotch loft the Dromedary of London, of fix hundred Tun Burden, with all her rich Cargo from the Indies ; of which he might have fav'd a great deal, had he embraced the Afliftance which the Natives ofter'd him to unlade her : but the Captain's Sliynels, and fear of being thought rude, hinder'd a Gentleman on the Place to employ about feventy Hands, which he had ready to unlade her ; and fo the Cargo was loft. The Captain and his Men were kindly entertain'd there by Sir Normand. Mack-Leod ; and tho, among other valuable Goods, they had fix Boxes of Gold Duft, there was not the leaft thing taken from them by the Inhabitants. There are fome Pedlars from the Shire of Murray, and other Parts, who of late have fix'd their Refidence in the Ifle of Skie, and travel thro the remoteft Ifles without any Moleftation ; tho fome of thofe Pedlars fpeak HD Irifb. Several Barks come yearly from Orkney to the Weftern Ifles, to fifli for Cod and Ling : and Weft em Iftands of Scotland. ^47 and many from Anflruther in the Shire of Fife, came formerly to Barray and other liles to fifh, before the Battle of KJlfyth ; where moft of them being cut ofT, that Trade was afterwards negle6led. THE Magazines and Fifl-iing-Boats, left by Foreigners in the liles above mention'd, were reckon'd fecure enough, when one of the Natives only was left in charge with them till the next Seafon ; and fo they might be ftill. So that if a Company of Strangers from any part fhould fettle to fifh or trade in thefe Ifles, there is no Place of greater Security in any part of Europe ; for the Proprietors are always ready to affift and fupport all Strangers within their refpeftive JurifdiQions. A few Dutch Families fettled in Stornvay, in the Ifle of Lewis, after King Charles the Second's Refloration, but fome cunning Mer- chants found means by the Secretaries to pre- vail with the King to fend them away, tho they brought the fflanders a great deal of Mo- ny for the Produds of their Sea and Land- Fowl, and taught them fomething of the Art of Fifh- ing. Had they ftay'd, the Ijlanders muft cer- tainly have made confiderable Progrefs in Trade by this time ; for the fmall Idea of Fifhing they had from the Dutch has had fo much effe£t, as to make the People of the little Village of 6V^r»- njay to excel all thofe of ihe neighbouring Ifles and Continent in the FiChing Trade ever fince that time. FOR 348 ^ Description of the FOR the better Government of thofe Ifles, in cafe of fetting up a Fifhing Trade there, it may perhaps be found necelTary to ere61: the Ifles of Skie^ LerviSy Harries, South and North-Fifty &c. into a Sherivalty, and to build a Royal Bo- rough in Skie as the Center, becaufe of the Peo- ples great dirtance in remote Ifles, from the head Borough of the Shire of Inverness. This would feem much more necelTary here than thofe of 'Boot and Arran^ that \\q much nearer to Dunbar ton, tho they be neceflary enough in themfelves. I T may likewife deferve the Confideration of the Government, whether they fhould not make the Ifle of Skie a free Port, becaufe of the great Encouragement fuch Immunities give to Trade ; which always ilTues in the Welfare of the Publick, and adds Strength and Reputa- tion to the Government. Since thefe Ifles are capable of the Improvements above-mention'd, it is a great lofs to the Nation they fhduld be thus negleQ:ed. This is the general Opinion of Foreigners, as well as of our own Country- men, who know them ; but I leave the fur- ther Enquiry to fuch as fliall be difpos'd to at- tempt a Trade there, with the Concurrence of the Government. Scotland has Men and Mo- ny enough to fet up a Fifliery 5 fo that there feems to be nothing wanting towards it, but the Weflern Ijlands of Scotland. 349 the Encouragement of thofe in Power, to ex- cite the Inclination and Induftry of the People, IF the Dutch in their Publick Edids call their Fifhery a Golden Mine, and at the fame time affirm that it yields them more Profit than the Indies do to S^ain ; we have very great rea- fon to begin to work upon thofe rich Mines^ not only in the Ifles, but on all our Coaft in general. We have Multitudes of Hands to be employ'd at a very eafy rate ; we have a health- ful Climate, and our Fifh, efpecially the Her- ring, come to our Coafl in Afril or Maj^ and into the Bays in prodigious Shoals in 'July or Au- guft. I have feen Complaints from Loch-Effort in Skie, that all the Ships there were loaded, and that the Barrel of Herring might be had there for four Pence, but there were no Buyers. I HAVE known the Herring-Fifhing to continue in fome Bays from September till the end of January ; and wherever they are, all o- ther Fifh follow 'em, and Whales and Seals in particular : for the larger Fifh of all kinds feed upon Herring. 350 y^ Description of the A hrief 'De/cription of the Ifles of Orkney and Schetlandj ^c. TH E iHes of Orkney He to the North of Scotland, having the main Cdidoman O- cean, which contains the Hebrides on the Weft, and the German Ocean on the Eaft: ; and the Sea towards the North feparates 'em from the Ifles of SchetUnd. Pi5iland Firth on the South, which is twelve Miles broad, reaches to Dun- gisbte-Heady the moft Northern Point of the main Land of Scotland, i AUTHORS differ as to the Origin of the Name ; the Englijh call it Orknej, from Ertck, one of the fir ft Pi^tjh Princes that poftefs'd 'em : and it is obferv'd, that Pi^ or Pight in the Teutonick Language fignifies a Fighter. The Irifh call them Jrkive, from the firft Planter; and Latin Authors call them Orcades. They lie in the Northern temperate Zone, and 13th Climate ; the Longitude is between 22 Degrees, and 1 1 Minutes, and Latitude 59 Degrees, 2 Minutes : the Compafs varies here 8 Degrees ; the longeft Day is about 18 Hours. The Air is temperately cold, and the Night fo clear, that in the middle of June one may fee to read all Night long ; and the Days in Winter are by confequence very fhort. Their Winters here are commonly more fubjecl to Rain than Snow, for Weftern IJlands of Scotland. 3 5 i for the Sea-Air diflblves the latter. The Winds are often very boiftrous in this Country. THE Sea ebbs and flows here as in other Parts, except in a few Sounds, and about fome Promontories ; which alter the Courfe of the Tides, and make 'em very impetuous. THE Ifles of Orkfsey are reckon'd twenty fix in Number ; the lelfer Ifles, call'd Holms, are not inhabited, but fit for Pafturage: moft of their Names end in a or ey, that in the Teutonick Language fignifies Water, with which they are all furrounded. THE main Land, call'd by the Antients FomonAy is about twenty four Miles long, and in the middle of it, on the South-fide, lies the only Town in Orkney, call'd Kjrktvall, which is about three quarters of a Mile in length ; the Danes call'd it Cracoviaca. There has been two fine Edifices in it, one of 'em call'd the King's Palace, which is fuppos'd to have been built by one of the Bifhops of Orkney, becaufe in the Wall there's a Bifliop's Miter and Arms engra- ven, and the Bifliops antiently had their Refi- dence in it. THE Palace now call'd the Bifliop's, was built by Patrick Stervart, Earl of Orkney^ Anno i6q6, THERE 352 ^Description of the T H E R E is a ftately Church in this Town, having a Steeple ereded on four large Pillars in the middle of it ; there are fourteen Pillars on each fide the Church : it is cali'd by the Name of St. Magnm'^s Church, being founded, as the Inhabitants fay, by Magnus King of Nor- ivay, whom they believe to be interred there. TJhe Seat of Juftice for thefe Ifles is kept here ; the Steward, Sheriff, and Comniidary, do each of them keep their refpedlive Courts in this Place. It hath a Publick School for teaching of Grammar Learning, endow'd wicha competent Salary. THIS Town was ereQed into a Royal Bo- rough when the Da^es pofTefs'd it, and their Charter was afterwards confirm'd to them by King James the Third, Jmo i486. They have trom that Charter a Power to hold Borough- Courts, to imprifon, to arreft, to make By- Laws, to chufe their own Magiftrates yearly, to have two weekly Markets ; and they have alfo Power of Life and Death, and of fending CommiiTioners to Parliament, and all other Pri- vileges granted to Royal Boroughs, This Char- ter was dated at Edinburgh the laft Day of March, i486, and it was fince ratify'd by King James the Fiitb, and King Charles the Second. The Town is govern'd by a Provoft, four Bai- liffs, and a Common-Council. ON Weftern Jflands of Scotland. 355 O N the Weft end of the Main is the King's Palace formerly mentionM, built by Robert Stewart Earl of Orkrfey^ about the Year 1574. Several Rooms in it have been curioufly painted with Scripture-Stories, as the Flood of Noah^ Chrift's riding to Jerujalem, Sec. and each Figure has the Scripture by it, that it re- fers to. Above the Arms within there is this lofty Infcription, Sic fuit, eli, & erit. This Ifland is fruitful in Corn and Grafs, and has feveral good Harbours ; one of them at KJrk- Wall, a fecond at the Bay of Kjrflon Village, near the Weft End of the lOe, well fecur'd againft Wind and Weather ; the third is at Deer-Sound^ and reckon'd a very good Har- bour ; the fourth is at Grahamfhali^ towards the Eaft fide of the Ifle, but in failing to it from the Eaft fide, Seamen would do well to fail betwixt Lamhholm and the Main Land, and not between Lambholm and Burraj, which is fhallow. ON the Eaft of the Main Land lies the fmall Ifle Copinfha, fruitful in Corn and Grafs ; it is diftinguilh'd by Sea-faring Men for its Confpicuoufnefs at a great diflance. To the North End of it lies the Holm^ called the Horfe oi^ Copw/ba. Over againft Kjrfion Bdji lie the Ifles of /% and 0^aes, which make but one Ifle, about twelve Miles in Jength, and moun- Z tainaus. ^54 ^ Description o/ tk tainous. In this Ifland Is the Hill of /%, which is reckon'd the highefl: in Orkney, THE Ifle of South -Ronalfh aw lies to the Eafl: of Waes^ it is five Miles in length, and fruitful in Corn ; Burr ay in the South end is the Ferry to Duncansbay in Cathmfs, A little fur- ther to the South IksSwinm Ifle, remarkable only for a part of PightUnd- Firth lying to the Weft of it, called the Wells of Swmna. : They are two Whirl-pools in the Sea, which run about with fuch Violence, that any VefTel or Boar coming within their reach, go always round until they fink. Thefe Wells are dan- gerous only when there is a dead Calm ; for if a Boat be under fail with any Wind, it is eafy to go over them. If any Boat be forcM into thefe Wells by the Violence of the Tide, the Boat-Men caft a Barrel or an Oar into the Wells ; and while it is fwallowing it up, the Sea con- tinues calm, and gives the Boat an opportunity topafs over. TO the North of the Main lies the Ifle of Shapi^Jba, five Miles in length, and has an Har- bour at Eirvkk on the South. Further to the North lie the Ifles of Stronfa, five Miles in length, and Edn which is four Miles ; Ronft lies to the North-Weft, and is fix Miles long. The ifle Sanda. lies North, twelve Miles in length, and is reckoned the moft fruitful and beautiful of all the Orcades, THE Wcflern Iflands of Scotland. 355 THE Iflesof Orkney in general are fruitful in Corn and Cattle, and abound with ftore of Rabbits. THE Sheep are very fruitful here, many of them have two, fome three, and others four Lambs at a time ; they often die with a Difeafe called the Sheep-dead, which is occafion'd by lit- tle Animals about half an inch long, that are en- gender'd in their Liver. THE Horfes are of a very fmall fize, but hardy, and expos'd to the Rigour of the Sea- fon, during the Winter, and Spring : the Grafs being then fcarce, they are fed with Sea- ware. THE Fields everywhere abound with Va- fiety of Plants and Roots, and the latter are ge- nerally very large ; the common People drefs their Leather with the Roots of Tormentil, in- ftead of Bark. THE main Land is furnifh'd with Abun- dance of good jMarle, which is u^'d fuccefsful- ly by the Husband-Man for manuring the Ground. THE Inhabitants fay there are Mines of Silver, Tin and Lead in the Main Land, South- RonalfhaWj Stronfa^ Sanda, and Hoy. Some Veins of Marble are to be feen at Buck^uoj, Z 2 and 35^ ^Description of the and Sivima. There are no Trees in thefe Ifles, except in Gardens, and thofe bear no Fruit. Their common Fuel is Peat and Turff, of which there is fuch plenty, as to furnidi a Salt-pan with Fuel. A South Eaft and North- Well: Mooncaufe high Water here. THE irdand Fifhermen have been fre- quently feen on the Coaft of this Ifle, particu- larly in the Year 1682. The People on the Coaft faw one of them in his little Boat, and endeavour'd to take him, but could not come at him, he retir'd fo fpeedily. They fay the Fifh retire from the Coaft, when they fee thefe Men come to it. ONE of the Boats, fent from Orkney to Edmburgh, is to be feen in the Phyficians Hall, with the Oar he makes ufe of, and the Dart with which he kills his Fifh. THERE is no venomous Creature in this Country. The inhabitants fay there is a Snail there, which has a bright Stone growing in it. There is abundance ot Shell- Fifh here, as Oy- fters, Mufcles, Crabs, Cockles, &c. of this latter they make much fine Lime. The Rocks on the fhore afford Plenty of Sea-ware, as JlgA' Marina, &c. THE Sea abounds with Variety of Fifli, but efpecially Herring, which are much neglec- ted Wejlern IJlands of Scotland, ^57 ted fince the Battle of Kjlfith, at which time, the Fifhermen from Fife were almoft all kill'd there. THERE are many fmall Whales round the Codft of this IQe ; and the Am^hibU here are Otters and Seals. THE chief Produdl of Or^^^jf that is yearly exported from thence, is Corn, Fifh, Hides, Tallow, Butter, Skins of Seals, Otter-Skins, Lamb-Skins, Rabbet-Skins, StuflPs, white Salt, Wool, Pens, Down, Feathers, Hams, &c, SOME Sperma Ceti^ and Jmhergreefe, as al- fo the Os Cdipier are found on the fliore of feve- ral of thofe Ifles. THIS Country aflPords Plenty of Sea and Land-Fowl, as Geefe, Ducks, Solan G^tk, Swans, Lyres, and Eagles, which arefoftrong as to carry away Children. There is alfo the Cleck-Goofe ; the Shells in which this Fowl is faid to be produc'd, are found in feveral Ifles flicking to Trees by the Bill ; of this kind I have feen many : the Fowl was covered by a Shell, and the Head ftuck to the Tree by the Bill, but I never faw any of them with Life in them upon the Tree ; but the Natives told me, that they had obferv'd 'em to move with the Heat of the Sua. Z J THE 358 ^ Description of the THE Pi^s are believ'd to have been the firft Inhabitants of thefe Ifles, and there are Houfes of a round Form in feveral parts of the Country, called by the name of Pi^s Houfes ; and for the fame reafon, the Firth is call'd PightUnd or PentUnd Firth. Our Hiftorians call thefe Ifles the antient Kingdom of the Pi^s. Bu- chanan gives an account of one Pelus King of Orkmjy who being defeated by King Exven the Second of ScotUndy became defperate, and kil- led himfelf. The Effigies of this Belus is en- graven on a Stone in the Church of Birfa. on the Main Land. Boethius makes mention of another of their Kings, call'd B^nnus, and by others Gethus, who being vanquifh'd by Clau- dius C^efar, wa^ by him afterwards, together with his Wife and Family, carry'd captive to Ro?9^e, and there led in Triumph, J^^o Chrif- ti 4^ THE Pi5is^oMs'di Orkney until the Reign of Kjnneth the Second of Scotland^ who fubdu'd ihe Country, and annex'd it to his Crown. From that time Orkney was peaceably pofTefs'd by the Scots ^ until about the Year 1099, that Donald Bane intending to fecure the Kingdom to himfelf, promisM both thofe and the Wef- tern Ifles to Magnus King of Norway^ upon condition, that he fhould fupport him with a competent Force : which he perform'd ; and by this means became Mafter of thefe Ifles, until the Wcftcrn Iflcinds of Scotland. 3 5 9 the Reign of Jlex^nder the Third, who by !iis Valour expell'd the Danes. The Kings of Den- mark did afterwards refign their Title for a Sum of Mony, and this Refignation was ratifyM un- der the Great Sea I of Df^w?^?'^^ at the Marriage of King James the Sixth of Scotland^ with Anne Princefs of Denmark. 0 R K,N ET hzs been from time to time a Title of Honour to feveral Perfons of great Qua- lity : Henry and William Sine lairs were calTd Princes of Orkneys and Rothuel Hephurtf was made Duke of Orkney : Lord George Hamilton (Brother to the prefent Duke 0^ Hamilton) was by the late King WILL J A M created Earl of Orkney. The Earl of Morton, had a Mortgage of Orkney and Z.etUnd from King Charles the Firfl:, which was fince reduc'd by a Decree of the Lords of SefTion, obtained at the Inftance of the King's Advocate againft the Earl ; and this Decree was afterward ratify'd by Aft of Par- liament, and the Earldom of Orkney^ and Lord- ftip of Z^etland^ have fince that time been ere£ted into a Stewartry. The Reafon on which the Decree was founded, is faid to have been, that the EarPs Deputy feiz'd upon fome Chefts of Gold found in the rich Ar^fierdam Ship, called the Carlmelan, that was loft in Kft- land, 1664. THERE are feveral Gentlemen of Eftates in Orkney, but the Queen is the principal Pro- Z 4 prictor ; 3^0 ^Description of the prietor ; and one half of the whole belongs to the Crown, be fides the late AccefTion of the Biihop's Rents, which is about 9000 Merks Scots per Afjn. There is a yearly Roup of Orkney Rents, and he that offers higheft is preferr'd to be the King's Steward for the tinae ; and as fuch, he is principal Judg of the Coun- try. But this precarious Leafe is a publick Lofs to the Inhabitants, efpecially the poorer fort, who' complain that they would be al- lowed to pay X coy for their Corn and Meal in time of Scarcity ; but ibst tht Stewards car- ried it off to other Parts, anc- negleded the Intereft of the Country. The Interert of the Crown fuffers likewife by this means, for much of the Crown-Lands lie wafte : whereas if there were a conftant Steward, it might be much better manag'd, both for the Crown and the Inhabitants. there's a Tenure of Land in Orkney^ differing from any other in the Kingdom, and this- they call Vdal Right^ from VUus King of Norway^ who after taking poffeflion of thofe Iflands, gave a Right to the Inhabitants, on condition of paying the third to himfelf; and this Right the Inhabitants had fucceffively, without any Charter. All the Lands of Ork- ney arQVdal Lands, King's Lands, or Fewed Lands, THEY Wejlern Ijlands of Scotland. 361 THEY diflPer In their Meafures from other Parts of Scotland, for they do not ufe the Peck or Firlet, but weigh their Corns in Pifmores, or Pundlers ; the leaft Quantity they call a Merk, which is eighteen Ounces, and twenty four nfiake a Leifpound, or Set ten, which is the fame with the Danes, that a Stone weight is with us. The Antknt State of the Church of Orkney. TH E Churches of Orkney and Zetland Ifles were formerly under the Government of a Bifhop ; the Cathedral Church was St. Mag" nus in I(Jrkrvall. There are thirty one Chur- ches, and about one hundred Chappels in the Country, and the whole make up about eigh- teen Parifhes. THIS Diocefs had feveral great Dignities and Privileges for a long time, but by the Suc- ceffion and Change of many Mafters they were leffened. Dr. Robert Kjid their Bifhop, made an Ereclion of feven Dignities, viz,, i. A Provoft", to whom, under the Bifhop, the Government of the Canons, &c. did belong; he had allotted to him the Prebendary of Holj Trinitj^ and the Vica^ 362 J De sen I PTIQ-N of the Vicarldge of South- Ron al{h aw. 2. An Arch- Deacon. 5. A Precentor, who had the Pre- bendary of O^hify and Vicaridge of Ste/iui^- 4. A Chancellor, who was to be learned in both Laws ; to him was given the Prebendary of St. Mayj in Sa^da, and the Vicaridge of Sa/fda, 5. A Treafurer, who was to keep the Treafure of the Church, and facred Veflments. &c. he was Re£ior o^ ^t. Nicholas in Sfrorfa. 6. A Sub-Dean, who was Parfon of Hoj^ &c. 7. A Sub-Chanter, who was bound to play on the Organs each Lord's Day, and Feftivals; he was Prebendary of St. Colme. He erected feven other Canonries and Prebends ; to which Dignities he aflign'd, beHdes their Churches, the Rents of the Parfonages of St. Colme in Waes, and Holy-Crofs in Wejlra, as alfo the Vicaridges of the Parifh-Churches of Sand^ Wick, and Stromnefs. He ere£led, befides thefe, thirteen Chaplains; every one of which was to have 24 Meils of Corn, and ten Merks of Mony for their yearly Salary ; befides their daily Diftributions, which were to be rais'd from tlie Rents of the Vicaridge of the Ca- thedral Church, and from the Foundation of Thomas Bifhop of Orkney ^ and the 1 2 Pounds ratify 'd by King 'James the Third, and James the Fourth of Scotland. To thefe he added a Sacrifly and fix Boys to bear Tapers. The Charter of this Eredion is dated at fOrkrvall, OM. 28. At2)io 1544. THIS Weft em Jflamls of Scotland. 3(^5 THIS was the State of the Church under Popery. Some time after the Reformation, Bifhop Law being made Bifhop of Orkney^ and the Earldom united to the Crown (by the For- feitOre ar^d Death of Patrick Stewart; Earl of Orkney) he, with the confent of his Chapter, made a Contract with King 'James the Sixth, in which they refign all their Ecclefiaftical Lands to the Crown ; and the King gives back to the Bifhop feveral Lands in Orkney^ as Hom^ Or- fhir^ 8^c. and his Majefty gave alfo the Comif- farm of Orkney to the Bifhop and his Succef- fors ; and then a competent number of Perfons for a Chapter were agreed on. This Contract was made Anno 16 14. th ^6^ J Description of tit The Anttent Monuments and Curiofttks In thefe IJlands are as follow, IN the Ifle of Hoy, there's the Dwarfie-Stone between two Hills, it is about thirty four Foot long, and above i6 Foot broad ; it is made hollow by Human Induftry : it has a fmall fquare Entry looking to the Eaft, about two Foot high, and has a Stone proportionable at two Foot diftance before the Entry. At one of the Ends within this Stone there is cut out a Bed and Pillow, capable of two Perfons to lie in : at the other oppofite End there is a void fpace cut out refembling a Bed ; and above both thefe there is a large Hole, which is fuppos'd Was a Vent for Smoke. The common Tradi- tion is, that a Giant and his Wife made this their their Place of Retreat. ABOUT a Mile to the Weft of the Main Land at Skeal-houfe, there is in the top of high Rocks many Stones difpos'd hke a Street, about a quarter of a Mile in length, and be- tween twenty and thirty Foot broad. They differ in Figure and Magnitude, are of a red Colour ; fome refemble a Heart, fome a Crown, Leg, Shoe, Laft, ^Weaver's Shuttle, &c, ON Wejlcrn Iflands of Scotland. 3e who hada grtac defire to obtain the Lands, &c, btionging to his Nephew ; who being kept fhori, ftole a Setten of Barley, which is about twenty tight Pound Weight, from his Uncle; for which he purfued the Youth, who was then eighteen Years of Age, before the Sheriff. The Theft being provM, tlie Young Man receivM Sentence of Death ; but going up the Ladder to be han^'d^ he pray'd earneftly that God would infliQ fome vifible Judgment on his Uncle, who out of Covetoufnefs had procured his Death. The Uncle happened after this to be walking in the Church Yard of Kjrkwd^ and as he flood upon the Young Man's Grave, the Bifhop's Dog run at him all of a fudden, and tore out his Throa- ; and fo iie became a Monument of God's Wra.'n -^"^ginft fuch covetous Wretches. This Account Wc^ ^:ven to Mr. Wallace Mini- fter there, by feveral t'lat were WitnefFes of the Fa6l. SCHET' Wejleni Iflands of Scotland. ; 7 i SCHETLJNV. SCHETLAND lies North-Eaft from Ork- ney^ between the 60 and 6 ift Degree of Latitude ; the diftance between the Head of Sanda, which is the moft Northerly part of Orkney^ and Swinburg-head the moft Southerly Point of SchetUnd^ is commonly reckoned to be twenty or twenty one Leagues : the Tides run- ning betwixt are always impetuous, and fwel- ling as well in a Calm as when a frefli Gale blows ; and the greateft Danger is near the fair Ifle, which lies nearer to SchetUnd than Orkney by four Leagues. THE largeft Ifle o^SchetUnd, by the Natives called the Main- Land, is fixty Miles in length from South- Weft to theNorth-Eaft, and from fixtecn to one Mile in breadth. Some call thefe Ifles HethUnd, others HoghUnd^ which in the Norfe Tongue (ignifies Highland ; Schetland in the fame Language fignifies SeaUnd. THIS Ifle is for the moft part mofTy, and more cultivated on the Shore than in any other Part ; it is mountainous, and covered with Heath, which renders it fitter for Pafturage than Tillage. The Inhabitants depend upon Aa 2 the 37^ ^Description of the the Orkney ifles for their Corn. The Ground is generally fo boggy, that it makes riding im- pradicable, and travelling on Foot not very pleafant ; there being feveral parts into which People fink, to the endangering their Lives, of which there have been feveral late Inftances. About the Summer Soljlice^ they have fo much Light all Night, that they can fee to read by it. The Sun fets between ten and eleven, and rifes between one and two in the Morning, but then the Day is fo much the fhorter, and the Night longer in the Winter. This, together with the Violence of the Tides and tempeftuous Seas, deprives the Inhabitants of all Foreign Corre- fpor.dc.xe from Oclober till Jfril^ and often till May ; during which fpace, they are altogether Strangers to the reft of Mankind, of whom they hear not the leaft News. A remarkable In- flanceofthis happened after the late Revolution : they had no account of the Prince of OrAnge's ]ate Landing in England^ Coronation, &c. un- til a Fifherman happen'd to land in thefe Ifles in M^; folio v/ing: and he was not believed, but indided for High-Treafon, for fpreading fuch News. THE Air of this Ifle is cold and piercing, iiotwichdanding vi^hich, many of the Inhabitants arrive at a great Age ; of which there are feve- ral remarkable Inllances. Buchanan \n his Hift". lib, 1. gives an Account of otiQ Laureffce, who lived Wcfieni Iflands of Scotland, 373 lived in his time, fome of whofe Offspring do ftill live in the Pariih of Waes ; this Man, alter he arrived at one hundred Years of /^ge, niar- ried a Wife, went out a fifhing when he was One Hundred and Forty Years old, and upon his return, died rather of Old Age, than of any Diftemper. THE Inhabitants give an isocount of one Tairvi/Ie, who arrived at the Age of One Hun- dred and Eighty, and never drank any Malt Drink, diftilled Waters, nor Wine. They fay that his Son liv'd longer than him, and that his Grandchildren liv'd to a Good Age, and feldom or never drank^any ftronger Liquors than Milk, Water or Bland. THE Difeafe that afflids the Inhabitants here mofl-, is the Scurvy, which they fuppofe is occafion'd by their eating too much Salt- Fifh. There is a Diftemper here caOM Baftard Scurvy, which difcovers it felf by the falling of the Hair from the Peoples Eyebrows, and the fall- ing of their Nofes, &c. and as foon as the Symptoms appear, the Perfons are remov'd to the Fields, where little Houfes are buik for them on purpoie, to prevent Infe£lio.n. The princi- pal Caufe of this Diftemper is believed to bs want of Bread, and feeding on Fifh alone, par- ticularly the Liver : many poor Families are fometimes without Bread, for three, four, Aa 5 or ^74 ^ DESCRivTioisi of the or five Months together. They fay hkewife that their drinking of Bland, which is their u- niverfal Liquor, and preferv'd for the Winter as part of their Provifions, is another Caufe of this Difl:emper. This Drink is made of Buttermilk mix^d with Water ; there be many of 'em who never tafle Ale or Beer, for their Scarcity of Bread is luch, that they can fpare no Corn for Drink : fo that they have no other than Bland, but what they get from foreign Veflels that le- Ibrt thither every Summer to fifh. THE Ifles in general afford a great Quantity of Scurvy-grafs, which us'd difcreetly, is found to be a good Remedy agaiofl: thfs Difeafe. The jaundice is commonly cur'd by drinking the Powder of Shell-fnails among their Drink, in the fpace of three or four days. They firft dry, then pulverize the Snails ; and it is obfervable, that tho this Duft fbould be kept all the Year round^ and grow into Vermine, it may be dry'd again, and pulveriz'd for that ufe. THE Ifles afford abundance of Sea-fowl, which ferve the inhabitants for part of their Food during Summer and Harveft, and the Down and Feathers bring 'em great Gain; THE feveral Tribes of Fowl here build and hatch apart, and every Tribe keeps clofe toge. ther, as if it were by confent. Some of the kffer Wejleni Iflands of Scotland. 37^ JefTer Ifles are fo crcuded witli Variety of Sea- fowl, that they darken ihe ' •.' when they fly in great NumV.^rs. After thcrir ccning, which 's commonly In Fehruarj^ they fit vf"v clofe to- geiher tor fonie tic--..-, till they recover the Fa- tigue of thiiir long Flight from their remote Quarters; and af(er they have i^tchM ijjeir Young, and find they are. able to fly, they go away together to fome other unknown Place. THE People inhahiiing the lefler Ifles have abundance of Eggs and Fowl, which contribute to maintain their Families during the Summer. THE Common People are generally very dextrous in climbing the Rocks, in queft of thole Eggs and Fowl ; but this Exercife is attended with very great Danger, and fometimes proves fatal to thole that venture too far. THE moft remarkable Experin^ent of this fort, is at the Ifle call'd the Nofe of Braffah^ and is as follows : The Nofs being about Ijk- teen Fathom diftant from the fide of the oppo- fite Main ; ihe higher.and lower Rocl^s J aue two Stakes faften'd in each of thtm, and ro thefe there are Ropes tied : upon the Ropes there is an Engine hung, which they call a Cradle; and m this a Man makes his way over from the grearer to the lelTer Rocks, where he makes a conliderable Purchafe of Eggs and Aa4 "Fowl; 17^ -^ Description of the Fowl; but his Return being by an Afcent, makes it the more dangerous, tho thofe on the great Rock have a Rope tied to the Cradle, by which they draw it and the Man fafe over for the moft part. THERE are fome Rocks here, computed to be about three hundred Fathom high ; and the way of climbing them, is to tit a Rope a- bout a Man's Middle, and let him down with a Basket) in which he brings up his Eggs and Fowl. The Ifle of FouU is the moft dangerous and fatal to the Climbers, for many of them perifh in the Attempt. THE Crows are very numerous in Schef- landy and differ in their Colour from thole on the main Land ; for the Head, Wings and Tail of thofe in SchetUnd are only black, and their Back, Breaft and Tail of a grey Colour. When black Crows are feen tht»e at any time, the Inhabitants fay it is a Prefage of approaching Famine. THERE are fine Hawks in thefe Ifles, and particularly thofe of Fair IJle are reputed among the beft that are to be had anv where ; they are obferv'd to go far for their F^ey, and particu- larly for Moor- Fowl as far as the Hies of Orkney^ which are about fixtten Leagues from them. THERE Weflern IJlands of Scotland. ^7/ THERE are like wife many Eagles in and about tUcie Ifles, which are very deftrudive to the Sheep and Lambs. THIS Country produces little Horfes, com- monly callV. Shelties^ and they are very fpright- Jy, tho the ieaft of their kind to be feen any where ; they are lower in Stature than thofe of Orkney^ a«id it is common for a Man of ordina-. ry Strength to lift a Sheltie from the ground: yet this little Cieature is able to carry double. The black are efieem'd to be the moft hardy, but the pyed ones feldom prove fo good : they Jive many t'mes till thirty Years of Age, and are fit foi Service all the while. Thefe Horfes are ne- ver brought into a Houfe, but expos'd to the Rigour of the Seafon all the Year round ; and when they have no Grafs, feed upon Sea- ware, which is only to be had at the Tide of Ebb. THE Ifles of SchetUnd produce many Sheep, which have two and three Lambs at a time ; they would be much more numerous, did not the Eagles deflroy them; they are like wife re- duce to feed on Sea-ware during the Froft and Snow. tht 3/8 A DeSCRI PTION o/ffe rhe Leffer Ijli's of SCHETLAND are 06 follow, THE Ifle TiToWr^, which lies oppofite to Scalloway Town, on the Weft ; three Miles long, and two broad. F U R T H E R to the North-Eaft lies the Ifle of Whalfey, about three Miles in length, and as many in breadth ; the Rats are very nume- rous here, and do abundance of mifchief, by deftroying the Corn. A T fome further diftance lie the fmall Ifles call'd Skerries ; there is a Church in one of them. Thefe Ifles and Rocks prove often fa- tal to Seamen, but advantageous to the Inha- bitants, by the Wrecks and Goods that the Wind and Tides drive afhore ; which often fup- plies them with Fevvel, of whichfthey are aicoge- ther dertitute. It was here that the CarmeUn of Amfterdam was caft away, as bound for the Eaft-lndies, Ann. 1664, Among the rich Cargo fhe had feveral Chells of coin'd Gold, the whole was valu'd at ^000000 Guilders; of ail the Crew four only were faved. The Inhabitants of the fmal] Ifles, among other Advantages they had by this Wreck, had the pleafurc of drinking Weflem 1 (lands of Scotland. ]79 drinking liberally of the ftrong Drink which was driven alliore in large Casks, for the fpace of three Weeks. BETWEEN Braffa-Soand ^n6 the oppo- fite Main. lies the V/iicorny a dangerous Rock, vifible only at low Water ; it is fo call'd ever fince a VefTel of that Name perifh'd upon it, commanded by William KjrkAldy of Grange^ who was in eager Purfuit of the Earl of Bothwe/iy and very near him when his Ship ftruck. ON theEaft lies the JHq aWd Fifiolw : to the North-Eaft lies Little Rae, and on the Weft Mickje Rue ; the latter is eight Miles in length, and two in breadth, and has a good Harbour. NEAR to Efiifjg lie the Ifles of Vemantry^ which have feverai Harbours ; Orney^ little Pa^a^ HeUfha^ Sec. T O the North- Weft of the Nefs lies Sr. Ninian's Ifle ; it has a Chappei and an Altar in ir, upon which fome of the Inhabitants retain the antient fuperftitious Cuftom of burning Candle, PJPJ-STOVR is two Miles in length ; it excels any Ifle of its Extent for all the Conve- niences of human Life : it has four good Har- bours 380 A Description of the hours, one of which looks to the South, another to the Weft, and two to the North. THE Lyra-Skerriesy To call'd from the Fowl of that Name that abound in them, lie near this lOe. ABOUT fix Leagues Weft of the Main, lies the Ifle FouU, about three Miles in length ; it has a Rock remarkable for its height, which is feen from Orkney when the Weather is fair : it hath an Harbour on one fide. THE Ifle of BraffA lies to the Eaft of Tmgwal; it is five Miles in length, and two in breadth : fome parts of the Coaft are a- rable Ground ; and there are two Churches in it. FURTHER to the Eaft lies the fmall Ifle call'd the Nofs of Brap, THE Ifle 0^ Barray is three Miles long, has good Pafturage, and abundance of Fifli on its Coaft ; it has a large Church and Steeple in it. The Inhabitants fay that Mice do not live in this Ifle, when brought to it ; and that the Earth of it being brought to any other part where the Mice are, they will quickly aban- don it. HJFE- Weflern IJlands of Scotland. 381 HJFEROr-lSLE, which is a Mile and a half in length, lies to the South-Eaft of Burraj, THE Ifle of Yell is fixteen Miles long, and from eight to one in breadth ; it lies North-Eaft from the Main : there are three Churches, and feverai fmall Chappels in it. THE Ifle of Hakaftfie is two Miles long, Samphrey Ifle one Mile long, Biggai Ifle is a Mile and a half in length ; all three lie round W, and are reputed among the beft of the leiTer Ifles. THE Ifle of Fetlor lies to the North-Eaft of TeUy and is five Miles in length, and four in breadth ; it hath a Church, and fome of the PiBs Houfes in ir. THE Ifle Vfift is eight Miles long, and is the pleafanteft of the SchetUnd Ifles ; it has three Churches, and as many Harbours : it is rec- kon'd the moft Northern of all the Britijh Do- minions. The Inhabitants of the Ifle VatU fay, that no Cat will live in it, and if any Cat be brought to it, they will rather venture to Sea, than ftay in the Ifle. They fay, that a Cat was feen upon the Ifle about fifty Years ago ; but hoW|it came there, was unknown. They obferv'd }8i ^Description of the obfervM about the fame time, how the Propri- etor was in great Torment, and as they fuppofe by Witchcraft, of which they fay he then died. There is no account that any Cat has been feen in the Ifle ever fince that Genileman's Death, except when they were cat ry'd to it, for mak- ing the above-mention'd Experiment. THE Inhabitants fay, that if aCompafs be plac'd at the Houfe of Vdjla^ on the Weft-fide of the Ifle Fetlor^ the Needle will be in perpe- tual Diforder, without fixing to any one Fole ; and that being tried afterwards in the top of that Houfe, it had the fame KfFed. They add further, that when a VtfTel fails near that Houfe, the Needle of the Compafs is diforderM in the fame manner. THERE is a yellow fort of Metal lately difcover'd in the Ifle of VzU^ but the Inhabi- tants had not found a way to melt it ; fo that it is not yet turn'd to any account. The Wejleni IJlands of Scotland. 38} The Antient Court of Jujiice IN thefe Iflands was held in Holm, in the Parifli of Twgrvall, in the middle of the main Land. This Holm is an Ifland in the middle of a frefh-water Lake ; it is to this day call'd the Larv-Ti/ig, and the Parifh, in all probability, hath its Name from it. The En- trance to this Holm is by fome Stones laid in the Water ; and in the Holm there are four great Stones, upon which fat the Judg, Clerk, and other Officers of the Court. The Inhabitants, that had Law-Suits, attended at Tome diftance from the Holm, on the other fide the Lake -^ and when any of them was calPd by the OfRcer, he entred by the ftepping Stones ; and being difmifs'd, he return'd the fame way. This was the Pradice of the Da^es. The Inhabitants have a Tradition among them, that after one had re- ceiv'd Sentence of Death upon the Ho/m, he ob- tained a Remiffion, provided he made his Efcape through the Croud of People on the Lake fide, and touch'd Tingwall Steeple before any could lay hold on him. This Steeple in thofe days was an Afjlum for MalefaQors and Debtors to flee into. The Inhabi' mis of this Ifle are all Proteftants; they generally fpeak the Englijb Tongue, and many among them retain the antienc 3^4 ^ Description o/t/?^ antient Dani[h Language, efpecially in the more Northern Ifles. There are ieveral who fpeak Efigliflj^ Norfe and Dutch , the laft of which is acquir'd by their Converfe with the Hollanders^ that fifh yearly in thofe Ifles. THE People are generally reputed difcreet, and charitable to Strangers ; and thofe of thebeft Rank are fafliionable in their Apparel. SCHETLJND is much more populous now, than it was thirty Years ago ; which is owing to the Trade, and particularly that of their FiOiery, fo much follow'd every Year by the Hollanders, Hamburgers, and others. The In- creafe of People at Lerwick is confiderable ; for it had but three or four Families about thirty Years ago, and is fince increas'd to about three hundred Families : and it is obfervable, that few of their Families were Natives of Schet- land, but came from i'everal Parts of Scotland, and efpecially from the Northern and Eaftern Coafts. THE Fifhery in Schetland is the Foundation both of their Trade and Wealth ; and tho it be of late become lefs than before, yet the Inha- bitants, by their Induftry and Application, make a greater Profit of it than formerly, when they had them nearer the Coaft, both of the larger and leffer Ifles ; but now the grey Fifli of the largeft Weftern JJIamIs of Scotland . ^85 largeft Size are not to be bad in any quantity without going further into the Ocean. The Fifh commonly bought by Strangers here, are Cod and Ling ; the Inhabitants themfelves make on- ly ufe of the fmaller Fifh and Herrings, which abound on the Coaft of this Ifle in vaft Shoals. THE Fifh call'd Tusk abounds on the Coaft of Brajfa ; the time for Fifliing is at the end of May, This Fifh is as big as a Ling, of a brown and yellow Colour, has a broad Tail ; it is bet- ter frefh than falted. They are commonly fold at fifteen or fixteen Shillings the hundred. THE Inhabitants obferve, that the further they go to the Northward, the FiGi are of a larger Size, and in greater Quantities. They make great ftore of Oil, particularly of the large grey Fifh, by them call'd Seths and the younger fort Silhcks : they fay that the Liver of one Seth aftbrds a Pint o\ Scots Meafure, being about four o(Eagitfl? Meafure. llie way of ma- king the Oil, is fii it by boiling the Liver in a Pot half full of Water, and when it boils, the Oil goes to the top, and is skim^d off, and put in Vellels for ufe. The Fifhers obferve of late, that the Livers of Fifh are lefs in Size than they have been formerly. THE Hamburgers ^Bremer Sy and others, come to this Country about the middle of Maj^ fet up Shops in feveral parts, and fell divers C om- B b modiries ; 38^ ^Description of the modities; as Linen,- Muflin, and fuch things as are mod proper for the Inhabitants, but more elpecially, Beer, Brandy and Bread : all which they barter lor Fifb, Stockings, Mutton, Hens, &c. And when the Inhabitants ask Mony for their Goods, they receive it immediately. IN the Month of Jufie, the Hollmders come with their Fiiljing-Buires in great Numbers up- •n the Coaft for Heniiig ; and when they come into the Sound of Brajja, ur-ere the Herring are commonly moft plentiful, and very near the Shore, they difpofe their Nets, &c. in order, but never begin till the twenty fourth of June ; for this is the time limited among themfelves, Vv'hich is obferv'd as a Law, that none will ven- ture to tranfgrefs. This Fifhing-Trade is very beneficial to the Inhabitants, who have Provi- fions and Neceffaries imported to their Doors ; and Imployment for all their People, who by their Fifliing, and felling the various Products of the Country, bring in a confiderable Sum of Mory yearly. The Proprietors of the Ground are confiderable Gainers alfo, by letting their Houfes, which ferve as Shops to the Seamen, during their Refidence here. THERE.^have been two thoufand BufTes, ?nd upwards, fifhing in this Sound in one Sum- mer ; but they are not always fo numerous ; they generally go away in Auguji or September. THERE Weftern I/JanJs of Scorland. 387 THERE are two little Towns in the largeft of the SchetUnd Ifles : the moft antient of thefe IS Scalloway, it lies on the Weft-fide oF the Ifle, which is the moft beautiful and pleafant part of it. It hath no Trade, and but few Inhabitants, the whole being about ninety in number. On the South-Eaft end of the Town ftands the Caftle of Scalloway^ wliich is four Stories high ; it hath feveral Conveniences and -feful Houfes about it, and 'tis well furnifliM with Water. Several Rooms have been curioufly painted, the the better part be now worn oft'. 1 his antient Houfe is almoft ruinous, there b^ing no care ta- ken to repair \t. It ferv'd s a Gaiiibn for the Englifh Soldiers that were ft re hidier by Cromwel.^ This Houfe was built by Patrick Stewart Earl of Orkney, Anno 1600. The Gate hath the fol- lowing Infcription on it : Patrkim Orchadi.2 & X^Undidi Comes. And underneath the Infcrip- tion ; Cu]m fundamen faxum eji, Domns ilU ma- nebit ; Labilis e contra Jt Jit arena, perit : That Houfe, whofe Foundation is on a Rock, fhall (land ; but if on the Sand, it fhall fall. THE Inhabitants fay, that this Houfe was built upon the fandy Foundation of Oppreffion, in which they fay the Earl exceeded ; and lor that and other Crimes was executed. THERE is a high Stone ereded between Tingwall and Scaflowaj : the Inhabitants have a B b 2 Tra- 588 ^Description of the Tradition, that it was fet up as a Monument of a Danijh General, who was kill'd there by the ancient Inhabitants, in a Battle againft the Dunes and Nortvegians, THE fecond and lateft-built Town is Let- wick ; it ftands on that fide of the Sound where the Fifliing is : the Ground on which it is built is a hard Rock, one fide lies toward the Sea, and the other is furrounded with a iMofs, with- out any arable Ground. O N the North is the Citadel of Lerwick, which was buiic in the Year 1665. in time of the War with HolUnd^ but never compleated ; there is little more of it now left than the Walls. The Inhabitants, about thirty Years ago, fifhed up three iron Cannons out of a Ship that had been caft away near eighty Years before ; and b;:ing all over Ruft, they made a great Fire of Peats round thsm to get off the Ruft : and the Fire having heated the Cannon, all the three went off, to the great Surprize of the Inhabi- tants; who fay, they faw the Ball fall in the middle of Br&jfa. Sound, but none of 'em had any Damage by them. THERE are many Fi6is Houfes in this Country, and feveral of them entire to this day ; the higheft exceeds not twenty or thirty Foot in height, and aie about twelve Foot broad in the middle Wejlern IJlands 0/ Scotland. 389 middle ; they taper towards both Ends, the En- try is lower than the Doors of Houfes com- monly are now, the Windows are long and ve- ry narrow, and the Stairs go up between the Walls. Thefe Houfes were built for Watch- Towers, to give notice of an approaching Ene- my ; there is not one of them but what is in view of fome other : fo that a Fire being made on the top of any one Houfe, the Signal was communi- cated to all the reft in a few moments. THE Inhabitants fay, that thefe Houfes were call'd Burghs^ which in the Saxoff Lan- guage fignifies a Town or Caftle fencM all round. The Names of fortify'd Places in the Weftern Ifies, are in feveral parts called Borg ; and the Villages in which the Forts ftand, are always nam'd Borg, THE Inhabitants of Orhey fay, that feve- ral Burying- Places among them are caWdBurghs, from the ^axon Word Burying, IT is generally acknowledg'd that the P/'^j were originally Germans^ and particularly from that Part of it bordering upon the Baltick Sea. They were calPd Phightian^ that is Fighters : The Romans ciH'd them P^/'. Some Writers call them PiBavi, either from that Name of Phightian^ which they took to themfelves, or from their Beauty ; and zcQQxdmgly Boethius, in his Charader of them, joins both thefe toge- ther; gpo A Description of the ther ; Quod erant corporibus robuflijjimis cAndi- difq^ue .-and Verjlegan fays the fame of them. THE Romans called them P/